Models > LNC6764A71 > Instructions

LNC6764A71 Admiral Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for LNC6764A71 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the LNC6764A71
46-60 of 499
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Auger would not stay attached to assembly

  • Customer: George from Warwick NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Removed laundry softener dispenser, removed bolt with socket wrench and long extension, pulled off old assembly piece, installed new assembly and replaced bolt. It took longer to order the part than to replace it!

Pump was leaking

  • Customer: Christopher from Westwego LA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
I felt extremely confident when purchasing the part because I say three diagrams which clearly showed I was ordering the correct part. 0. Drain all of the water out of the machine. 1. Remove the rear panel from the washer. 2. Use the pliers to disconnect the hoses from the pump. 3. Remove the three screwa from the old pump. 4. Support the washer with the block then take the belt off pulley. 5. Remove old pump. 6. put new pump in place then reconnect the pulley, you can remove the block.. 7. Install the three screws for the pump after you tighten it up by placing the pump over ther correct screw holes.. 8. Reconnect the two hoses using the clamps you removed. 9. Secure the rear panel and screw in place. 10. Wash clothes. EASY FIX!!!

Washer leaked entire load of water on the floor.

  • Customer: Kevin from Wilton CT
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
These gaskets and seals were relatively easy to get to. I replaced all 3. Put machine back together, but washer still leaked. I ended up having to remove more components down along the center shaft towards the transmission. I found that the "tub seal" was worn out. I also replaced the "seal nut assembly" and "O-ring" while I was at it. The seal nut and tub seal were more difficult to remove without the proper tool, but a bigger rubber mallet and strategically placed pliers were enough to break them loose. Once all parts showed up the washer went back together easily and it is now leak-free.

loud hi pitched squeeling noise all the time.

  • Customer: Patrick from Accord NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Remove front panel and back service panel below water conn. lines. Put a 4" plastic box between the tub and inside of cabinet "directly opposite the spring to be removed to lower the tub to base for less opposing travel to unlatch spring from tub hook. Also took an old slotted screw driver w/ a blade about 1/4 " and grinded 1/8 from middle about an1/8" deep and used it to latch the spring when pushing it up and off the tub. Replaced all 6. Also did motor pivot spring. Tested and the it worked for one cycle, then the tub again just falls to the right as if the spring at 9 o'clock was broke and strains the belt drive but the spin cycle still works o.k. and the washer does not bang and walk away till you stop the machine. Thought the 6 tub springs would take care of both problems. Told that the snubber ring needs to be replaced. Never but another maytag again. JUst did the belt,a week later the water pump went then the springs.....

Water overflowed from tub onto floor

  • Customer: Dan from Lombard IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
The problem was not in the switch but in the plastic hose from the tub to the switch. The hose was cracked and air/water leaked which therefore didn't activate the switch. I removed the top back cover to access the switch and released the hood of the machine, like a car, using a thin scaper to depress the spring loaded retaining clips. The hose was cracked at the tub just above the retainig clip. I bought new hosing at a local hardware store and replaced the switch to omit both of them as a future problem. Sell the tube with the switch as a package deal? Damage to tube may occur from violent, out of balance, spinning tub on spin cycle.

Water would not stop filling

  • Customer: Hing from Toms River NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
1. Unplug power cord.
2. Move washer away from the wall to get access to the back of the control panel.
3. Remove 5 screws from the back panel cover with 1/4" driver, & remove cover.
4. Pull the Water Level Switch knob out from the front control panel.
5. Use pliers to slide away the retaining clip holding the clear rubber tube to the water level switch, & separate the tube from the switch.
6. Use 1/4" driver to remove 2 screws holding the switch, & remove the switch.
7. Remove the electrical wires
8. Install new switch in reverse order.

When you are testing out the washer afterward & your spouse said still not fixed because she thought the water level is too high when the water is still running? Wait a little while longer, the water should stop. She is just not used to see it filled without a load of laundry in it.

Washer was shaking and noisy, wasn't spining fast and overall running poor.

  • Customer: joseph from columbus OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
The hardest part of this is the springs. The best way to disconnect and reconnect was to tilt the tub towards the spring I was trying to work on (thus putting less tension on the spring and cutting down the distance). I took a large boot and jammed it into the oposite side wall to hold it in a tilted position before I disconnected the spring and then redid that to reconnect using a vice grip wrench. I replaced all three things, snubber, brake roto and stator and it went back together very easily. The key on the pully shaft was hard to reattach but there was a trick to that as well. The shaft has to move up slightly to slide ring on so you need to have something under the tub to help raise it. After that was back together it was 15 mins. to finish and now the washer is running like new.

High pitched screech from brake at end of spin cycles.

  • Customer: William from Lithia FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I disconnected and moved the washer into the garage for optimum work space. Then I opened the top panel (by releasing the two retainer clips between the top and front panels with a putty knife inserted approx 2" in from each side) and taped a spacer block between the back of the tub and the back panel of the washer, to keep the tub from moving toward the back when the washer is tilted.

Then I tilted the washer back against my 2 1/2' high workmate bench (backstopped against the wall). After adjusting the tilt angle to provide adequate access to the bottom of the washer and insure it was was beyond the forward center of gravity, I began the repair.

Working from the bottom, I first removed the drive belt. Then the white dust cap, shaft retaining ring, plastic cam, pulley, and the various washers and bearings leading up to the brake assembly, making note of their order.

Then I removed three of the six 1/2" 10x24 brake stator retaining screws at alternating positions replacing each with one of the three 2" 10x24 screws I had previously purchased the hardware store. Then I removed the three remaining 1/2" screws, and slowly began to remove the three 2" screws alternating a few turns on each in rotation to evenly ease the 200 pounds of pressure from the brake rotor spring.

When the pressure was released, I removed the old brake stator and rotor and placed the new ones on the shaft, then re-compresed the brake rotor spring with the three 2" screws in alternating positions. Then placed three of the original 1/2" screws in the threee open positions, then replaced the three 2" screws with the remaining three 1/2" screws.

Then I reinstalled the remainder ot the parts in reverse order of removal.

Machine growned when washing, brake was slipping

  • Customer: Daniel from Sugar Land TX
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 13 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Tried to remove brake stator with machine tilted back. Thisforced the stator off center. Removed the 6 holddown springs, water level hose and drain hose. Pull drum & transmission out of the case. Placed the drun on the ground, brake facing up. Replaced the short screws on the brake stator with 2" screws one at a time. Caution the spring has 200 lbs of force. Used 2" screws to back off spring. With spring tenshion released replace parts. Reversed proceedurer. Machine quite. Wife is happy.

drive belt was squealing and slipping

  • Customer: Kevin from North Plains OR
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I wasted time opening up the metal container for the washing machine, which was easier than expected. The top simply pops off with a little bit of prying with a screwdriver, then the front panel is held in place with two sheet metal screws. The front panel then lifts off and you can see the exterior case for the tub drive mechanism and motor. But, it wasn't obvious what was wrong until I tilted the entire unit backwards and saw the drive belt available directly under the machine and fully accessible without any tools. It was obvious, because there was a 1/8" worth of belt fragment dust under the machine. A new belt was all it needed and after I ordered it from PartSelect, I simply jimmied the old belt off the main pulley and put the new one on. It no longer squeals or slips. Hopefully, I gained another 5 years of life out of the washing machine.

Squealing noise in spin cycle this did not fix it!

  • Customer: Ron from Oxford MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
This was easy except for the e-ring which was extremely difficult to remove. When I put the new one on I filed down the bottom of the front edges to make it easier to slide it on. Beware: If you have the washer tipped back against the wall when you do get the e-ring off everything will come sliding off the shaft all at once and go everywhere. These parts are covered with black grease and made quite a mess so you might want to have someone hold them in place so you can gently slide them off one piece at a time.

water pump was noisy

  • Customer: Patsy from Brookfield, MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the front panel, Removed the belt from pump in the back of machine. Removed the pump from the back of machine, Put the pump in reconnected the belt, Replaced all the screws. My husband did the repair work in a matter of 45 minutes. Machine works fine now. The part came when I was told it would. I am very pleased with your service.

Noise during spin cycle

  • Customer: CHERYL from HUDSON NH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Noise loudest during spin cycle. Wash cycle showed transmission was ok. Pump shaft loose in housing. Fix was just as described. Tip washer up, lift belt from pulley on pump. Remove rear panel access. Remove hoses. Un-bolt pump. New pump does not have metal base plate, it fits directly to base of washer. Bolt new pump to base in same orientation, attach hoses, tip washer up and slide belt back on to pulleys. Move belt by hand to check function. Reconnect washer to utilities and begin fill. Check for leaks at hoses. Replace rear panel cover.

The motor ovrheated,

  • Customer: Dennis from Merritt Island FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I took the front pannel off just 2 scrwe was holdig the pannel,the motor was in ftont,4 bolt was holdig the moto,and it is very easy to change,

the water would not stop filling machine.water over flowed on the floor.

  • Customer: Carolyn from Charlestown RI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
found repairs on the internet. And my husband followed the repairs and the washer works wonderful thanks.
All Instructions for the LNC6764A71
46-60 of 499