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LNC6762B71 Admiral Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for LNC6762B71 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the LNC6762B71
76-90 of 476
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WASHER SHAKES AND DANCES

  • Customer: Adrian from West New York NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
NO NEED TO BUY A BRAKE WRENCH NOR THE EXPENSIVE SPRING REMOVER.
ONCE THE DRUM IS OUT THE WASHER TURN IT UPSIDE DOWN AND LOOSE THE SCREWS HOLDING THE TRANSMISSION ABOUT A LITTLE MORE THAN HALF WAY, TO GIVE THE NEW SNUBBER ENOUGH ROOM TO FIT IN, THEM TIGH AND ASSAMBLE EVERYTHING BACK TOGETHER

Severly off balance during spin cycle

  • Customer: David from Duluth GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
My washing machine was severely off balance during the spin cycle. It would bang violently against the side and “walk” across the laundry room. I was able to fix this for under $25 dollars of parts from partselect.com and a few hours. I rated the task as easy, but I am somewhat mechanically inclined. Others may find it a bit difficult but I believe anyone except an absolute beginner can do this job.

Fix this problem before significant damage is done to your base! Otherwise the job will take more time and be a LOT more expensive. My base had experienced a little damage but thankfully it did not require replacement. When the snubber wears out, it allows the tub to rub against the base. Metal on metal is never a good thing.

Also I chose to replace the springs, even though it may not have been 100% necessary. You have to take them off anyway and they are inexpensive. It is easy to know when a spring is broken, but not as easy to know when it has lost some of its spring. Just makes sense to me to replace them.

I used the directions below which I found on the internet. They are listed below unedited by me. I have added a few of my own comments below that.

• Remove power and all hoses
• Lift top by inserting putty knife just inside front clips to release
• Remove front and rear panels, 10mm
• Disconnect drain hose from bottom of drum, pliers - spring clip
• Remove 6 springs from bottom of drum using channel lock or spring tool
• Lay on side, remove drive belt by turning large drive pulley and side tension to belt
• Remove water level hose on side of drum, pliers - spring clip
• Remove drum from cabinet by sliding out top. It is not necessary to remove drum from transmission.
• Inspect base plate for damage
• Lay drum on padded surface, upside down
• Remove C clip, drive pulley, being careful to observe order of parts and washers
• Loosen 6 screws holding down old snubber. DO NOT REMOVE SCREWS, THERE IS A VERY STRONG SPRING UNDER THIS PLATE. Loosen screws only enough to get old snubber out.
• Clean dust from area.
• Insert new snubber, keeping it even while tightening screws.
• Reverse other processes above to assemble washer. Replace any broken drum springs. Replace belt if worn.

My tips:

• After you remove the tub you will see a lot of fine white dust in the bottom of the washer. That is from your old worn out snubber. Vaccum it out.

• I didn’t have a spring tool but I found that using a pair of vice grips to remove and replace the springs was easier than using channel locks.

• Technically, I believe the clip is actually called an e-clip. If you have the correct tool for this removing and replacing it will be a lot easier. I did not have the tool. I used an open end wrench that was just the right size to butt up against the two ends of the clip. A light tap with a hammer against the other end of the wrench and it popped right off. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to put it back on.

• Also regarding putting the e-clip back on, at first I could not see the groove that the clip was supposed to slid into. It was below the little plastic piece with the teeth. I used a small flat screw driver inserted into the groove to gently pry it up and had someone gently tap on the plastic piece which pushed it down enough to expose the grove.

• I highly recommend heeding the warning regarding the loosening of the 6 screws holding the snubber. I did not have any trouble with this but there is a 200 lbs spring underneath that you do not want to release. It could injure you and might be hard to put back. Just loosen each screw 1/4 turn at a time until the snubber can be removed.

That's about it. I took me about 4 hours

both hinges on washer lid were broken

  • Customer: Harris from Ashland PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
if you move the agiatater all the way to one side you can acess the star screws from under the hinge then push the agitator to the other side and acess the screw on the other hinge , you dont have to remove the top of the washer, let me say i did not have the serial no and the people at part select were very helpful and pacient when i called and they got me the RIGHT part the firdt time.thanks again for all your help the job came out perfect and saved me a lot of money for a repair man. ASHER

Water Pump Failed

  • Customer: Douglas from State College PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Obvious problem: belt destroyed. The plastic pulley on the motor was damaged beyond repair. Since you can't replace just the plastic pulley, you have to purchase another motor. The machine still would not spin. Checked the pump again. The bearings might be bad. Replaced pump; Success! washer works again. Total repair: belt $15.68, new pulley with motor $132.00, and new pump $80.00. Estimated cost to repair about $228.00. Time to troubleshoot. 1 hour, time to fix 1 hour; Total time in labor about 2 hours.

original Factory Water Pump Bearing seized up

  • Customer: Bill from Mount Pleasant MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Vey Easy to Fix. 1)Turn Water off at the wall. 2)Remove access panel on back of washer. 3) Remove Water pump. It is bolted down to the bottom of the washer by three nut head bolts. when loose the pump can be manipulated and tilted so the belt will have slack and most likely fall right off. Have a bucket ready. Remove water hose from top of pump by sgueaing clam with pliars and sliding clamp up hose. allow to drain in bucket. Lift drain hose out from wall and allow to drain through the pump into bucket. remove hose from pump that goet to drain. Replace pump and reverse steps listed above.

Washer went off balance and the flume broke off

  • Customer: Michelle from Jupiter FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the part that was still attached to the washer and installed the new flume. It took less than five minutes and a repair that would have cost over $85 cost less than $10 and I am no plumber!

shakes, noisey

  • Customer: Dan from Lafayette CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the waterlines. Set the ends in a small pan or bucket to catch the water.Do the same with the drain line.
Keep an old towell handy as water will drain out of the drain pump when you remove the drain hose. Removed the back panel. Use a flat bladed screw driver to pop the top off the two clips in front holding the top down. Lift the top and pull the two screws which holds the front in place. Remove the front and set aside. Underneath, use gloves and the screw driver to remove the six springs by placing the screwdriver through the top hook end about an inch and with both hands lift the spring off. Carefull not to let the blade slip off and bust your knuckles on something,hence the gloves. Lean the machine over and walk the belt off the pulley. Disconnect the small tube in the back left corner from the drum and lift the unit out from the top. Set the drum on it's top and loosen the six screws under the big pulley just enough to pull the snubber out. Replace new snubber, tighten screws. Set drum back in place and reattach springs. Lean unit over and replace belt. Reconnect the small tube, back left corner. Replace the front panel and top. Connect the drain line and replace the rear panel. Connect waterlines and check for leaks. I went ahead and replaced all springs. I recommend replacing the belt while your at it. I'm wishing I would have. It runs like new, gets more water out on the spin cycle and the dryer dosn't take as long to dry the clothes.

MAKING NOISE DURING WASH CYCLE

  • Customer: MARK from HEBRON KY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
REMOVED EXCESS WATER,REMOVED HOSES,TIPED BACK WASHER,REMOVED BELT,REMOVED PULLEY AND BEARING.REMOVED 3 SCREWS AND REPLACED WITH 3 LONGER SCREWS IN THE STATOR,THEN REMOVED 3 SHORTER SCREWS.THEN LOOSEN VERY SLOWLY EACH OF LONGER SCREWS TO RELIEVE PRESSURE FROM THE BRAKE SPRING.ONCE LOOSE,PULLED OUT BRAKE ROTOR.REPLACED WITH NEW PARTS.WORKS LIKE NEW.

Grinding noise, then motor shut off.

  • Customer: Joseph from Phoenixville PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Disassembly
- Took the back bottom plate off.
- Removed hoses.
- Removed pump with pulley (3 nut screws)
- Removed belt

Installed new parts
- Installed pump with pulley (3 screws)
- Installed belt by placing on 2 small pulleys, then turning onto the large pulley (used a screwdriver to help align over pulley for leverage).
- Replaced hoses
- Replaced back plate.

Water intermittently leaking from bottom of washer

  • Customer: Debbie from Colchester CT
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I could not tell where the leak was coming from. It was intermittent. Also the clothes were not getting totally dry in the spin cycle. Finally the drum stopped turning. The bearing in the waterpump was shot and the water was leaking from the waterpump. Luckily or unluckily, the bearing completely went and I then found out that the intermittent leaking was coming from the pump. I replaced the pump and the belt that was damaged when the pump bearing locked up. This has resolved the leaking issue.

Topside door would not remain in an open position; lid hinges worn out.

  • Customer: James from Oakland MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
The lid hinges are fastened to the top of the washing machine body, near the edge of the lid, with 1 screw each.
To remove the old lid hinges, with the lid clamped in the open position, I needed to gain access to the screw heads from underneath, just inside the edge of the lid opening. To get at these screw heads, I needed to push the inside wash drum toward the screw I wanted to remove and wedge something in the gap created between the body of the washer opening and the drum, directly opposite the screw that I pushed the drum towards. What? This is to hold the drum completely out of the way while getting at the screw. My wedge was the handle of a squeege that just happenned to be nearby, but just about anything will work.
Once the drum was secure, I was able to get at the screw head, which, by the way, is a totally blind operation; you cannot see the screw head, only feel it. I guess we're kind of used to feeling our way around these days. Anyway, I had to repeat the wedging thing to remove the other lid hinge.
The only real problem I had was the original (factory installed) screw heads were hex heads, and I struggled a bit finding the correct size allen wrench to blindly remove the screws. It is a good thing that I also ordered 2 new screws along with the new lid hinges because the new screws have phillips heads. Much easier to work with, even though they were a little pricey. The old hex head screws were kind of worn and it would have been a cursing operation to try to reuse them.
Once the old hinges were off, I removed the lid, installed the new hinges on the lid and clamped the lid in place in the open position, while I screwed the new hinges on (wedging the drum out of the way like before). NOTE: It might be a good idea to line the wash drum with newspaper in case a screw slips out and finds its way into one the holes in the drum; lost forever. Anyway, this may sound like alot, but it really isn't. My wife didn't even comment on how the lid isn't smashing down on her any more. That's OK, I'm grateful I'm not the one doing laundry!

washer overflowing

  • Customer: Aaron from Lawton OK
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Once the washer was unplugged, i removed the two screws on the back pannel, disconnected the three wires, rubber water line, and two screws holding it to the control panel. Quite simply reversed the process with the replacement part i ordered, which arrived overnight, and the problem was solved.

new belt worn out by a bad motor pulley

  • Customer: ALBERT from WASCO CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
i took off the old belt and i took off the motor pulley with the pliers and srewdriver. i put the new pulley in with my hand and gave it a hit with the palm until it snap in and then i put the belt on by rotating the main pulley on tub till the belt was pulley on.

Water would not shut off after filling desired level

  • Customer: Richard from Geneva OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Took out the two top screws out that hold the top down on the back so you can lift the lid up. Removed the cover plate on the back. Take out the screw that holds the valve in place. Reach up through the access panel and undo the to clips that hold the hose and wiring. Lift the lid up and pull the unit up and remove hose and electrical connections and put back in reverse order. Very simple to do.

Noise during spin cycle

  • Customer: CHERYL from HUDSON NH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Noise loudest during spin cycle. Wash cycle showed transmission was ok. Pump shaft loose in housing. Fix was just as described. Tip washer up, lift belt from pulley on pump. Remove rear panel access. Remove hoses. Un-bolt pump. New pump does not have metal base plate, it fits directly to base of washer. Bolt new pump to base in same orientation, attach hoses, tip washer up and slide belt back on to pulleys. Move belt by hand to check function. Reconnect washer to utilities and begin fill. Check for leaks at hoses. Replace rear panel cover.
All Instructions for the LNC6762B71
76-90 of 476