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Models > LNC6762A77 > Instructions

LNC6762A77 Admiral Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for LNC6762A77 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the LNC6762A77
46-60 of 230
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Loud squeal when spin cycle finished, white powder under washer

  • Customer: Kevin from Pooler, GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Read DIY review from William, Middleton, OH on 01-15-08. Tip on how to relieve spring pressure on brake assembly worked like a dream (3ea 10-24X2 bolts/machine screws). Replaced brake and machine works like new and was an inexpensive fix. Once the shell/housing is off the machine, tub can be turned upside down and the base doesn't need to be removed. White powder under machine was a plastic wear ring that tells you when your brake rotor needs to be changed. Brake rotor still had lining but was much thinner than replacement part. Note* Use putty knife to push in clips on front to release the top lid section.

Leaky hose resulted in damaged Thrust Bearing

  • Customer: Steven from Gilbert, AZ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
After replacing the tub to pump hose, I adjusted the feet on the washer. Apparently, the main pulley sits so low on these washers that it ground into the floor and stripped out the thrust bearing. I ordered the new thrust bearing clip and put it in the evening I received it. The instructions it came with were very helpful and it was simple to reassemble. Up until the last piece - the retaining clip. The majority of the repair time was spent replacing that clip. If there is a tool that makes the job easier, I didn't have it. I finally got it on with two flathead screwdrivers prying the shaft out while I wedged one corner of the clip in the groove.

Washer went off balance and the flume broke off

  • Customer: Michelle from Jupiter, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the part that was still attached to the washer and installed the new flume. It took less than five minutes and a repair that would have cost over $85 cost less than $10 and I am no plumber!

shakes, noisey

  • Customer: Dan from Lafayette, CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the waterlines. Set the ends in a small pan or bucket to catch the water.Do the same with the drain line.
Keep an old towell handy as water will drain out of the drain pump when you remove the drain hose. Removed the back panel. Use a flat bladed screw driver to pop the top off the two clips in front holding the top down. Lift the top and pull the two screws which holds the front in place. Remove the front and set aside. Underneath, use gloves and the screw driver to remove the six springs by placing the screwdriver through the top hook end about an inch and with both hands lift the spring off. Carefull not to let the blade slip off and bust your knuckles on something,hence the gloves. Lean the machine over and walk the belt off the pulley. Disconnect the small tube in the back left corner from the drum and lift the unit out from the top. Set the drum on it's top and loosen the six screws under the big pulley just enough to pull the snubber out. Replace new snubber, tighten screws. Set drum back in place and reattach springs. Lean unit over and replace belt. Reconnect the small tube, back left corner. Replace the front panel and top. Connect the drain line and replace the rear panel. Connect waterlines and check for leaks. I went ahead and replaced all springs. I recommend replacing the belt while your at it. I'm wishing I would have. It runs like new, gets more water out on the spin cycle and the dryer dosn't take as long to dry the clothes.

washer was squeeling to a stop

  • Customer: paul from newbern, TN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
first remove drive belt then then remove dust cover on bottom of shaft take 5/16 nut driver to only 4 of the screws off that hold the brake cover on install 4 5/16 screws 1" long in those 4 spots.reomve rest of screws then slowly reomve back out 1" screws to relve spring pressure from brake pad.install all new parts from partsselect.com then install other part taken off in oreder and make your wife very happy

washer making pounding and rocking sound

  • Customer: serenade from charleston, SC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Took a screwdriver and pried up the top of washer, then reached in and unscrewed the front two screws that allowed the front to be lifted off.
Removed two screws on lower right side that allowed us to pry open right side of washer. There are six springs along the bottom of washer that keep the tub stable and keep it from bouncing against sides while in spin mode. One of the springs broke and needed to be replaced. Off course it was the one that was in the far back and the hardest to get too. But by prying open the right side it was reachable. The wife pushed against the tub to make the spring stretch a little less but still was too difficult. We took the advice of another home repair guy and put quarters in the spring (about $1.75 worth) to make it stretch out, then it was simple to connect the two ends, remove the quarters and voila....it was done. Screwed theright side back on, but the minimum order on the springs was six and the others seemed fine, we just put the other five inside the washer cabinet, replaced the front panel, reset the clamps on top of the front panel, slammed the top down and we were back in business. The parts including shipping was a little over $10.00. So I am sure we saved at least $140 repair job.

Water pump failure

  • Customer: John from Alhambra, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnect electricity....remove front panel by gently prying up lid.... Remove two small screws at corners of front panel. You may need small nutdriver here or very small hands, you can easily swivel tub out of the way....once front panel is off water pump is at the bottom right... It is only connected by two squeeze clamps and 3 nuts... This is obviously where the adjustable wrench and nutdriver come in very handy... Otherwise this job will be a bit longer....be prepared for residual water to pour out...you will need towels or a bucket....replace old with new one by reversing the process...at this point tilt the entire washer on it's backside or at least at a 45 degree angle to access the bottom... Swivel the motor away to slack up the belt...remove belt and replace in reverse order of diassembling.... Should take no more than 15 minutes.... Good luck!!!!!

It squeaks when stop spinning

  • Customer: Hing from Toms River, NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I think normally the problem is caused by the Brake Rotor Lining Assy (item #50 on the diagram). It has a brake lining facing down that makes contact with item # 51. It turned out that I had grease & grime on these parts, thus the brake is not taking grip & causing squeaky noise. All I had to do was to clean the parts & put them back. I bought the part (#50) - P/N 2347192, but it was a whirlpool part that didn't fit my Magic Chef. Some parts fit both brands, but this 1 didn't. Here is the procedure:

1. Unplug washer.
2. Move unit away from wall.
3. Tilt it back far enough to work underneath. Support the front with lumber.
4. Pull out cap (#58)
5. Remove ring clip (#57)
6. slide out everything from #53 down. Keep them in same order for re-installation.
7. There are 6 ea screws (#53) that hold item #52 to item #45. It is spring loaded by item #47. Item #53 has a 5/16" hex head. Use 3 ea. #10-24 hex head screw, at least 1.25" long to assist in compress/decompress the spring tension. You can buy them from a hardware store.
8. Take out every other screw (#53) & replace them with these 3 longer screws for remove/re-installation of item #52.
9. Take out the remaining 3 ea #52 screws.
10. Go around & back off each of the 3 longer screws to decompress the spring.
11. Remove item #52, & everything from #48 down will come out.
12. Clean or replace what you need.
13. Do the reverse to put everything back.
14. There is an item within #59 that looks like a miniature bearing. I would put some grease on that & on item #55.

Front legs came off while moving causing cycle pulley to rub on the floor.

  • Customer: Jerry from Dayton, TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
Removed damaged pulley installed new pullley and clutch. The directions made it easy. Aligned pulley as detailed and installed new front feet and tested washer. Took me about 30 minutes to repair. Washer has been working since. Thanks guys for a nice no nonsense package.

The washing machine was losing grease into the drum and on our clothes

  • Customer: Kevin from Lincoln, NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 47 of 133 people found this instruction helpful
Opened the top of the washing machine, removed the two screws and the front cover removed the agitater, drum and outer tub. replaced the bearing and seals and reassembled.

Broken agitator caused intermittent shutoff

  • Customer: Tai from Lenexa, KS
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
1. Pulled top off (liquid softener dispenser section)
2. Put 2 socket extension and a 13 mm socket together with socket wrench (tool).
3. Insert tool with 13mm socket end into old agitator and unscrew bolt.
4. Remove tool and then remove old agitator.
5. Turn old agitator upside down to remove bolt.
6. Insert new agitator where old agitator was in washer.
7. Insert bolt.
8. Insert tool with 13mm socket end into old agitator and screw in bolt.
9. Pop top back on.

Hardest part was finding extensions because one wouldn't reach.

Agitator had broken fin

  • Customer: Floyd from Davidsville, PA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Popped off bleach cap on top then got socket and long extension removed bolt, cleaned a little then replaced new agitater top.Replaced bleach cap and i was done.

The fins of the Agitator Top broke off and the screw was missing.

  • Customer: Gary from Eagle Bend, MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
I decided to replace the entire agitator. The Dispenser, Agitator, and the screw had already come off when it broke. All I had to do was pull/slide the base off the motor. Then I slid the new base in place, slid the agitator on top of the base. I then screwed in the retention screw (which was probably the hardest part due to the small access). After that I snapped on the Softener Dispenser and I was done.

White fluffy residue appeared under washer. Unbalanced banging during spin cycle

  • Customer: John from Blue Bell, PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Parts needed: Snubber Ring and 6 Springs (don't put the old springs back)
Unlug the AC cord, open the top from the front it snaps open with a little force and hinges on the back, remove the 2 screws on the front cover and take it off, tip the washer and remove the belt, take off the pump hose from the back It was not necessary to remove the back cover. Remove the little hose going to the basket from the control module. Remove the 6 springs and lift the complete drum out of the waser and turn it upside down. You can see the plastic snubber ring that is worn, loosen the 6 screws just enough to get the old ring out and the new one in. WARNING: DO NOT TAKE THE SCREWS ALL THE WAY OUT OR THE BRAKE ASSEMBLY WILL RELEASE AND A SPECIAL TOOL IS NEEDED TO PUT IT BACK. Seriously! Install the new ring, center and tighten the screws. Put the tub back in. I found it handy to support the tub with a 2x3 to get the springs back in. Connect hoses back up. It really isn’t that bad, a couple of scraped knuckles.

Original drain hose (rubber) was kinking, piece of junk. I replaced it with a new corigated drain hose .

  • Customer: Edwin from Eagar, AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 5 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Leaned washer forward, removed clamp and old hose, replaced with new hose, reinstalling clamp.
All Instructions for the LNC6762A77
46-60 of 230