Models > LNC6762A77 > Instructions

LNC6762A77 Admiral Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for LNC6762A77 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the LNC6762A77
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washing machine was making alot of noise

  • Customer: David from Boca Raton FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 468 of 473 people found this instruction helpful
I found the water pump bearings were going bad from humidity. I replaced the pump with a new one and it runs quiet again.

Washer jumping in spin cycle (white flakes under the washer)

  • Customer: David from Butler PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 140 of 148 people found this instruction helpful
Unlug the AC cord,open the top from the front it snaps open with a little force and hinges on the back, remove the 2 screws on the front cover and take it off, tip the washer and remove the belt, take off the pump hose from the back (I removed the back cover also) and the little hose going to the basket. Remove the 6 springs and lift the complete drum out of the waser and turn it upside down. You can see the plastic snubber ring that is worn, loosen the 6 screws just enough to get the old ring out and the new one in. WARNING (DO NOT TAKE THE SCREWS ALL THE WAY OUT OR THE BRAKE ASSEMBLY WILL RELEASE AND A SPECIAL TOOL IS NEEDED TO PUT IT BACK) Install the new ring, tighten the screws and put the tub back in connecting everything back up and use the 6 new springs. It really isn't that hard to do.

Load Grinding/Rubbing Noise in Rinse and Spin Cycles

  • Customer: Doug from Port Richey FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 114 of 125 people found this instruction helpful
First unplug the washer for the electrical outlet. You will need to tip the washer back to get to the bottom of the machine. There you will see the belt that drives the transmission and the water pump from the motor. Remove the belt and set it to the side. Then you will need to gain access to the top side of the machine by gently using a screwdriver to pry the front of the top up off the front panel on both sides then hinge it back out of the way. Use a nut driver to remove the two screws on the inside edge of the front panel and remove the front panel. Once the front panel is off you will see the water pump on the right hand side as you face the front of the machine. Remove the hose clamp on the water pump with the flat head screw driver or nut driver and use a pair of pliers to remove the compression clip on the water pump. Remove the 4 bolts holding the water pump in place. Reverse the entire process to put it back together. This job was very easy and I was only without a washer for 2 days because of partselect.com.

The belt and pulley on the drive motor broke

  • Customer: Michael from Warminster PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 86 of 110 people found this instruction helpful
unplug the washer. Removed the top of the washer by removing the hold scews and tabs on the upper back. Place a scew drive under the front and pry up to release the snap tabs. Then the front panel by removing the two screws on top and lift the panel up to expose the motor at bottom front. Remove the motor cover (plastic)and motor from the base, replace the pulley on the shaft (you may need to break or pry the old pulley off) install the new pulley making sure it is all the way up the shaft locking the tabs into the shat groove. Reinstallmotor to the base. To replace the belt, tilted the unit backwards to access the pulleys from the bottom and installed.
Note: it ios easier to install the belt fully on the two smaller puleys attcahed to the drive motor and pump and then wrap as much as you can around the larger drum pulley. Hold the belt in one hand and turn the drum pulley clockwise with the other and the belt will follow and install. reverse steps to reassemble.

PUMP MAKING HORRIBLE NOISE AND BRAKE STUCK

  • Customer: MICHAEL from PLYMOUTH MN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 62 of 73 people found this instruction helpful
The pump was very easy to replace (3) screws, easy to reach with front panel off. (less than 5 minut job. The brake assembly and thrust bearing was a little harder to do, but not bad at all. I found it best to flip the unit upside down to do the brake assembly. Replaced #10-24 x 1/2" screws with 2" long ones. Remember to do this (1) at a time, then back all (6) off a little at a time to release tesion on the 200lb spring. Swap out parts and tighten back down with 2" screws and then swap them back out for the 1/2" ones (1) at a time. I tipped the unit back on its side to install the bearing & pully kit. This takes some of the weight off of the main shaft allowing you to insert the spacers and split ring. The replacement parts seem to be of eqal or better quality to the originals. Machine runs quiet and smooth.

broken motor pulley

  • Customer: leighton from staten island NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 36 of 45 people found this instruction helpful
i removed the plastic cover.then i disconnected the harnest.i then removed the 2 screws and took the motor out. i took a hack saw blade and made a mark in the old pulley. i then took a screw driver and put it in the crack and tapped on it and the old pulley fell apart. i then put on the new pulley and reconnect the motor. i then reconnect the belt.my washer is working great.it was so easy and i save myself some money in the process.

The unit was leaking during agitation and spin cycle

  • Customer: Dan from Grain Valley MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 27 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
I had to remove the back lower panel with a nut driver (approximately 8 screws) as well as the front panel which is removed by poping the top of the unit removing 2 screws and swinging the panel down and lifting off.
Remove the bleach fill cap (pry off). You'll need a long extension on your ratchet to remove the bolt holding on the agitator. Next remove the inner tub which is held on by 4 bolts. The outer tub is a bit more difficult. You will need to remove all 4 shoulder screws from the top as well as the six that anchor it to the spring assembly around the bottom skirt. Since it was 7 years old I had to muscle the outer tub and rotate it to get around the inner tub transmission flange.
I'm not sure which of the 3 parts were leaking so I ordered and replaced all 3.
I don't know if it was necessary but I scraped and cleaned the aluminum flange plates where the gaskets seated.
At this point it was easy to replace the tub to housing gasket and tub/housing seal.
During reassembly I also replaced the basket to centerpost gasket.
I went with standard delivery but got the parts the next day.

Washer Made Screeching noise on spin & Rinse

  • Customer: Michael from Elgin SC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 27 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged Machine, Turned Off Water, Disconnected water and drain hoses. Let water run from hoses ino bucket.
Removed back plate where drain hose goes into back of machine. Used pliers to close the clamp holding to drain hose to remove it. I stuffed the exposed water pump opening with towels to keep water from spilling.
At this point I leaned the machine over on its front so the back of the machine was facing skyward. I placed a towel over the motor in case water spilled it would not get on the electrical components. I removed the belt on the bottom of the machine from the water pumps pully. I then removed the three screws mounting the pump to the bottom of the machine. I disconnected the other hose from the water pump that comes from the wash tank with the pliers. Once disconnected I stuffed the ends of both with towels to keep water from leaking out.
I took the new pump and connected the hose from the washer tub with pliers, mounted the pump back to the bottom of the tub with the three screws, replaced the belt, and reconnected the drain hose, and took the towel off the motor. I then replaced the back plate and set the machine upright. I connected all the hoses back up and plugged it in. It worked great. If you spill water on the motor you can dry it with a hair dryer.

washer would agitate, pump, but not spin

  • Customer: steve from lebanon OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 29 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
First I unplugged it, then removed the agitator and tub assemblies, then I tipped it back and removed the belt and pully and thrust bearings. After reading on here I learned the brake would stick and after installing the thrust bearing kit I found out I couldnt fit in the shims. That led me to believe the brake was siezed inplace so i couldn't fit in the parts. I removed the thrust bearing kit and removed the transmission assembley. I took apart the brake and found the two pieces had siezed together, after I got them apart I sanded both peices and lubed the shaft with high temp silicone like you would use on a cars brake system. I put the brake back together, BE VERY CAREFUL THE SPRING HAS ALOT OF PRESSURE! I then put the transmission back in, reinstalled the thrust bearing kit and it fit great. I put in the tub and agitator and washed clothes.

make loud rubbing noise like a finger on wet glass

  • Customer: michael from mountain home ID
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 23 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
It auger would barely spin and the machine would squeal to a stop after the spin cycle. After reading some other posts on here, I decided that it is most likely the brake so I bought the brake repair kit.
Because the machine was old, I took the time to clean it while I was repairing the brake; thus the extra time, but it was well worth it.

1) go to hard ware store and buy 6 2" #10-24 screws; they will be required to remove and install the brake spring

2) you have to gut the machine (which is very easy) - working from the top
* unplug, drain water, and move it to an open space where you can easily work on the floor around it, and where you have a wall to support the top panel of the machine
* tilt washer on the side and remove the drive belt and pulley from the main shaft in the center
* lower washer and then remove the front panel and raise the top panel to rest against the wall/backstop
* remove the auger
* remove the white top from the tub
* remove any hoses connected to the plastic tub
* now you can push the tub to each side so that you can remove the springs - it is easier if you have someone push the tub down from the top while you remove the springs with pliers.
* remove the tub

3) remove the brake - working from the top with the tub turned upside down
* remove every other screw from the break and replace with the 2" screws
* remove the remaining original screws and replace with the 2" screws
* now, release the screws so that the brake spring is release with equal pressure on each screw
* remove the brake guts and replace with new

4) now would be a good time to clean out any mold and mildew

5) re-assembly is opposite of removal*
* the springs are more difficult to attach, and I would recommend starting with the spring in the back, by the drain and working towards the front of the washer

My machine is now quieter than when we first bought it! The brake was the problem!

03-2011

Washer shakes violently during spin cycle

  • Customer: Hank from Alpharetta GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 22 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
I used the instructions from others and modified them with tips and details based on my own experience:
1. Unplug the power, turn off the hot/cold water valves and disconnect the hot/cold water hoses and drain hose. Tip: plug the drain hose with some paper towels to keep the stale water from dripping on your floors.
2. Move the washer to an open area like a garage, and position it near a wall (or have a helper on hand who can help you prop up the washer top later). Tip: to simplify things, you’ll want to avoid removing the top completely. Removing the top completely involves removing the inlet water hose and all wires leading to the control panel and the door switch.
3. Lay the washer on its side and remove the drive belt from the bottom of the washer.
4. Place the washer upright again and remove the lower rear panel held by eight ¼” hex screws.
5. With the rear panel off, you will see a black drain hose that connects the tub to the pump. Remove the hose at the pump with a pair of pliers. The hose is just held on with a spring clamp.
6. Remove the front panel: pry the top off at 2 front hinge points with a flat head screwdriver. With the top up, remove two 5/16” hex screws holding the front panel and remove the front panel.
7. Remove suspension springs: To easily remove the suspension springs, you will need about 12 quarters (or nickels) for each spring. I hope I can describe this part clearly. For the removal of each spring, tilt the top of the tub away from you as far as you can in order to stretch out the spring. Now insert coins between the gaps in the spring coil, alternating the coins on each side of the coil to keep the spring coil straight. Then tilt the top of the tub back toward you to release the tension on the spring and you should now be able to easily unhook the spring from the tub. The coins keep the coil stretched out for re-installation later. Repeat for the other 5 coils. Note: Others have mentioned using a metal electrical box for this, but I can’t visualize it.
8. Now raise the washer top and prop it against the wall (or have a helper hold it vertical). Follow the small clear “water level” hose that runs from the control panel to the rear of the tub and disconnect it from the tub. It is just held by a small spring clamp.
9. Remove the tub assembly. Remember the position of the tub before you take it out. Place a couple of 4”x4”s (or equivalent) on the ground to support the edges of the washer tub when you turn it upside down. With the springs removed, the drive belt off, and the water level hose and drain hose detached, you should be able to simply lift the tub assembly out. Lay the tub upside down on the 4x4s.
10. Remove the snubber ring: There is no need to remove the flywheel if you have a small or fairly shallow socket (or an angled open end wrench). My small socket worked fine. As others have mentioned, remove the snubber ring by backing out the six 5/16” hex bolts that hold the snubber ring in place. Do not remove the bolts completely. The metal retaining plate is supposed to be under spring tension, but mine did not rise when I loosened the bolts, so I had to pry it up slightly with a flat screwdriver to form enough of a gap to insert the new snubber ring. Make sure the new snubber ring is seated evenly and re-tighten the 6 bolts.
11. Reinstall: Place tub back into the cabinet, reconnect the thin water level hose, reconnect the drain hose at the pump.
12. Spring re-installation: As you hook each spring to the tub, make sure the bottom of the spring is hooked properly to the bottom of the cabinet. Then tilt the top of the tub away from you to stretch the spring out in order to remove the coins. Then tilt it back toward you to remove the tension. Repeat for the other 5 springs.
13. Re-install the front panel and the rear panel and place the washer top back in place.
14. Lay the washer on its side to reinstall the drive belt.
15. Hook up your hot/cold water, drain hose, tur

Unit stopped washing during cycle

  • Customer: Steve from Jacksonville FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 21 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the 2 screws on the front panel after unplugging the unit. Removed the 2 screws on the safety cover and removed the wiring coupling. Removed the 2 bolts that was holding down the belt adjuster. Fed adjuster around pully wheel after removing belt. Installed new motor and re-assembled in reverse of disassembly. Plugged in unit and tested motor. Unit still operating satisfactory. Wash about 5 loads everyday. Large family

replaced snubber ring and springs to stop unbalanced spinning

  • Customer: Kim from qPeachland NC
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 20 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Move washer to area with plenty of room. I took mine out to the deck. take off front of cabinet remove back panel, remove old springs, (a bit hard) remove belt, lift out tub turn over and loosen screws do not remove!! remove old snubber and replace with new, Not bad. Put tub back in washer put on new springs(didn't think I'd ever get them on, not enough upperbody strength)Video would have been priceless!
reattach belt and panels put washer back in place. No noise upon spinning but I now have issues with the agitator, Need a new washer!

Puddling on the floor. Water was leaking through the impeller bushing on the water pump

  • Customer: Richard from Boyertown PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 21 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
..First I sought the source of the water leak, by removing the louvered panel on the rear (4 nut headed screws hold it in place) and observed for water leaks during a wash cycle. This required that I re-position the washer and route the fill and drain hoses in order to stand behind the washer during its cycle to observe through the rear panel opening.

...There was no visible leakage of any of the hoses or connections but I could see the water puddle on the floor was coming from under the water pump located in the front corner.

...I wasn't able to peel the sides off the washer. I disconnected the rear hoses for hot and cold water and the drain hose. I removed the plate on the rear that orients the drain hose.

...I tilted the washer 90 degrees to its front using 2 x 4's to cushion the front so the machine would not be scratched.

....I removed the drive belt underneath. It was easy to remove by hand and did not require loosening screws on any of the pulleys.

...I disconnected the black exhaust hose from the tub with a screw driver and the white drain outlet hose with water pump pliers.

...I then reached into the front corner of the machine through the opening in the back and removed the water pump which is held in place by 3 nut head screws. I used a ratchet set to do this.

...I observed the water pump which is almost all molded plastic. The bushing area in the center attached to the impeller appeared to be wet and rusted. I assumed this to be the source of the water leak. I found the replacement on line at PartSelect site and ordered it. It was much cheaper at PartSelect then other sites.

....When the replacement pump arrived 2 days later , I compared it to the pump I removed. It matched physically including the pulley so then I installed it and re-assembled the washing machine in the reverse order from disassembly.

...I left the louvered panel off and observed the water flow for leaks during the first wash after re-assembly.

...There were no internal leaks and no puddling on the floor, so I replaced the louvered panel and put the washing machine back in place.

The water pump was a bit noisy during the 1st load
but otherwise the machine ran well. After the 1st load the pump is quiet and the machine runs just as it did before the puddling occurred. It is fine.

After having done this I can say, it was uncomfortable and cramped to reach in through the rear panel opening to remove and replace the water pump. But I could not find a way to lift the top of the machine easily so I could removed the side panels to have better access to the water pump and hoses. If anyone knows a way to do that without unplugging and removing the electronics panel, that would be useful information. Please post it.

It can be done the way I described here because I did it, but that may not be the easiest way if the side panels can be easily removed it would probably be an easier repair.

Load was to wet after last spin cycle.

  • Customer: Earl from Crest Hill IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 24 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off water suply. Removed drain (pipe is short). Then slid washer out so I could tilt it back and work under the washer. I put a wood brace under the front of the washer for safety. I then followed the instructions that came with the parts.
All Instructions for the LNC6762A77
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