LGV5644AW0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Un plug dryer . Take off dryer door . Remove front panel by pulling out. Remove 2 screws holding coil bracket . Remove electrical connectors ,remove 2 coils . Install 2 new coils same as old ones connect elect. Wires replace coil holding bkt. Unplug flame sensor . Remove 1 screw . Replace old flame sensor with new plugin elect. Connector replace in reverse wala ,,,alldone button up dryer plug in dryer . . Good to go.

We noticed the drum wasn't spinning, but the heat was turning on. About 3 years ago the heat was broken and it turned out that there was a little thermal fuse in there that needed swapped out, that was easy too fix too. Anyway, I looked up on youtube how to change out dryer belts on maytag units and it looked pretty straight forward. The model they showed was easier to access than my model, but I was able to still figure it out. Just pop off the top panel (they used a putty knife at the two clip points on the front, but I just yanked it up with a little force and it popped right up). Then unscrew the two little screws holding the front panel on, then pull off the front panel completely. This exposes the drum. The example on youtube showed easy front access to the belt assembly, but in my model, there was a stand for the drum as well as the drum motor in the way. So I just pulled the whole drum out the front most of the way, then I went behind the drum where I had exposed the pully/motor shaft assembly and then fed in the new belt into belt tension assembly that connects to the motor. While keeping it taught so the ribs of the belt would stay on the motor head (I had my wife hold it taught) I pushed the drum back toward the hanging belt and then worked the edges of the belt around the drum until it once again was completely around the drum. Then I slowly pushed the drum all the way back into place while continually working the belt back into place as I went. I then manually rolled the drum around a few times to ensure it was rolling correctly and that the belt was indeed in the right place. After a few good spins without it changing position, I reassembled the unit. It was very painless and took about 15-20 minutes in all. Works just fine again.

I replaced belt by myself. Took dryer apart,laid dryer on its back, put belt and pulley on. Rotated drum to make sure seal was in place. Cleaned out machine while I had it apart.

Followed the instructions and really quite easy to fix. I didn't know why dryer wouldn't turn on but went with the odds that the thermal fuse was the problem-- and it was. Once I got the part it was back together and running in less than 30 minutes!

I am a licensed electrician I found the bad part and I ordered it and when it came in I replaced it.

Unpluged the dryer. Removed the vent hose with a reg. screwdriver. used a 1/4" nut driver removed the back of the dryer. Located the The Thermal fuse and replaced it. Found the Cycling Thermostat removed the 1/4" screw and changed the wires one at a time to get them in the right spot. Reinstalled the Cycling Thermostat. Pluged the dryer in and turned it on. It fired up in about 10 seconds. Turned it off and unpluged it. Reinstalled the back and Hose and away we went.

I started by taking the front of my dryer off and cleaned it out. Next i ran the dryer and watched the flame starter circut. The starter circut would work once and then not for a long time but i could see it was tring to light because the iginiter would glow white hot. I then searched online for my model number and found the part select web site. In a few minutes I found a dryer fault description that best fit what my dryer was doing. The part select site should me three parts it might be. I read about what the three parts did on the parts select site. Then by using the process of elimination, with the knowledge I had just learned, I narrowed my suspect parts down to one. The coil for the gas valve must be the problem. So I got my ohm meter and measured the coil resistance and I found that when the coil was room temp it had resistance. But it would get hot after one heat cycle and it would open up therefore causing the gas valve not to open......no heat! I ordered the part and it came in two days!!!! All fixed!

This is a long, sad story, but I'll cut to the chase. I was told by few appliance repair guys that my problem was most likely due to the motor being bad. I had checked the thermal fuse, the door switch, and the power switch, and all were good so that made sense. I then saw a video which made it seem fairly straight forward to remove the old motor and replace it. So I ordered the motor from Part Select. Turns out it's impossible to remove the motor without also removing (and replacing) the blower. The video never mentions that. Also FYI, I found out that my dryer switch WAS broken, and nothing was wrong with the motor, so I spent $250 on a repair that should have cost %40. Oh well ...

It snapped right in. Works perfect.

I watched the You Tube video on this site. The only issue is there is a plastic fitting that I seriously damaged trying to remove the motor from the blower. You have to hold the plastic fiting stationary while turning the nut on the other end of the motor. If you try to rotate the plastic fitting you'll destroy it as I did. I got it loose by squeezing the plastic fitting with a large pair of channel lock pliers and then rotating the nut.

I was able to take apart the dryer myself and get old belt out, then my son helped me remove the drum and put new belt on. Well worth fixing; it works great again and the part with shipping and handling was only $17.00! better then price of new dryer!!!Thanks, Mary ( Cincinnati)

Initial diagnoses suspected a faulty igniter. After deterininig that there was not power to the igniter I unplugged the dryer and systematically tested the continuity of each of the temperature limit swithches which all checked OK. The last item in the circuit is the thermal fuse which proved to be faulty. To confirm that this was the only problem I monentarily by passed the fuse to verify that the burner came on. To do all this I had to remove the fron panel and take out the drum. Actually the thermal fuse is located behind th back cover and is very easy to replace and probably should have been my fist go to suspect. Note the likely cause of the thermal fuse failure is a plugged up lint filter or exhaust duct which should be checked before installing a new fuse.

looked at schematic diagram, compared to unit finally used a multimeter to check fuse.. replaced fuse, assembled dryer and turned on to check operation. OK.

Repairing my dryer was one of the easiest things I have ever done and saved me quite a lot of money. The hardest part was getting the bolts out, mainly because I used pliers instead of the tool needed for the bolts in hard to reach places. I watched a video online on how to replace the parts, ordered the parts needed for my model, and repaired it myself in minutes. I replaced the heating element, both thermostats and the Thermal Fuse. I have very little time and money invested and my dryer works perfectly.

So glad we tried the belt and rollers before going out and buying a new one. Very quiet now,so happy!