LGA30AW (PLGA30AW) Amana Dryer - Instructions

I had an issue where I was not getting any power to my ignitor. After replacing the ignitor with a fresh one, the problem persisted. Next, I went hunting all the fuses and therrmostats for continuity. All seemed fine. So finally I decided to jump the flame sensor which is located on the outside of the flame tube. WHALLA! It ignited the glow plug. So with one 1/4"" nut driver I removed the single bolt from the unit, then I used a pliers to remove the two wires from the old unit. I replaced the sensor with Tue new unit and all was well. It took less than 5 min once I diagnosed the problem.

Dryer would only tumble for ~15 min then stop. During this time it would be really loud. Turns out to be a bad Motor. To replace 1) Removed bottom kick panel by removing 2 screws. 2) Then removed upper front cover by 2 additional screws. 3) Disconnected thermostat (marking location of wires on paper). 4) Removed blower housing (3 screws)undid the rib belt from the drum by pushing the pulley wheel up so the belt could be loosened and removed from motor. 5)Removed the front cover of the dryer opening by removing 2 screws. 6) Lifted up and then puled it out to expose the drum. 7) Removed the drum w/belt from the dryer exposing the motor. 8) Removed 2 screws from the motor and disconnected the plug from it. Slid it all the way out. 9) Need to remove (3 screws) the metal faceplate from motor to access the blower wheel (plastic). 10) Unscrewed the plastic wheel and removed 2 screws to remove the motor from the frame. reversed the process for reassembly. Sounds tougher than it really was - only took 30-45 min. Suggestion - write down on paper location of any wires you disconnect - makes reassembly very easy. Also recommend vacuuming any lint in the dryer while it is completely accessible.

remove bottom section under door 2 screws remove door 2 screws remove switch by squeezing tabs install 2 new female ends on wires supplied with switch . put switch back in plug in wires .

After removing the front of the dryer, I took out the front assembly where the seal and glide brackets attatch. I replaced the bad cylinder glide by drilling the old rivets out and re-riveting the new glide in place from the back side. I then replaced the felt pads and glides on the glide brackets and glued a new cylinder seal around the front assembly. I reccomend having 4 hands for placing the cylinder seal around the assembly with fresh glue.

First, leaned dryer back and removed 2 screws at bottom front panel.
Then removed 2 screws at bottom of door assembly.
Pulled bottom door assembly forward and down.
Disconnected "can't go wrong" wiring connectors.
Then removed old cylinder glide rivets at bottom of cylinder using drill motor with 1/4" drill.
I installed new felt pads on new cylinder glides. Then installed glides with rivet gun.
Reconnected wire harness.
Installed door assembly and lower panel assembly.
BACK IN BUSINESS! THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!

Remove the 2 screws at bottom of front panel, remove lower panel. Then remove the two screws at bottom of front door. Lift door forward so spring hooks can disengage from the top panel. remove door, disconnect the 5 wires to the door latch and light. remove the two screws at top of dryer to lift up top panel. Remove 4 screws at the front holding the drum. Disengage the belt from the tension pulley and remove drum. Replaced both roller wheels at the rear of the drum( one was broke). Then remove the screws (about 6 holding the plate in front of the blower wheel. Use a wrench to hold the nut at the back of the motor and a scocket wrench to remove blower wheel. (The Blower wheel was broken from the shaft and was spinning freely). Then do it all backwards to re assemble. i spent more time cleaning the lint from the inside than I took making the repair!

Shut off or unplugged dryer for safety.

Slipped thin blade putty knife up under bezel of switch to unlatch from the panel and pulled forward to remove the swwitch from the dryer. Unplugged the quick connect terminals (3) from the old switch and plugged them onto the new switch. one of the terminals had gotten quite hot and darkened the insulation so it was replaced with one that was supplied with the switch. that was a cut, strip, crimp process. Placed the new switch into the panel and snapped into place.

Not too difficult. Take out of box, insert into dryer slot.
Done

Replaced the recommended drum rollers, belt and tensioner, light bulb. Found repair manual online (bit of a hunt)made job easier still took 2.5 hrs. Then turned drum by hand no squeak. Turned it on and still squeaked. Isolated to motor. Replaced it (had to take dryer completely apart again but went quicker due to experience also had to disassemble the motor assy and rebuild. Took 1.5 hrs works like new now. The design of the dryer is not bad remove bottom front panel first, screws at very bottom of panel then two more screws are uncovered to remove front. It just lifts up and pulls out. then remove four bolts which hold front frame on (supports drum) all this has to be done to reach the replacement parts. drum wheels are held on by snap rings not the screws (real fun if you take them out) reverse to reassemble.

1-Unplugged drier
2-removed lower panel-(2)-8mm screws
3-removed intake from fan-(3)-8mm screws
4-removed dryer's front panel-w/door assembly-(2)-8mm screws. (note there is a door switch you will need to disconnect the wires and remember which terminals they go to.
5-remove the front drum support-(4)-8mm screws
***** at this point the drum is exposed *****
6-reached under the drum pulled the tensioner to relieve tension on belt, then dismounted the belt from only the tensioner and motor shaft; leave the belt on the drum!
7-pull drum toward you and forward about 3-to-4 inches, this exposes the drum rollers.
8-use a screwdriver and pry-off the retaining clip on the end of the roller's shaft and remove the roller.
9-remove the roller support-(2)-8mm screws
10- reinstall new roller support
11- apply a light coat of disc-brake hi-temp wheel bearing grease to the roller support shaft, very light!
12-install a new wavy thrust washer, new roller(note they will say "front" on the side that should face you. Don't mount it backwards!
13-install the outer thrust washer and the new retaining clip; use a flashlight for this part!
14-repeat for the other drum roller.
**** while you have it apart use a vacuum to remove lint from every where you see it; it is a fire hazard!
**** if you think you need a drive belt now is the best time to change it *****
15- re-assemble the dryer in the reverse order, don't forget to re-install the drive belt and be careful not to pinch the door switch wires.
16-re-plug the drier and test

First I went to Maytag.com thinking it was best to go to the manufacturer for parts. Their search engine did not even recognize my part number. I tried every way I could think of. Then I just entered the model number in google and it sent me to the Partselect.com website. Diagrams came up and I chose parts from the pictures. The parts arrived in about 3 or 4 days and fit perfectly.

Sensor is in the front lower left. Gas off, electicity off. Removed two screws for the filter, pry/lifted the top up and taped it too the overhead cabinet, removed two screws inside top of front panel, lifted pandel with door closed staight off. Two screws to remove the flame sensor braket. unplug the old sensor install the new one and reverse everything. With others suggestions I purchased temperature switches etc. but the radiant flame sensor was the problem. I now have some spare switches for future. Excellent company and very quick service. Oh, Sears wanted 200.00 just for the service call, I live rural.

Ohmed coils and both had continuity so I changed radiant heat sensor. No bench test for Radiant Heat sensor. Same problem. Changed both coils and dryer works fine. Weak coils were my problem. I read thru the same issues in Parts Select forum and it said Radiant Heat sensor was problem 25% of the time. With coils having continuity and no ohm value specified for coils I made wrong choice but, I have spare parts and look for another 10 years of life in the dryer. Nice to have this forum to research appliance repair. Very helpful for parts location and installation. Dishwasher is next!

loosened two screws on back of top,lifted top away from front panel.it just lifts off front corners,removed two screws at top corners.lift front panel up and out,this panel supports dryer tub,remove slowly,unplug door switch parts are located left side bottom two screws holding in had to have wife hold drum up to put front panel on

I believe the best procedure would be to start at the very bottom of the machine - there are two sheet metal screws in the bottom panel. Remove the bottom panel.

Now, there are two sheet metal screws at the bottom of the front door panel that need to be removed. Remove front panel by pulling down to dislodge from plastic pins aligning it to the top panel.

Now the air duct assembly is accessible. From outside machine remove two sheet metal screws holding lower air duct frame. From inside the dryer opening, remove three screws holding the upper frame. Remove old air duct assembly and vaccuum machine.

New air duct assembly is in one piece, so only three inside screws are needed to support it. Make certain the screws are seated well or clothes could get hung up on the screw heads. Reinstall front door panel and bottom panel.

Doing it this way should make the job around 20 to 30 minutes.