LFX21960ST LG Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove 2 screws and then disconnect wires to the bulb sockets. Reconnect the wires Reinstalled lamp case , tab end first then replaced the 2 screws and the Lens cover. In addition, I changed out the incandescent bulbs to a much cooler LED bulb.

0) Look on the internet for a DIY/or pro-shop Video
1) Pull the refrigerator away from the wall, unplug the power cable
2) Shut off the water at the wall valve
3) Disconnect the water line at the inlet valve on the refrigerator (lower corner, right side), this is a threaded pipe fitting requiring a small open end wrench
4) Remove the lower rear panel
5) Remove the water inlet and distribution valve assembly, there is one sheet-metal screw holding the assembly to the back edge of the refrigerator.
6) Carefully pull the assembly out of the back of the refrigerator, leave the distribution water lines attached, note the orientation
7) Disconnect the electrical connectors, note the orientation/types
8) Disconnect the water line from the inlet valve, remove the retaining clip, then pull out the line. Note - a small metal star shaped tube fitting may come out with the valve, this is fine and will not be used again.
9) Remove the inlet valve from the assembly (there are two small sheet-metal screws that are very tight, the correct/precise size, good quality Philips head screw driver is necessary or use a small set of vice-grips to grab the head of the screw)
10) Attach the new valve to the valve assembly, connect the electrical connectors, note - at the plastic refrigerator water line that connects to the inlet valve, trim/cut a small section off the end of the water line before connecting it to the valve. This will provide a fresh interface for the connection. Push the line in firmly and then install the retaining clip.
11) Perform a quick functional check before putting everything back together - Attach the water line from the wall, turn on the water, attach the electrical connectors, plug in the refrigerator power cable and test for operation and leaks.
12) Assuming no leaks/operational issues, unplug the refrigerator power cable again, turn off the water at the wall, disconnect the water line at the inlet valve and reinstall the valve assembly and rear panel. Reconnect the water line and plug in the power cable and you should be good to go.!

The old switch was a little hard to get out....took me a couple tries. I couldn’t move the frig out to unplug it, so just shut the power off in the kitchen. But, I was happy that’s what the problem was and so happy to have the light back on......it was probably three years it didn’t work!

pried out old switch, disconnected wires ,placed wires on new switch

I replaced solenoid, flapper heated door, and broken spring. Very easy instructions on "YouTube"

After watching a few iTunes videos I was able to order the light switch from part select and within a week I had the new switch. I had a little trouble getting the switch out. I used a flat screw driver and taped around the edge to keep from damaging the wall inside. I found the clip on the right side and had to use some force to get it popped out, you may need to use pliers to disconnect the switch.

Part arrived with a broken window . I was able to use the old window from the broken part . I installed the new part in under three minutes .

Pulled fridge away from wall, unplug electrical connection, open fridge door, use knife to prize out door switch, pull off and replace switch from electrical wiring.

1. Removed old bin from ice maker(pulled it out manually).
2. Inserted replacement bin.
Total time is less than 30 seconds.

Trouble shot the board and determined that the voltage required as per the charts was not present. This indicated that the PCB board was at fault. Powering off the unit I proceeded to unplug the five connections and removed the old board. After installing the replacement board I reconnected the plugs and powered the unit on and tested the operation. The light functioned as desired.

The heavy work is moving the fridge, then take off the lower plans. Use a bowel or cup for screws and the water line connector spacers so you don't loos them.
undo connections holding water line, including the bottom brakes for the solenoid. Reuse the spring around the lower waterline to prevent external wear on the line.

NOTE: remove the waterline connector spacers and save!
NOTE: you must compress (not pull) the connect to then pull the waterline out of the connectors.
NOTE: You must also remove the water filter and housing inside the fridge but this is easy.
MOTE: Test the line for leaks by turning on the water and then using the door water. The filter will need to refill so it may take a minute before water comes up. This line only have pressure when the door water is used or the ice maker needs to make ice.


After replacing the line, test the line for leaks by using the door water so the solenoid fills the lines

Removed old rails and tapped new rails in place. The big problem was finding how to fix the drawer. After searching many online websites, It was my good fortune to find Partselect and a one of their service representatives who
knew how to fix my drawer
and they had the part.

Pops right In

Switched the refrigerator circuit breaker to off. Put tape around the switch to prevent scratches. Wedged the putty knife into the right side of the switch and pried up.the switch and connector popped out. Removed the connector from the old switch and connected it to the socket in the new switch. Stuffed the new switch and connector back into its home. Switched on the circuit breaker. Now we have light in the refrigerator with every opening!

Unplugged the refrigerator, Taped around the edges of switch as I had read to prevent possible scratches, used very thin flathead screwdriver to pry out old switch, unplugged old switch, plugged in new switch, put it back in opening, plugged fridge back in, and I had beautiful light! Hardest part was unplugging the refrigerator!