LFC25760TT LG Refrigerator - Instructions

pried out old switch, disconnected wires ,placed wires on new switch

After watching a few iTunes videos I was able to order the light switch from part select and within a week I had the new switch. I had a little trouble getting the switch out. I used a flat screw driver and taped around the edge to keep from damaging the wall inside. I found the clip on the right side and had to use some force to get it popped out, you may need to use pliers to disconnect the switch.

This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water dispenser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.

Part arrived with a broken window . I was able to use the old window from the broken part . I installed the new part in under three minutes .

Pulled fridge away from wall, unplug electrical connection, open fridge door, use knife to prize out door switch, pull off and replace switch from electrical wiring.

Ordered part from part select. Received part with out instructions. It took only one screwdriver for 1 screw removal and then removing cover to replace switch. Pretty simple

viewed video and followed instructions was a piece of cake

Like the customer who put a review on your site before me, I was unable to complete the repair because the inlet tube did not fit my refrigerator. I was hoping to speak to someone regarding this issue.

Part Select had a great video which made the repair easy, using a putty knife to start removing the freeze door gasket. Once removed the install is simple just snap the new gasket into the track, but start at the corner. Other company's have a video requiring you to remove the entire freezer compartment out of the appliance, unnecessary waste of time and labor.

Pops right In

Unplugged the refrigerator, Taped around the edges of switch as I had read to prevent possible scratches, used very thin flathead screwdriver to pry out old switch, unplugged old switch, plugged in new switch, put it back in opening, plugged fridge back in, and I had beautiful light! Hardest part was unplugging the refrigerator!

I actually watched a YouTube video for LG refrigerators. The hardest part was taking the wire harness out. Mine was really stuck in there. But got it, put the new switch in and viola it worked. Yay!

Switched the refrigerator circuit breaker to off. Put tape around the switch to prevent scratches. Wedged the putty knife into the right side of the switch and pried up.the switch and connector popped out. Removed the connector from the old switch and connected it to the socket in the new switch. Stuffed the new switch and connector back into its home. Switched on the circuit breaker. Now we have light in the refrigerator with every opening!

Removed screws and the plastic shelf tops from the broken shelf. These parts are sold separately. Do NOT throw anything away until you know you have what you need.
Gentle pull the shelf to spread it enough to get the plastic pieces in. This is the only hard part. Screw the slides onto the new frame. Snap the covers into the crisper fronts. You’ll want to force them in but don’t. They will snap and break.

Food off top of shelf, drawers come out, glass tops come off, lift the whole unit up (can be a little heavy. Tilt sideways to angle past doors (remove door's lower bins as needed by removing food and lifting up). Turn upside down, remove 3 screws from metal rod and remove metal rod (may require prying out with screwdriver). Remove textured plastic top pieces from each side; some flexing is required to get one side up, then the other. Remove two hinged drawer covers by pinching in at their hinge points.

This is your last chance to clear all the walls, floor, and ledges at the bottom of your fridge. Just sayin'.

Put new shelf upside down on counter. Transfer metal rod to new shelf, screw it in. Transfer hinged drawer covers. Transfer textured plastic topic pieces, again putting one side (of each) in first and flexing unit a little to get other side in. Turn right side up and angle back into refrigerator.

Bring shelf flat and push to the back of the refrigerator until it is flush with the back. Lower whole unit until it rests on top of the side rails where drawers slide in. Left side has a tongue that will fit into a 2" or so notch near the front, right side will rest on top of a round bumper. Front coldness control should still operate smoothly. Put drawers in to make sure they glide and close smoothly. Put glass shelf on top and press down lightly to make sure lower shelf is stable and glass fits neatly into its plastic frame. Replace any door bins you removed.

Ta da!