This handle screw, also known as a mounting bolt, is a mounting screw to help secure the door handle to your refrigerator door. If your handle is loose, you may just need to tighten the screw. If your...
The door stop, or door stopper, is used in refrigerators. This door stop helps keep the door in position and in balance. This part is attached to the bottom of the door and it keeps it from opening an...
The purpose of the door latch cam is to keep the door latched when you shut it. If your door is not staying shut, you may need to replace the door latch cam. This part is made of white plastic and is ...
This ice maker assembly is a genuine OEM replacement unit for LG refrigerators. It is responsible for producing and dispensing ice cubes. You can find the ice maker assembly inside the freezer compart...
This genuine OEM water valve controls the flow of water to the ice maker and water dispenser of your refrigerator. It opens to allow water into the designated compartments and closes once the desired ...
$59.02
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This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water disp
... Read moreenser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.
Like the customer who put a review on your site before me, I was unable to complete the repair because the inlet tube did not fit my refrigerator. I was hoping to speak to someone regarding this issue.