Models > LER6620PQ0 > Instructions

LER6620PQ0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for LER6620PQ0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the LER6620PQ0
61-75 of 1847
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Dryer would quit before the end of the cycle

  • Customer: Ernest from Beaumont TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 12 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
My wife reported that the dryer was not working. I checked it and it seemed to work fine. This went on for about a month or two. Every time I checked it, it started just fine.

Well, she threatened to go buy a new dryer, I took her more seriously. I thought perhaps a thermal protection was the cause. But when I dug into it, I learned that when those trip out, they are permanent (have to be replaced).

I finally noticed loud humming sound the motor made at start-up, when it failed to start turning on one occasion and eventually tripped out the motors thermal protection.

I ordered the new drive motor form PartSelect.com.

Replacing the motor was fairly easy if you like to take stuff apart. One thing that I had not anticipated was that the two foam gaskets on the exhaust duct were dry rotted. I went to my local part supplier to get them. They did not have them in stock. :( While I was there, I asked how much the motor was, they wanted $50 more than PartSelect.com :D

I put it back together without the new gaskets, and it runs like new. I ordered the gaskets from PartSelect and will add them when they arrive.

My wife is happy again, she can bust out the laundry in one day; it had been taking here all weekend.

I learned to take her at her word.

One of the power cord connections on the terminal block was loose. Screw on terminal block was cross threaded when installed. Took six years to smoke the wire.

  • Customer: DAVID from LEESBURG FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 18 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
Removed and replaced terminal block, power cord and black wire to timer.

Top door catch assembly had broken

  • Customer: tony from prineville OR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
It was so easy, that my wife did it the day we got the part before I got home from work. She wedged it out with a flat head screw driver and then pushed the new door catch assembly in with her thumb. Pretty simple, thanks for having parts like this available to the public!

the drum was not turning because a broken belt

  • Customer: thomas from bloomfield NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
I lifted the top of the dryer cabinet, like the hood of a car using a screwdriver to pry it open. I removed the two screws in the upper right corner of the cabinet front. I disconnected the safty switch on the front door. The front of the cabinet can then be removed by lifting up the front off the pins in the base. With the drum exposed you can place the belt on and thread it through the two pulleys on the motor. Consult the diagrams provided on the PartsSelect website for the proper positioning of the belt on the pulleys. After the belt is installed spin the drum by hand one turn to make sure that it is seated properly on the drum and pulleys. Reassemble the dryer in the reverve order.

Change dryer belt

  • Customer: Scott from Bayport NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I opened up the dryer as per the instructions I had received from PartSelect tech support. It was very easy to do. The only unexpected thing was that the original belt had snapped and in doing so the idler pulley was actually laying on the floor of the dryer's bottom. I had to figure out how it went, but that only took a minute and I popped it back into place. I held the drum by hand while pulling the dryer face away so it wouldn't fall and then I slipped the belt over the drum and quickly closed the front up again. I aligned the belt on the spot where the old one had been, pulled it through the idler pulley and over the motor and voila. Done. I closed up the dryer and was on to another "Honey Do" project within 20 minutes.

dryer makes a lot of noice, bad rolleres

  • Customer: Jesus E from Palm Bay FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
super fast shipping, got the part in two days, and had it done in 15-20 min, remove the front pannel, remove the belt and tenssioner,took the drum out , took the old rollers , lubed the shafts,replaced the old rollers with the new ones, intalled the drum back, the tenssioner and the new belt, reinstalled the front pannel, and done...easy and fast job, like new dryer, works nice...save some money...the new one will do the same..just dry the clothes.

Dryer stopped tumbling

  • Customer: Clifford from Mastic NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Pryed the top off the dryer, unplugged the door switch, took the screws out of the front panel, then lifted the drum out. Placed the new belt around the drum and while my wife held it in place and steadied it, I reached underneath and looped the belt through (as per instructions), reassembled and back in business! Reaching under the drum was not that easy....VERY tight space to work in and there was no way I could get both hands through, I almost gave up, but one last try and a couple of good grunts, and it popped into place. Getting the wires back on the door switch was a bit of an ordeal too. Took about 30 mins. but still worth it. I'm sure I saved at least a $100 repair.

Dryer sounded like it had rocks in it when running

  • Customer: Mark from Kirkwood MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Following the instructions that came with the parts, I removed the top off of the dryer, which was very easy, two more 5/16" screws and I had the drum out. I confess, this was my second time at this repair. 1st time I neglected to replace the rear drum seal which I strongly recommend you do while you have it open. I only replaced the 2 wheels last time and it failed very soon afterwards.
Lesson Learned: Always replace the rear drum seal when you replace the support wheels!!!

Drum would turn but not heat.

  • Customer: james from corpus christi TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
After tearing the back off by removing the numerous 1/4 inch hex screws, and locating the schematic in the compartment behind the dryer controls, I took a multimeter on the resistance setting and tested all the components I deduced were part of the heating circuit until i found the upper limit temp fuse of was open (i.e infinite , OL, how ever your meter will display this). I ordered the kit from here and upon installation found I had a different type of Thermistat assembly then the kit came with, however, the kit did anticipate this might happen and had "some" instruction on modifying the wire harness to accommodate the part. Essentially if you have this older style you will need to do some basic wire stripping and crimping to make it all work. While I am an electrical technician on aircraft, anyone should be able to follow the how-to video on this page(which deals exactly with what I had) and with the proper tools install this part.
I also cleaned out and inspected the rest of the dryer since I had it all open, including looking for burning on the heating element and inspection of the rest of the wiring harness. Finally removed the lint chute by removing the two screws located under the lint basket door, and the nuts holding it to the dryer frame and did a work over on it, finding a lot of compacted lint and debris inside. A can of compressed air helped a lot for this.

Drier would not heat

  • Customer: Jason from Birmingham AL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Wife said the drier was not heating. I looked on the internet and found Parts Select. Followed the instructions to test the heating element, thermal cut-offs, and thermostat. This is really easy, you just touch the terminals with the voltage meter to see which ones are not transmitting current (with the drier unplugged). One of the thermal cut-offs was not transmitting current so I ordered the part Sunday night and had it by Wednesday morning and put it on it about five minutes. Steps:

1. Unplug drier
2. Unscrew back of drier
3. Unplug wires from terminals of the parts shown in Parts Select instructions (one at a time)
4. Get a basic voltage meter (I bought a cheap one at the big box store)
5. Test terminals (touch the red terminal on the voltage meter to one side, black to the other)
6. If the needle moves to the other side, the part is OK, if not order the part and replace.

Dryer doesn't heat and timer won't move

  • Customer: Kevin from Tampa FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 15 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
Unfortunately the repair did not go well. I have changed the timer, 3 thermal fuses and the 240v fuse. I have had professional repair folks come to the house and tell me it was the timer.

I have no idea what's left to change or fix but the dryer still doesn't heat and the timer doesn't move.

Dryer would not heat up; blow only air

  • Customer: William from Sacramento CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the thermal cut off kit, and the dryer now had heat. Three days later, no heat; the thermal fuse also did not have continuity. Read on-line that overheating was the most likely cause. So, I checked the exhaust duct for blockage, but it was clear. Then, I removed the exhaust canister at the back of dryer; the entire bottom was filled with lint the size of a softball. The lint was heating up, and when it got too hot, it blew the thermal cut off. Cleaned out the lint, replaced the thermal cut off, and now it's fine. Moral of the story: Remove the lint canister and clean it.

Dyer drum doesnt turn

  • Customer: Shawn from Akron OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
It was really quite esy remove the screws from the back and pop the top off . then remove 2 top inside screws from the front , lift the front off the sides , support the drum and lift out , you will then see the idler wheels, replace them with the new ones ,replce the tensioner , wrap the belt around the drum, need help putting the drum back in the case, have someone hold the drum in place while you lay on the ground and put the belt around the motor pulley and the tensioner on the bottom.you then put the front panel back into place and secure with the 2 inside screws, then put the rest back together in reverse oder. ... hope this helps someone

Push start and the motor would hum.

  • Customer: Doug from Manitowoc WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
**** Remove power cord from the wall****

As said earlier, you will need to lift the top. Drop the two screws holding the lint shoot and pop the top by sliding a screw driver into the corner on the front. Lif tthe top and rest against the wall behid the unit. remove the two (4 total) screws at the top and bottom of the front door assembly.
Place sometin under the front portion of the drum. At this point you'll see the need to clean everything! :) Slide the belt off and around the drum, (take note of the routing it takes.) Remove the drum by gently pulling it towards you. Set it aside. Clean more. :) (It is nice to have a vacuum handy.) At this point you really need to get to the rear of the system. So I tipped the top back down, and spun it around. Removed the rear panel and cleaned some more. (15 years of a lot of lint in there!) Then you'll need to remove the rear cover on the left side, covering the blower impeller. Get read for a whole lot of debris. Vacuum again. So now you have the motor exposed in the front and rear. You need to remove the impeller by turning that clockwise to loosen it. The trick is holding the shaft in place from the front at the same time. I used an old rag and wedged it into the impeller edges and worked it around until it jamed up. Once the rag was wedged pretty good, I went back to the front spun the shaft. Then you can remove the impeller by hand. Vacuum more. You may get by without having to remove the lint shoot completely, but I did just to clean it up more. I did have to remove two screws in the upper corner near the top of the lint shoot. (Basically the hold the back in place.) I took a few notes at this point about the wiring harness. Used a heavier screw driver (standard), You can push down on the clips that hold the old motor in place. Then work it out the front. Clean more. The new motor is not an exact replacement slightly differnt but the instructions with it were ok. Follow them for the correct wiring. You will need to remove one wire and cut and recrimp a spade lug or two. I used ty-wraps to secure the lines back in place. Look closely at the diagrams and make sure you set the motor down in the same direction the instructions say, if you twist it slightly it will sorta lock in place where it needs to be. Re-install the hold down clips to the front and rear of the motor. Clean up your impeller, and reinstall it too. Then basically reassemble the dryer...tracing your steps backwards. This isn't really difficult, it just takes time and as you can see, you will/should clean as you go !

Loud banging noise when running dryer

  • Customer: Joseph from Prospect Park PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Found one of the two drum support rollers was badly worn. Found Partselect.com, found my parts in less then 2 mins. Figured that I was in there so I should just replace the belt so I got one of those also. Parts arrived in 3 days dryer as good as new in 20 mins.
All Instructions for the LER6620PQ0
61-75 of 1847