LER3330AAZ Admiral Range - Instructions

First, I unplugged the oven. Then, I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. After that, I gently pulled the element toward the front of the oven until the wires were exposed. I disconnected the wires from the old element, removed the old element and then attached the wires to the new baking element. I gently pushed the new element back into the screw holes and screwed the new element in place. When I plugged the oven back into the wall I heard a pop and thought I'd blown up the oven! Turns out the breaker popped...after fixing the breaker, I turned the oven on and the element worked just fine. I highly recommend PartSelect.com for their fast shipping and great products. I will be ordering from them again for future appliance parts.

Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.

Turned the breaker off, I removed 2 screws securing the range top to the range, opened the top and secured it in the up position, Removed the 2 screws securing the element ,one at a time I swapped the quick connectors from the old element to the new and repeated the process in reverse. I save over $100.00 in labor, plus most companies get you for a trip charge. It was easy!!

Thermal switch is integral to element and can not be changed, must replace entire element.

Turn off power. Removed front two screws above oven door jamb and lifted the top. Removed the bracket that holds the element against the glass top and removed the element. Moved brackets from old element to new one, aligning to same numerical position and then moved wiring to new element. Slide new element under bracket and reinstalled single screw. Replaced top and screwed down. Turn on power and test .

Moved the Appliance out unplugged it and removed the backing plate then Remove the Knob and unscrew the infinite switch then marking the 5 wires to know where the go on the new switch, removing and replaced it with the new one

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Failure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.

First removed the old gasket using a needle-nose pliers. Then placed new gasket by inserting the little clips on the gasket. Took 5 minutes. Great instructions from Repair Forum.

This is fairly easy for anyone to do. First I opened up the front (silver part) of the oven door by removing the screws at the top and the bottom. Then I kept on removing the various layers of glass... the 2 outside ones are removed by removing their respective screws and then you get to the inner-most. These 2 inner ones are in a frame that holds them together. I removed the large silver frame that holds the insulation and the 2-glass-frame in it. Just remove the screws and then tilt the insulation frame out a bit to remove the glass frame. You can tilt the entire insulation holder out but the insulation is soft and it starts to fall off. Just tilting it enough worked for me. Then I opened up the glass frame from one end, removed the left-over broken piece of the old glass pane and installed the new one in. Then reassemble. The entire process is very easy - but you will need another person for a few minutes when you remove /reinstall the glass frame inside the insulation holder. You would just need a little help holding everything... nothing technical. I would rate the repair technicality at 4 or 5/10. It could even be a 3 if there were less steps involved. Good luck! By the way, Amana/Maytag wanted $70 or so for the glass and then the repair fee. I got the part here for about $50.

First, I shut off power to stove(a must).
Removed two screws that hold element in place.
Gentley pulled element toward door opening.
Once wire is expose, hold back of element and pull gentley to seperate element from wire slot.
Connect new element to wire and replace screws.

Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.

Undid two screws on underside of cook top, lifted and exposed underside. Transferred wires from the faulty burner to the new burner, one at a time, paying close attention to their respective position on the wiring posts/terminals. Undid two screws holding old burner and then mounted the new burner to underside of cook top. Was really simple to do. :)

First I removed the two philips screws inside the oven that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the sensor out and the two insulated wires through the hole to reveal the plastic connector. I unsnapped it from the connector and replaced it with the new element. Then, behind the oven, I removed five or six philips screws on the right side of the large panel so I could pull the wires back through the layer of fiberglass insulation to make sure only the sensor itself would be exposed to the oven's heat. I then secured the back panel again and replaced the two philips screws holding the sensor in place.

3 months after my 5 year warranty ran out, one of the elements on my wife's maytag cooktop "popped". I was curious to see if I could fix it myself and ran across partselect.com via google. Their step by step instructions for determining the source of the problem (i.e. either the element or the control was bad) led me to realize that the element was bad. I ordered a new one -- which arrived in 3 days! It was very easy to replace the element, since I had already taken the glass cooktop off of the range during the testing phase. Thanks partselect.com!

First I opened the door to the oven. Then I opened the box that the part came in. (knife) I then slid the oven rack out of the box and unwrapped the plastic, being careful not to bend or scratch the new rack. Now, this is the tricky part... I had to move the existing rack down one space to make room for the new one. Then carefully slid the new rack in, tipping it slightly and sliding it in. LOL

flipped off breaker
Pulled the stove from the wall about 2 feet
Removed back cover (4 screws)
looked at existing switch - it was different than the new switch, but the instructions were spot on for the retrofit
I marked the back of the new switch with the retrofit locations of the wires
pulled off the knob
removed 2 screws from the front of the range that holds the switch
removed old wires using needle nose pliers
attached new switch re-using same 2 screws from the front
one at a time attached the wires to their proper location
pushed knob back on
reset the breaker
tested the new switch - all was OK
switched off breaker again
replaced the back cover
slid range back in place
Breaker back on
finished