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Bake element cracked on its own
Flipped the breaker. Removed shelf, Find the right size nut socket, unscrew the two screws, pull the element out a little bit, disconnect the wires (on pretty tight), pull out element, clean out any mess in the oven, compare element with new one to make sure its the same size and such, connect wires to new element, replace screws, flip breaker back, turn on for a few minutes to make sure it works. Piece of cake.
This was about the simplest fix I've ever done. Just pulled off the old surface elements & burner bowls, wiped down the range top, and put in the new parts. Perfect fit. No problems at all. $$ well spent. ParsSelect shipped quickly, and they arrived well packaged. A+ experience all around. Thanks PartSelect. JA, San Ramon, CA
Oven took 30 minutes to get to 380 degrees-no hotter
First I searched this site and read about the repairs - which made me feel like my husband could do it with ease. Then he removed two screws inside the oven, removed the broken element (didn't know it was broken til removed) and replaced the new one - just like that! The real key was being able to read how it was for other people who had already done it. That's the only reason I'm submitting my storey. Thanks
Oven tempature was approximately 150 degrees to low
This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.
SYMPTOM: The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was about 150 degrees to low.
FAILURE POINTS: There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.
REPAIR: As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!
Pull oven from the wall: - Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position. - Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off) - Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling - The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.
As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed, - Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws) - Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit) - Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board). - Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.
Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY... - 1.02K ohms in ice water - 1.09K ohms at room temperature - 1.36K ohms in boiling water. If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.
If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board. - Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant. - Carefully remove the wires one at a time - VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board. -- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector. - Remove the controller board (4 screws) - Install new controller board (4 screws) - VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side. -- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then, -- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then -- Press down on the connector locking tabs. - Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board. -- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter. - Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires. - Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.) - Re-install top cover. - Re-install service connect cover.
You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet, - Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place. - Flip power breaker to "On". - Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
I turned off the power to the oven at the breaker. Then I removed the two screws from the old element, pulled the old element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires from the element and installed the new one.
Removed 2 screws that hold element and pulled old element out about 2 inches to disconnect the wires from the old element. Connected the new element and remounted to rear oven wall. Very simple and saved a visit from the appliance repairman.
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires the repeated the process to complete the installation. Relly easy.
TURNED OFF CIRCUIT BREAKER. Removed nut, washer and screw, pulled out electric burner about three inches, disconnected electric terminals and removed damaged element. Inserted new element into oven, connected electric terminals, pushed electric prongs back in, screwed element to back wall of oven....DONE Easy as 123
I opened the lid, and found that the terminal blocks were burnt, the wires were melted. I ordered one set of terminal block to replace the burnt one, and it worked. Before I started, I shut off the electricity in the whole house to be safe.
PartsSelect is the BEST!! This is the second time I've had to use them on home appliances. Their web site was easy to use, shipping was fast, prices competitive and instructions very easy to follow. I would not hesitate to use them again. Very happy with service from the get-go.