Quick Question!

Have you ever purchased from PartSelect.com before?

Models > LEA30AW > Instructions

LEA30AW (PLEA30AW) Amana Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for LEA30AW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the LEA30AW
76-90 of 521
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

Lint Duct Assemby Replacement

  • Customer: Charles from Baltimore, MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
(Used joe From Beacon Falls Instructions)
UNPLUG THE DRYER FIRST
1. There are two bolts on the back of the dryer that connect the control panel and the dryer. Remove these bolts with a socket wrench and their brackets. Set aside.
2. Lift up rear of dryer top a few inches to locate two metal flanges on the front top of the dryer. Lower the back side. Now on the front of the dryer, insert the flat head of a large screwdriver (cover flat head with rag to prevent scratches) where the flanges are located and pry upward, one side at a time. It does not take much pressure until the top “pops” open. Repeat prying motion on other side of front dry to free the top.
3. The top of the dryer is now loose and can be slid backwards enough to see down the front of the dryer. Locate two screws (one on each side) inside the front panel a few inches down. Use the same socket size with wrench to remove these two screws.
4. Notice there are three wires that connect for the light on the right hand side. With care, these can remain attached. Alternately, take the time to write down the color and order and remove these now
5. Pull the front panel towards you slightly and lift up. The front panel will now come free and can be set aside. If you did not remove the wires, the front will need to be propped up close enough to the dryer so that the wires are not ripped out.
6. Remove the three Phillips Head screws located inside the dryer drum that attach the Lint Duct Assembly. Pull out the old assembly. Vacuum out if necessary.
7. Insert the new Lint Duct Assembly and secure with the three screws.
8. Reattach dryer front and top.
9. Done.

wornout lint filter

  • Customer: Loretta from Lincoln, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
There was no repair, just replacing the old, wornout lint filter. But I wanted to thank you for the ease in finding the part and for your prompt delivery. I really appreciate that. If we need any other parts we will order them from you.
Thanks again!

The dryer door latch was broken.

  • Customer: Jack from Memphis, TN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
The replacement part just snapped into place. (The old part had fallen out) It took less than 30 seconds to do the repair.

Squeaky Maytag Dryer

  • Customer: Brian from Boyertown, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
I went to RepairClinic.com & FixYa.com for some great advice. I searched the internet for the parts. PartSelect.com was the most inexpensive. Delivery was good. Using the repairman's manual I found on the internet I followed the steps to remove each panel, in order. The wiring was the most bothersome, but okay to resolve; write it down and pull it off! I don't think the rollers, in the back, were bad. The tension idler was extremely worn. I tightened the tension idler bracket at the base. I did need to use an O-Ring Spreader to get all the rollers off and on. Although there were more panels to remove than older models, it was easier! Wrap the belt around the drum before reinstalling. The belt will loop around the drive & tensioner relatively easy. Replace the rubber seal around the drum & replace all the panels. Things are quieter now than I can remember in a long time.

Air Duct Damaged

  • Customer: jEFFREY from Troy, MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Removed 2 screws from dryer lower front panel and removed panel. Then removed upper front panel (no screws, just clips). Removed screws from existing duct assembly (2 for the duct assembly and 3 that held the top of the assembly to the dryer opening (and the reason for removing the upper front panel). Original part was a two piece assembly, new one is a single part, using less screws. New part is also deeper that original assembly. There was enough room for the extra size. Installed new part, replaced top 3 screws, top panel, and bottom panel. The replacement was very straight forward. Anyone that has done this before could do it in a few minutes but without prior knowledge or a manual, it took a full 1/2 hour to do the replacement.

Our dryer was making a loud sound similar to a NYC subway train

  • Customer: John from Tinton Falls, NJ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Removed all of the front outer bolts holding in the lower plate, front door assembly, drum outer frame and drum. While removing the outer sheel there are colored wire connections that activate the linterior light and door sensors in which I marked the interior sheel with a marker so I knew which wire went where. Before removing the drum I drew a sketch on how the belt is ran thru the pullys and around the drum, so I would have no problem reinstaLLING IT.The rooler bracket was easily removed with a socket wrench and the retaining wring was pried with a pliers. Reinstallation of the shaft, roller and ring were as simple as removal. I then cleaned the entire interior and lint basket for optimal performance. The most difficult part is pulling the belt back around the drum, but still not very difficult. Finally I reattached nall removed parts as they were removed and I now have a like new dryer for about $20.00 vs, buying anew one or repair fees costing Hundred$ OF DOLLERS.
Thanks Partsselect.com Again!

Excessive noise

  • Customer: John from Ballwin, MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
1.Unplug unit
(gas model, did not shut off)
2. Remove bottom front panel-2bolts
3 Remove main front panel-2 bolts (no need to remove door)
4. Make note of wire colors on door switch and light, disconnect
5. Remove 3 screws that hold air duct assembly(that lint filter rests in) then set main front panel aside
6. Remove lower air duct (to blower motor)-3 bolts
7. Lift and tilt-up top lid/panel of dryer and wedge wood or ? (this will give you easy access and better light)
8. Reach back behind motor to move idler pulley and remove belt from motor & idler pulley
9. Remove 4 bolts and lift up and out front bulkhead frame that holds drum in place
10. Slowly pull straight out & slightly up entire drum
11. Remove circlip/retaining ring, washer, roller, washer and shaft assembly.
12. Vacuum entire unit
13. Light lubricant on shaft when reinstall in reverse order.

Snap ring pliers and a mental note of how the belt is routed on idler will prevent unwanted profanity.
This is an inferior/substandard unit before Maytag bought them. Spend the money and replace both rollers with new shafts (about 50.00). I have spent over 140.00 in parts to keep this unit running (less than 8 years old). So do the math before you start pouring money into this model.

No heat

  • Customer: Brian from Marlborough, MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Removed bottom panel, lint vent assembly, door assembly, removed belt, drum, then heating element from back panel. Unplugged wires from heating element and put them on new element in same order screwed the element back in then all the steps in reverse order. Now I have heat when I run the dryer.
Partselect was extremely fast in shipping my order. I will shop here again!

Underheating

  • Customer: Russell from Loveland, OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Removed lower cover. Vacuumed out. Removed black plastic vent piece. Cleaned out piece. Inspected blower motor while there. Took unnecessary photos of element wiring. Element is on lower left backwall of dryer and can be removed from the front by removal of two hex nuts and sliding downward and then out the front. I held the new and old units side by side and transposed wires and 2 components (not sure what they are - maybe thermostat) from old to new. Reassembled easily and works great - heating better than ever.

clothes not completely drying

  • Customer: Mark from Sheboygan Falls, WI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the two screws on the lower front panel. It is easier if you remove the three screws for the venting.I couldn't beleive the amount of lint trapped in there a fire hazard.The heater core is on the lower left corner in the back of the dryer.Remove the two screws and pull the old heater core out.The wires are long enough to pull all the way out.Attach wires from the old one one at a time so you don't mix one up. Then reinstall reversing the above procedure.

Cylinder Seal came out

  • Customer: Marcia from Hammond, LA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Early in the life of my dryer, the Cylinder Seal came out. For the past two years I put off buying the part. When it came in, I p[opped the top of the dryer, removed the two screws holding on the front panel, and pulled the Cylinder of the back wall of the dryer. I then placed the seal in the right spot, glued it down and reassembled. About Fifteen minutes of work and a cheap part, and now my dryer dries a l;oad of clothes in an hour instead of three.

My lint trap in my dryer broke.

  • Customer: Carrie from Hamden, CT
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
My repair was very easy, the lint trap just comes assembled like when you buy the dryer. However, I had a hard time finding the dryer part at a store.
Part select had the item, they made it really easy to find online. The best part is how fast I received it! My dryer broke the day before thanksgiving (wednesday) i ordered the part that night and had it saturday morning! and thats with thursday being thanksgiving! I didnt even the pay extra for faster shipping! I would use them again and recommend them!

dryer would not heat very well

  • Customer: matt from New Hampton, IA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I took out 6 screws and replaced the heating element, changed wires and reinstalled

The dryer made a random grinding/rubbing noise during operation.

  • Customer: Timothy from Hardeeville, SC
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
After removing the lower access panel, I observed the drum and belt and saw it turning freely. The support rollers in the back turned freely and were in good condition as well. At odd intervals the unit made a humming or grinding noise, and i decided to check the blower wheel (the other rotating part in the system). I found that the central hub of the wheel (which is made of a nylon like plastic) had sheared off from the wheel itself. I ordered a new part and started to remove the old wheel. **NOTE** many of the stories I read described how this part would have a reverse thread, it did not and that cost me an extra 30 minutes to figure out (the new part had arrows showing the correct direction to put on and remove - the original didn't). Once everything was cleaned and reassembled, I started the dryer again, but got no heat. I had previously replaced the heating element, so I thought my wiring was wrong. That wasn't the problem, but a hint from this site about checking the incoming wiring was the solution, my ground wire had come off the terminal in the back of the dryer and I wasn't getting the volatge across the element that it required. With the ground wire back in place, everything worked fine.

Air duct assembly broken.

  • Customer: Thomas from Summerville, SC
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I used a large flat head screwdriver to lift top up, then located 2 screws in the top right and left hand side to remove front. Remove the three Phillip Head Screws that holds the assy in place slide out. Mine had 2 metal pieces with wires. I simply unplugged and took metal pieces and installed in the new assy. Remove excess lint put front back on lowered lid and done! 15-20 minutes
All Instructions for the LEA30AW
76-90 of 521