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Models > LEA30AW > Instructions

LEA30AW (PLEA30AW) Amana Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for LEA30AW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the LEA30AW
16-30 of 521
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The original lint flyer was falling apart

  • Customer: John from Corona, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 42 of 46 people found this instruction helpful
I ordered a new lint filter from PartSelect. The part was in stock, and it was delivered to my home in approximately 40 hours -- yes, a little more than a day and a half! To do the repair, I removed the old lint filter and put the new one in its place.

Load Squeaky noise when the dryer is tumbling

  • Customer: Antonio from Elk River, MN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 38 of 42 people found this instruction helpful
To make working on the dryer easier we tipped the dryer back, about 45 degrees, removed the bottom panel, the door panel, note: make sure to mark the inside chassis or case with a sharpie where the wires go by color, etc… note: this makes it easy to place every thing back in order. I removed three screws on the bottom left side, to allow the more room for me to remove the drum. You can not remove the drum just yet but until the rubber belt is removed. I went below where the tension wheel is… it’s back behind the motor… incidental the tension wheel and the arm was the problem, it had warn to one side. Now release the rubber belt around drum. I pulled the drum out. The motor assembly is all one piece so it’s easy to remove. Don’t forget to unplug the plastic Molex plug and mark where you wires go. Two screws in front on the motor assemble and the whole assemble comes out. From here I could do a good job of cleaning the motor assemble and replacing the parts without any difficulty. Re-assembly was really easy, just one issue with placing the rubber belt took some time, and I need some help. I was finished in less than two hours. Bingo fixed!!

motor pulley went bad

  • Customer: Brian from Sedalia, MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 40 of 51 people found this instruction helpful
First unplugged unit .2nd took off front cover and removed bottom screws and that allows it to open up and lean back.3rd pryed the motor lock down springs by applying pressure down and out . forth used vise grips to hold motor shaft, while using the 7/8 socket to loosen the blower fan.Last go through steps to put back together.

Blower fan cracked

  • Customer: Rick from Birch Run, MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 34 of 43 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug the power cord from the unit. Remove the lower front panel; then the upper front panel including the door (unplug wire to door switch). Then remove the cover on the fan housing. Need to block the motor from turning; I used a stick to jamb the front of the motor; then unscrew the old blower fan and screw on the new one. Then replace the cover and put front panels back on.

Dryer would squeal when drying clothes

  • Customer: JOHN from CORPUS CHRISTI, TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
  • 30 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged dryer, turned off gas, raised front of dryer with two 2X4's on edge resting on legs, removed two lower panel screws, removed lower panel. Removed lower blower & filter assembly, screws (3) are on the inside of drum. (Good chance to clean it out) Removed two lower front upper main panel screws. Supported top panel with wood for access. Removed panel slowly, marked wires that go to door switch, set panel aside. Removed tension on belt by reaching in on the right lower side and unhooking the tensioner from belt, look to see how it is installed, for reinstallation on assembly. Pulled drum out slowly as not to damage seals on drum. replaced parts, attached with self tapping screws.(screws all the same size) reassembly in reverse order. Will need to put belt on drum before installing drum. Check drum alignment with rollers and seals. Used very small amount of high pressure grease on roller bracket and shaft assembly where the support roller shaft spins for lubrication. All's quiet. (Vacuumed out inside while dissassembled)

lint collector plastic holder broken

  • Customer: Todd from Wappingers Falls, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 26 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
Un plug the dryer ***
Pulled the top portion of the dryer off
Used socket to undue two nuts to remove the front panel and unhooked the wires.
unscrewed 3 screws and took out the air duct assembly. Cleaned the dryer of all lint and replaced the air duct with a new one.
Reverse the process.

Dryer lint screen was broken.

  • Customer: Jack from Tabernacle, NJ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 25 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
Searched Maytag.com and other sources, only partselect.com had what I needed. Three days after my purchase, our dryer lint screen was again fully functional.

dryer took several cycles to dry

  • Customer: john from east baldwin, ME
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 24 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
I took the front bottom cover off. In the lower left corner in the back of the dryer was the element. I removed the two screws that held it in place. The wires were long enough to reach the front of the dryer with the element for eas of switching. I pulled the element out to the front of the dryer and switched wires. Slid new element in place which looks trickey but it sits right were you need it too so you can get screws in. I put cover back on ran a cycle with no cloths to burn off the element and as good as new.

Drum Not spinning

  • Customer: Dann from Claremont, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 20 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
First, I unplugged the dryer. Then I used a flat screw driver to pop the top open. I removed 2 bolts from the front cover and removed the front door cover. I also took pictures of the electrical connector on the door so I would remember how the wires went back on. Then I removed 4 bolts from the front drum guide and lint screen holder. This allowed me to remove the drum & old belt. While the drum was out, I pried an access panel open on the side of the dryer. I then glued the new back felt piece in place. I put the new belt around the drum and re installed it. I re-installed the front guide and front cover re-connecting the door electrical switch. With the access panel open, I attached the belt to the motor. I then plugged it back in and turned it on to verify operation pryor to snapping the top cover back in place. Very easy repair.

Original belt finally gave way.....(15yrs old)

  • Customer: Garrett from Racine, WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Simply remove the front panel screws(2) at the bottom of the dryer. Pull bottom of panel outward until it swings free of the top(taking care not to pull the wires out). Rotate out of the way and remove the two left side screws holding the drum plate and snake the belt around the flange. Reinstall those screws and remove the same ones on the right side. Snake the belt behind that flange and reinstall screws. Then all you have to do is run the belt around the motor sheave and the idler pully and your done. Reinstall the front panel.

Screaming noise and drum not turning

  • Customer: Robyn from Pullallup, WA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
  • 18 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Removed top, remove front panel, removed drum assembly brace, removed drum and belt . The belt and rotor were shot. I replaced both drum support rollers since i was there. Then replaced the motor and Idler lever and pulley, the put the belt on and put everything back. This unit will last a while longer and the grand total including next day air 175.00. I tried to just by the motor locally but for 242.00 I got every thing listed above.
Thanks

the door on the unit wouldn't stay closed

  • Customer: john c. from north beach, MD
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
removed the dryer female part that was broken with needle nose pliers and inserted the new one, on the door i removed one phillips screw and r/r the male piece with the new one and re-inserted the screw. that was all, very easy repair

Dryer drum stopped spinning

  • Customer: Leif from Brighton, CO
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Dryer drum stopped but all other elements seemed functional; couldn't afford new dryer. Unplugged appliance & moved it to my garage (more room to move about). Undid base plate w/tools and found belt slack - identified broken idler pully wheel as part to fix. Went online & found part-select, located part & was way happy: $7.00 part + $7.00 shipping; got part 3 days later. Removed broken pully wheel (take off lock-washer, put wheel on, reinstall lock washer). Cleaned out venting elements (huge lint-ball & some sand in blower intake area). Re-attahced base. Back on-line to see "replace dryer belt" instruction sequence; opened lid of machine (while verticle) and positioned belt properly. Located access port (sealed) at base, knocked out the circular metal plate so I could reach in & thread the dryer belt back around motor & idler pulley wheel. Did test spin (manually) to make sure belt properly threaded, in place. Move appliance back to proper location, plugged in & hooked up venting to outside; ran test & SUCCESS!!!! It even seemed to dry better because of the now cleaned venting area. Labor cost = $0, Part cost < $15.00, Time (actual work) bit over 3 hours total.

Screeching sound coming from back of the dryer.

  • Customer: Brian from Yucaipa, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
First removed the bottom access panel, then the then pried the top lid open. Then, I could get to the four screws holding the front of the drum in place. Once that was removed, reached underneath drum and disconnected belt from tensioner pulley and motor. Removed the drum and discovered the problem. One of the two drum rollers had completely disintergrated from the shaft, actually "melting" off of its roller shaft. Removed both of the rollers and shafts by putting a flathead screwdriver on the slot of the shaft, and at the same time holding the locknut behind the bracket with a box wrench. I replaced both shafts and rollers and reused the same washers and snaprings. I used a screwdriver and a vice to remove the snap rings off of the old shafts. The best bet is to use a pair of snap ring pliers, which I didn't have. I used some white silicone grease to lube the new rollers up, reinstalled them and replaced the belt. You MUST route the belt around the drum before you install, then connect the belt to the motor underneath and wrap it around the tensioner. While I had everything opened up, I shop-vac"d the inside of my dryer(filthy). I did this before putting anything back together. Also, when re-installing the front dryer panel, make sure the motor inlet and the lint outlet tube form an airtight seal. All in all, this was a fairly strightforward job. The dryer now works great and is as quiet as a mouse.

Idler wheel was making a screeching noise

  • Customer: John from Derry, NH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
I first thought the drum rollers were the source and replaced those. It took me 60 minutes to get the dryer disassembled and wires labeled for reassembly the first time. Knowing how to do it for this repair made everything go quicker.
I removed the tension from the belt by pulling it away from the spring and then slipped the belt off the motor. I then removed the drum from the dryer to get to the idler arm assy.
The trickest part of this repair was putting a box wrench on the nut on the motor side of the frame. I found a 3/8" box wrench with an angled handle that worked well. I then used a 7/16" socket on the other side of the idler arm base and removed the bolt. I was careful to note the position of the tension spring so that I could put it back together correctly. I then put the new idler arm assy in place with the bolt through the frame but had some trouble keeping the nut in the box wrench. I ended up using a bit of chewing gum to keep the nut in the box wrench long enough to get it threaded!

From there it was a cinch - just put the belt back around the drum, the idler wheel and then pulled up on the arm while I slipped the belt over the motor. No more screeching!
All Instructions for the LEA30AW
16-30 of 521