Parts That Fix Maytag Washer LAT9416AAE Will not agitate
Will not agitate is a commonly reported symptom for the LAT9416AAE Maytag Washer, and we have put together a full guide on how to fix this. This advice is based on feedback from people who own this exact appliance. We have listed the most common parts for your LAT9416AAE Maytag Washer that will fix Will not agitate. We have included repair instructions, and helpful step-by-step video tutorials. If you are experiencing this issue, not to worry, DIYers just like you have fixed this, and shared their experience to help you!
1 Belt Kit
Fixes Symptom 43% of time
This kit includes both the drive belt and the pump belt which are both V-shaped. If your washer does not toss, spin, or drain water properly, this might be because one of these belts has worn or stretched out. This results in the belt losing its grip and no longer driving the pump. The pump belt is black and made of rubber. The pump belt is located between the motor and pump underneath the washer. Simply remove the belt and hook the new one around the pulley. You may need to loosen or tighten the belt to ensure it is set in place properly.
$
41.25
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS2005284
Manufacturer Part Number 12112425
Replacing your Maytag Washer Belt Kit
Customer Repair Stories
My washer stopped draining
My washer filled up and wouldn't drain at all.
I tried checking the fuses, then read that the belt could be broken or worn. I checked under the hood and the belt was broken right in two. I drained the washer manually then ordered the new belt.
I was able to replace the belt in no time with no effort at all.
I tried checking the fuses, then read that the belt could be broken or worn. I checked under the hood and the belt was broken right in two. I drained the washer manually then ordered the new belt.
I was able to replace the belt in no time with no effort at all.
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Jenna from St. Louis, MO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
24 of 39 people
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Washer wouldn't spin
My washer stopped spinning, even though I could hear the motor running. I did some research and found out there was two belts, opened mine up and it was broken. I replaced the belt in five minutes, start to finish. Now it's running like new.
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Ben from Truro, AL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
81 of 133 people
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Fixes Symptom 18% of time
This part does not include the dispenser cup that is found on the top of the upper agitator.
$
222.35
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS2019803
Manufacturer Part Number 22001821
Replacing your Maytag Washer Agitator Auger and Base Assembly
Customer Repair Stories
agitator not agitating
old agitator stripped plastic splines.
pulled up and out old agitator, aligned and pushed (hard) down new agitator, tightened nut.
easy-squeezy!
pulled up and out old agitator, aligned and pushed (hard) down new agitator, tightened nut.
easy-squeezy!
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Steve from Check, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
27 of 34 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Agitator top section was broken
Loosened set screw, removed agitator, installed new agitator and tightened set screw
done
done
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Beverly from Conehatta, MS
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
60 of 76 people
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Fixes Symptom 9% of time
This lid switch check is used in washers to detect if the washer lid is open or closed. This prevents a cycle from spinning when the lid is still open and is also used to start your washer once a certain water level is reached. If your washer will not start, agitate, drain, or fill with water, replacing the switch can be a solution to the problem. As a safety precaution, remember to unplug your washer from the power source before beginning this installation project. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further installation instructions and accurate guidance.
$
48.41
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11738787
Manufacturer Part Number WP207166
Customer Repair Stories
because the lid check switch was broken or expired - my washer would not go on and I have a baby!
I simply took the old switch out and put in the new one. The part arrived very qickly and the website was super easy to use.
thank you so much!
thank you so much!
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Lisa from San Diego, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
13 of 18 people
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Washer was dead and would not turn on
Well the washer died and would not turn on in the middle of a wash cycle. Absolutely dead. I disconnected it from power and opened up the front panel on which all the control switches and knobs are mounted. This is removed by unscrewing 4 screws at the top of the washer.
Checked the fuse, and found blown. Replaced the fuse, cl ... Read more osed the panel and plugged it in. Still not working. Checked the Check switches and found the Check Switch really limp. Checked with Digital Multimeter and found no continuity at either position. Unscrewed the check switch. Removal and re inspection with DMM of the check switch confirmed it was bad. Opened up the check switch and found contacts were blown.
Installed a new check switch making sure all the connecting wires go in the right places. The wiring diagram in the washer was very helpful in doing so since u dont want these wires reversed. Adjusted the plunger which operates the check switches when the lid is opened to make sure it is not over or under operating the switches. This is done by loosening the bolt holding down the check switch assembly and slidint the whole assembly forwards or backwards till the plunger has just enough push on the switches. This is done to avoid the plunger from exerting excessive pressure on the check switch and the safety switch in lid open or lid closed position. (both switches are operated by the same plunger according to the lid position)
Closed panel cover and plugged the washer in. There u go, it was alive again!
Checked the fuse, and found blown. Replaced the fuse, cl ... Read more osed the panel and plugged it in. Still not working. Checked the Check switches and found the Check Switch really limp. Checked with Digital Multimeter and found no continuity at either position. Unscrewed the check switch. Removal and re inspection with DMM of the check switch confirmed it was bad. Opened up the check switch and found contacts were blown.
Installed a new check switch making sure all the connecting wires go in the right places. The wiring diagram in the washer was very helpful in doing so since u dont want these wires reversed. Adjusted the plunger which operates the check switches when the lid is opened to make sure it is not over or under operating the switches. This is done by loosening the bolt holding down the check switch assembly and slidint the whole assembly forwards or backwards till the plunger has just enough push on the switches. This is done to avoid the plunger from exerting excessive pressure on the check switch and the safety switch in lid open or lid closed position. (both switches are operated by the same plunger according to the lid position)
Closed panel cover and plugged the washer in. There u go, it was alive again!
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Suleman from Canoga Park, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench set
109 of 124 people
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Fixes Symptom 9% of time
This black lid switch assembly comes complete with a bracket, two switches, and a fuse. An open fuse might indicate that the lid switch is bad. The point of the lid switch is for the tub to stop spinning when the washer lid is opened. It is a safety precaution just in case someone decides to stick their hand inside the washer while the tub is spinning.
$
42.42
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11739302
Manufacturer Part Number WP22001682
Replacing your Maytag Washer Lid Switch Assembly
Customer Repair Stories
Filled with water OK but nothing more
Used the online trouble shooting info. Tested as was requested. Found the lid switch. Noticed the fuse was bad. Replaced the fuse and noticed only water was cominf in. Ordered new lid switch assembly. Came with 48 hrs! Replaced and washed clothes! Great service!
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Basil from St Charles, MO
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
28 of 31 people
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The washer wouldn't start unless you slammed the lid shut.
I suspected the lid switch right away. Where I went wrong was in thinking that I had to get to it from below. After going to all the trouble of removing the front panel and detaching the top panel, I discovered that it was located inside the control section at the top of the appliance. It only took a few minutes to remove four screws and
... Read more
gain access to the old switch assembly and swap it out with the new one. One thing to note; the new switch assembly has to be set in exactly the right place along a slotted channel in order for both contacts to be activated properly. It's not difficult to find the right spot, but you have to do it consciously.
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Richard from Houston, TX
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
84 of 99 people
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Fixes Symptom 4% of time
This 3 prong lid switch is used for washing machines that do not have a tub light.
$
23.69
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11723153
Manufacturer Part Number W10820036
Replacing your Kenmore Dryer Lid Switch
Customer Repair Stories
Washer would fill up, wash, then stop
I deduced the lid switch was the problem.
I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back.
Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch.
removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine.
Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed ... Read more it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.
The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.
I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back.
Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch.
removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine.
Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed ... Read more it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.
The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.
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Glen from Plano, TX
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
22 of 30 people
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Lid closes, switch wouldn't turn on machine.
Used toothpick for a year to push switch acctuator far enough to engage switch. Broke my foot and found time to order part thru PartSelect. Went from cast to boot and received part 2 days after ordered. Had difficulty with foot and getting to switch. Went back into PartSelect and figured out how to dis-assemmble panels thru the diagrams.
... Read more
Time on my job doesn't, just that their service and expertise that is available to everyone is there to use. Broken bones or not, I will always get my parts and advice from PartSelect. Thanks to PartSelect.
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Kenneth from Wilmington, IL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
31 of 47 people
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Fixes Symptom 4% of time
This kit includes the lid switch and the plunger. The pin on the lid pushes on the lever of the switch to tell the machine that the lid is closed.
$
57.33
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS2003435
Manufacturer Part Number 12001908
Customer Repair Stories
Washer would not run without opening and closing lid several times.
Replaced lid switch assembly. Unplug washer. The console on this washer can be removed without sliding the washer from the wall. Just lean over the drum. Three phillips screws along the top, two machine screws removable using a small socket. Move the console forward to view the lid switch in the middle. Disconnect switch plug. Pop lid swi
... Read more
tch and plunger out. (Both part of lid switch assembly.) Replace. Connect plug to switch. (Could plug washer in and test at this point. Unplug.) Reassemble.
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Barry from Fallston, MD
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
30 of 41 people
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No power on washing machine
I removed the rear panel using a phillip screwdriver and a small wrench. I located the lid switch and popped it loose (no tools needed) and put the new one in. Power came back on washing machine.
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Daniel from Rio Vista, CA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench set
68 of 80 people
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Fixes Symptom 4% of time
This glide and spring kit contains two three inch springs, four one inch square glides, and two tubes springs. This kit replaces older style round roller glides.
$
57.98
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS2017149
Manufacturer Part Number 205000
Replacing your Maytag Washer Glide and Spring Kit
Customer Repair Stories
The belts were not staying tight enough to agitate properly.
Firstly, remove ac power from washer!
After removing the front panel of the washer (two philips screws), I loosened and removed the plastic motor cover and removed three hex head screws holding the motor. Have someone help you tilt the washer so you can remove the belts by "rolling" them off of the pullies (pump pully and motor pully ... Read more ). What I did was use a chemical degreaser to clean the motor base metal channel where the nylon sliders reside. After doing that and letting it dry, I removed the two old
springs. I ended up reinstalling the old springs because they were not stretched and I installed a new spring (total three) on the right side of the mount. A stiff metal rod with a hook on the end will help you install the springs. Squirt some of the included silicone lubricant on both sides of the motor mount channel and exercise the lube. Reinstall the motor and plastic cover over top of motor. Clean hands and clean belts while you have them out, reinstall belts and front cover and you're finished. My wife said it never ran better!
After removing the front panel of the washer (two philips screws), I loosened and removed the plastic motor cover and removed three hex head screws holding the motor. Have someone help you tilt the washer so you can remove the belts by "rolling" them off of the pullies (pump pully and motor pully ... Read more ). What I did was use a chemical degreaser to clean the motor base metal channel where the nylon sliders reside. After doing that and letting it dry, I removed the two old
springs. I ended up reinstalling the old springs because they were not stretched and I installed a new spring (total three) on the right side of the mount. A stiff metal rod with a hook on the end will help you install the springs. Squirt some of the included silicone lubricant on both sides of the motor mount channel and exercise the lube. Reinstall the motor and plastic cover over top of motor. Clean hands and clean belts while you have them out, reinstall belts and front cover and you're finished. My wife said it never ran better!
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dominic from weirton, WV
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
65 of 70 people
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Fixes Symptom 2% of time
$
8.00
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11739356
Manufacturer Part Number WP22002340
Fixes Symptom 2% of time
This kit comes with a hub assembly, agitator seal, and spanner nut. If your washer leaks once it is full (with or without clothes in it) or leaks during agitation, then you should replace the seal. This part will also fix symptoms such as loud noises or the washer not agitating. The seal may become damaged or deteriorate over time and will need to be replaced. The mounting stem goes between the two tubs and seals the water into the tubs. When the water leaks, it goes into the bearing, which will cause it to also go bad, which is why you will likely change these at the same time.
No Longer Available
PartSelect Number PS2351899
Manufacturer Part Number 6-2095720
Replacing your Maytag Washer Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit
Customer Repair Stories
leaked water when agitating in wash cycle
First I removed the screws that held the side panels on at the bottom, then I removed the screws that held the front panel on and removed the panel. I removed the agitator, loosened the retaining nut with a hammer and a punch, removed the bolts holding the tub springs, removed the bolts for the top panel and flipped it out of the way. The
... Read more
n I removed the clamp for the inner tub and pulled it out, then I pulled the outer tub out. Then I removed the seal and scrubbed the rust off the seal mating area, then installed the new seal and re-assembled the washer. It works perfectly now and no longer leaks and it is over 20 years old. This is the first bit of problem we have had out of this machine, the lonely Maytag repairman commercials are true.
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Jonathan from Lavonia, GA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
51 of 55 people
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water leaking from around center shaft below fixed tub
My washer is 5 years old and water began to leak on the floor. I took off the front panel and filled the tub. Water did not leak immediately, but after the tub filled with about 3-4 inches of water, the water began to leak from a rubber washer between the fixed tub and the drive shaft. I looked online for exploded diagrams of Maytag wa
... Read more
shers, when I came across your site. By looking at your diagrams, I determined what parts I needed and ordered them. The parts arrived in 2 days, and I installed them. There were no leaks and it cost me under $70 (a repairman would have cost at least $250). The only thing I would recommend to those in similar situations, is to purchase a spanner wrench (your site does not sell, but others do). The stem seal and hub assembly is reverse threaded (clockwise to loosen) and is difficult to remove due to tight quarters in the tub.
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douglas from bonita springs, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
523 of 545 people
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10 Gear Pinion
Fixes Symptom 1% of time
$
44.63
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11750606
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10221114
Fixes Symptom 1% of time
This kit is used on 2-belt washers. It is recommended to change the seal kit at the same time. The tub bearing kit fixes issues with leaking, loud noise, excessive shaking/moving or if your pump is not spinning. The tub bearing kit is fastened in the middle of the outer tub of your washer. The tub bearing ensures the inner tub is spinning effortlessly. If the rub bearing is faulty it might lock up and cause the washer to stop spinning. This is an OEM part that is obtained straight from the manufacturer.
$
55.59
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS2347235
Manufacturer Part Number 6-2040130
Replacing your Maytag Washer Tub Bearing Kit
Customer Repair Stories
Leaking water at bottom of unit
Followed the directions posted by another user. His tips were very important and helpful. At first we only ordered parts where it was leaking, then decided we might as well change the remaining parts as recommended by the other user in his description. This is the FIRST issue we have had in 19 years of use. Ordered the parts, receive
... Read more
d them quickly and correctly. Installed them and it works like a new machine. This Maytag will probably last another 19 years.
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Alice from Antlers, OK
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
1 person
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Water leaking from the underside center of the tub. Only on the rinse cycle.
I want to mention only the difficult parts.
The removal of the retaining ring/nut (which is under the agitator) . After 10 + years, it was very hard to move this part and it was eventually broke it to remove it. WD40 was used but not effective (to much calicum build up). You must turn the cone shaped piece (located under the inner ... Read more tub) clock wise to get it to remove. A spanner wrench was not used to remove this. I used a punch and a tack hammer. We could not remove the old tub bearing (closest to the shaft), so we just cleaned it up with emory cloth and used the new tub seal/outer bearing. Spins great but have not been able to check the water leakage problem yet.
Caution: there are two dark colored ring (very thin) that go back on top of the rubber collar. These must be reused. These are hard to see. I pushed the old tub seal/bearing out with the end of a 2x4 (very slowly and carefully). I put the tub up on two of the 2x4's, for clearance off of the floor and used the third to knock the old bearing out. Old machine are very messy.
The removal of the retaining ring/nut (which is under the agitator) . After 10 + years, it was very hard to move this part and it was eventually broke it to remove it. WD40 was used but not effective (to much calicum build up). You must turn the cone shaped piece (located under the inner ... Read more tub) clock wise to get it to remove. A spanner wrench was not used to remove this. I used a punch and a tack hammer. We could not remove the old tub bearing (closest to the shaft), so we just cleaned it up with emory cloth and used the new tub seal/outer bearing. Spins great but have not been able to check the water leakage problem yet.
Caution: there are two dark colored ring (very thin) that go back on top of the rubber collar. These must be reused. These are hard to see. I pushed the old tub seal/bearing out with the end of a 2x4 (very slowly and carefully). I put the tub up on two of the 2x4's, for clearance off of the floor and used the third to knock the old bearing out. Old machine are very messy.
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Mark from King George, VA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
19 of 24 people
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
Also known as Rubber Seal.
$
11.06
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11739362
Manufacturer Part Number WP22002417