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Models > LAT9416AAE > Instructions

LAT9416AAE Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for LAT9416AAE parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the LAT9416AAE
76-90 of 363
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Leak from tub and burning smell when initiating spin.

  • Customer: Scott from Hinkle, KY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
There is one good description already posted. I would add:1)If the the nut holding the inner tub doesn't loosen easily just split it with a chisel and don't waste time. 2)Don't order extra washers to remount the outer tub, they come with the bearing! 3)While disassembled I ran the spindle on spin to make sure the brake assemlby wasn't the problem. It ran quietly and smoothly. 4)The inner bearing sleeve was stuck on the spindle and didn't want to free up. I used a rotary tool to cut a groove in the old bearing sleeve then chiseled on the groove edge and it split nicely. It was very brittle. The washer seems to work well now. Next time I see a leak I am going to repair it right away!

Washer will agitate, but won't spin

  • Customer: Mandie from Lewisville, NC
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
I ordered the switch, which is what most people told me the problem was. I didn't have a multimeter, so I couldn't test the current one.

I removed the two screws from above the lid switch, removed the control panel screws on either side, and used a flat screwdriver to pry the top off by popping the clips.

The switch was easy to reach, and I compared the old and new switch after removing the paddle assembly. The new switch has three prongs, whereas my old one had two, so I put the gray wire terminal onto the bottom prong. I set everything down, plugged it in, and tested it, but still no spin cycle.

After some further research, I realized the problem was with the spin solenoid under the washer, or the red wire that leaves the lid switch and goes to the spin solenoid, also called a wig-wag solenoid. (This is a belt driven model, not direct drive.) It's not too common that the solenoids fail, but it is rather common that the wires break inside the insulation on this model.

Moral of the story is always ohm through the switches and wires before ordering replacement parts. (Remember, never ohm through a live circuit.)

Water leak

  • Customer: richard from Tarzana, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Tilted the washing machine back at 45 degree angle. Removed three screws from the underside of machine. Slipped belt off pump. Lessened two hose clamps and removed hoses.
Lifted old pump out. Dropped new pump in place.
Screwed in the 3 screws. Slipped on the belt.
Attached two hoses. Tightened hose clamps.
Set washing machine upright.

No more leak.
My problem was I could not prove the pump was the source, but after switching it out I have had no problems (good enough).

Washer tub would fill with water when not in use and hot water would fill slowly when in use

  • Customer: David from Universal City, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I turned off the water at the main water inlet. I then removed the hose connections to the valve inlet. I removed the one screw on the plate pulling allowing me to pull the plate out from the washer body. I then removed the wires connected to the old valve placing them on the new valve (so not to be confused). I took off the small hose clamp attached to the valve. I removed the valve from the plate and attached the new valve placing the a new hose lamp on the hose (wires were already attached) screwed back to the plate in the washer body connecting the water lines and turned the water on at the main valve. I did have to run to the hardware store for the small hose clamp but that was my choice to replace the one that was existing. The washer now works like it is new.

washer would stop in mid cycle

  • Customer: Phil from Grand Rapids, MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Determined that the lid switch was not completing the circuit. I then removed the 3 wires from their posts along with the 1 screw and removed the bad switch. Then, in reverse order installed the new switch. The part was 1/3rd the cost of the part sold locally. I ordered the part at 3:15pm Monday afternoon and it arrived at 1:00pm Tuesday- the next day. UNBELEIVABLE SERVICE....!

lint on clothes

  • Customer: gene from longmont, CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 13 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
replace lint filter under agitator, remove 1 screw, lift out agitator and replace filter screen.

Worn belts

  • Customer: Ronald from Birmingham, MI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 8 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
All I had to do is tilt the machine to expose the bottom and replace the belts. It was fast, easy and the machine works fine now.

slammed lid and broke lid switch

  • Customer: Patrick from Little Rock, AR
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
it took a little longer to fix the lid switch becasue the you have to figure out how to install the switch after you takethe old one out. The old one popped out but the new one needs some twisting and pressure. It also is an ackward position to work in on the back of the washer front the front. I think the instructions could have been much better by warning the installer to pay attention when you take the old one out. But it worked and we fixed the problem for $22 and four days of waiting for the part.

Washer did not drain.

  • Customer: Basil from St. Charles, MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Took front panel off. Ran machine. Pump is see-through. Could not see any "aeration" of the water in the pump and no water was coming out of drain hose. Disconnected electric. Disconnected hose from drum to pump(first emptied ALL water from drom)and drained in bucket. Disconnected drain hose from pump to drain and drained any water. Checked for obstructions in hoses. Removed pump. Checked belt (was fine after 14 years). Ordered new pump. Received the next day! Replaced pump and tighten belt. Connected hoses and test it. All OK. Replace panel and did laundry.

filled with water, would not wash nor spin

  • Customer: ELINOR A from MEDINA, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
After I replaced the timer, the washer still would not wash or spin. So my son replaced the lid check switch. It was hard to remove the screw, but he finally managed to remove it and easily replaced the switch. The washer works perfectly. We kept the timer installed (also easy to do by removing the old and replacing it with the new by just unplugging wires and I think one screw) because the old one had not worked properly for a few years when I had a similar problem which resolved, except it would only work in main cycle with soaking which was sufficient for me. This large capacity washer is in good shape and I hope will last at least another 5 - 10 years. ).

Fuse kept blowing. Happened when opening lid.

  • Customer: Denis from Hudson, OH
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Removed control faceplate (2 screws on top edge and flip forward). Removed wires one-by-one with needle-nose pliers and replaced on new switch to avoid mixing the connections. Removed screw and replaced switch then, replaced screw. Moderately tightened new part and operated lid. Listened for click open and closed. Adjusted switch position for proper "click". Tightened screw and replaced front panel. Done in about 10 minutes.

Top of agitator was loose and would come off.

  • Customer: Wayne from La Grange, IL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 9 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the nut from the bottom of the old agitator, slipped it off and put the new one on. After tightening the nut it worked just fine.

washer fills with water wont start

  • Customer: JOHN from ERWIN, TN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
checked lid switch ,plunger stuck in the in position 1 amp fuse blown took switch apart it was full of green copper corrosion stopping plunger from moving correctly. replaced switch and fuse and wow washer works

Would not run or fill

  • Customer: Jeffrey W. from Gloucester, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Opened top - removed old switch assembly. Plugged in new switch and re-assembled. Had to reopen top when washer filled and did not start cycle. Switch assembly needed moved slightly in order to engage second switch.

Washing machine was leaking water from the bottom.

  • Customer: Pedro from Portland, TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Hardest part was figuring out how to access the internals (not through the back or the top) It turns out there are two screws on the lower front of the machine, not easily found, which when removed allow the front panel of the machine to swing to front and out of the way allowing full access to the internals from the front. The water was comming from one of two water pump hoses. The hose was held in place with 1" hose clamps and was easily changed out.
All Instructions for the LAT9416AAE
76-90 of 363