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Models > LAT9416AAE > Instructions

LAT9416AAE Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for LAT9416AAE parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the LAT9416AAE
61-75 of 363
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Top auger section won't stay locked together

  • Customer: Manuel from Vacaville, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 13 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Ordered a new replacement agitator, removed the old agitator with the loosening of set screw on the base of agitator, which slips over the gear spline and installed the replacement agitator, tighten the set screw with nut driver, OH, you have to use the fabric softener cup, which snaps off the old agitator and install it on the new agitator. Wha-la!

Water leak

  • Customer: richard from Tarzana, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Tilted the washing machine back at 45 degree angle. Removed three screws from the underside of machine. Slipped belt off pump. Lessened two hose clamps and removed hoses.
Lifted old pump out. Dropped new pump in place.
Screwed in the 3 screws. Slipped on the belt.
Attached two hoses. Tightened hose clamps.
Set washing machine upright.

No more leak.
My problem was I could not prove the pump was the source, but after switching it out I have had no problems (good enough).

Tub would fill but wouldn't go to next cycle.

  • Customer: bret from arvada, CO
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced the lid switch assembly. The pictures were very helpful. Very easy to replace. Saved at least $150 doing it myself.

lint on clothes

  • Customer: gene from longmont, CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 16 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
replace lint filter under agitator, remove 1 screw, lift out agitator and replace filter screen.

I had water leaking out of the bottom of the washer when it was washing a load of clothes

  • Customer: Paul from Lansdale, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I opened the front of the washer by removing the 2 screws on the bottom front of the washer, then swinging the front upward until it was clear of the hangers at the top. The hose sits right in front. It was cracked where it attaches to the tub. I loosened the hose clamps at the tub & the pump with a nutwrench & removed the old hose. I slid the clamps onto the new hose & put the hose on to the tub & pump. I tightened the clamps, reinstalled the front & was finished.

Water Leaking from underneath washer

  • Customer: Rocco from Kenvil, NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
For the most part, I followed the excellent repair advice already available on this site for installing these parts. Especially useful was the caution that the threaded pieces had "left hand" threads and to loosen them they had to be turned in a "CLOCK WISE" direction. My washer is 9 years old and due to calcium deposits on the threads, I did have some trouble with loosening the large retaining nut. I first soaked the nut for a few hours with a rag soaked with white vinegar. This removed some of the calcium but I still was unable to undo the nut. Finally, I soaked the nut overnight with penetrating oil and WD-40. The next morning I was able to loosen it using a drift punch and medium sized ball peen hammer. I only had one difficulty. Maybe it wasn't necessary to do so, but I wanted the rubber boot seal to be seated pretty close to the surface of the inner basket. This turned out to require more downward force than I would have expected even though I installed it dry, without use of any type of lubricant or soapy solution. Now, two weeks worth of washing and not a drop of water seen underneath the washer.

Washer will agitate, but won't spin

  • Customer: Mandie from Lewisville, NC
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
I ordered the switch, which is what most people told me the problem was. I didn't have a multimeter, so I couldn't test the current one.

I removed the two screws from above the lid switch, removed the control panel screws on either side, and used a flat screwdriver to pry the top off by popping the clips.

The switch was easy to reach, and I compared the old and new switch after removing the paddle assembly. The new switch has three prongs, whereas my old one had two, so I put the gray wire terminal onto the bottom prong. I set everything down, plugged it in, and tested it, but still no spin cycle.

After some further research, I realized the problem was with the spin solenoid under the washer, or the red wire that leaves the lid switch and goes to the spin solenoid, also called a wig-wag solenoid. (This is a belt driven model, not direct drive.) It's not too common that the solenoids fail, but it is rather common that the wires break inside the insulation on this model.

Moral of the story is always ohm through the switches and wires before ordering replacement parts. (Remember, never ohm through a live circuit.)

water kept filling until overflow

  • Customer: Michael from Woodside, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
removed back of control panel to find that a mouse chewed the air tube. tried to splice it with a barb connector, it did not work. Ordered part received it 2 days later and installed it. I would recommend buying parts from these folks!

washer would stop in mid cycle

  • Customer: Phil from Grand Rapids, MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Determined that the lid switch was not completing the circuit. I then removed the 3 wires from their posts along with the 1 screw and removed the bad switch. Then, in reverse order installed the new switch. The part was 1/3rd the cost of the part sold locally. I ordered the part at 3:15pm Monday afternoon and it arrived at 1:00pm Tuesday- the next day. UNBELEIVABLE SERVICE....!

Leak from tub and burning smell when initiating spin.

  • Customer: Scott from Hinkle, KY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
There is one good description already posted. I would add:1)If the the nut holding the inner tub doesn't loosen easily just split it with a chisel and don't waste time. 2)Don't order extra washers to remount the outer tub, they come with the bearing! 3)While disassembled I ran the spindle on spin to make sure the brake assemlby wasn't the problem. It ran quietly and smoothly. 4)The inner bearing sleeve was stuck on the spindle and didn't want to free up. I used a rotary tool to cut a groove in the old bearing sleeve then chiseled on the groove edge and it split nicely. It was very brittle. The washer seems to work well now. Next time I see a leak I am going to repair it right away!

cycle would run to end but not drain

  • Customer: w from phoenix, AZ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
pull washer away from wall. unplug washer. check to be sure washer is unplugged. have significant other check to be sure washer is unplugged. unsnap front of cycle select knob. use needle nose to pull metal retaining clip. pull off knob and spring. pull off bottom portion of knob. check to be sure washer is unplugged. remove three phillips screws and two 1/4 hex screws from control back panel & remove back back panel. remove two 5/16 screws from front of control panel, right behind knob you removed. working behind control panel maneuver timer to remove. unplug timer. plug in new timer; plug is keyed so only goes in one way. maneuver timer back into place. tighten two 5/16 screws from front of control panel. re-install knob, spring, clip, cap. re-install rear control panel. plug back in washer. push back into place.

Smoking Washing Machine.

  • Customer: Matthew from Wilmington, DE
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Well, I figured out a couple of things during this process. #1 The Washer was smoking. It had happened before (a sock got suck between the basket and the tub) so I assumed that happened again. I couldn't see anything in that space this time, so I dissasbemled the washer to see if any clothing was there. Relatively easy once finding the screws to remove the front panel. #2 What I found was a sock in the pump box. I disconnected the hoses and removed it, saw nothing between the basket and tub and ran it to see if problem corrected itself. It still was smoking. That is when I checked the belts, #3 first the pump belt, replaced it, very easy, just pulled the old one off, and wheeled the new one on. It still was smoking, #4 so I replaced the drive belt, very easy and the same as the pump belt. It still was smoking so I lubed the wheels for the belts, and #5 cleaned the residual rubber around the wheel from the old, fried, dry rotted drive belt. No more smoke!!! However #6 remember to leave space between the basket and the top of the tub, as when I put the washer back together the basket didn't spin. I removed the top and ran the spin cycle, it spun fine, reconnected and it didn't spin, the tub top was touching the basket, that's when I relized the top was on too tight. I reattached and left about 1/4 in of space and all is well now.

Washer rocking to left and vibrating

  • Customer: John from Chesapeake, VA
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Wish there was a video. I am above average handy but this one- I might just pay someone next time...The tape on the threads was a great tip but took a while to understand what they meant by putting tape on the threads. Scraping off the old pads is easy for the front one but the back pad and a half is so hard to reach to really get it cleaned. Bruised and cut knuckles on that one. Then not having the glue for the pads was a surprise and you have to get a good contact type cement that sets in 10-15 minutes or you will be waiting hours to put it back together. It was easy to put the first spring on, then the second and third got harder and harder.

Top of agitator was loose and would come off.

  • Customer: Wayne from La Grange, IL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 11 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the nut from the bottom of the old agitator, slipped it off and put the new one on. After tightening the nut it worked just fine.

Tub Cover Split And Leaking

  • Customer: William from Ambler, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Removed washing machine front cover (2 phillips screws on bottom half of panel). Then removed two bolts that hold the top in place. Lifted hinged top, removed tub cover which is held in place with plastic mounting tabs. That was it. Put everthing back together approx. 15 Minutes.
All Instructions for the LAT9416AAE
61-75 of 363