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Models > LAT9416AAE > Instructions

LAT9416AAE Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for LAT9416AAE parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the LAT9416AAE
61-75 of 363
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Water would not shut off and continued to fill washer.

  • Customer: Brett from Decatur, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 12 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off water supply and disconnected hoses. Removed rear cover where water valve was located. Marked and unplugged wires to valve along with interior hose connected to valve. Unscrewed two screws holding valve to rear cover. Installed new valve with all the above procedures in reverse. Very easy repair that saved us slot of money in service call fees!

agitator would not work

  • Customer: Peter from Aurora, IL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
A tension sping on the motor broke, smoking the drive belt.
step1...remove front of the washer to access spring, tip washer back & prop on short 2 x 4 board. 5 minutes
step 2... remove one end of pump belt to get new bely up to drive pulley put on belt using fingers only & replaced the end of the pump belt....2 minutes

step 3...put new spring under motor & hook one end in attaching hole on motor, reach through with pliers to grasp spring to pull end to attach spot on base...1 minute

It took longer to open up the washer front & prop it up that it took to repair it. This is a siper easy repair!

Water leak

  • Customer: richard from Tarzana, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Tilted the washing machine back at 45 degree angle. Removed three screws from the underside of machine. Slipped belt off pump. Lessened two hose clamps and removed hoses.
Lifted old pump out. Dropped new pump in place.
Screwed in the 3 screws. Slipped on the belt.
Attached two hoses. Tightened hose clamps.
Set washing machine upright.

No more leak.
My problem was I could not prove the pump was the source, but after switching it out I have had no problems (good enough).

Lid switch had went out.

  • Customer: Kyle from Skiatook, OK
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the rear panel of the washer, and removed the lid switch assembly. Then, replaced the old one with the new lid switch and plunger. Put the rear panel back on the washer, and started washing clothes again!!!!!! I think a monkey could have done it....

cycle would run to end but not drain

  • Customer: w from phoenix, AZ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
pull washer away from wall. unplug washer. check to be sure washer is unplugged. have significant other check to be sure washer is unplugged. unsnap front of cycle select knob. use needle nose to pull metal retaining clip. pull off knob and spring. pull off bottom portion of knob. check to be sure washer is unplugged. remove three phillips screws and two 1/4 hex screws from control back panel & remove back back panel. remove two 5/16 screws from front of control panel, right behind knob you removed. working behind control panel maneuver timer to remove. unplug timer. plug in new timer; plug is keyed so only goes in one way. maneuver timer back into place. tighten two 5/16 screws from front of control panel. re-install knob, spring, clip, cap. re-install rear control panel. plug back in washer. push back into place.

Smoking Washing Machine.

  • Customer: Matthew from Wilmington, DE
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Well, I figured out a couple of things during this process. #1 The Washer was smoking. It had happened before (a sock got suck between the basket and the tub) so I assumed that happened again. I couldn't see anything in that space this time, so I dissasbemled the washer to see if any clothing was there. Relatively easy once finding the screws to remove the front panel. #2 What I found was a sock in the pump box. I disconnected the hoses and removed it, saw nothing between the basket and tub and ran it to see if problem corrected itself. It still was smoking. That is when I checked the belts, #3 first the pump belt, replaced it, very easy, just pulled the old one off, and wheeled the new one on. It still was smoking, #4 so I replaced the drive belt, very easy and the same as the pump belt. It still was smoking so I lubed the wheels for the belts, and #5 cleaned the residual rubber around the wheel from the old, fried, dry rotted drive belt. No more smoke!!! However #6 remember to leave space between the basket and the top of the tub, as when I put the washer back together the basket didn't spin. I removed the top and ran the spin cycle, it spun fine, reconnected and it didn't spin, the tub top was touching the basket, that's when I relized the top was on too tight. I reattached and left about 1/4 in of space and all is well now.

Tub would fill but wouldn't go to next cycle.

  • Customer: bret from arvada, CO
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced the lid switch assembly. The pictures were very helpful. Very easy to replace. Saved at least $150 doing it myself.

I had water leaking out of the bottom of the washer when it was washing a load of clothes

  • Customer: Paul from Lansdale, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I opened the front of the washer by removing the 2 screws on the bottom front of the washer, then swinging the front upward until it was clear of the hangers at the top. The hose sits right in front. It was cracked where it attaches to the tub. I loosened the hose clamps at the tub & the pump with a nutwrench & removed the old hose. I slid the clamps onto the new hose & put the hose on to the tub & pump. I tightened the clamps, reinstalled the front & was finished.

washer was leaking

  • Customer: jason from euless, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 11 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
first i removed front panel by pulling it from the bottom and then removing the top. then i removed the agitator with a 1/4 nut driver. then i had to open top lid which is hinged and held together by two 1/2 inch bolts. after i opened up the top of the washer i had to remove the white plastic top of the inner tub. in order to remove the inner tub there is a large nut that i had to use a punch and a hammer to break it loose. don't forget this nut is counterclockwise to loosen.hint use a little wd40 due to calcium build up around nut. once the inner tub is removed you should see the rubber bushing. be sure to remove all rust and water calcium build up before installing new bushing. i used a wool pad. put everything back together the way you took it apart and it should fix your leak.

The pump starting leaking around the center portion.

  • Customer: Kenny from Covington, OH
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
The hardest part was figuring out how to get the front panel off of the washer. Once that was done, the pump came off easy.... 3 screws attached it to the bottom panel and 2 hose had to be disconnected. Putting the new one in was easy.

washer would stop in mid cycle

  • Customer: Phil from Grand Rapids, MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Determined that the lid switch was not completing the circuit. I then removed the 3 wires from their posts along with the 1 screw and removed the bad switch. Then, in reverse order installed the new switch. The part was 1/3rd the cost of the part sold locally. I ordered the part at 3:15pm Monday afternoon and it arrived at 1:00pm Tuesday- the next day. UNBELEIVABLE SERVICE....!

Tub Cover Split And Leaking

  • Customer: William from Ambler, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Removed washing machine front cover (2 phillips screws on bottom half of panel). Then removed two bolts that hold the top in place. Lifted hinged top, removed tub cover which is held in place with plastic mounting tabs. That was it. Put everthing back together approx. 15 Minutes.

Washer will agitate, but won't spin

  • Customer: Mandie from Lewisville, NC
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
I ordered the switch, which is what most people told me the problem was. I didn't have a multimeter, so I couldn't test the current one.

I removed the two screws from above the lid switch, removed the control panel screws on either side, and used a flat screwdriver to pry the top off by popping the clips.

The switch was easy to reach, and I compared the old and new switch after removing the paddle assembly. The new switch has three prongs, whereas my old one had two, so I put the gray wire terminal onto the bottom prong. I set everything down, plugged it in, and tested it, but still no spin cycle.

After some further research, I realized the problem was with the spin solenoid under the washer, or the red wire that leaves the lid switch and goes to the spin solenoid, also called a wig-wag solenoid. (This is a belt driven model, not direct drive.) It's not too common that the solenoids fail, but it is rather common that the wires break inside the insulation on this model.

Moral of the story is always ohm through the switches and wires before ordering replacement parts. (Remember, never ohm through a live circuit.)

Top of agitator was loose and would come off.

  • Customer: Wayne from La Grange, IL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 11 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the nut from the bottom of the old agitator, slipped it off and put the new one on. After tightening the nut it worked just fine.

Washer rocking to left and vibrating

  • Customer: John from Chesapeake, VA
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Wish there was a video. I am above average handy but this one- I might just pay someone next time...The tape on the threads was a great tip but took a while to understand what they meant by putting tape on the threads. Scraping off the old pads is easy for the front one but the back pad and a half is so hard to reach to really get it cleaned. Bruised and cut knuckles on that one. Then not having the glue for the pads was a surprise and you have to get a good contact type cement that sets in 10-15 minutes or you will be waiting hours to put it back together. It was easy to put the first spring on, then the second and third got harder and harder.
All Instructions for the LAT9416AAE
61-75 of 363