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Models > LAT9416AAE > Instructions

LAT9416AAE Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for LAT9416AAE parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the LAT9416AAE
31-45 of 363
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Water inflow did not stop = flooded utility room

  • Customer: Kevin from Chico, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 19 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Cleaned up a wet utility room floor!

Unplugged power cord to the machine and turned off hot and cold water at the stop valves.
Removed the top machine screw that holds the metal panel with the valve attached (on the rear of the machine where hoses attach), removed it from the machine with valve and hoses attached.
Disconnected both water hoses at the old valve, together with the 1/2" hose to the machine. Mark hot and cold positions.
Moved the electrical contacts one-by-one to the new valve.
Changed the old valve for the new valve (one screw attaches to plate).
Connected the inlet hoses and 1/2" hose to the new valve, making sure hot/cold on correct positions.
Replaced plate in the machine and secured with the machine screw.


Washer would fill up, wash, then stop

  • Customer: Glen from Plano, TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 20 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
I deduced the lid switch was the problem.

I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back.
Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch.
removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine.
Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.

The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.

Agitator action was slow/weak; Bleach tube kinked

  • Customer: Robert from Marlboro, NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 22 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
a) Remove the front panel (use a putty knife to release clips)
b) Fashion a small hook-end out of a coat hanger
c) Install an additional glide spring (2 + 1 = 3) to get extra retraction of vee-belt around drive pulley as follows.
d) Hook end of of the new spring onto rear (back) hole of moving motor mount (observe orientation of existing springs to be sure that you're hooking up spring into hole correctly).
e) Lie on your right side, hold the spring in place with your left hand (go around back of the motor with your left hand).
f) Have someone hold the flashlight as you take a coat hanger and fish for the front end of the spring under the motor glide.
g) With front - end of spring held by coat hanger hook, pull spring towards you and slip spring into front hole of stationary motor mount.
h) Lightly spray in and around glide area with Teflon non-stick dry lube (DuPont or Liquid Wrench dri-lube product line).
Machine agitates like-new now.
Bleach Tube:
a) Remove hose clamps at both ends using a screwdriver.
b) Remove and discard old tube.
c) Slip on the hose clamps and slicker-up the ends of new tube with palmolive liquid detergent and slip onto tub and bleach dispenser.
d)Tighten clamps.

agitator not agitating

  • Customer: Steve from Check, VA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 21 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
old agitator stripped plastic splines.
pulled up and out old agitator, aligned and pushed (hard) down new agitator, tightened nut.

My washer stopped draining

  • Customer: Jenna from St. Louis, MO
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 23 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
My washer filled up and wouldn't drain at all.

I tried checking the fuses, then read that the belt could be broken or worn. I checked under the hood and the belt was broken right in two. I drained the washer manually then ordered the new belt.

I was able to replace the belt in no time with no effort at all.

Washer drum not spinning correctly

  • Customer: Paul from Huntley, IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 18 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
Drum on the Maytag washer was not spinning is a true rotational pattern. Adjust or replace the centering springs.

I had to hack saw off the centering springs eye bolts since they were rusty and not adjustable. If you have to cut the old eye bolts as I had to, be careful... the spring will jump up an inch or two very quickly and you want to keep your hands clear. It makes a load noise and my wife asked "what happened". Not a big deal, just be aware of the spring returning to a normal state.
Place the new eye bolts in position and tighten the nut with 4 turns. With duck tape I held the eye bolts in place from under the machine. Had my son push the drum towards the replaced spring to shorten the length of the end of the spring to the eye bolt. Stretch the new springs with a long screw driver, one end against the washer body, and the other end near the handle. Pulled down on the scrw driver until the spring can hook onto the eye bolt. Before cutting the old eye bolts I measured the length of the eye bolt from the spring to the frame. Adjust the new eye bolts to the same length after the spring is stretch onto the eye bolt. Overall a simple project, cost $40 for me and the best advice is using the long screw driver to pull down on the springs.

Motor Froze

  • Customer: Matt from Oxford, GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 19 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
Make sure to release the springs and pulleys before you try to tackle the bolts that hold the motor base to the bottom of the washer. Mine were a bit rusty and took some force to break loose. Also it's a good idea to take pictures of how everything sits before you disassemble as the pictures in the repair kit are not very clear. Other than that it was pretty straight forward. Wiring was a breeze. . . . Good luck

Washer leaking badly and making loud noise on spin

  • Customer: Barry from Brooklyn, NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Determined the tub seal was bad and ordered the seal and tub bearing. Removed the front cover with two phillips screws and unbolted the top to lift back. Removed the agitator with 1/4" setscrew on side and lifted out. Using punch and hammer, broke the inner tub nut loose (clockwise is off). Lifted out the inner tub, unscrewed springs from the bottom and removed; then removed the bearing with a little prying (had to raise the tub slightly and tap the center splined shaft to push out) and lifted out the outer tub. Outer tub had few rust spots about to penetrate, so sanded off rust, primed with etching auto primer and sprayed enamel topcoat to prevent further corrosion. Reassembled in the same order.

When done, there was still a loud noise on the spin cycle, so obtained a spin bearing and brake assembly (need to replace both most always). Tilted the machine on its back and removed the pulley, then put a special wrench on the brake assembly and broke loose (counterclockwise) with a 3 foot extension after placing a 2x4 section in the tub between wall and one of the bases for the spring arms (to keep the tub from turning). When the brake came off it was full of water and corroded from the leaking tub bearing previously replaced. Reassembled in reverse order and replaced two belts on the bottom for good measure. Works perfectly now and is very quiet.

In my estimation, the repair should have included both the tub bearing/seal and the spin bearing/brake assy from the outset. Could have used a chain visegrip wrench instead of special tool to remove the brake assy - whatever is available. The tool costs a lot and will never be used again.

washer wouldn't let the water spin out!

  • Customer: SHARON from DETROIT, MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
I was told that it might be a clog in the tube.. we check the tubes that wasn't it Then I Google it and was told it might be the drain pump. I was just glad that Part Select had what I need because my machine is over 20 years old. We change the pump and now I hope I get at least another 20 years out of my machine. I will always use part select to get my parts. Thanks

The top part of the agitator was loose and would rotate.

  • Customer: Michael from East Liverpool, OH
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
A 5/16 socket on a ratchet was used to loosen a screw. Remove the agitator from the splined shaft by pulling straight up. Slide the new agitator onto the splined shaft and tighten the new supplied screw.

washer would not fill with water

  • Customer: Fredrick from Clinton Corners, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 17 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
The trouble-shooting section on this website described the above problem and suggested that the proper course of action was to replace the water inlet valve, which I ordered and replaced. Replacement of this part was quick and easy.

Water leaking from the underside center of the tub. Only on the rinse cycle.

  • Customer: Mark from King George, VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 17 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
I want to mention only the difficult parts.
The removal of the retaining ring/nut (which is under the agitator) . After 10 + years, it was very hard to move this part and it was eventually broke it to remove it. WD40 was used but not effective (to much calicum build up). You must turn the cone shaped piece (located under the inner tub) clock wise to get it to remove. A spanner wrench was not used to remove this. I used a punch and a tack hammer. We could not remove the old tub bearing (closest to the shaft), so we just cleaned it up with emory cloth and used the new tub seal/outer bearing. Spins great but have not been able to check the water leakage problem yet.
Caution: there are two dark colored ring (very thin) that go back on top of the rubber collar. These must be reused. These are hard to see. I pushed the old tub seal/bearing out with the end of a 2x4 (very slowly and carefully). I put the tub up on two of the 2x4's, for clearance off of the floor and used the third to knock the old bearing out. Old machine are very messy.

Heard squealing sound when washer went into the "spin" mode. Tub did not spin

  • Customer: Edward from Stroudsburg, PA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 18 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced the 2 belts according to instructions received with the belts. Very easy repair

One day, I found my dryer continued running after I opened the door. And next day, it stopped working at all. I thought it was time to buy a new one, since my dryer had been used for more than 15 years. But I was curious to know what went wrong, and recalled my friend told me he repaired the door

  • Customer: Xiaobin from Cordova, TN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
My daughter found the video on youtube, which showed step by step repairing procedures. I just followed it and fixed my dryer in 15 min.

Plastic thing (Fill Injector) that puts water in the washer broke

  • Customer: AMY from Mount Kisco, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Unfortunately, I couldn't find instructions for removing the top for exactly this model. First step was to remove the front panel by removing the two lower screws, grabbing the bottom of the panel, and lifting up until the clips on top of the panel let go. Next was removing from underneath the two screws towards the front that held the top of the washer on. This gives you easy access to the Fill Injector, but if working alone you'll need something to prop up the front of the top lid while you work on it. There is one screw that hold on the Fill Injector assembly (top and bottom). This screw is removed from the top, via the control panel. To get inside the control panel you need to remove the back of the control panel (very easy), just unscrew the 5 screws on the back of it. Then remove the one screw that holds the Fill Injector assembly in place. From under the front panel, use your pliers to remove the hose clamp and then remove the Fill Injector from the hose. ONE IMPORTANT ITEM, YOU'LL DEFINITELY NEED A REPLACEMENT HOSE CLAMP. The one you remove to take off the old, broken fill injector cannot be put back on. Put the new clamp loosely on the hose, then connect the hose to the new Fill Injector Assembly. Put the Fill Injector Assembly in place and use a piece of duct tape to hold it there. Then reinstall the screw that holds it in place from the top, inside the control panel. Reinstall everything in reverse, give it a test and then have a beer. You've just "given it to the man" and saved yourself $100+ on a repair bill.
All Instructions for the LAT9416AAE
31-45 of 363