Models > LAT9416AAE > Instructions

LAT9416AAE Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for LAT9416AAE parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the LAT9416AAE
31-45 of 356
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Water was slowly dripping into the wash tub

  • Customer: Robert from Saratoga CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
After first unplugging the washer and shutting off the water to the washer I slid the washer away from the wall. It was a tight cramped space and difficult to get behind it. Most of the time replacing the water inlet valve was spent getting into and out of the work area to get tools and cleaning up a few years of dirt under the washer and water leaking from the hoses after they were removed. The valve removal and re-installation of the new one was pretty straightforward.Just a 3 screws 2 electrical connectors and three hoses. The water inlet hoses were frozen on the old valve and required a wrench to free. I also needed to replace the hose washers which fortunately I had as spares for my garden hoses. I replaced the solenoid leads directly from the old to new valve so as not to get that wrong. Removing the outlet hose clamp was tricky- I needed a fat wrench to depress all the tines and slip it off. Fortunately I was able to reuse it. After securing the mounting screws and tightening the inlet hoses with a wrench just until I met some resistance, I turned the power and water back on and prayed there were no leaks. None- back in business.

washing machine lid came off during a move

  • Customer: David from New Orleans LA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 13 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
First, I secured one lid hinge ball in its appropriate position between the lid and the washer. While keeping the first ball in place I placed the other lid hinge ball as close to its intended position as I could get it. Next, I pushed the lid and ball into its position.

The water injector assembly wore down allowing water to shoot behind tub and leak onto floor

  • Customer: Jana from Post Falls ID
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
I shut off the water feeds and unplugged the washing machine.

I removed the two screws on the bottom panel and lifted it off.

I then lifted the bottom corners of the front plate, pulling out and raising it at about a 45 degree angle, releasing the spring clips which held the top of the front plate to the top of the washing machine and set it aside.

I then located and removed the screws located underneath the top, one in each, of the undersides, of the front corners.

I used duct tape to tape the washing machine lid to the top so that it would not flop open and get damaged as I lifted the top on it's hinges.

I saw, at this point that I needed to open the control panel.

I set the top back down.

On top of the control panel cabinet there are four screws, two on each side. I removed the inner screw from each side and lifted out the control panel and set it down with all it's wires intact.

You will see a hex head screw that is holding the funnel of the water injector in place, I removed it with a nut driver and then reassembled the control panel so that nothing would get damaged as I, once again lifted the top and let it rest open on it's hinges.

I used a long needle nose pliers to squeeze open the hose clamp and loosen and remove the hose so that the complete water injector assembly was free and set it aside.

At this point, I connected the hose of the new unit to it's connector and set the clamp, lowered the top, re-opened the control panel and holding the water injector funnel in place by reaching through the lid I screwed it back into place. From there it was only reversing the steps to reassemble the cabinet.

I was concerned about reinstalling the front panel on it's spring clips but found it to be no problem. I held the front panel at the angle it was in when it popped loose, with the clips resting against the lip of the top and lowered the bottom into place, it just snapped back into place.

Machine started making loud squeak, then completely stopped after a couple more cycles.

  • Customer: Robert from Apopka FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I tilted machine onto the front to acces the rear panel. i removed the three screws to expose pump, took of the drive belt located under appliance, removed the three pump screws and removed old defective pump. I installed new pump, put the drive belt back on, reinstalled back panel and screws, hooked the appliance up and started. Been running great ever since. Entire process too about 10 min.

Washer would fill up, wash, then stop

  • Customer: Glen from Plano TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I deduced the lid switch was the problem.

I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back.
Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch.
removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine.
Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.

The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.

Water leaking from the underside center of the tub. Only on the rinse cycle.

  • Customer: Mark from King George VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 12 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
I want to mention only the difficult parts.
The removal of the retaining ring/nut (which is under the agitator) . After 10 + years, it was very hard to move this part and it was eventually broke it to remove it. WD40 was used but not effective (to much calicum build up). You must turn the cone shaped piece (located under the inner tub) clock wise to get it to remove. A spanner wrench was not used to remove this. I used a punch and a tack hammer. We could not remove the old tub bearing (closest to the shaft), so we just cleaned it up with emory cloth and used the new tub seal/outer bearing. Spins great but have not been able to check the water leakage problem yet.
Caution: there are two dark colored ring (very thin) that go back on top of the rubber collar. These must be reused. These are hard to see. I pushed the old tub seal/bearing out with the end of a 2x4 (very slowly and carefully). I put the tub up on two of the 2x4's, for clearance off of the floor and used the third to knock the old bearing out. Old machine are very messy.

Strange noises - drum not always emptying

  • Customer: Kenneth from Sunnyvale CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Found a very stretched, loose pump belt. Was able to pull it off pump pulley and motor pulley easily. Pushed motor assembly toward transmission pulley and removed wider drive belt. Wiped all pulleys clean. There's a double on the motor- one for drive belt, one for pump belt. Removed two hoses from pump using nutdriver. Removed pump. New pump installed. Installed two hoses on new pump. Installed drive new drive belt. Installed pump belt last. Slid pump to near farthest spot in slots. Tested for correct tension by pinching pump belt. Should be able to pinch center so two pump belt sides come within 1/4" of each other just as the spring tensioned motor mount starts to move. Pused washer back into place after external hoses connected. All new hose washers and filters on both hot and cold. Ran, checked for leaks - none! Absolutely perfect. Put front panel back on. No weird noises and drum empties perfectly every time. My wife is so pleased she's doing more loads.

Washer leaking badly and making loud noise on spin

  • Customer: Barry from Brooklyn NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Determined the tub seal was bad and ordered the seal and tub bearing. Removed the front cover with two phillips screws and unbolted the top to lift back. Removed the agitator with 1/4" setscrew on side and lifted out. Using punch and hammer, broke the inner tub nut loose (clockwise is off). Lifted out the inner tub, unscrewed springs from the bottom and removed; then removed the bearing with a little prying (had to raise the tub slightly and tap the center splined shaft to push out) and lifted out the outer tub. Outer tub had few rust spots about to penetrate, so sanded off rust, primed with etching auto primer and sprayed enamel topcoat to prevent further corrosion. Reassembled in the same order.

When done, there was still a loud noise on the spin cycle, so obtained a spin bearing and brake assembly (need to replace both most always). Tilted the machine on its back and removed the pulley, then put a special wrench on the brake assembly and broke loose (counterclockwise) with a 3 foot extension after placing a 2x4 section in the tub between wall and one of the bases for the spring arms (to keep the tub from turning). When the brake came off it was full of water and corroded from the leaking tub bearing previously replaced. Reassembled in reverse order and replaced two belts on the bottom for good measure. Works perfectly now and is very quiet.

In my estimation, the repair should have included both the tub bearing/seal and the spin bearing/brake assy from the outset. Could have used a chain visegrip wrench instead of special tool to remove the brake assy - whatever is available. The tool costs a lot and will never be used again.

The water didn't pump out during the spin cycle

  • Customer: Robert from Menomonee Falls WI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 12 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
I took out the two screws in the bottom front panel of the washer, and rotated the front panel from the bottom away from the machine until the top or the panel was released from the machine frame. I then tilted the washer back to get access to the bottom of the machine. The pump pulley had split in half, and the bottom half fell off the drive motor shaft. The only problem I had was breaking free the set screw that holds the pulley to the drive motor shaft. I used a long arm Allen wrench and an adjustable "Cresent" wrench to apply enough force to break the set screw loose. Iclamped the upper transmission belts tightly to keep the motor shaft from turning while I loosened the set screw.

unit stop working altogether a

  • Customer: Al from Blackwood NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
descovered blown fuse on lid switch assembly. Checked out info on Parts Select.com they reccommended the lid switch assembly. I bought it putting it in was very easy! Problem solved!

Agitator action was slow/weak; Bleach tube kinked

  • Customer: Robert from Marlboro NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
UNPLUG THE MACHINE FIRST!
a) Remove the front panel (use a putty knife to release clips)
b) Fashion a small hook-end out of a coat hanger
c) Install an additional glide spring (2 + 1 = 3) to get extra retraction of vee-belt around drive pulley as follows.
d) Hook end of of the new spring onto rear (back) hole of moving motor mount (observe orientation of existing springs to be sure that you're hooking up spring into hole correctly).
e) Lie on your right side, hold the spring in place with your left hand (go around back of the motor with your left hand).
f) Have someone hold the flashlight as you take a coat hanger and fish for the front end of the spring under the motor glide.
g) With front - end of spring held by coat hanger hook, pull spring towards you and slip spring into front hole of stationary motor mount.
h) Lightly spray in and around glide area with Teflon non-stick dry lube (DuPont or Liquid Wrench dri-lube product line).
Machine agitates like-new now.
Bleach Tube:
a) Remove hose clamps at both ends using a screwdriver.
b) Remove and discard old tube.
c) Slip on the hose clamps and slicker-up the ends of new tube with palmolive liquid detergent and slip onto tub and bleach dispenser.
d)Tighten clamps.

Plastic thing (Fill Injector) that puts water in the washer broke

  • Customer: AMY from Mount Kisco NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Unfortunately, I couldn't find instructions for removing the top for exactly this model. First step was to remove the front panel by removing the two lower screws, grabbing the bottom of the panel, and lifting up until the clips on top of the panel let go. Next was removing from underneath the two screws towards the front that held the top of the washer on. This gives you easy access to the Fill Injector, but if working alone you'll need something to prop up the front of the top lid while you work on it. There is one screw that hold on the Fill Injector assembly (top and bottom). This screw is removed from the top, via the control panel. To get inside the control panel you need to remove the back of the control panel (very easy), just unscrew the 5 screws on the back of it. Then remove the one screw that holds the Fill Injector assembly in place. From under the front panel, use your pliers to remove the hose clamp and then remove the Fill Injector from the hose. ONE IMPORTANT ITEM, YOU'LL DEFINITELY NEED A REPLACEMENT HOSE CLAMP. The one you remove to take off the old, broken fill injector cannot be put back on. Put the new clamp loosely on the hose, then connect the hose to the new Fill Injector Assembly. Put the Fill Injector Assembly in place and use a piece of duct tape to hold it there. Then reinstall the screw that holds it in place from the top, inside the control panel. Reinstall everything in reverse, give it a test and then have a beer. You've just "given it to the man" and saved yourself $100+ on a repair bill.

it was leaking underneath the washing machine tub

  • Customer: Jason from Clinton OK
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
That would take forever to write in everything you have to do, but I did go to a website that had the steps you must do to complete the repair. You can google tub seal kit and mounting stem and the brand of your appliance and i'm sure you will come across the steps to complete the repair. I would advise you to first order a spanner wrench it makes the job much easier and you really can't complete the job without it. So do that first and then take the machine apart if you suspect it's a tub seal leak and then order your parts. if i had a spanner wrench available to me from the beginning it would have gone much smoother from the start.

The top part of the agitator was loose and would rotate.

  • Customer: Michael from East Liverpool OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
A 5/16 socket on a ratchet was used to loosen a screw. Remove the agitator from the splined shaft by pulling straight up. Slide the new agitator onto the splined shaft and tighten the new supplied screw.

The Dryer stopped working completely.

  • Customer: Elyse from Chicago IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I looked up the procedure to remove the switch in a repair book, removed the broken switch. Then I reconnected the wire leads, put the part in and closed everything up. The part arrived so quickly and there were even instructions with the part which made the repair go so easily.
All Instructions for the LAT9416AAE
31-45 of 356