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Models > LAT9416AAE > Instructions

LAT9416AAE Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for LAT9416AAE parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the LAT9416AAE
16-30 of 363
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machine very slow filling with water

  • Customer: William from McLeansboro, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 40 of 46 people found this instruction helpful
After making sure the lines and screens are clean, and there is good water flow thru the hoses to the valves, and there is power to the valve solenoids, (which can be detected by setting to fill and pulling out on the start knob), and hearing a "click" at the valve, you can summize that the valve is weak, or partially blocked internally.
Replace the valve by unpluging the power cord to the machine. Remove the hoses. Remove the screw that attaches the valve mounting plate. Pull the plate and valve out and remove the screw that attaches the valve to the plate. Unplug the wires from the solenoides,[IMPORTANT] noting which wires go to each valve. Remove the rubber hose on top of the valve by squeezing the hose clamp with a pair of pliers, and sliding the clamp up the hose. Now you can pull the hose off. Install the new valve in the reverse order.

only cold water would go through the valve

  • Customer: David from Bedford, OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 38 of 45 people found this instruction helpful
The washing machine would only fill with cold water. This could be a problem with the controls, the wiring or the valve where the external hoses connect. Various tests, which only those with the proper skills & equipment should perform, revealed that the water valve hot side was not opening. UNPLUG the washing machine before doing any work and especially before opening any access panels. NOTE: Label all fasteners & other connections you remove so you know where they should go back. WITH the Washing Machine UNPLUGGED from the wall outlet, I unscrewed the external hot & cold hoses (make sure the water is turned off first!). I unscrewed the panel that holds the valve in a recess in the back of the machine. On this machine, the panel pulls out of the back with the valve attached to it. So I pulled the panel/valve assembly out of the recess and disconnected its electrical connectors (double-check the washing machine is unplugged before doing this). I also disconnected the internal hose that leads from the valve. Finally, I detached the valve from the panel. Installation is the reverse of removal, although it is a good idea to use a new spring clip or hose clamp, whichever you have, to attach the internal hose to your new valve. Once the valve assembly is properly installed, connect your external hoses, double-checking for hot & cold sides carefully, turn the water on and check for leaks. When all that is ok, plug the washer in and test it.

Washer was leaking water onto the floor underneath

  • Customer: Eric from Bonnots Mill, MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 30 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
Pryed the front cover off and set it aside. I pulled the top cover off by removing the 1/2" hex screws under the front cover and hinged it back. Removed the agitator set screw with a 1/4" hex nut driver and pulled out the agitator assembly. Had to remove the nut that holds the hub assembly in by using a hammer and punch. There is not much room in the tub so be careful you don't hit the sides. It goes off by turning it clockwise. Then the splash guard comes off and then the inner tub with the top gasket and ring can be lifted out of the washer. The tapered cork covered hub was exposed and it also had to be removed with a hammer and punch clockwise after removing the torx set screw on the side of the hub. The rubber seal was now able to be removed under the hub and on top of the bearing on the outer tub. I had to clean all the accumulated scale off seal and bearing surfaces before putting new parts in (rubber seal, hub assembly, and new locking nut). Everything went back easily. Should be good for another 5-10 years...

shaft lock was damaged and agitator would not stay down in proper location

  • Customer: Beverly from Manchester, TN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 33 of 45 people found this instruction helpful
Made a 4 prong wrench from a 2" pipe coupling to remove retaining nut. Had to tap retaining washer a few times with hammer and after that it came off very easy. All other work was very easy. parts went together with ease. Saved company several $'s as we were told it was not recomended to repair and should replace washer. Under $100 for parts and a couple hours labor.

burning rubber smell

  • Customer: EVAN from DUXBURY, MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Wrench set
  • 29 of 40 people found this instruction helpful
The repair was easy but didn't fix the issue . The transmission was the problem washing machine would no longer agitate

The water injector assembly wore down allowing water to shoot behind tub and leak onto floor

  • Customer: Jana from Post Falls, ID
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 25 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
I shut off the water feeds and unplugged the washing machine.

I removed the two screws on the bottom panel and lifted it off.

I then lifted the bottom corners of the front plate, pulling out and raising it at about a 45 degree angle, releasing the spring clips which held the top of the front plate to the top of the washing machine and set it aside.

I then located and removed the screws located underneath the top, one in each, of the undersides, of the front corners.

I used duct tape to tape the washing machine lid to the top so that it would not flop open and get damaged as I lifted the top on it's hinges.

I saw, at this point that I needed to open the control panel.

I set the top back down.

On top of the control panel cabinet there are four screws, two on each side. I removed the inner screw from each side and lifted out the control panel and set it down with all it's wires intact.

You will see a hex head screw that is holding the funnel of the water injector in place, I removed it with a nut driver and then reassembled the control panel so that nothing would get damaged as I, once again lifted the top and let it rest open on it's hinges.

I used a long needle nose pliers to squeeze open the hose clamp and loosen and remove the hose so that the complete water injector assembly was free and set it aside.

At this point, I connected the hose of the new unit to it's connector and set the clamp, lowered the top, re-opened the control panel and holding the water injector funnel in place by reaching through the lid I screwed it back into place. From there it was only reversing the steps to reassemble the cabinet.

I was concerned about reinstalling the front panel on it's spring clips but found it to be no problem. I held the front panel at the angle it was in when it popped loose, with the clips resting against the lip of the top and lowered the bottom into place, it just snapped back into place.

washing machine lid came off during a move

  • Customer: David from New Orleans, LA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 24 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
First, I secured one lid hinge ball in its appropriate position between the lid and the washer. While keeping the first ball in place I placed the other lid hinge ball as close to its intended position as I could get it. Next, I pushed the lid and ball into its position.

Washer would not run without opening and closing lid several times.

  • Customer: Barry from Fallston, MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 27 of 38 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced lid switch assembly. Unplug washer. The console on this washer can be removed without sliding the washer from the wall. Just lean over the drum. Three phillips screws along the top, two machine screws removable using a small socket. Move the console forward to view the lid switch in the middle. Disconnect switch plug. Pop lid switch and plunger out. (Both part of lid switch assembly.) Replace. Connect plug to switch. (Could plug washer in and test at this point. Unplug.) Reassemble.

The washer wouldn't start after the tub filled with water.

  • Customer: Dale S from Walnut Ridge, AR
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 28 of 42 people found this instruction helpful
Unpluged the washer and removed the top cover. Removed the screws holding the switches and unplug the wires. The process was very easy and the washer worked like a new one.

Filled with water OK but nothing more

  • Customer: Basil from St Charles, MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 22 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
Used the online trouble shooting info. Tested as was requested. Found the lid switch. Noticed the fuse was bad. Replaced the fuse and noticed only water was cominf in. Ordered new lid switch assembly. Came with 48 hrs! Replaced and washed clothes! Great service!

Water was slowly dripping into the wash tub

  • Customer: Robert from Saratoga, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 20 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
After first unplugging the washer and shutting off the water to the washer I slid the washer away from the wall. It was a tight cramped space and difficult to get behind it. Most of the time replacing the water inlet valve was spent getting into and out of the work area to get tools and cleaning up a few years of dirt under the washer and water leaking from the hoses after they were removed. The valve removal and re-installation of the new one was pretty straightforward.Just a 3 screws 2 electrical connectors and three hoses. The water inlet hoses were frozen on the old valve and required a wrench to free. I also needed to replace the hose washers which fortunately I had as spares for my garden hoses. I replaced the solenoid leads directly from the old to new valve so as not to get that wrong. Removing the outlet hose clamp was tricky- I needed a fat wrench to depress all the tines and slip it off. Fortunately I was able to reuse it. After securing the mounting screws and tightening the inlet hoses with a wrench just until I met some resistance, I turned the power and water back on and prayed there were no leaks. None- back in business.

Strange noises - drum not always emptying

  • Customer: Kenneth from Sunnyvale, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 20 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
Found a very stretched, loose pump belt. Was able to pull it off pump pulley and motor pulley easily. Pushed motor assembly toward transmission pulley and removed wider drive belt. Wiped all pulleys clean. There's a double on the motor- one for drive belt, one for pump belt. Removed two hoses from pump using nutdriver. Removed pump. New pump installed. Installed two hoses on new pump. Installed drive new drive belt. Installed pump belt last. Slid pump to near farthest spot in slots. Tested for correct tension by pinching pump belt. Should be able to pinch center so two pump belt sides come within 1/4" of each other just as the spring tensioned motor mount starts to move. Pused washer back into place after external hoses connected. All new hose washers and filters on both hot and cold. Ran, checked for leaks - none! Absolutely perfect. Put front panel back on. No weird noises and drum empties perfectly every time. My wife is so pleased she's doing more loads.

Lid closes, switch wouldn't turn on machine.

  • Customer: Kenneth from Wilmington, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 24 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
Used toothpick for a year to push switch acctuator far enough to engage switch. Broke my foot and found time to order part thru PartSelect. Went from cast to boot and received part 2 days after ordered. Had difficulty with foot and getting to switch. Went back into PartSelect and figured out how to dis-assemmble panels thru the diagrams. Time on my job doesn't, just that their service and expertise that is available to everyone is there to use. Broken bones or not, I will always get my parts and advice from PartSelect. Thanks to PartSelect.

Water inflow did not stop = flooded utility room

  • Customer: Kevin from Chico, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 19 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Cleaned up a wet utility room floor!

Unplugged power cord to the machine and turned off hot and cold water at the stop valves.
Removed the top machine screw that holds the metal panel with the valve attached (on the rear of the machine where hoses attach), removed it from the machine with valve and hoses attached.
Disconnected both water hoses at the old valve, together with the 1/2" hose to the machine. Mark hot and cold positions.
Moved the electrical contacts one-by-one to the new valve.
Changed the old valve for the new valve (one screw attaches to plate).
Connected the inlet hoses and 1/2" hose to the new valve, making sure hot/cold on correct positions.
Replaced plate in the machine and secured with the machine screw.


Agitator action was slow/weak; Bleach tube kinked

  • Customer: Robert from Marlboro, NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 21 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
a) Remove the front panel (use a putty knife to release clips)
b) Fashion a small hook-end out of a coat hanger
c) Install an additional glide spring (2 + 1 = 3) to get extra retraction of vee-belt around drive pulley as follows.
d) Hook end of of the new spring onto rear (back) hole of moving motor mount (observe orientation of existing springs to be sure that you're hooking up spring into hole correctly).
e) Lie on your right side, hold the spring in place with your left hand (go around back of the motor with your left hand).
f) Have someone hold the flashlight as you take a coat hanger and fish for the front end of the spring under the motor glide.
g) With front - end of spring held by coat hanger hook, pull spring towards you and slip spring into front hole of stationary motor mount.
h) Lightly spray in and around glide area with Teflon non-stick dry lube (DuPont or Liquid Wrench dri-lube product line).
Machine agitates like-new now.
Bleach Tube:
a) Remove hose clamps at both ends using a screwdriver.
b) Remove and discard old tube.
c) Slip on the hose clamps and slicker-up the ends of new tube with palmolive liquid detergent and slip onto tub and bleach dispenser.
d)Tighten clamps.
All Instructions for the LAT9416AAE
16-30 of 363