Models > LAT9356AAE > Instructions

LAT9356AAE Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for LAT9356AAE parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the LAT9356AAE
31-45 of 251
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Plastic thing (Fill Injector) that puts water in the washer broke

  • Customer: AMY from Mount Kisco NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Unfortunately, I couldn't find instructions for removing the top for exactly this model. First step was to remove the front panel by removing the two lower screws, grabbing the bottom of the panel, and lifting up until the clips on top of the panel let go. Next was removing from underneath the two screws towards the front that held the top of the washer on. This gives you easy access to the Fill Injector, but if working alone you'll need something to prop up the front of the top lid while you work on it. There is one screw that hold on the Fill Injector assembly (top and bottom). This screw is removed from the top, via the control panel. To get inside the control panel you need to remove the back of the control panel (very easy), just unscrew the 5 screws on the back of it. Then remove the one screw that holds the Fill Injector assembly in place. From under the front panel, use your pliers to remove the hose clamp and then remove the Fill Injector from the hose. ONE IMPORTANT ITEM, YOU'LL DEFINITELY NEED A REPLACEMENT HOSE CLAMP. The one you remove to take off the old, broken fill injector cannot be put back on. Put the new clamp loosely on the hose, then connect the hose to the new Fill Injector Assembly. Put the Fill Injector Assembly in place and use a piece of duct tape to hold it there. Then reinstall the screw that holds it in place from the top, inside the control panel. Reinstall everything in reverse, give it a test and then have a beer. You've just "given it to the man" and saved yourself $100+ on a repair bill.

Machine started making loud squeak, then completely stopped after a couple more cycles.

  • Customer: Robert from Apopka FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I tilted machine onto the front to acces the rear panel. i removed the three screws to expose pump, took of the drive belt located under appliance, removed the three pump screws and removed old defective pump. I installed new pump, put the drive belt back on, reinstalled back panel and screws, hooked the appliance up and started. Been running great ever since. Entire process too about 10 min.

it was leaking underneath the washing machine tub

  • Customer: Jason from Clinton OK
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
That would take forever to write in everything you have to do, but I did go to a website that had the steps you must do to complete the repair. You can google tub seal kit and mounting stem and the brand of your appliance and i'm sure you will come across the steps to complete the repair. I would advise you to first order a spanner wrench it makes the job much easier and you really can't complete the job without it. So do that first and then take the machine apart if you suspect it's a tub seal leak and then order your parts. if i had a spanner wrench available to me from the beginning it would have gone much smoother from the start.

Washer would not engage power when pulling knob to start

  • Customer: George from San Francisco CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnected power to washing machine then took off back panel. Located "Lid switch", disconnected lid switch wires, pushed lid switch toward front of machine to remove.. then replaced with new, reconnected power wire to lid switch, reattached back panel, plugged power back in.

Top auger section won't stay locked together

  • Customer: Manuel from Vacaville CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Ordered a new replacement agitator, removed the old agitator with the loosening of set screw on the base of agitator, which slips over the gear spline and installed the replacement agitator, tighten the set screw with nut driver, OH, you have to use the fabric softener cup, which snaps off the old agitator and install it on the new agitator. Wha-la!

Leaking Tub Seal

  • Customer: jerry from haslet TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
The task to replace the tub seal would have been relatively easy had it not been for the need of a special spanner wrench to remove the nut securing the seal. Instead of purchasing the one time use spanner wrench which was only available on line and would have delayed my repair I elected to cut the putty metal nut off with a cutting dremel tool. This was a delecate process to ensure one did not damage anything else in the process of cutting the nut. Once complete a set screw, pipe wrench and common screwdriver, hammer and tap punch was all that was used. Easy process from removal to installation and the leak was fixed saving significant $$$ over having a "maytag repairman" perform the fix...parts select video helped describe everything and cost while not cheap was significantly less for an adept DIY customer.

No Spinout or regular motor speeds

  • Customer: Jonathan from Park Forest IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
remove back panel 3 phillips and 2 1/4" machine screws. checked lid switch for proper contact. checked timer on the spin cycle in regular wash mode and tested the contacts that were requested per schematic with washing machine. verrified that the timer was the problem, actually if you take the plasic cover off you can see the contactors and if you look for the one that is bad you can verifiy by looking for burned contacts, rember that everything electrical is testable there should be no guessing.
replaced the timer and tested washing machine in regular and passed, re-assembeled back cover.

washer wouldn't let the water spin out!

  • Customer: SHARON from DETROIT MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I was told that it might be a clog in the tube.. we check the tubes that wasn't it Then I Google it and was told it might be the drain pump. I was just glad that Part Select had what I need because my machine is over 20 years old. We change the pump and now I hope I get at least another 20 years out of my machine. I will always use part select to get my parts. Thanks

Stripped leveler screw making impossible to level my washer

  • Customer: Rebecca from Wylie TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Put blocks under the washer where the leveling leg was needed and screwed the part into the washer. Then it was just a matter of moving the washer into place and leveling. Pretty easy.

the motor burnt out

  • Customer: walter from watertown WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
took washer into the garage, removed front cover & disconnected the wiring. Then i removed the motor assembly. Piece of cake to finish job.

Agitator shaft and agitator came up and leaked water

  • Customer: Johnny from Cedarburg WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
lifted washer top, removed front panel, took punch and hammer to loosen collar (right to loosen- left to tighten) removed tub replaced seals and o-ring. then replaced the nylon retaining ring then reassembled. all works well now no leaks. Easy fix saved $500.00

I had water leaking out of the bottom of the washer when it was washing a load of clothes

  • Customer: Paul from Lansdale PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I opened the front of the washer by removing the 2 screws on the bottom front of the washer, then swinging the front upward until it was clear of the hangers at the top. The hose sits right in front. It was cracked where it attaches to the tub. I loosened the hose clamps at the tub & the pump with a nutwrench & removed the old hose. I slid the clamps onto the new hose & put the hose on to the tub & pump. I tightened the clamps, reinstalled the front & was finished.

Machine would shake violently while tub was spinning

  • Customer: Gary from Alhambra CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the supplied directions to remove covers, unbolt tub springs, and expose the area needed to replace the damper pads. I cleaned the area with acetone and applied a rubber adhesive (not supplied). I used tire patch compound because that is what I had on-hand. I positioned the pads and after they had dried 1/2 hour, lubricated them with the supplied grease. I reassembled the washer and it is now smooth and well behaved.

TUB COVER SPLIT AND LEAKING

  • Customer: William from Ambler PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
REMOVED WASHING MACHINE FRONT COVER (2 PHILLIPS SCREWS ON BOTTOM HALF OF PANEL). THEN REMOVED TWO BOLTS THAT HOLD THE TOP IN PLACE. LIFTED HINGED TOP, REMOVED TUB COVER WHICH IS HELD IN PLACE WITH PLASTIC MOUNTING TABS. THAT WAS IT. PUT EVERTHING BACK TOGETHER APPROX. 15 MINUTES.

Washer tub would fill with water when not in use and hot water would fill slowly when in use

  • Customer: David from Universal City TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I turned off the water at the main water inlet. I then removed the hose connections to the valve inlet. I removed the one screw on the plate pulling allowing me to pull the plate out from the washer body. I then removed the wires connected to the old valve placing them on the new valve (so not to be confused). I took off the small hose clamp attached to the valve. I removed the valve from the plate and attached the new valve placing the a new hose lamp on the hose (wires were already attached) screwed back to the plate in the washer body connecting the water lines and turned the water on at the main valve. I did have to run to the hardware store for the small hose clamp but that was my choice to replace the one that was existing. The washer now works like it is new.
All Instructions for the LAT9356AAE
31-45 of 251