KUDU03STSS0 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed the dishwasher from under the counter, disconnected the copper water tubing, placed it upside down, removed the old pump and replaced with new. The only iffy situation is making sure the copper tubing doesn't kink when removing the dishwasher and putting it back into the cabinet. Very simple, my husband can fix anything. Your video was very helpful as well.

Per the instructional video on your website. It was accurate and presented clearly.

I was only able to get the dishwasher partially out from under the counter. I had to reconnect the springs using a big screw driver. I then attached the door portion of the cable to the door and pulled the spring back to connect it. It went OK. I found your video valuable because I knew what I was dealing with and was able to come up with a solution for not pulling the washer completely out

Door balance kit was very easy to repair. Washer was installed incorrectly with water service run through the units frame. Once this issue was addressed, ordering and installation was a piece of cake.

I noticed the top spinner in the top tray. It wouldn't stay when I tried to reattach it. I searched around the Internet using the model number of my dishwasher. I ordered the part which arrived in two days. I removed the top tray and gently pried the piece where the spinner attaches away, took the old pin out, snuck the new pin in there and snapped the spinner in. The problem was that the nipple on the pin was worn away. The spinner was fine but I didn't see an option to just buy the pin. The I st ructions I read said to dismantle the whole works, but I sneaked it in without doing any harm. I hope. Dishwasher works fine.

snapped on new wheel done

Pin for the top spinner broke off. Watched the video on the website and went to fix dishwasher. Found out that I only needed to remove baskets, cover bottom with a towel so screws didn't fall into unreachable areas, then removed one screw on the top. Removed broken pin and installed new spinner and pin. Less than five minutes from a woman who's never done this before. Felt like a pro!! Your easy to use website to find parts and repair video made it possible. Thanks a million!!!

Pulled dishwasher out, laid it down on its back. that made eaiser to get to the motor. Pulled the motor off then put the new motor on.

Just followed the video. Seemed simple enough but the bolt location was different so had to watch the video again paying specific attention to the part where he tells you to use the old bolts to replace the new pulley system. The new pulley system already has a bolt in the top pulley. You will need to old bolt through the bottom pulley. Works great - for now.

I thought it was the control board, but when I replaced it, the problem was not fixed. So I bought the control panel after some additional internet searching on the problem. This was ordered on another site as I couldn't tell on this site what model number went with stainless. It took less time to replace the control panel as I had the earlier experience. Once replace, everything went back to normal operation.

Remove kick panel, shut the water off, loosen/remove the water supply line, remove screws securing cabinet into counter, slide out, replace the door balances and springs on both sides, re assemle as removed, done deal! Door closes better than when it was new!

fOLLOW THE VIDEO AND THE REPAIR GOES VERY WELL. You have a fantastic web site to diagnose the problem and fix it.

Unscrewed the old and attached AND SCREWED IN THE NEW.

After watching the DIY video, I purchased the Door Balance Link Kit and did the repair myself. It went almost exactly as the video explained. The only problem was that I had a new tile floor installed AFTER the dishwasher (DW) was installed. First, I removed the kick-plate (the metal "seal" plate and pad on the bottom), the 2 Mounting Bracket Screws from under the counter, and turned off the hot water (shut-off valve located under the sink). I had to tilt the DW forward while lifting it over the 1/4-3/8" difference in floor height in order to slide it out from the cabinet. (This should normally not be an issue.) Once out, I removed the screw from the (link) mount, rotated the mount (bottom half towards the front of the DW) removing it, and unhooked the link from the spring (attached to the frame at the rear). I fed the new link through the new mount before attaching the mount to the DW. Next, I gently stretched the spring forward attaching the link to it. I then changed the mount and link on other side. The DW was then pushed back into the cabinet, taking care to keep the insulation in place and not kink or bend any hoses or wires behind it. The Mounting Bracket Screws and kick-plate were then reattached and the water turned back on. The entire operation took less than 30 minutes and probably saved me $150-$200 in service call charges.

The plastic hook on the door link kits for these dishwashers don't last very long. I don't know if it's bad plastic, bad design, or both, but I've replaced these three times now. The hook on the pulley side snaps and you get the symptoms described above. Others have done a good job describing how to do this repair. The only thing I'd add is that if this happens again I am going to have a replacement hook made out of metal at an online fabricator. The plastic is just not a good solution for that part. If this is your first time repairing this and only one side is broken, do yourself a favor and replace both sides now--the other side will be breaking soon :) And keep the part number somewhere handy--- you will need it again in a couple of years.