Models > KUDS25SHWH1 > Instructions

KUDS25SHWH1 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for KUDS25SHWH1 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the KUDS25SHWH1
61-75 of 649
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retainer nut split

  • Customer: Carol from Wolverine MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Plastic parts on this Kitchenaid dishwasher suffer repeat wear problems from heat and chemical detergents. The retainer nut on the bottom wash arm split horizontally int the thread area, and during operation, the wash arm would rise up and hit the bottom of the lower basket so there was a worn groove in the wing on top of the nut and the dishes weren't getting very clean. Simple replacement, just screw the nut down. Also decided to replace the bearing ring right under the wash arm because it was getting pasted with white crust-like material from hard water and chemical detergent residues. I've dealt with PartSelect twice now, and they are fast and efficient. The online parts breakdowns are easy to follow.

The original rinse cap fell of and was damaged by heat

  • Customer: ELIZABETH from PEARL MS
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
We couldn't find the model # on the web site and took a chance ordering the rinse cap for other models of that brand. When it arrived within a few days,it was simply a matter of pushing the new rinse cap into position. The replacement was of higher quality than the original. Although the price seemed a little high, it enabled me to use a rinse again. We are very pleased.

Plastic handle broke

  • Customer: Paul from Ashburn VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Removed inside cover and inserted new handle on two tabs and attached latch. Slightly tricky to get 3 pieces in place and reattach cover without them moving.

Thermal fuse blew

  • Customer: Mike from Unionville CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I had replaced the control board a month or two earlier. Then smelled plastic burning. I noticed the Sta-con connecters in the molex plug had burned - that's what took out the control board. The fuse assembly came with new connectors - so you know this is a known problem with the machine. If you're handy you can buy the thermal fuse from Newark for $0.88 and replace it by soldering - but you need to replace the sta-cons. They corrode and the bad connection causes the heat making the thermal trip.

worn out lower dishrack

  • Customer: D. from KOKOMO IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I read the instuctions and snapped it together just following the pictures...reading only when the picture was not enough information for me. My husband thought I pulled it out of the box already put togethr, he did not know I put it together.

Dishwasher often didn't fill with water.

  • Customer: Lorrin from Longview WA
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Remove power, either unplug the unit or locate and turn off the circuit breaker. There is power under the dishwasher even if it is not running.

Use the nut driver to remove both lower panels to gain access to the bottom of the dishwasher.

I suspected the overflow switch and used the ohm meter to discover the resistance of the switch, with no water in the washer, measured anywhere from a couple of ohms to 40 ohms or more and of course it should be less than one ohm.

There was no sign of any leakage or other problem so I wanted to keep the job simple and replace only the actual micro switch.

Problem! The micro switch is mounted on the back side of the float stem kit and visibility is severely limited. About all you can see are the switch terminals and the head of the phillips screw that holds the microswitch on the rest of the float stem kit.. You'll definitely need a small mirror.

I first pulled the wires from the microswitch terminals. Then I used a small phillips screw driver to remove the screw holding the switch and the first thing that happened is the small white float lever fell out. (I didn't know that it was even there because of the poor visibility. Ugly surprise!)

I spent 1/2 hour or more studying how the lever went in and found that the cirular end of the lever fits into a circular depression in the assembly body and was HELD IN BY THE SWITCH. (Now it's really getting ugly!)

The problem then is how to get the lever back in place and have it stay there while placing the micro switch back in place. There just isn't any easy way to do that. If only the switch and lever were one piece it would have been so simple.

Aha!

I placed and aligned both the lever and the microswitch on the float assembly body that I received. Using a couple of small pieces of electricians tape I taped the microswitch and lever together so they were one piece. Then I carefully (very carefully) removed the switch/lever
"assembly" that I made and eased it into position onto back side of the dishwasher float stem assembly body. When the switch is almost in place there is just barely room to get the tip of your finger in there and seat the rounded end of the lever into the depression. After seating the lever, carefully replace and tighten the phillips screw holding the switch in place. Then remove the electricians tape.

Replace the wires on the micro switch terminals, replace the front panels, put your tools away, and by golly, you're done.

This repair is not for the faint-hearted nor for those with fat fingers or who tend to be klutsy. It took me three or four attemps and a couple of hours to get the microswitch and float lever into place. But I think it was worth it as I didn't have to remove the dishwasher, play with water lines, or remove the full float assembly thus avoiding creating other problems that might likely result in water leaks and additional repairs..

If you decide to try this repair, good luck. It can be done but it is tough.

The plastic disc which sprays the jet has snapped off. This is the disk with swirl pattern on the back face.

  • Customer: Mehdi from Cary NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
1) Removed the two white clips from the left and righ hand side of the top tray roller rail. this allows the tray to be completely removed and ease access to the washer assembly. The clipe looks like the letter "k", so you will need to close the "k" to almost straight line in order to get it through the hole.

2) Put a sheet or a towel at the bottom of the machine, just incase you drop the two small cross head screws. This prevents the screws from falling to the bottom of the machine.

3) Remove the screws. At this time the washer assembly will/should slip out very easily. very little force is required to pull the assmbely out.

4) Slip on the new washer assembly and put the screws back in place. Tighten screws, Be careful not over tighten the screw as you may crack the plastic flange.

Note: My machine is an older model, so the washer assembly had two screw fixing. The new assembly only had one hole. Although one fixing appeared to be sufficient, I decided to drill a hole on the other side and this worked fine.

5) Replace the top tray, taking some care to ensure rollers are correctly located within the rails. Then replace the clips and job's complete.

Dishwasher was leaking

  • Customer: John from Yakima WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the old parts, Cleaned the area around the gasket and put in the new. Worked great the first time.

Broken clips

  • Customer: Ray from San Rafael CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
There were two somewhat difficult parts: identifying the correct clip (first time I got it wrong and had to reorder), and attaching the new clips in the proper orientation without breaking them.

The correct clips have a snap-in feature to hold a wire fence upright. Two tines of the fence snap into the clip, which attaches to the lateral wires in the upper basket.

To remove the broken clips, I pressed the flat blade of a large screwdriver against the open side of each, noting which wire each came from. I measured the distance between the two wires for the next step.

To install the new clips, I first attached them to the moveable fence. This is because (1) the clip has extremely complex geometery and it took a while to figure how it should be installed (I had no model because the old clips were completely destroyed) and (2) the notch for the fence is quite rigid on one side, and quite delicate on the other, and it took a bit of force to get the the thick bottom wire of the fence to seat properly without breaking the delicate part of the clip. There is no way to put the fence into the clip if you have first installed it onto the wire basket without breaking the clip because the beefy side is not flexible. I used the flat blade of the screwdriver on the beefy side and pinched the bottom of the fence into it with my thumb.

Each clip must straddle one of the tines of the fence, so the tine can swivel into the upper part of the clip to stand upright. This is definitiely a spatial relationship challenge and it took a few minutes of trial, error, and visualization to figure out. You must also be sure that the tines you select correspond to the distance between the two locations on the wire basket where they will attach.

Once the clips were on the fence, I rotated the fence so that the tines locked. Then I attached the clips to the basket, using the flat of the screwdriver blade and a steady pressure to snap it on.

Poor washing - water not coming out of jets at full power

  • Customer: Stanley from West Sand Lake NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Bottom wash arm bearing and seal were severely worn and leaking. Replaced in about one minute with new parts from PartSelect.com, and took the opportunity to clean out the arm -- stringy, fibrous matter was clogging two jets.

Top arm horizontal rubber supply tube was disintegrating and leaked. Replace with Spray Arm Kit -- this took maybe two minutes!

Lastly, two to of the upper right-rear folding rack tine clips were broken -- replacement was difficult as the old, broken clips were very stiff and came off only after much physical persuasion! New clips were installed easitly -- in a "snap". Time ~ 5 minutes.

Best of all, the new parts were delivered to my home within 36 hours of my internet order. I thought the prices were fair, too. Thanks.

rotating water disperser on bottom broke off

  • Customer: James from Canterbury NH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the rest of the broken retainer plug. Part number was on the top of the plug. Went to Partselect.com looked up the part and ordered it. The right part (important) arrived in a few days. I put the arm back in place, screwed in the new retainer plug and we were back in business. Cost of part about $5.00. Price of not having to share in cleaning the dishes, priceless. Any future problems with any of my appliances, this is the first place I'll look for the needed part.

Water leak at water inlet to tub

  • Customer: William from Austin TX
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Contrary to info on your website, the bezel is removed by turning it counterclockwise. This misinformation wasted a lot of time. The bezel is difficult to turn. I used a home-built wrench: Drive two screws spaced 3 inches apart through a stick of wood, projecting 5/8 inch. Engage the screws in the slot in the bezel and in the grill, and turn CCW. I cleaned the deposits from the surface where the gasket seals with white vinegar. New gasket and bezel fixed the problem.

dishwasher no thoroughly cleaning

  • Customer: Daniel from Chestertown MD
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
unscrewed sprayarm, removed bearing and seal, used PartSelect pic and description schematic to identify part numbers then placed order. Parts arrived in two or three days.

Washer was not agitating

  • Customer: Rod from Sisters OR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the washer from the cabinet, although the repair kit could have been replaced without this step. However, it still made it easier. Removed the spray arm assembly and the top cover to the motor. I had to block the motor to keep it from turning while I unscrewed part number 11. The rest was very self explanatory. The "impeller" was seized onto the motor shaft (20 years old) so I had to use a chisel to break what remained off, then clean some corrosion from the shaft. The repair kit worked and the pictorial parts diagram that came with the kit was very clear. Bottom line: "Easy peasy, lemon squeezy!" Great web site for diagnosis and parts diagrams!

Door lower seal

  • Customer: kate from darien AL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Just removed old seal and put the new on in place no problem
All Instructions for the KUDS25SHWH1
61-75 of 649