KUDS24SEBL4 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Completely removed lower wash arm and replaced bearing ring and seal.

Removed spray arm thumb nut. Removed spray arm. replaced worn and broken earings and re-assembled in reverse order. Would have done the repair a lot sooner if I had known that PartsSelect was just a few miles up the highway.

The plastic parts on this spray arm assembly wear with time and the rotation wobble effect creates a wave action in the pool of water at the bottom of the dishwasher. This waves the water onto the front door and forces a leak outside the unit. Replace the lower arm assembly, washer, bearing and nut. They all wear. Also remember to tighten the screws on top of the pump assembly. They loosen and aid in the wobble. Good Luck!

Disconnect unit and remove from under counter. remove lower spray arm, tip over dishwasher on it's back, diconnect wires from motor , unscrew drain fitting rotate motor mounts to and lift pump and motor assembly up and out from inside the dishwasher. thoughly clean all parts during pump disassembly( under running water and a toothbrush works well) . Looking at a parts diagram,and using your memory from disassembly replace the new seals and put it all back together, with patience you can do anything and use common sense.

Ordered both drain & wash impeller kit and the drain check valve with o-ring. Decided to test the cheaper drain check valve first. Pulled dishwasher out from wall & adjacent cabinetry; removed drain hose from disposer and drained as much water as possible; "jacked" side of dishwasher to gain access to drain hose and drain check valve; used pliers to remove hose clamp; placed flat pan underneath to catch remaining water drainage; unscrewed drain check valve; tested under bathroom faucet--determined faulty; replaced with the new one, restored connections, reset dishwasher in proper location; voila--fixed! Plan to return the unneeded impeller kit.

I removed the screw holding the spray arm to the bracket. I then put on the new bracket and tightened the screw. The bracket just clips on to the top basket of the washer. Easy as pie.

I noticed the upper bushing washer was worn thin. this caused the lower spray arm to rise too high and wobble during all the wash cycles. Also the rotation of the lower spray arm was wearing grooves in the lower bushing.

I removed the retaining nut and simply replaced teh defective parts. While I was at it I figured equal wear might be evident on the upper spray arm so I bought a complete rebuild kit to bring all rotational parts back to new and equal preformance that was achieved by removing the ss screw and removing the upper spray arm, bushing and clip then replacing them in the order of removal. Noticed a huge difference in the quality of the washed dishes!! Thanks Parts Select 100% to yoru company!!

I first removed the wash arm retainer nut then lifted the arm assembly out and replaced the spray arm bearing ring and then set the spray arm back in place and put the wash arm bearing ring in the hole and screwed the wash arm retainer nut back in place. I couldn't believe how much the 2 had worn down. It is working fine. Saved me about a $125.00 service call out here as I live 50 miles from the nearest big town. Not bad for a 68 year old female!!

Replaced lower door seal kit per directions without success. Upon further diagnosis, I noticed the rubber section of the water tube (a seperate part in older models) had melted or burned or tore a ragged strip lengthwise in it. I purchased and installed the manifold spray arm kit ps382824 and because it was inexpensive I also got the wash arm bearing ring ps402231. I replaced all of these parts. . A very simple process if done one piece at a time. This spray arm kit comes with an upper spray arm, a water supply tube, a screw, and two holding clips. After these components were replaced the water no longer leaks. In order of most to least important in my situation. The wash arm bearing had actually worn off the shoulder and looked more like a cylindrical bushing or I than a cross section l. This component and the water tube were the most important parts. The door seal isn't a water proof gasket type of part it's more of a plastic splash shield. Good luck. . It can be done. . And it's worth the money and tme. Overall this is a good unit.

Grinding Noise when running. I was not sure of problem and thought that a new Dishwasher may be needed if motor was the problem. After taking the bottom rack and spray arms out I came across my first problem. I believe it was the impeller design that has a 1in hex nut with a bolt in middle that needed to be removed. I needed a 90 degree 1in wrench to hold impleller while I removed Bolt. Luckly I have a friend that is a mechinist who made me a wrench.
After that the grinding cause was discovered - Broken glass that grinded the cermic shaft that is over motor shaft. I did not small drops of water under motor during grinding due to damaged cermic shaft.
$24 and 2 days later my dishwasher is as good as new. Sugguest you sell a 1in 90 degree hard plastic wrench for holding impeller which bolt is removed.
Thanks
PS. - Best part of your site is Parts detail which was very helpful for me to understand assembly.

After reading the diagrams and other readers' repair stories, I found that the plastic nuts and rings had worn out. The arm-spray wobbled excessively.

I simply twisted off the spray arm bearing ring and removed the other parts. The arm-spray was covered with mineral deposits that cleaning did not remove.

I received my parts overnight and replaced them according to the diagram. It's like having a new dishwasher!

Follow diagram that comes with the repair kit

The part arrived the next day after order was placed. That is an amazing service.
When it arrived I noticed that the new part was re-designed but the dimensions appeared to be identical. Initially it was difficult to snap it in to position but with help of a screw driver it finally snapped in place. After re-installation of the upper wash arm all looked perfect. But the arm would not spin freely. It would bind against the bottom of the upper tray. Finally after about 20 minutes I noticed that the mount was slightly slanted to one side. This was not immediately apparent unless you look carefully. Further I noticed that the bottom of the upper tray was protruding lower on the right side. Finally I realized why the mount was slanted to one side. I removed the mount and turned it 180 deg.. Bingo all fits and works perfectly. I could have avoided the problems if an orientation directions were included with the mount. I suspect that a less technical individual would likely not figure it out.

Assembled the lower dishrack as per the instructions provided and installed in the dishwasher.
The upper rack came with some spare parts but no instructions and I could not figure out what they were for or where they went so they remained just that, spare parts.

I had a broken latch on my dispenser, so had to replace the entire assembly. This is an easy repair, as the other posts have indicated. You do, however, really need a nutdriver. I undertook this project without a nutdriver and not only did it take ten times longer than it should've, but the dispenser leaked after my first attempt because I could not get the dispenser screwed in good and tight. All worked perfectly once I got the right tool, duh. The repair is done as other posters have indicated: unplug the machine, remove outer panel(s), remove six mounting screws, detach the wires attaching to the assembly, and reattach them to the new piece. **One thing not noted in other reports: there is a white plastic electrical connection on the lower right of the dispenser assembly. Mine had red wires attaching to it. To remove this from the old dispenser, you pull it straight out toward you, like a drawer from a dresser, and slot it into the new dispenser the same way. It would be quite easy to break this piece trying to get it out any other way, so use some caution.