Models > KUDS01FLSS6 > Instructions

KUDS01FLSS6 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for KUDS01FLSS6 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the KUDS01FLSS6
91-105 of 767
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dishwasher would not work

  • Customer: gregory from winston salem NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
First- unplug dishwasher.

I replace the circuit board by removing the 6 top screws on the door, I needed to gain access to the inside of the door. unplugged the wiring harness, removed old board, replaced with new and connected the harness correctly, reattached the screws.

Plugged the dishwasher back up to the power and it now works!

Old upper wash arm fell off

  • Customer: David from Chicago IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
removed old fastener part (broken) from bracket

placed new fastener above bracket

aligned spray arm below bracket

snapped lower fastener part into place

couldnt be easier so long as you have two capable hands and eyesight

front seal on the old pump failed causing the front bearing to get wet repeatedly and fail

  • Customer: lisa from columbus NE
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Removed required hardware and dishwasher from undercounter mount. Turned dishwasher on its front and removed the old motor. Installed the new motor and tested for function. Installed once test was successful.

bones inside locked motor up and burned it out

  • Customer: Dawn from New Richmond WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
disconect water supply and drain hose, unscrew 2 screws hoding front of dishwasher to countertop, slide dischwasher out so you can tip on its door and remove 1 screw hidden behind plastic shield and pull motor out install in reverse order.

Unit started only intermittently and then finally fail to start at all.

  • Customer: Joseph from Gilroy CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged unit from power source.Removed the screws fastening the interior panel to the door. Removed latch assembly from the door after disconnecting two wires to the microswitch. Removed microswitch from the latch assembly, then installed same microswitch in new latch assembly. Re-connected wires and re-installed latch assembly. Re-installed interior panel with screws. Re-connected unit to power source. Tested unit. Has started reliably ever since.

Latch on dispenser cracked so it did not close properly.

  • Customer: Robert from Califon NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Took me longer to find my tools than to do the repair. DId have to call the PartSelect 800 # while making repair but woman there read to me a note in their system about a redesign of the replacement part that explained exactly my question. She was VERY helpful. I will not be calling the appliance repairman again!

Dishwasher would not start

  • Customer: James from Norwich CT
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Upon replacing the circuit card I found that one of the connectors was burnt. I fixed the connector and installed the new card, but it itermittantly still does not work. I think that the micro switch may be defective.

blinking light above cancel button

  • Customer: Damion from Plant City FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the electronic control board,

Pulverized food particles were being left on the dishes in the top rack

  • Customer: nanette from Bronx NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
FIRST I TURNED OFF THE POWER GOING TO THE MACHINE!!!! Then I removed the top rack by removing the (2) end caps on the front of the rack glides first then lifting the rack upwards and out. Next I removed the bottom rack which slid out easily. I then removed the lower spray arm that was held in place by the plastic turn-screw portion of the lower spray arm support/hub. I turned the screw a few times and the spray arm was released. I then released the feed tube assembly that was held in place by (2) clips; one clip was on the back panel of the tub (above the probe area) and the other clip was on the top panel of the tub (before the upper arm spray). Then I turned the entire tube feed assembly a quarter turn to the right so that it was possible to separate/unsnap it from the feed cap on the bottom. After the feed tube was moved away I was able to access all (4) screws that holds the accumulator in place. I used an allen wrench to remove those. After the accumulator was removed I saw two screws that was holding the 2-part protective cover of the chopper assembly. The small cover came out easily, the round cover took a little jiggling and fussing until I figured out how to pop it out. The chopper was revealed when the cover came off and I found it to be very warn and a bit bent. I pulled it out by pulling it upwards and forward towards me. At this time I also removed the valve check. To my surprise it didn't look like the one that I bougth to replace it. It was missing the round disk portion. I fished around thinking it may have somehow fallen off, but I didn't find anything. I put the new one in, disk-side down. I then put the chopper assembly in place and put everything back together again. I'm not 100% sure that it is completely back to normal. It seems to leave significantly less debris than before, but I noticed that there is more water on the bottom of the basin now. So it may not have been my only problem. If anyone has experienced the same thing I would really like to know

Dishwasher would not start when Normal was selected. Would run fine if other option selected.

  • Customer: Norman from Weatherford TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I began by opening the door to the dishwasher. The front panel on this unit is a custom wood panel held on by six screws. I removed the screws and the front panel. Then I unscrewed the two remaining screws holding the control panel onto the door. I also removed the two screws holding the door latch in position. With all screws removed the control panel simply slid off the top of the door. Inside the control panel, I used a small screw drive to pry the retainer clips back from the edge of the electronic control board. The control panel then snaps out. I disconnected the ribbon cable from both boards and reinstalled the new ribbon cable. I then reattached the ribbon cable to the new electronic control board and snapped the new control board into place. I reinstalled the control panel and tested the "Normal" position to insure the dishwasher would respond appropriately. After checking for proper operation, I reinstalled all screws,including the door latch and the front cover. Operation complete.

Lower spray arm seal replacement

  • Customer: Fred from Grafton OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Remove upper tray and spray arm. Remove two screws retaining pipe for upper spray arm and overhead. Unscrew retainer on top of lower spray arm and remove. Gently rotate the upper feed pipe clockwise until pipe can be removed from lower pipe. You may then remove the lower pipe and bearing housing where the seal is. Reverse order for reassembly. I also replaced upper spray arm bushing. Very simple, remove one screw and the arm will come out.

Door would not remain closed stopping the cycle.

  • Customer: David from New Baltimore MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
After replacing the door latch which was not faulty I learned fron a local appliance repair company the door was distorted as a result of an earlier failure of the cable assembly breaking. The door opened with such great force hiting my leg and apparently distorted the door or machine frame. The fix was to bundle a towel and place it between the door and dishwasher sides, one at a time, and forcing the door in a closing direction to bend the door and frame. After several attempts the door now closes well and remains shut during the cycle.

the "normal" button cover cracked allowing water to seep in and damage the switch

  • Customer: Edward from Westminster CO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug the dishwasher. Remove the screws holding the stainless lining to the outer door panel. Unplug the various connections. remove the control panel by pushing small plastic cleats outward (they are spring loaded). Remove the printed circuit board by pushing one holding tab to realase then tilting the board out. Remove the ribbon cable by sliding it off the circuit board. Now reverse the process. Attach the ribbon cable to new circuit board, snap in the circuit board to the control panel (ribbon behind), reattach all electrical connectors, reassemble the door "sandwich". Somewhere in there you also need to remove then snap back the door lock assembly. This is a simple repair with no fancy connectors or tools. Repair service wanted $400 plus two service calls (one to diagnose, one to install). My total about $120. I am a klutz re: repairs.

Dishwasher door falls when opened

  • Customer: Mark from Seattle WA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
First, I bought the door balance link to replace the broken links that connect to the springs.

Because I didn't have enough slack to simply pull out the dishwasher far enough to reach the springs, I had to disconnect the water line and electrical wiring.
The only reason my repair took as long as it did was because there was so little room underneath the dishwasher for disconnecting the water line. I had to buy a shorter adjustable wrench. Also, I had leaks after reconnecting the water line. I had to tighten the compression nut as far as it would go. The nut wrapped around a white substance that had been applied to the threads (I believe this is called pipe tape), which did the trick for sealing the leak.

The repair was a complete success! The parts arrived fast and the information from other customers on the the PartsSelect website was invaluable.

Factory crimped end of link cord pulled out of plastic fastner that hooks on door.

  • Customer: Scott from Miami FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Removed 2 screws that fasten dishwasher to underside of countertop. Pulled dishwasher out from under the countertop for access to sides. Hooked link on door, threaded cord around 2 wheels, hooked spring to back of dishwasher, stretched spring and hooked to eye on end of link cord. I found it very difficult to hook spring to link then try and stretch spring to hole at back of dishwasher. Easier to pull spring and link towards each other and connect. Note: This link was actually different from the original. The plastic end that connects to the door actually hits the first wheel when door is closed but it doesn't seem to prevent the door from locking properly (old design was better). However, I shaved this plastic end to provide better clearance.
All Instructions for the KUDS01FLSS6
91-105 of 767