KUDS01FLSS3 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Unplug the dishwasher. Remove the screws holding the stainless lining to the outer door panel. Unplug the various connections. remove the control panel by pushing small plastic cleats outward (they are spring loaded). Remove the printed circuit board by pushing one holding tab to realase then tilting the board out. Remove the ribbon cable by sliding it off the circuit board. Now reverse the process. Attach the ribbon cable to new circuit board, snap in the circuit board to the control panel (ribbon behind), reattach all electrical connectors, reassemble the door "sandwich". Somewhere in there you also need to remove then snap back the door lock assembly. This is a simple repair with no fancy connectors or tools. Repair service wanted $400 plus two service calls (one to diagnose, one to install). My total about $120. I am a klutz re: repairs.

First removed bottom kick plate cover to reveal the Inlet valve. Saw that it was leaking around the plastic around the solenoid. Turned of the water shutoff valve and unplugged the power cord. Unplugged the two wires from the valve and loosened and removed the tubing going into the valve. Removed two screws that hold the valve assembly to the front frame with a nutdriver. Slide assembly to the right and remove from the two slots. Ordered new valve from Partselect and replaced.

it was really easy i removed the lower spray arm then
i removed the four hex head screws that hold on the
fine mesh screen then i pulled out the plastic insert
which exposed the cover to the chopper assembly
removed a smallhex head screw pulled off thecover
and there was the chopper and checkvalve replaced
both with a new one and the dishwasher works like
new thanks a lot im sure a service call would have cost over a hundred dollars

Discovered through internet that it may be a bad chek-valve, Opened washer up and removed inside covers. Actually found that the chopper assembly was bent and non-functional. Ordered new assembly plus ordered a new check valve since the other was 8 years old. replaced both at the same time. Dushwasher works like new once again.

R Draper

If your chopper assembly has a catastrophic failure like mine did, chances are it took out the teeth on the circulation motor as well. This will lead to the teeth on the chopper being destroyed by the impeller as soon as you turn the dishwasher back on. First, follow the instructional video to remove the motor (found on this site on the circulation motor page) and chopper assembly (also found on this site on the chopper assembly page). The impeller is screwed onto the input shaft of the motor, and you must keep it from turning so that you can unscrew the impeller assembly. I removed the back cover of the motor (there are four screws holding it on) and held a flat pry bar on the rotating assembly inside the motor to keep it from turning, then unscrewed the impeller from the shaft. Mine came off very easy, but be careful not to let your pry bar slip or damage the motors internals. After that, install the washer and grommet from the impeller seal kit on to the impeller, and screw it back on while keeping the motor from turning with your pry bar. Lastly, reinstall the motor and chopper assembly per the aforementioned instructional videos. The whole thing took around an hour to do, and it is much cheaper than replacing the entire circulation motor.

Just had to transfer all the kit parts from the old rack to the new one.
It was important to leave one side of the kit parts(the wheel and other plastic pieces) on the old one while transferring the other side of the kit parts to the new rack so that I had a visual reference for placement and orientation of the parts on the new rack.

FIRST I TURNED OFF THE POWER GOING TO THE MACHINE!!!! Then I removed the top rack by removing the (2) end caps on the front of the rack glides first then lifting the rack upwards and out. Next I removed the bottom rack which slid out easily. I then removed the lower spray arm that was held in place by the plastic turn-screw portion of the lower spray arm support/hub. I turned the screw a few times and the spray arm was released. I then released the feed tube assembly that was held in place by (2) clips; one clip was on the back panel of the tub (above the probe area) and the other clip was on the top panel of the tub (before the upper arm spray). Then I turned the entire tube feed assembly a quarter turn to the right so that it was possible to separate/unsnap it from the feed cap on the bottom. After the feed tube was moved away I was able to access all (4) screws that holds the accumulator in place. I used an allen wrench to remove those. After the accumulator was removed I saw two screws that was holding the 2-part protective cover of the chopper assembly. The small cover came out easily, the round cover took a little jiggling and fussing until I figured out how to pop it out. The chopper was revealed when the cover came off and I found it to be very warn and a bit bent. I pulled it out by pulling it upwards and forward towards me. At this time I also removed the valve check. To my surprise it didn't look like the one that I bougth to replace it. It was missing the round disk portion. I fished around thinking it may have somehow fallen off, but I didn't find anything. I put the new one in, disk-side down. I then put the chopper assembly in place and put everything back together again. I'm not 100% sure that it is completely back to normal. It seems to leave significantly less debris than before, but I noticed that there is more water on the bottom of the basin now. So it may not have been my only problem. If anyone has experienced the same thing I would really like to know

First changed motherboard and door switch, which didn't fix the problem. Inspected door latch and saw that one of the tabs was broken. Replaced latch and problem solved.

I followed the YouTube video exactly and it went very well

Thanks to info on this website, I learned that the strike plate can cause this problem. The strike plate is like a super large paper clip that can easily become bent out of shape in two places. When the piece that slides into the door switch is bent, the problem is visible, and the strike plate can be adjusted by hand. However, when the piece under the counter is bent, the problem is not visible, and contact is not made. Installing the new part is a snap. After pulling the dishwasher out from under the counter a few inches, the old strike plate is removed by hand, and the new one slips right in.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Popped the old housing apart with screw driver, saving internal part, installed part into new housing, placed in posistion, installed two new screws and it worked like charmed. So simple, I have ordered 2nd part to replace opposite side which is not yet broken. Thanks to the terrific phone assistant who convinced me it would work and not have to replace the entire rack which was suggested by a repair man. . . . . . Many thanks! ! ! !

I simply pulled the top rack out as far as it would go, reached in and gently bent supply arm down so I could get the snap button (male end) in from the top. The female end and the wash arm then just snapped up into the male end. It took less than a minute. I probably saved about $75 doing this myself.

Replaced the pump drain as one complete assembly. Couldn't do it from under the front panel as there is a small lug that you have to depress on the top of the assembly before you can twist the assembly counter-clockwise by hand. I tried but I couln't get the leverage. Had to take dishwasher out from under the unit and tip it on its side. The rest was very straightforward. If you can remove the dishwasher from under the unit easily I would suggest you don't even bother trying to change the pump drain while the dishwasher is in place. It's not worth the hassle.

You need to pull the unit out to get access to the spring connected to the rear leg frame. Use the everything in the kit. The rollers are upgraded and will guid the cable better.