Models > KUDS01FLSS3 > Instructions

KUDS01FLSS3 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for KUDS01FLSS3 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the KUDS01FLSS3
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Leakage along bottom of door panel during wash/rinse

  • Customer: Carl from North Haven CT
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
The air inlet strip has a flap and two smaller side flaps that seal the bottom of the inner door to the bottom pan that hold the water. The flaps don't form a watertight seal as they only serve to prevent the water surging during wash and rinse cycles from splashing out of the bottom pan onto the floor under the door. What I learned after dismantling the door is that the problem I was having with water dripping from the bottom of the bottom of the outer door was being caused by a loose upper round louvered vent and not he lower vent strip. If the lower vent strip were the problem, water would leak from the front lip of the bottom pan, which is located well behind the face of the front door panel.

Here's my recommendation on the lower vent srtip repair. Turn off the power to the unit at you breaker panel. The air inlet strip is fastened to the backside of the inner stainleess steel door panel. To access the screws the outer door panel must be removed. Open the door and remove the six torx head screws that fasten the outer door panel to the stainless steel inner door. Don't remove the two torx screws top dead center as they hold the door latch. After removing the screws, raise the door up to the nearly closed position. Lift up the outer door panel handle and door bottom to disengage the outer panel from the inner stainless door. The next part is a little tricky since the vent strip hex head screws are at he bottom of the stainless door panel, facing out with the door closed. The lip of the bottom stainless pan is high enough to make it a tight fit to access the screws. There is also a steel bracket that is a door stiffener and holds electrical wiring. I found removing the bracket held by a 1/4" hex head screw on each side made access to the vent strip scews easier. Lay flat on the floor. With a 3/16" nutdriver or socket wrench each of the five vent strip screws can be removed. It's a tight fit between the bottom lip and door bottom, but it can be done. Remove the old vent strip and attach the new one. Make sure it fits snugly into the slot. Best to have an extra pair of hands at this point to hold the stip securely in place while screws are reinserted from the opposite side. Reassemble everything in reverse order.

It was when I had the outer door panel off that I noticed my problem was water getting past the upper round louver vent seal and thus running down the inside of the outer panel. Simple fix was to remove and clean the scale residue from the parts and door. Then reassemble the vent and twitst tighten the vent to compress the rubber seal on the inside face of the door.

Door pops open easily

  • Customer: Martin from Raleigh NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 19 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
We have been living with this problem for a couple of years. My wife resorted to leaning a chair with a bag of potatoes against the door. As time went on, she had to use heaver and heaver potatoes. Soon, nothing would hold the door shut. As a last resort (after calling Kitchen Aid and finding out my extended warranty that was paid for 5 years wouldn't cover the repair due to some technicality), I decided to try and replace all three items that could contribute to the door not staying shut. The Strike Plate, Door Latch and Door Seal. Parts were easy to find on the web site and delivered from PartSelect in record time. The installation was fairly easy. I loosened the star head screws holding the Stainless outer front panel to the inner panel. These are located all around the inside of the door. The Stainless front panel then separated a bit, like a "V". I didn't completely remove the front panel as there seemed to be some wires connected that I didn't want to mess with. So I just tilted it forward and reached inside to remove the 2 screws holding the door latch. Replaced it and the door seal. Removing the strike plate required slipping a knife under the plate and releasing the spring prongs from he sides. It all seemed very intuitive. Even though we were expecting to be dishwasher shopping the next day - The door stayed shut and has worked great now for a month.

existing silverware basket got holes in the bottom allowing silverware to fall through

  • Customer: Mitchell from Lake Forest IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
I'm really handy, but this one was a no-brainer. Lift the damaged silverware basket out of the dishwasher and place the brand new one back in its place. It took more time relishing the new basket and how brand new it looked then the actual repair took.

Plastic clasp on door spring broke

  • Customer: Stephen from Galt CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled dishwasher out from under counter. Relaced cord with plastic hook attaching spring to door. Very easy.

Very impressed with Full schematic of dishwasher made it easy to select part.

Delivered in 1 day. Fantastic. Highly recommend

dishwasher display would not power up nor turn appliance on.

  • Customer: Jane from Carson City NV
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Following advice given on website by previous customers I was able to remove 6 tork screws and check the fuse which was okay. Proceeded to remove the control board and found significant burning on the bottom side. Ordered a new board online Sunday night, shipped Monday by two day Fed Ex, arrived Weds. morning and installed it in less than 10 minutes. Fair price, excellent service and shipping. Thank you and I would buy from you again.

Removed & Replaced Detergent Dispenser

  • Customer: Raymond from Lancaster CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Via your web-site I was able to download the step-by-step screen-shot pictures. I was really surprised on how easy the detailed photo screen shots made the repair really easy! Thanks for making this repair a piece of cake. If I should ever need additional parts for any of my home appliances I will certainly order my parts through PartSelect.

Dishes would not clean

  • Customer: Kathryn from Gordon NE
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 16 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Checked grinder and cleaned it several times, adjusted blades. Dishes would be clean for approx. 6 cycles, then would not clean. Placed dishwasher on its front and removed the motor. Removed grinder and impeller which I found to be worn so that the blades would not turn on the grinder which caused it to collect food particles. The impeller locks in easily.

The nylon cord broke on one side of the door.

  • Customer: Hank from Salado TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 15 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Ordered the parts on your site since I could find a parts schematic that really helped. I had to move the unit out and replace the spring on one side. We replaced both nylon cords since the other was showing a little wear. Received the parts quickly and made the repair the same day.

Water leak / minor hard to find

  • Customer: Gus from hayward CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Wrench set
  • 15 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
First: Turn power to the Dish washer OFF, then remove the two panels at the bottom of the dishwasher.
Two: remove the Door face panel for easier access to the inlet-Valve.
Three: remove screw that holds Inlet-valve bracket.
Four: slide Inlet valve bracket left and back to get out of slots.
Five: Holding the Inlet-valve forward loosen and remove water line (copper tube nut / pressure fitting).
Six: Remove two wire clips
Seven: Remove platics hose (Spring Clamp)
Replace Inlet-Valve and reverse process///

No power

  • Customer: Scott from Chisago City MN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced electronic control panel first which had an obvious defect (burned terminal). Still no power. Replaced fuse and works fine now. Took lots of reading to find out the dishwasher had a replacable fuse. Even the appliance store didn't know.

Machine was not cleaning properly. insufficient water to the top shelf

  • Customer: John from Rockport ME
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
I cleaned the chopper and screen a few times and it continued to get blocked after a couple of cycles. Replaced the chopper assembly and now it works find.

Stopped Running,Will Not Start, and Clean LED Blinks 7 times then repeats

  • Customer: Deb from LaPorte IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 14 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Got Maintenance Flyer out an read about problem
Removed access plate
Disconnectd water and drain
Removed anchor screws
Pulled unit out and disconnedted from Electric
Flipped on it's back
Ohmed out all heat related items and found discrepency with Thermisitor resistance
Ordered and received Part
Changed out Thermisitor
Checked wiring to Heater and replaced connections
Hooked electric up
Ran Diognostics per Maintenance flyer and cleared fault
Hooked back up and ran like a champ

The reason it took so long is because I put the old thermisitor back in and tryed to run the diognostics just to make sure that was the problem

No heat in wash/dry cycles

  • Customer: Greg from St. Peters MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Heating element came with a new control board that modified the power and some cycle timing. Replacing the board required removing 6 torx screws and half a dozen connectors. Replacing the heating element was likewise very simple, requiring on the removal of two spade connectors and two retaining nuts. Start-to-finish was only 15 minutes.

As usual, Parts Select sent the correct parts, and they arrived very quickly!

Water pump motor was making a grinding noise

  • Customer: Glenn from Southlake TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I had a repair guide for my dishwasher which helped. First I removed the water distribution system inside the dishwasher and then removed the door panel. Next I removed the front bottom access panel. I placed a pan under the pump and hoses to catch water when I removed the outlet hose. Very important here! One must remove the pressure switch from the outlet port or else you can't get the pump clear of the washer tub. Next I removed the drain pump by releasing the catch and turning the pump counter clockwise. Now for one of the hard steps. I had to remove three pins which hold the pump assy to the wash tub. Two of them are out of sight so you have to weave you hand past all the hardware and "feel" for the back two. At this point the pump assy just lifts out. Remove the motor /pump by removing one bolt and turning it counter clockwise and withdrawing. I put the new one in. Don't forget to put the pump screen in as I missed this and had to redo the job. Reverse all the previous steps being careful to keep the motor guard out of the pump seal area. Use lots of silicon seal grease and check for leaks on first power up. It took me a couple of adjustments to get a leak-free seal.

Detergent / Rinse Dispenser did not function. Detergent door would not close

  • Customer: Pamela from Saint Peters MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Replacing the actual part was easy. Getting to it was the slightly difficult part. Here's how it went:
Remove the torex type screws surrounding the inner door - this was the easiest part. The screws came right out, but be careful. Removing the screws near the top (was controls) part will release the seaparate top part. Once you do that, it's only held by wiring, and you don't want that to break, so treat this part with care.
Remove the bolt screws holding the outer door to the inner door - so the inner white door containing the dispenser to be replaced, and the outer door separate, but are held together by these bolt screws. You need to remove these to separate the doors further giving you easier access to the dispenser. Some of these bolt screws were in challenging positions to reach.
Disconnect dispenser wiring and replace part - Remember where the wires go, so mark them before removing them. The part is held in by 6 bolt screws. Once removed, the part easily came out. Pop the new one in, screw the bolts in, plug the wiring back up.
Put all parts mentioned previously back together.

Now even though we gave the correct model # of our unit, the part sent did not match 100% what we replaced. There was an extra wire plugged to ours. The connector to plug it to does not exist on the new part. My assumption is this wire is for detection of rinse agent (illuminates a ligth on the front panel if empty) - so we just left this unplugged. The new part has a manual, visual gauge on it anyway which I prefer, so this was not a big deal. This is just warning for others that do this kind of thing.

All in all, it was a well worth it repair. $50 as opposed to $500 for a new unit and installation. We will definitely be looking to this site again for items we feel can be repaired. THANK YOU!
All Instructions for the KUDS01FLSS3
31-45 of 741