KUDS01FLSS2 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Actually, I asked a handyman who was at my home to do it. Since the parts aren't labelled, there are no directions or graphics for installation and I'm not mechanically intuitive I tried fitting the parts together (outside the dishwasher). I put the small tack into its place and couldn't get it out. Using a pair of pliers I got it out but broke the two small parts. I ordered the part again and got it a day later. (Both times the package arrived very quickly.) When my handyman showed me it was actually pretty easy. I didn't realize the sheath that the arm fits into is mobile--even though several other people's installation instructions say it very clearly. I was envisioning sticking the tack or pin UP into the arm. It's the other way around. First, you pull down the sheath or whatever you call the piece that's against the top surface of the dishwasher. Second, you put the tack, point down, through the hole (facing into the dishwasher). Third, you put the second smallest piece through the hole in the arm from the side with the divots or vents. Finally, you snap the arm into place against the tack, writing side up, divot side down. It's smart to put a towel in the dishwasher so you don't drop either small part into the works.

Watched the partselect video... but there is an error. The dishwasher had a foam core glued between the stainless door and door panel that wasn't shown in the video. After removing the six screws from the inside of the door, a hairdryer was used on the door panel to release it from the foam core. Then a cutout was carefully made in the foam over the dispenser. After replacement of the dispenser, the cutout foam was glued back into the foam core, and the panel was replaced with the six screws.

We bought this new in 2003. Over time the control panel plastic that covered the switches had broken down. Also the soap dispenser door would not stay closed all the time. the little tab that kept it closed had worn. So when the door string broke I just decided to fix all the problems. I am 73 and found the hardest thing was climbing into the cabinet under the sink to disconnect the dw from the water and overflow tube. Once out the "remove & replace" work went pretty well. I replaced the door balance link kit, one balance spring, the soap dispenser and the control panel. Got practically a new unit for under 200 bucks. Glad I did it and my wife loves me.

I read information on this website about the function of the high limit thermostat. I found that it was the problem by disconnecting the two wires on the thermostat and straight wiring to bypass it. This allowed the machine to work properly so I ordered the high limit thermostat. To replace the part I used a screwdriver to remove the instrument panel and replaced the high limit thermostat by disconnecting the two wires from the old thermostat and connecting the wires to the new thermostat. I then replaced the instrument panel. My machine is working properly again..

First I shut off the power and the water then I disconnected the drain hose. Then I removed the dishwasher from under the counter and turned it up side down. I remover the pump retaining screw turned the pump, removed it. installed the new pump reinstalled the retaining screw. and reinstalled the dishwasher under the counter. I reconnected the drain and water then turned on the power. the dishwasher is working great. Thanks PartSelect for the fast delivery and the right part.

Went on line for trouble shooting, seen there were several like issues of the same with the most common being the fuse. Parts select had videos on repairs for this so I watched this then ordered the part which got there quicker than a Jimmy Johns sub.....removed the 8 screws in the door, they sent easy instructions had it done in less than 15 minutes....plugged washer in ran like new.....I will look forward to getting part from this company in the future

Removed both baskets. Then removed 1 Phillips screw for upper rack water supply. Unscrew lower washer arm. Twist lower water supply clockwise to disengage from upper piece and from retainers. Remove 4 torx head screws and remove strainer assy. Remove 1 torx head screw from chopper cover and pull out chopper cover.. Pulled up on chopper screen and removed all broken pieces. Pulled on chopper itself to load the spring and put chopper in place. Make sure it goes in outer most slot. Reinstall in reverse order. Works perfectly.

Per your video if you watch the video and your the least bit handy it is an easy fix

The part was easy to install. But , you might have to unhook electrical, water, and drain. That is the time problem, part install is easy. All I had was a socket set, 1/4, drive fits. But a nutdriver would have been easier. WATCH the install video, great info!!!!!

Watched the video but my husband did not...He removed all screws from the door, including the control panel which he should not have unscrewed. The outside door panel was difficult to separate from the inner panel . The foam insert was stuck to it. Once it came apart, the dispenser had to be unscrewed (easy), disconnected and replaced.

Remove power to the machine. My particular installation did not require physically removing water and drain lines. Remove the dishwasher from the cavity. Put a towel or two down on the floor. Lay the washer on its face on the towels and this orients the motor in the up position on the bottom of the washer. CAREFULLY unplug the motor wiring harness but if possible, leave the heating element connection in place as spade connectors tend to lose their grip with multiple engagements. Remove the single bolt located between the motor and stainless bottom of the cavity that locks the motor in place. Leave it in the cardboard shield, that really helps in reinstalling it. CCW rotation of the motor disengages it from its housing. Work the motor straight up and out of the housing. This was the most difficult part of the entire process due to the metal housing not quite clearing the plastic pump housing where they mate, but its do-able. Nothing should have to be forced. Now you have the motor in hand. Be very attentive how and what order you disassemble. Remove the back of the motor housing to block the armature to remove the impeller. DO NOT NICK THE FIELD WIRING IN THE MOTOR. I believe the threads were left hand but I don't remember the rotation. They do tighten in the direction of the motor rotation though. Carefully pry the seal out of the pump housing with many short lifts as to not mar the housing itself. Added a little dishwashing detergent on the outside of the new seal and carefully pushed it into place with the end of my screwdriver. Don't cut yourself on the metal insert in the center of the seal.Reassemble the impeller to the shaft WITH the spacer that comes with the new impeller kit. Make sure the impeller is tightened down completely to the end of the threads to insure proper clearances when reassembled. Don't force or over tighten. You'll feel a positive stop. Reassemble the motor to the housing Lubricate the housing o ring seal on the outside with a VERY small amount of dishwashing liquid lest you create a suds factory on startup. Replace the holding bolt on the pump housing. Reconnect the motor leads and heater element if removed. Stand the washer back up. There will probably be water around the door area from the pump when the machine is returned to the upright position. Reconnect lines and check under the pump housing for leaks while in operation being careful not to get into moving parts or electrical connections. Good luck.

Followed video on your site rapair was the same as the video

The video supplied showed me how to take the outer door off but in my case the door would not come loose. Since I did not know if there were other screws holding it I even removed the screws holding the control panel. The outer door still would not budge. After a long time of prying and testing I heard the unmistakable sound of something coming unstuck as I applied pressure to pull the outer door away from the inner door. With a little coaxing and very careful pulling the outer door came loose. The outer door had Styrofoam insulation in several places and under the intense heat of years of dying cycles, had melted and become stuck to the inner door parts. The new part went in easily but I did not tighten the screws enough and my first test some water seeped around the new unit and came out inside the door. I retightened the screws and all is well now.

The most direct way to do this job is to completely pull out the dishwasher so you can get to all the parts involved. However, I didn't want to break and make all 3 connections. Having installed it using braided hose for the water line, I had enough give to pull the unit out about halfway. This exposed the pulleys and door hook, but the spring was still in the back (and had actually fallen off the frame and was now lying behind the frame on the floor. So a little back and forth and I was able to retrieve it. I hooked the link on the end and blindly and miraculously hooked the spring into it's hole on the frame. Since I had no room to work with the door open, I had to keep it closed which meant the spring was under full tension. This is where the drum stick came in. I pulled the spring forward with a pliers and shoved the drumstick in the loop on the spring and held the stick against the baseboard while I threaded the string around the pulleys and onto the door hook. I guess I could have tried a long screwdriver, but the drumstick was handy and the bulbous tip prevented the spring from sliding off

Due to the posts on this site, I took the advise of replacing the chopper assy. Old chopper did not look bad and seemed to function. Apparently I was wrong. After new chopper was installed, dishwasher worked fine.