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KUDS01DJSS0 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for KUDS01DJSS0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the KUDS01DJSS0
46-60 of 845
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Water was leaking.

  • Customer: Phil from Fairfax, VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 20 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
This unit was unique that whole motor assembly was held in its place by two plastic clip. The gasket had few rings that worked as place holder, although gaskets don't go bad often this model could be if it gets pulled alot and if motor assembly get pushed it will push up the gasket and cause a leak. Repair was simple, 1) take spray arm off from inside. 2) get under neath the dishwasher, take off wires so it would free up some room, pulled two plastic holder out, gently push the motor assembly up to the tub, 3) from inside the tub, pull up the assembly enough to get your hand under the gasket and pull them off. 4) Replace the gasket, align the assmebly and push down to snap in the gasket. 5) get under and push in two plastic clip back in, put wires back into its place. Back in the tub to push down the assembly again to make sure there are flush with surface. Put spray arm back on. Finished.

Removed & Replaced Detergent Dispenser

  • Customer: Raymond from Lancaster, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Via your web-site I was able to download the step-by-step screen-shot pictures. I was really surprised on how easy the detailed photo screen shots made the repair really easy! Thanks for making this repair a piece of cake. If I should ever need additional parts for any of my home appliances I will certainly order my parts through PartSelect.

Dishwasher basin would fill and then dishwater would shut off. The water was not pumping into the cleaning showers.

  • Customer: James from Old Town, ME
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
To empty the water in the dishwater basin, I pushed the cancel button and closed the door. I then turned the electrical breaker to the off position that supplies electricity to the dishwasher. I confirmed the power was off by attempting to start the dishwaser. I removed the metal plate between the dishwater door and the floor by removing the two screws. I removed the two screws that connect the top of the dishwasher to the underside of the countertop. I shut the water valve that supplies hot water to the dishwasher (mine was located under the sink). I disconnected the drain hose (plastic) by using pliers to loosen the clamp the holds the hose on the outlet of the drain pump (drain pump is much smaller than the pump that needed replacement). A towell is handy to soak up the water that comes out the hoses. I loosened the nut on the water supply hose (this was difficult because of lack of room)using a wrench and pliers. I opened the door on the metal box that houses the wire nuts for the electrical connection to dishwater, and I removed the wire nuts and the screw for the ground wire. Once the white, black, and gound wires were disconnected, I could pull the dishwater out. I also had to pull the drain hose out from the clips on the side of the washer to pull the dishwasher out into the middle of the kitchen floor. I flipped the dishwasher on its back. I removed the single bolt that held the broken pump motor to the dishwasher, and then the motor twisted counterclockwise and I pulled it out. The pump shaft would not turn freely with my pliers, so I knew the motor was broken. I removed the pump end (impeller) from the dishwasher by tapping it with my screwdriver. The impeller end came out along with a metal screen. The metal screen was 50% plugged, so I cleaned it and put it back in place. I wet the gasket on the new pump motor and slid it back in place while rotating clockwise and locking it in place with the tabs. I replaced the bolt that holds the motor in place and reversed the repair procedure to re-install the dishwasher. Be sure to run the dishwasher and look for any leaks. The last step is to replace the metal plate between the floor and door. While I had the dishwasher pulled out, I discovered another problem with the pulleys and strings that prevent the heavy door from flopping down, but I won't include this repair. The pump and motor must have been failing for some time because the dishwasher is much quieter now and the dishwasher is much faster. I am sure the plugged screen didn't help either.

No power

  • Customer: Scott from Chisago City, MN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced electronic control panel first which had an obvious defect (burned terminal). Still no power. Replaced fuse and works fine now. Took lots of reading to find out the dishwasher had a replacable fuse. Even the appliance store didn't know.

Stopped Running,Will Not Start, and Clean LED Blinks 7 times then repeats

  • Customer: Deb from LaPorte, IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 17 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
Got Maintenance Flyer out an read about problem
Removed access plate
Disconnectd water and drain
Removed anchor screws
Pulled unit out and disconnedted from Electric
Flipped on it's back
Ohmed out all heat related items and found discrepency with Thermisitor resistance
Ordered and received Part
Changed out Thermisitor
Checked wiring to Heater and replaced connections
Hooked electric up
Ran Diognostics per Maintenance flyer and cleared fault
Hooked back up and ran like a champ

The reason it took so long is because I put the old thermisitor back in and tryed to run the diognostics just to make sure that was the problem

Machine was not cleaning properly. insufficient water to the top shelf

  • Customer: John from Rockport, ME
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
I cleaned the chopper and screen a few times and it continued to get blocked after a couple of cycles. Replaced the chopper assembly and now it works find.

Poor seal on old gasket caused water to leak during dishwasher operation.

  • Customer: Jennifer from Edina, MN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
I simply pulled out the old gasket and pushed the new one in with my fingers. I had to trim about an inch off the length with a utility knife. The seal is nice and tight now and we have no more water leakage.

No heat in wash/dry cycles

  • Customer: Greg from St. Peters, MO
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
Heating element came with a new control board that modified the power and some cycle timing. Replacing the board required removing 6 torx screws and half a dozen connectors. Replacing the heating element was likewise very simple, requiring on the removal of two spade connectors and two retaining nuts. Start-to-finish was only 15 minutes.

As usual, Parts Select sent the correct parts, and they arrived very quickly!

The ceramic seal had failed, allowing water to destroy the front motor bearing.

  • Customer: Jerome from Greensburg, IN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Removed dishwasher from under the counter and took it to my shop. With the washer on its side, I removed the motor, then the impeller and seal. I then disassembled the motor and replaced the front bearing(purchased separately). This required an arbor press. I then reassembled the motor and installed the new seal and impeller. Reassembled in reverse order. Reinstalled under the counter and made conections. Checked for leaks and proper operation.

Stopped running in the middle of wash cycle.

  • Customer: Gary from Centennial, CO
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Removed leads from fuse and installed jumper wire (while the power was off, then turned back on) to determine that circuit board was still good. Ordered new fuse and installed using existing wire connections. Did not splice in new connectors that came with fuse. Wires were clean and good and did not want to cut and splice.

Dated Front Panel

  • Customer: Paul from Lubbock, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
We recently installed all new stainless steel appliances, and were considering replacing the dishwasher as well (4 yr. old Kenmore, in good condition, energy star compliant, etc.). We decided to try to find a stainless front panel instead, and Kenmore said for that model they only came in black and white. But after calling Parts Select, they cross indexed our Kenmore model with a Whirlpool model that did come in stainless, and we simply ordered that front panel. The panel fit perfectly, only requiring the removal of 10 screws, and taking the insulation foam from the old panel and installing it in the new, then replacing the screws. Very simple, and economical, fix for our problem. Thanks Parts Select!

Stopped cleaning dishes

  • Customer: Steve from Lexington, SC
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
First i remove upper rack held in by 2 clips at end of metal tracks. Compress inside clips and pull up then slide rack out of tracks.Then remove bottom rack just pick it up.Then i removed bottom sprayer by unscrewing center thumb screw. Then removed feeder tube for top sprayer held in place by 2 ea. phillips screws one on celin of tub and one at back of tub. Move tube to the right which unlocks it and remove. This has to be done to expose 4 ea. star screws. Remove screws and pop screen cover off. You have to take a towel and soak up water to expose bottom of inlets and outlets for water. You will then see the chopper blade with metal screen behind it. It is held in place with on star screw to the left of round top cover. Remove cover and pull on chopper blade which will release it from fingers mated from shaft to chopper blade .While pulling on chopper blade toward front of dishwasher pull up on metal screen it will come out. Clean all food particals out i used a shop vac worked well. Be careful not to drop screws in water inlets. The plastic shaft was broken in half by a piece of dental floss wrapped around shaft. I hope this helps it was not that diffacult just hard to work over door.

Upper button holder allowed bottom wash arm to fall.

  • Customer: Thomas J. from Mesa, AZ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
After I removed the button holder from the upper wash arm supply line, I put the new botton connecter in it's place. I then held the button in place, slightly bending down the water supply, while bring the wash arm, with the lower support in place, pushing the support onto the button holder. The whole thing took less than 30 seconds.

Pump Motor not working

  • Customer: GLENN from CHEPACHET, RI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
1, I shut off ac circuit breaker.
2.Shut off water supply valve.
3.disconnected water line from inlet valve.
4. disconnect the drainage hose.
5. have plenty of towels to mop up water.
6. Remove racks and disconnect water diverters inside the tub.
7. remove phillips head screws that hold dish washer to counter.
8, Pull out DW and lay on its side to expose bottom of dishwasher. disconnect the motor terminal plug. and disconnect the temp prope.
9. disconnect the drainage tube and then proceed to remove the 3 plastic clips that hold the pump housing to the tub.
10. I used some silcone grease around the new pump housing to be safe. then I installed the new pump housing and motor in the reverse order.

It probally took me about an hour start to finish, the hardest part was placing new housing back in. The ring around the bottom of tub is very sharp!
Left some blood there.

Rinse aid dispenser was leaking

  • Customer: Mark from Austin, TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the screws holding the outside door panel to the inside door panel. Next (at this was the tricky part) was separating the panels. In our model of dishwasher, there is a layer of Styrofoam between the two panel to reduce noise. Unfortunately the Styrofoam is glued to both panels. Separating it without damage was not possible. So it was done with brute force and the Styrofoam broke in several places.

Replacing the dispenser involved removing six screws, disconnecting the wires and popping the dispenser out. The new one went in easily although there seemed to be a correct amount of tightening to do. It was tricky to get the cover back on because the Styrofoam pieces had to go back together like a puzzle.

Once reassembled, I ran the machine and it leaked at the dispenser. So the cover came back off. This time I played with the adjustment of the dispenser, testing it with the outside cover off, to insure that I had a tight, non-leaking seal. Once done, I put the cover back on and we are back in business.

The new dispensers do not have connections for the "Add Rinse Aid" light. They use a visual indicator on the dispenser itself. I simply taped the wire for the indicator light up and left it inside the door.

One last note, on our unit, the outside door panel is two pieces. I needed only to removed the lower portion for this repair. Unfortunately, I removed both and in the process broke the small plastic end on the door latch requiring me to purchase a new one. Bummer. That was a 10 minute repair though.
All Instructions for the KUDS01DJSS0
46-60 of 845