Models > KUDS01DJSS0 > Instructions

KUDS01DJSS0 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for KUDS01DJSS0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the KUDS01DJSS0
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Dishwasher not responding.

  • Customer: William from North Providence RI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 32 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
First I checked the power supply and noticed the breaker was not tripped. Confirmed the unit was getting power. I then downloaded a parts breakdown from the Kitchen Aid website and noticed there was a fuse mounted in the control section. Using my digital multimeter I confirmed there was no continuity through the fuse. I then ordered the part, installed it and washed a load of dishes:-)

The door gasket stuck to the door a pulled out of place after every use

  • Customer: Penny from Manchester MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 38 of 55 people found this instruction helpful
Worked the new gasket into the groove with a smooth screwdriver and my fingers. No leaks and it stays in place. Parts Select had the right part and I got it fast

Glasses in the top shelf had food bits - not rinsing well

  • Customer: Clifford from Centennial CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 31 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
The most difficult part of this was figuring out the problem was with the middle spray arm - that it was not spinning (and thus not rinsing the top dishes). I could spin it by hand fine - but if I watched its position while the machine was running (open/close the door) I saw it wasn't moving. I took out the top shelf (with spray arm attached) and connected it to the garden hose. I could see then that the arm was sagging and hitting the rear connection, preventing it from spinning. To replace I removed the plugs from the top shelf side-rails (bend the rail open with your thumb and tip the plugs out of the rail to the right for the left rail, to the left for the right rail. this is easier than pulling them out the end of the rail). Slide out the top shelf. Turn over, remove the phillips screw and pull off the manifold, and middle spray arm. Replace with the new parts. I also replaced the top spray arm (which was very loose, and probably not spraying well because it was so loose). For this I unclipped the top feed tube and pulled off the old sprayer. Put a towel in the bottom rack of the washer so you don't drop the little pieces into the pump below. The top spray arm simply snaps in with the two connectors (the pointy one attaches through the feed tube).

Upper Wash Arm fell out

  • Customer: David from Orchard Park NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 29 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
Repair is a piece of cake, much to my relief. The difficult part, if you can call it that, is that when you go to put the small piece in the top that will ultimately hold the Upper Wash Arm in place - don't drop it. Drop it and you are screwed. It goes into the sump area, and you have to disassemble the whole bloody thing to retrieve it, which isn't maybe the easiest thing in the world to figure out. My recommendation would be to 1) remove the top dish rack so you've got a clear shot at it, and 2) cover the sump area with something, anything, that will prevent little bitty pieces that you drop from falling into that sump. Prevent this. Learn from a chump how not to be one yourself.

Dishwasher heating element wouldn't heat

  • Customer: Luis from Laguna Hills CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 27 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
Replacing the heating element was very easy. Simply required 1) disconnecting water and power, 2) unfastening the dishwasher from the cabinet, 3) removing the big, white plastic bolts from the back, underside of the dishwasher, 4) disconnecting the electrical leads, 5) dropping in the new element from the inside of the washing chamber, 6) reconnecting the bolts and leads.

Replacing the electronic control unit was more difficult. The first challenge was figuring out where the old box was installed. There are no instructions to indicate that it is in the front door assembly. The replacement required 1) removing the 8 (or 10) torx screws from the door 2) removing the 2 torx screws that attached the front door cover 3) disconnecting the 5+ connections to the electrical control box, 4) removing the electrical control box, 5) replacing everything in reverse.

Some of the electrical connections were a little challenging to disconnect (a small set of needle nose pliers helped here). Removing the electrical control box was also a little tricky to do without damaging the plastic tabs.

In all, the electrical control box replacement took me about 60 minutes because I had to figure it out from scratch.

i hope this helps others because, in all, I am very happy that I chose to do this repair myself instead of paying for the service call.

Water would not drain, upper rack position couldn't be changed

  • Customer: John from Mountain View CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 33 of 48 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled out dishwasher after checking the air gap, etc. Washer would marginally pump out water and could hear motor running on drain cycle. Usual mess from water draining out of hoses.

Ohmed drain motor at 24ohms, should be 16.3 ohms from repair manual. Noted check valve, a rubber flapper, was canted out from sealing surface.

New motor ohms at 24 ohms, installed new motor prophylactilly. Installed new flapper valve through the sump. Washer checked okay for drain cycle.

Feed tube assembly was ordered as upper rack flapper valve was worn into open on upper position due to normal use. Feed tube spinner was small, so the rubber flapper was scavenged from the new assembly and used on the old feed tube assembly.

no power to anything...shut off mid-cycle

  • Customer: James from Ventura CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 23 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the 6 torx screws that hold the control panel on the top part of the door, from the inside, removed the large plastic cover from the control board, removed the 2 big wires that go to the thermal fuse...tested for continuity and foung the fuse faulty...ordered a new fuse kit, reversed the procedure and it works like new.

The door handle broke inside so that it was all loose and was difficult to close.

  • Customer: Nigel from Boca Raton FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 26 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
Recoved the screws which secured the handle assembly (approx 8). Removed the old parts and screwed home the new parts and replaced the assembly. Worked perfectly.

The hardest thing for me was to decipher the model number as they use '1s' and 'Is' and you can't tell them apart.

Also the part diagrams should have each part number listed to make it easier. Took me longer to work out what to order than do the repair.

Water was not being pumped out of the dishwasher

  • Customer: Truman from Atlanta GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 25 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
This site is wonderful..., thank you. Especially thanks to Nanette's detailed experience. The thing that gave me the most problem (and apparently Nanette, as well) was removing the lower round cover of the chopper assembly. Finally, some one on the internet identified the trick...put needle nose pliers in the screw-hole and pull-away. It came right out. Wish I could acknowledge the source but now can't find it.
Actually, the check valve was good, but I replaced it anyway. It was 10 times the trouble to replace than the drain pump. Wish I had started with the drain pump. By removing the drain hose, I stuck my finger in the hole and discovered the problem: the impeller was off of the pump and lying in the bottom of the drain. It was a simple thing to replace the pump. Press down on the locking mechanism and turn it to the left. When it was off, I could see that the check valve was in place and not a problem. (Of course by that time, I had already replaced it.) Good luck.

Water leaking from front right corner (door) while washer running

  • Customer: Clifford from Centennial CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 23 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
The hardest part of this was figuring out the cause of the leak. It only leaked while the washer was running (arms spinning). I thought it might be the air intake seal at the lower part of the door-but that did not look damaged.
I cleaned off the door gasket really good and that slowed the leak - so I figured the gasket was the problem (plus changing the gasket is cheap and it was old anyway).

I pulled the old gasket off (no tools required).
I cleaned the track/slot that the gasket goes into, and the area around it from all the caked-on soap and gunk.
Cleaned off the door edge that seals with the gasket too.
I took the new gasket and folded it in half to find the middle, then started with the middle, putting it into the track (used the center door latch on the frame to know the middle on the washer).
I worked the gasket into the slot just with my fingers. I found that if I pinched the part that goes into the slot with my thumb/finger that helped get it deep into the slot without tools.
I worked around one side, slowly and carefully pushing it into the slot. Did the other side the same way - starting from the middle and working down to the end at the bottom of the washer. Checked the gasket to make sure it was all set in well.
There is an inch or so of the gasket left over at the bottom - I just bent that around the bend so it was not in the way.

Dishes still dirty after full cycle. problem developed gradually over 2 week period

  • Customer: Jeff from Vallejo CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 21 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
Several hours to diagnose problem: Removed all the plastic water distribution tubes to top rack and found no blockages. removed lower water jets, drain screens using star driver on 6 screws. still could find now blockages. decided problem had to be in pump mounted below unit so completely disconnected unit and removed from under counter. Upon removing lower plate below door I discovered a plastic pouch containing an excellent trouble shooting guide with complete dis-assembly instructions and parts breakout diagrams with P/N listings! First thing I discovered from this was that the chopper assembly was hiding under a plastic cover just under the filter screen I had already removed. The trick was to press down on the right side of the plate to get it to pop up and reveal the chopper. The whole chopper assembly slides out without tools. I found the strainer plate behind the chopper blade totally plugged as the blade had broken off the plastic drive shaft because the retaining knob on the end of the shaft had broken off. I was able to drill and tap the shaft and install a SS machine screw with washer to reassemble the chopper blade on the shaft. Not expecting this "Joe Maggee" repair to last more than a few cycles I went online with the P/N and googled PartSelect. Placed the order and chose std delivery over 2day or next day since I expected the repair to last for the week. I put everything back together and the first load came out perfect! This was Sunday afternoon. Tuesday the part arrived at my doorstep! 15 minutes and the new part was in. My "Joe Maggee" repair is now in the junk drawer awaiting the next pistachio shell that gets run through the washer.

Dispenser worked intermittently

  • Customer: ROY from PHILPOT KY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 21 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
First, I brought in my electric screwdriver and torx bit set. The screws holding the door are torx type. I removed the screws holding the door cover allowing access to the (6) hex head screws holding the dispenser in place. Raising the plastic flap covering the dispenser I removed the (2) electrical plugs from the solenoid. Using my elec/screwdriver and a 3/16" socket I quickly removed the old dispenser.
I cleaned the gasket area with some 409 and a paper towel and slid the new dispenser into place. I used a 3/16" nutdriver to tighten the screws. I tightened the screws in a cross pattern in (3) stages so as not to squeeze the gasket out of position. Screw slowly and the screws will bottom out when the proper gasket tension has been achieved, don’t over tighten.
I closed the door and ran the dishwasher in rinse cycle checking for leaks. After a couple of minutes and no leaks I pushed the cancel and drain button. I folded the plastic cover back down over the dispenser and reinstalled the outer door cover tightening all screws with my electric screwdriver and torx bit. I opened the door and filled the rinse dispenser.
We've used the dishwasher several times since the repair and the dispenser has worked fine.

No water out the spray arms; first thing you'll notice is the top rack not getting clean.

  • Customer: Brian from Inola OK
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 19 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Took racks out, loosen screw on top and back then twist feed tube to right and whole assembly can be removed. Now you should be able to see some torx screws; remove those and then remove the piece they were holding down, from there you'll see another screw, remove it and the piece and so on until there are no more screws. Now there is the food chopper cover that needs to be removed; mine was stuck there. You should notice some ribs underneath that allow the water to be sucked in while keeping really big pieces out; I got a pair of channel-locks, opened them all the way and was able to slip one of the pieces under the cover and pull straight up, once off you will see the chopper covvered in food. I cleaned mine off and it looked good, but when I put it back and stuck my finger down teh discharge tube and turned the pump, the chpper did not turn. when I put the new one in and did the same test it did turn. If the chopper is still fits in the slot, it can be cleaned and put back and work for several washes while the part is shipped. I went ahead and changed the check valve since I had it opened which is just to the right of the chopper(all you can see is a little slit and some black rubber). Use some needle nose and pull it out. I would not do this unless you plan on changing it, I pulled mine out to look at it and when I put it back so I could order the parts the dishwasher never drained properly. When you compare a new one with an old one you will see what I mean, you can drop a new one right in but the old one you will have to force in (gets water logged over time and expands). This job is very easy and a lot cheaper than a new DW...and your wife will be impressed, so do not be intimidated.

Dishes were not getting clean / Low Water Pressure

  • Customer: Greg from Virginia Beach VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 19 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Started as dishes not getting clean and I observed that the top arm was not spinning and there was very low water pressure coming out of the jets. After making sure the water level was up to the bottom of the heating element and making sure the jets were not clogged I checked the filter and chopper. It was a little tough to get the cover off of the chopper but once I did I could see that the chopper scraper was broken off and the shaft was broken. The screen was all clogged up with stuff. Ordered a new assembly and put it in making sure to compress the spring and make sure the gears lined up. Now it is running great.
I think the Kitchenaid is the same as the Whirlpools.

DISHWASHER QUIT RUNNING ON THE PRESSURE SIDE (PUMP MOTOR WENT BAD).

  • Customer: JACK from HARDIN MT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 18 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off water and disconnected line, then disconnected drain, turned off power and slid dishwasher out and turned turned upside down and removed hold down bolt ( it is a 3/8 head bolt) removed wire from motor and twisted motor assembly approximately 1/4 turn counter clock wise and removed old motor and seal assembly reinstalled new motor with new seal and rewired. turned washer back upright and removed filter assembly and lower jet arm, removed cover for food disposal and reinstalled disposal blade back on pump drive reinstalled cover and filter assembly and jet arm. slid unit back in place and anchored down to cabinet and turned water and power back on ran washer through a short cycle to clean any soap build up that was left inside and that was it, It all works just like new.
All Instructions for the KUDS01DJSS0
16-30 of 797