KUDP01FLSS6 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

SAFTY: Turn water off. Flip the circuit breaker.
PREPARE FOR REMOVAL: Unscrew / Remove kickplate. Disconnected water connect just behind the kickplate. Be ready with a couple of dishtowels. Pull the door down and remove any screws that go into the under part of your counter top. Jack the front legs screw down.
REMOVE: Gently pull the Dishwasher from under counter. Push the insulation flat against the side of the dishwasher about every six inches that you pull the dishwasher out to prevent it from snaggin on the cabinet face edges. Remove the baskets and spray arms. Careful not to damage the heating element.
NOTE: Here I noticed that the guy who installed the dishwasher kinked the copper line limiting the water into to my dishwasher. So my circulation pump/motor was probably running dry. I replaced with a flex type "dishwasher" hose that will easily coil up behind / underneath without kinking when I push back in. DO THE REPAIR RIGHT - DO IT YOURSELF!
REPAIR: I gently laid the dishwasher on it's side (cardboard underneath). I disconnected the power - 2 wires. Then, I only disconnect one wire harness, the sump tubing and the I thought I'd better remove the impeller that the sump tubing was connected to (it was only attached with one screw). Remove the 3 plastic clips around the pump/motor. Carefully push the pump into the dishwasher. DO NOT LET THE PUMP FALL AS IT MAY DAMAGE THE HEATING ELEMENT IN THE DISHWASHER! Push the new pump/motor in place until the seal is at least flush with the bottom. I used the back of a wood spoon. Don't pull on any part of the motor from the bottom or you'll break the thin aluminum casting. Just inserting the plastic clips back in place will pull the seal flush with the bottom again.

I was lucky. I simply removed the motor/pump, replaced it with the new motor/pump, and put everything back together in reverse. I put a little bit of silicone grease on the o-ring of the temperature probe. I happened to have some silicone grease because I also have a pool.
Done. It cost me $220 Vs. $550 quoted by Sears. That doesn't count the extra Sears would have charged my for repairing the kinked copper line. And you know they would've kinked it again. That only cost me $20 more and the flexible line couldn't have been easier to install. I could have done the whole thing for less but I opted to replace the pump/ motor together.
Getting it all done right, no leaks, no kinked line, keeping the dishwasher that matches the other appliances (VS. replacing it at $550 repair price), all less than 1/2 the price of a quoted repair - PRICELESS. - THANK YOU PART SELECT. DISCLAIMER: I have no affiliation with Part Select.

Removed mushroom shaped float cover by simply pulling up. Cover simply slide down into switch which is mounted through the floor of the tub. Using an adjustable wrench loosened and removed plastic fastening nut allowing removal of switch assembly from below. Disconnected two wires from switch and attached replacement assembly, reinserted in mounting hole, reattached nut from top, reinserted float cap and job done! The only tricky part is that the switch needs to be mounted inside assembly, wires connected and snapped shut before reinserting. Not difficult once you figure it out, Also need to make sure rubber washer is inserted on the overflow tube before reinstalling. Keep track as you remove and simply reverse the order. Tried to obtain part locally and was told it would be 6-10 days before delivery. Order from Part select arrived in 2 days.

I called an experienced plumber, who balanced and installed my new dishwasher properly, using the brackets I ordered from Parts Select, after an INEXPERIENCED plumber had tossed the factory-provided mounting brackets out with the shipping carton. Relief!

First I checked the power supply and noticed the breaker was not tripped. Confirmed the unit was getting power. I then downloaded a parts breakdown from the Kitchen Aid website and noticed there was a fuse mounted in the control section. Using my digital multimeter I confirmed there was no continuity through the fuse. I then ordered the part, installed it and washed a load of dishes:-)

Mine was an easy fix, lift out old and insert new. I just want to comment on the excellent service I received. I ordered on one day and my product arrived the next! Amazing! Thank you,PartSelect!

Didn't have to remove any screws, etc. Just had to pull the old gasket out of a grove in the top and sides of the frame, clean up the particles caused by the deterioration of the old gasket, and install the new gasket. Have to be careful to start at the top center of the frame exactly in the midpoint of the gasket and carefully push the gasket into the grove with your hands. Try not to stretch the gasket. There will be about 2 inches of extra gasket laying on the bottom on each side of the dishwasher, and that is OK.

Repair is a piece of cake, much to my relief. The difficult part, if you can call it that, is that when you go to put the small piece in the top that will ultimately hold the Upper Wash Arm in place - don't drop it. Drop it and you are screwed. It goes into the sump area, and you have to disassemble the whole bloody thing to retrieve it, which isn't maybe the easiest thing in the world to figure out. My recommendation would be to 1) remove the top dish rack so you've got a clear shot at it, and 2) cover the sump area with something, anything, that will prevent little bitty pieces that you drop from falling into that sump. Prevent this. Learn from a chump how not to be one yourself.

Ordered the parts on your site since I could find a parts schematic that really helped. I had to move the unit out and replace the spring on one side. We replaced both nylon cords since the other was showing a little wear. Received the parts quickly and made the repair the same day.

Switched circuit breaker off.
Removed kick panel.
Removed the dishwasher from counter.
Disconnected drain hose from the pee trap.
Disconnected drain hose from pump.
Installed new drain hose.
Reinstalled dishwasher in counter.
Connected hose at the pee trap.
Turned power back on. test for leaks by running a cycle.
Reinstalled kick panel.

Took racks out, loosen screw on top and back then twist feed tube to right and whole assembly can be removed. Now you should be able to see some torx screws; remove those and then remove the piece they were holding down, from there you'll see another screw, remove it and the piece and so on until there are no more screws. Now there is the food chopper cover that needs to be removed; mine was stuck there. You should notice some ribs underneath that allow the water to be sucked in while keeping really big pieces out; I got a pair of channel-locks, opened them all the way and was able to slip one of the pieces under the cover and pull straight up, once off you will see the chopper covvered in food. I cleaned mine off and it looked good, but when I put it back and stuck my finger down teh discharge tube and turned the pump, the chpper did not turn. when I put the new one in and did the same test it did turn. If the chopper is still fits in the slot, it can be cleaned and put back and work for several washes while the part is shipped. I went ahead and changed the check valve since I had it opened which is just to the right of the chopper(all you can see is a little slit and some black rubber). Use some needle nose and pull it out. I would not do this unless you plan on changing it, I pulled mine out to look at it and when I put it back so I could order the parts the dishwasher never drained properly. When you compare a new one with an old one you will see what I mean, you can drop a new one right in but the old one you will have to force in (gets water logged over time and expands). This job is very easy and a lot cheaper than a new DW...and your wife will be impressed, so do not be intimidated.

First, I brought in my electric screwdriver and torx bit set. The screws holding the door are torx type. I removed the screws holding the door cover allowing access to the (6) hex head screws holding the dispenser in place. Raising the plastic flap covering the dispenser I removed the (2) electrical plugs from the solenoid. Using my elec/screwdriver and a 3/16" socket I quickly removed the old dispenser.
I cleaned the gasket area with some 409 and a paper towel and slid the new dispenser into place. I used a 3/16" nutdriver to tighten the screws. I tightened the screws in a cross pattern in (3) stages so as not to squeeze the gasket out of position. Screw slowly and the screws will bottom out when the proper gasket tension has been achieved, don’t over tighten.
I closed the door and ran the dishwasher in rinse cycle checking for leaks. After a couple of minutes and no leaks I pushed the cancel and drain button. I folded the plastic cover back down over the dispenser and reinstalled the outer door cover tightening all screws with my electric screwdriver and torx bit. I opened the door and filled the rinse dispenser.
We've used the dishwasher several times since the repair and the dispenser has worked fine.

My dishwasher motor was getting very noisy lately and finally died altogether. (the fwd bearing and seals had worn out. There was a small pile of what looked like white sand under the motor from the wear) I removed the dishwasher from the counter after turning off the power at the breaker box. I then turned the dishwasher on its side. The pump motor is removed by first removing the electrical connector, then loosening the retaining bolt and twisting the motor counterclockwise about a quarter turn. The gasket required a little force to become unseated from the housing but not to bad. Wiggle and pull! Be sure to take a look at the alignment at this point to facilitate reinstallation.To install the new motor, align the mark on the impeller(small delta) with the mark on the motor. Insert Motor into housing and turn clockwise one quarter turn till retaining bolt hole is aligned. Install retaining bolt. Be sure to note the position of the stainless steel screen where you insert the motor. Place it back in position before installing the pump if it is disturbed. I lubed the oring with vaseline prior to install also. The new oring was diffrent and did not feel very tight when i installed , but there were no leaks and the dishwasher is running like new. Partselect had the part at my door the next day with no upgrade in shipping charges and I will use them in the future. This forum helped me choose them and made the task easier to do. Hope this helps you as well.

We have been living with this problem for a couple of years. My wife resorted to leaning a chair with a bag of potatoes against the door. As time went on, she had to use heaver and heaver potatoes. Soon, nothing would hold the door shut. As a last resort (after calling Kitchen Aid and finding out my extended warranty that was paid for 5 years wouldn't cover the repair due to some technicality), I decided to try and replace all three items that could contribute to the door not staying shut. The Strike Plate, Door Latch and Door Seal. Parts were easy to find on the web site and delivered from PartSelect in record time. The installation was fairly easy. I loosened the star head screws holding the Stainless outer front panel to the inner panel. These are located all around the inside of the door. The Stainless front panel then separated a bit, like a "V". I didn't completely remove the front panel as there seemed to be some wires connected that I didn't want to mess with. So I just tilted it forward and reached inside to remove the 2 screws holding the door latch. Replaced it and the door seal. Removing the strike plate required slipping a knife under the plate and releasing the spring prongs from he sides. It all seemed very intuitive. Even though we were expecting to be dishwasher shopping the next day - The door stayed shut and has worked great now for a month.

Checked grinder and cleaned it several times, adjusted blades. Dishes would be clean for approx. 6 cycles, then would not clean. Placed dishwasher on its front and removed the motor. Removed grinder and impeller which I found to be worn so that the blades would not turn on the grinder which caused it to collect food particles. The impeller locks in easily.

I removed the 6 torx screws that hold the control panel on the top part of the door, from the inside, removed the large plastic cover from the control board, removed the 2 big wires that go to the thermal fuse...tested for continuity and foung the fuse faulty...ordered a new fuse kit, reversed the procedure and it works like new.