KUDI01ILBL6 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Followed instructions from web site.

The replacement of the old with the new was very easy, however after the installation was complete the noise from the new detergent and rinse aid dispenser motor was exactly the same as the old. So at this point I have no idea what is really wrong with the dishwasher. I may have to call in a repair contractor after all. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Removed the dishwasher from under the counter (electrical and plumbing as well) and replaced the links and pulleys. The link kit was exactly what was required to fix the problem. I also reduced the tension on the new links by moving the new pulleys to the least tension position. The new link kit pulleys should have been part of the original design. It took longer to remove/replace the dishwasher than to replace the links. Poor original design led to premature failure in 4 years - poor Whirlpool quality especilly for a high end KitchenAid appliance.

Verified power to panel; dishwasher started when fuse by-passed. Ordered fuse kit and wire harness. Based on advice from one individual on web site I did not follow instructions but merely plugged in new fuse kit, rather than splicing in new wire harness. Dishwasher worked for 20 minutes and then fuse blew again. Ordered kit again, followed instructions (took 5 minutes more). Works fine. Elliot

We knew there was power going to unit, tested electrical wall switch. My husband temporarily "bypassed" fuse and everything lit up. From other user's comments, took a stab that Fuse Kit might be the problem. Piece arrived within 3 days! The unit fired up, worked successfully 3 times and QUIT AGAIN! Having read something about the heating element causing problems, taking a desperate leap of faith the day before Thanksgiving cleanup, we temporarily put an auto parts fuse in for the moment, DO NOT USE HEAT DRY and it continues to work fine. For as much as this unit costs, with the heat-dry element feature as an option, a little disturbing not being able to use it or the fuse blows. We will order another thermal Fuse Kit in the near future and reinstall it. As for potential problems with the stove, fridge or D/W again, (all KitchenAid) this is my first place to check for parts. Thank you. Good Luck to all you trouble shooting DIY-ers!!!

had the back panel unscrewed which gave me access to the control panel. un-clicked the old fuse and plugged in the new one.

the repair was easy and simple, especially after reading other's experiences. The phone support was excellent. Great service!!!

called Sears as unit only ran some times...service man came and it ran...$125...said was most likely the control panel and it would be and additional $325 for him to get the part and come back and install...told him I think I can install if it stops again...it failed about a week later and would not start...went to PartSelect to purchase the panel...whle looking up the part I read the section on analyzing the problem in "free repair help" and noted that 65% of the time it is the fuse...I checked the fuse for continuity and found none...figured why not try a $15 part first...it came...followed the easy instructions...dishwasher works great...saved over $300...thanks PartSelect for being more than just a parts warehouse

repair was easy

It was a real easy repair. I unscrewed the dishwasher from the counter top. Slid it out from the cabinet about 8 inches. Unscrewed the wheels from the side of the dishwasher and screwed the new one in. It took about 15 mins.
The part came in two days from order.
Real easy!

There are springs located back on the sides of the frame that are each attached to a nylon cord running over a pulley system to a plastic clip that attaches to a lever at the bottom of the door. The plastic clip on one side had broken. The door balance kit I ordered replaces the pulley system and and cord assembly for both sides. To repair it, the dishwasher needs to be pulled out so that both sides can be accessed. The cord assemblies are removed. The pulley assembly is replaced by unscrewing a bolt holding the assembly to the frame, and twisting to remove. It is then replaced with the new one by reversing the steps. After the new cords are installed, the dishwasher can be put back under the sink, and the repair is complete.

I found that the new pulley assembly is an improvement on the old one. The old one had one pulley and then a fixed curved channel for the cord. The cord made an annoying squeaking sound as it passed along the channel. The new one has two pulleys and is completely silent.

removed dishwasher from cabinet, unplugged power, leaned dishwasher on it's left side, used a 3/8 nut-driver to remove bolt holding pump, unplugged wiring harness from pump, rotate pump to the left and remove pump. then install new pump.

The part came pronto. The actual repair was fairly easy, but pulling the dishwasher out it is another story. I replaced the water supply copper pipe by a flexible braided hose. It looks like this is a common problem for these dishwashers.

The kit came with two new cords and two new re-designed pulleys that should make this problem not happen again. I am really glad I used the kit. My local parts house wanted $25 for just one cord. For less money, I was able to repair both sides with cords and replace the original pulleys that caused the failure in the first place!

I was fortunate that the original installation left enough slack for supply, drain, and electrical so that I could pull the DW out about a foot beyond the cabinets. This gave me plenty of room.

Removed two screws at top of dishwasher. _Pulled unit out. Repaired both balances and pushed unit back in. Secured the two screws and Done!