Models > KUDI01FLSS3 > Instructions

KUDI01FLSS3 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for KUDI01FLSS3 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the KUDI01FLSS3
61-75 of 723
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The retainer fell off and melted on the heat element

  • Customer: James from Lago Vista TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Just snapped the new retainer onto the side tines. It holds the rear tines upright on the bottom dishrac.

Heater element burned through

  • Customer: dean from wake forest NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
When the dishwasher is pulled out from the cabinet the nuts that hold the element in place are readily accessible. Pull wires off spade terminals, unscrew nuts, remove and replace element. I tightened the (plastic) nuts 3/4 to 1 turn, and used a little silicone gasket maker on the rubber gaskets provided with the new element.
The electronic module is easily replaced by removing the upper part of the dorr panel (top 6 screws). Transfer the wires to it and snap it in place of the old one. This Whirlpool repair set fit perfectly in this Sears dishwasher, and works as it should.

Lid wouldn't close on detergent dispenser

  • Customer: Ellen from Carmichael CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Thanks to the previous review of this part, I was able to figure out how to do the replacement myself and saving $150 on a service call. The part is super easy to replace. Remove the screws on the door, lift the outside piece of the door up and off the hinges and then unplug the old piece. I had turned off the electricity to the dishwasher to avoid getting shocked. There were 4 hex nut screws holding the part in, removed those & popped out the old part. Installed the new one, put the door back on and the screws, turned it on and no leaks. This part was so easy to replace, even for a 52 year old woman like myself!

Rinse aid dispenser was leaking

  • Customer: Mark from Austin TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the screws holding the outside door panel to the inside door panel. Next (at this was the tricky part) was separating the panels. In our model of dishwasher, there is a layer of Styrofoam between the two panel to reduce noise. Unfortunately the Styrofoam is glued to both panels. Separating it without damage was not possible. So it was done with brute force and the Styrofoam broke in several places.

Replacing the dispenser involved removing six screws, disconnecting the wires and popping the dispenser out. The new one went in easily although there seemed to be a correct amount of tightening to do. It was tricky to get the cover back on because the Styrofoam pieces had to go back together like a puzzle.

Once reassembled, I ran the machine and it leaked at the dispenser. So the cover came back off. This time I played with the adjustment of the dispenser, testing it with the outside cover off, to insure that I had a tight, non-leaking seal. Once done, I put the cover back on and we are back in business.

The new dispensers do not have connections for the "Add Rinse Aid" light. They use a visual indicator on the dispenser itself. I simply taped the wire for the indicator light up and left it inside the door.

One last note, on our unit, the outside door panel is two pieces. I needed only to removed the lower portion for this repair. Unfortunately, I removed both and in the process broke the small plastic end on the door latch requiring me to purchase a new one. Bummer. That was a 10 minute repair though.

Door balance link connection was broken

  • Customer: Clarence from Kennesaw GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnected dishwasher from countertop and slid out about 1.5 feet.
Removed old link.
Installed new link and reconnected to spring.
slid dishwasher back under counter.
Replaced 2 screws back to countertop.
It was really really easy.

My dishes were not being cleaned

  • Customer: Molly from Huntsville AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I looked up the most common problem with this model and it was the chopper assembly. I removed everything down to this. Sure enough, mine was broken off and the screen was completely clogged with debris. It was not difficult to replace, but it did take me a few minutes to slide it in to place. Ladies, you can do this. No need to call a repairman! Look up the repair manual and see where the assembly is. I had no idea it was even there. My dishes are spotless now.

Dishwasher's "clean" light just blinked - wouldn't run. Repairman came and found out problem and suggested I could fix it myself

  • Customer: Peter from San Diego CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Since I had watched a repairman diagnose the problem, it was eash to reproduce how to pull the unit out from the wall and find the faulty part to remove it and replace it with the new thermistor. Two wires to disconnect and connect and repair nearly complete. Pushed it back in, screwed it back to the cabinet and installed foot plate and done.

Pump/motor assembly make making loud noise & door balance cable broken

  • Customer: David from Bartlett IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the dishwasher from under the cabinet. This is what took the most time. Before removing the dishwasher from under the cabinet I disconnected the drain cable to remove all the water from unit. After removing the dishwasher I tipped the unit on its left side. The motor/pump assembly is held in with one screw. After removing this screw the pump/motor assembly comes out with a 1/8 turn counter clock wise. The replacement pump/motor assembly was put back in in reverse order. After the pump/motor assembly was replaced I replaced the door balance cable kit on the right side of the unit. Next I tipped the unit on to its right side and replace the left balance cable kit. After this all that was left was to return the unit back under the cabinet and hook up the water supply line, the drain line, and the power.

Dishwasher basin would fill and then dishwater would shut off. The water was not pumping into the cleaning showers.

  • Customer: James from Old Town ME
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
To empty the water in the dishwater basin, I pushed the cancel button and closed the door. I then turned the electrical breaker to the off position that supplies electricity to the dishwasher. I confirmed the power was off by attempting to start the dishwaser. I removed the metal plate between the dishwater door and the floor by removing the two screws. I removed the two screws that connect the top of the dishwasher to the underside of the countertop. I shut the water valve that supplies hot water to the dishwasher (mine was located under the sink). I disconnected the drain hose (plastic) by using pliers to loosen the clamp the holds the hose on the outlet of the drain pump (drain pump is much smaller than the pump that needed replacement). A towell is handy to soak up the water that comes out the hoses. I loosened the nut on the water supply hose (this was difficult because of lack of room)using a wrench and pliers. I opened the door on the metal box that houses the wire nuts for the electrical connection to dishwater, and I removed the wire nuts and the screw for the ground wire. Once the white, black, and gound wires were disconnected, I could pull the dishwater out. I also had to pull the drain hose out from the clips on the side of the washer to pull the dishwasher out into the middle of the kitchen floor. I flipped the dishwasher on its back. I removed the single bolt that held the broken pump motor to the dishwasher, and then the motor twisted counterclockwise and I pulled it out. The pump shaft would not turn freely with my pliers, so I knew the motor was broken. I removed the pump end (impeller) from the dishwasher by tapping it with my screwdriver. The impeller end came out along with a metal screen. The metal screen was 50% plugged, so I cleaned it and put it back in place. I wet the gasket on the new pump motor and slid it back in place while rotating clockwise and locking it in place with the tabs. I replaced the bolt that holds the motor in place and reversed the repair procedure to re-install the dishwasher. Be sure to run the dishwasher and look for any leaks. The last step is to replace the metal plate between the floor and door. While I had the dishwasher pulled out, I discovered another problem with the pulleys and strings that prevent the heavy door from flopping down, but I won't include this repair. The pump and motor must have been failing for some time because the dishwasher is much quieter now and the dishwasher is much faster. I am sure the plugged screen didn't help either.

Seal on dishwasher worn out and coming loose.

  • Customer: william from Wethersfield CT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Removed old seal, cleaned track, applied adhesive for new seal, seated new seal in track, closed door for 24 hours to allow adhesive to cure, then used dishwasher without difficulty. An easy repair.

Clip no longer held spinner in place

  • Customer: Richard from Sandyston NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Bent the plastic housing down holding the spinner. Slipped the top of clip in slot on top of housing. Attached spinner and bottom of clip by holding top clip and pushing bottom of clip in place. No tools were needed.

The dishwasher would not turn on

  • Customer: Mary Ellen from Fairfield VT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Very simple. We had to remove the screws holding the metal cover on the inside of the dishwasher to access the electrical panel. Then we disconnected the wires that were connected to the fuse kit, unclipped the kit from the panel, clipped the new one on, and replaced the wires. Then all we had to do was screw the metal cover back onto the inside of the door and it worked just fine.

Very loud howling noise during operation

  • Customer: Patrick from Oak Grove MN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 10 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced pump and motor. For the price of the products individually, it only made sense to do the whole thing. As someone else mentioned, much easier to remove the dishwasher and turn it on it's side to remove/replace. Disconnect 3 fittings, 3 stop devices and remove. Other than getting about 20 cuts on my hands from all the metal, it wasn't bad at all.

Dishwasher would not circulate water to clean

  • Customer: Robert from Clinton IA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
My husband pulled out the dishwasher and removed the faulty part and installed the new one. We found info on the parts source website to assist us. Dishwasher works great!!! Someone from the company we purchased it from had replaced it several years ago, and the seal at the bottom had leaked and the motor had siezed because of the water. We also discoved that the water line was severly kinked in 2 places, so we installed a flexable hose. Now my dishwasher is quiet, fills much faster and all this for a fraction of the price of a new appliance. Would recommend this website.

Dishwasher won't turn on

  • Customer: David from Centreville MD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
The cycle select buttons on the top of the door worked and would light, however, the power button did not function and did not light. The faulty part ended up not being the control board but the control panel, which included the power button. I spent a good amount of time troubleshooting the problem until I figured this out. The part number was (8531257) Panel-cntl.
All Instructions for the KUDI01FLSS3
61-75 of 723