Models > KUDI01FLSS3 > Instructions

KUDI01FLSS3 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for KUDI01FLSS3 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the KUDI01FLSS3
31-45 of 694
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Dispenser worked intermittently

  • Customer: ROY from PHILPOT KY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
First, I brought in my electric screwdriver and torx bit set. The screws holding the door are torx type. I removed the screws holding the door cover allowing access to the (6) hex head screws holding the dispenser in place. Raising the plastic flap covering the dispenser I removed the (2) electrical plugs from the solenoid. Using my elec/screwdriver and a 3/16" socket I quickly removed the old dispenser.
I cleaned the gasket area with some 409 and a paper towel and slid the new dispenser into place. I used a 3/16" nutdriver to tighten the screws. I tightened the screws in a cross pattern in (3) stages so as not to squeeze the gasket out of position. Screw slowly and the screws will bottom out when the proper gasket tension has been achieved, don’t over tighten.
I closed the door and ran the dishwasher in rinse cycle checking for leaks. After a couple of minutes and no leaks I pushed the cancel and drain button. I folded the plastic cover back down over the dispenser and reinstalled the outer door cover tightening all screws with my electric screwdriver and torx bit. I opened the door and filled the rinse dispenser.
We've used the dishwasher several times since the repair and the dispenser has worked fine.

Leakage along bottom of door panel during wash/rinse

  • Customer: Carl from North Haven CT
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
The air inlet strip has a flap and two smaller side flaps that seal the bottom of the inner door to the bottom pan that hold the water. The flaps don't form a watertight seal as they only serve to prevent the water surging during wash and rinse cycles from splashing out of the bottom pan onto the floor under the door. What I learned after dismantling the door is that the problem I was having with water dripping from the bottom of the bottom of the outer door was being caused by a loose upper round louvered vent and not he lower vent strip. If the lower vent strip were the problem, water would leak from the front lip of the bottom pan, which is located well behind the face of the front door panel.

Here's my recommendation on the lower vent srtip repair. Turn off the power to the unit at you breaker panel. The air inlet strip is fastened to the backside of the inner stainleess steel door panel. To access the screws the outer door panel must be removed. Open the door and remove the six torx head screws that fasten the outer door panel to the stainless steel inner door. Don't remove the two torx screws top dead center as they hold the door latch. After removing the screws, raise the door up to the nearly closed position. Lift up the outer door panel handle and door bottom to disengage the outer panel from the inner stainless door. The next part is a little tricky since the vent strip hex head screws are at he bottom of the stainless door panel, facing out with the door closed. The lip of the bottom stainless pan is high enough to make it a tight fit to access the screws. There is also a steel bracket that is a door stiffener and holds electrical wiring. I found removing the bracket held by a 1/4" hex head screw on each side made access to the vent strip scews easier. Lay flat on the floor. With a 3/16" nutdriver or socket wrench each of the five vent strip screws can be removed. It's a tight fit between the bottom lip and door bottom, but it can be done. Remove the old vent strip and attach the new one. Make sure it fits snugly into the slot. Best to have an extra pair of hands at this point to hold the stip securely in place while screws are reinserted from the opposite side. Reassemble everything in reverse order.

It was when I had the outer door panel off that I noticed my problem was water getting past the upper round louver vent seal and thus running down the inside of the outer panel. Simple fix was to remove and clean the scale residue from the parts and door. Then reassemble the vent and twitst tighten the vent to compress the rubber seal on the inside face of the door.

Door pops open easily

  • Customer: Martin from Raleigh NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 18 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
We have been living with this problem for a couple of years. My wife resorted to leaning a chair with a bag of potatoes against the door. As time went on, she had to use heaver and heaver potatoes. Soon, nothing would hold the door shut. As a last resort (after calling Kitchen Aid and finding out my extended warranty that was paid for 5 years wouldn't cover the repair due to some technicality), I decided to try and replace all three items that could contribute to the door not staying shut. The Strike Plate, Door Latch and Door Seal. Parts were easy to find on the web site and delivered from PartSelect in record time. The installation was fairly easy. I loosened the star head screws holding the Stainless outer front panel to the inner panel. These are located all around the inside of the door. The Stainless front panel then separated a bit, like a "V". I didn't completely remove the front panel as there seemed to be some wires connected that I didn't want to mess with. So I just tilted it forward and reached inside to remove the 2 screws holding the door latch. Replaced it and the door seal. Removing the strike plate required slipping a knife under the plate and releasing the spring prongs from he sides. It all seemed very intuitive. Even though we were expecting to be dishwasher shopping the next day - The door stayed shut and has worked great now for a month.

dishwasher display would not power up nor turn appliance on.

  • Customer: Jane from Carson City NV
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Following advice given on website by previous customers I was able to remove 6 tork screws and check the fuse which was okay. Proceeded to remove the control board and found significant burning on the bottom side. Ordered a new board online Sunday night, shipped Monday by two day Fed Ex, arrived Weds. morning and installed it in less than 10 minutes. Fair price, excellent service and shipping. Thank you and I would buy from you again.

Plastic clasp on door spring broke

  • Customer: Stephen from Galt CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled dishwasher out from under counter. Relaced cord with plastic hook attaching spring to door. Very easy.

Very impressed with Partselect.com. Full schematic of dishwasher made it easy to select part.

Delivered in 1 day. Fantastic. Highly recommend

Removed & Replaced Detergent Dispenser

  • Customer: Raymond from Lancaster CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Via your web-site I was able to download the step-by-step screen-shot pictures. I was really surprised on how easy the detailed photo screen shots made the repair really easy! Thanks for making this repair a piece of cake. If I should ever need additional parts for any of my home appliances I will certainly order my parts through PartSelect.

Machine was not cleaning properly. insufficient water to the top shelf

  • Customer: John from Rockport ME
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
I cleaned the chopper and screen a few times and it continued to get blocked after a couple of cycles. Replaced the chopper assembly and now it works find.

The nylon cord broke on one side of the door.

  • Customer: Hank from Salado TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Ordered the parts on your site since I could find a parts schematic that really helped. I had to move the unit out and replace the spring on one side. We replaced both nylon cords since the other was showing a little wear. Received the parts quickly and made the repair the same day.

The bottoms had broken out of two compartments in my old silverware basket.

  • Customer: Christina from Jaffrey NH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Lifted out old basket, discarded, and set new basket in place. :-) Rocket science? NOT.

Stopped Running,Will Not Start, and Clean LED Blinks 7 times then repeats

  • Customer: Deb from LaPorte IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 14 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Got Maintenance Flyer out an read about problem
Removed access plate
Disconnectd water and drain
Removed anchor screws
Pulled unit out and disconnedted from Electric
Flipped on it's back
Ohmed out all heat related items and found discrepency with Thermisitor resistance
Ordered and received Part
Changed out Thermisitor
Checked wiring to Heater and replaced connections
Hooked electric up
Ran Diognostics per Maintenance flyer and cleared fault
Hooked back up and ran like a champ

The reason it took so long is because I put the old thermisitor back in and tryed to run the diognostics just to make sure that was the problem

Pump Motor fwd bearing worn out

  • Customer: Thomas from Massapequa NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 12 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
My dishwasher motor was getting very noisy lately and finally died altogether. (the fwd bearing and seals had worn out. There was a small pile of what looked like white sand under the motor from the wear) I removed the dishwasher from the counter after turning off the power at the breaker box. I then turned the dishwasher on its side. The pump motor is removed by first removing the electrical connector, then loosening the retaining bolt and twisting the motor counterclockwise about a quarter turn. The gasket required a little force to become unseated from the housing but not to bad. Wiggle and pull! Be sure to take a look at the alignment at this point to facilitate reinstallation.To install the new motor, align the mark on the impeller(small delta) with the mark on the motor. Insert Motor into housing and turn clockwise one quarter turn till retaining bolt hole is aligned. Install retaining bolt. Be sure to note the position of the stainless steel screen where you insert the motor. Place it back in position before installing the pump if it is disturbed. I lubed the oring with vaseline prior to install also. The new oring was diffrent and did not feel very tight when i installed , but there were no leaks and the dishwasher is running like new. Partselect had the part at my door the next day with no upgrade in shipping charges and I will use them in the future. This forum helped me choose them and made the task easier to do. Hope this helps you as well.

Top rack front wheel broke.

  • Customer: Teresa from Smyrna TN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled out dishwasher. Took out old screws. Unsnapped end of rack slid new wheel in and attached to side. Very Very easy. It was great to get the part so fast and take care of this repair ourselves.

No heat in wash/dry cycles

  • Customer: Greg from St. Peters MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Heating element came with a new control board that modified the power and some cycle timing. Replacing the board required removing 6 torx screws and half a dozen connectors. Replacing the heating element was likewise very simple, requiring on the removal of two spade connectors and two retaining nuts. Start-to-finish was only 15 minutes.

As usual, Parts Select sent the correct parts, and they arrived very quickly!

Water pump motor was making a grinding noise

  • Customer: Glenn from Southlake TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I had a repair guide for my dishwasher which helped. First I removed the water distribution system inside the dishwasher and then removed the door panel. Next I removed the front bottom access panel. I placed a pan under the pump and hoses to catch water when I removed the outlet hose. Very important here! One must remove the pressure switch from the outlet port or else you can't get the pump clear of the washer tub. Next I removed the drain pump by releasing the catch and turning the pump counter clockwise. Now for one of the hard steps. I had to remove three pins which hold the pump assy to the wash tub. Two of them are out of sight so you have to weave you hand past all the hardware and "feel" for the back two. At this point the pump assy just lifts out. Remove the motor /pump by removing one bolt and turning it counter clockwise and withdrawing. I put the new one in. Don't forget to put the pump screen in as I missed this and had to redo the job. Reverse all the previous steps being careful to keep the motor guard out of the pump seal area. Use lots of silicon seal grease and check for leaks on first power up. It took me a couple of adjustments to get a leak-free seal.

Water was leaking.

  • Customer: Phil from Fairfax VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
This unit was unique that whole motor assembly was held in its place by two plastic clip. The gasket had few rings that worked as place holder, although gaskets don't go bad often this model could be if it gets pulled alot and if motor assembly get pushed it will push up the gasket and cause a leak. Repair was simple, 1) take spray arm off from inside. 2) get under neath the dishwasher, take off wires so it would free up some room, pulled two plastic holder out, gently push the motor assembly up to the tub, 3) from inside the tub, pull up the assembly enough to get your hand under the gasket and pull them off. 4) Replace the gasket, align the assmebly and push down to snap in the gasket. 5) get under and push in two plastic clip back in, put wires back into its place. Back in the tub to push down the assembly again to make sure there are flush with surface. Put spray arm back on. Finished.
All Instructions for the KUDI01FLSS3
31-45 of 694