Models > KSCS25FKSS01 > Instructions

KSCS25FKSS01 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for KSCS25FKSS01 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the KSCS25FKSS01
46-60 of 1127
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Icemaker arm was broken

  • Customer: Jason from Austin TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
The tiny piece of plastic that holds the wire that shuts off the icemaker, broke early on with our fridge (after just a few months.) We superglued it, but last week it bit the dust for good.

Once I got this part, I removed the freezer door and trays, and pulled the icemaker out by removing 3 flathead screws and unplugging the cables. Laying in the freezer on the floor was a bit unconfortable, but not too bad.

Then I inspected the icemaker. There was no obvious way to remove the part without disassembling the front of the unit (where the motor is) to release the spindle and free the part, so I did that - 3 or 4 nuts was all that held it together. Once that was out, I removed the spindle, swapped out the part, and put it all back together and back in the freezer. Plugged it in and waited.

It took a while to start making ice. Like 5 hours. Now it's going pretty slow (much slower than before.) Haven't had time to look into it, but my suspicion is the rubber hose that feeds water into the icemaker is blocked with ice or kinked. In any case, we have ice now (but not a lot), and the unit shuts itself off properly. However, we went from having too much ice (thing never shut off) to too little (thing makes ice too slow), so I need to shoot for somewhere in the middle ;)

Persistent leaks in the water/ice making supply system

  • Customer: John from Germantown TN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 16 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
My attempt to repair a leak in the water supply lines merely generated other leaks. It became obvious that the whole supply and filtration system should be replaced. 1. Turn off water supply and unplug the refrigerator. 2. Remove the fiber cover from the lower rear of the refrigerator. 3. Disconnect nylon supply tubing at the supply spigot and at the water valve near the rear of the refrigerator. Both of these tubes connect to the filter housing. 4. Remove the grille at the front of the refrigerator under door. 5. Removing the front grille gives access to the front of the filter housing Remove the two screws holding the filter housing in place. 6. Remove the filter housing with both nylon water tubes as an assembly. Some coaxing may be necessary, because there is no clearance between the bottom of the refrigerator and the front cross-member. Rotate the assembly about 1/4 turn clockwise as the assembly is withdrawn. 7. Install the new tubes into the new filter housing. 8. Install the assembly into the front of the refrigerator, reversing the removal procedure. 9. Either remove the old filter from the old housing and install it in the new housing or replace the filter. 9. Turn on the water and check for leaks. While the refrigerator is open, use this opportunity to clean the condensor coils. 10. If there are no leaks, replace the front grille and the fiber cover on the back of the refrigerator. 11. Turn on the power.

water filter cap broke when extracting old filter

  • Customer: John from North Andover MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
ordered new filter cap, installed on new filter and reinstalled in refrigerator

The outer cap came off and could not turn it.

  • Customer: Dennis from Chocowinity NC
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required:
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Used pliers to help turn knob 1/4 turn to left removed filter; replaced with new filter.
Probably need new outer cap.

Light Would Not Go On In The Refrigerator

  • Customer: DANIEL from MINNEAPOLIS MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the old lightbulb from the socket and replaced it with a new one to confirm that the bulb was not the problem. I then pryed the socket out with a flat-head screwdriver. I could tell that the socket was anchored in its hole with clips so it was relatively easy to pry it out. Once the socket was out, I disconnected the lead wires and ordered a replacement socket kit from Partselect. When the new one arrived, I reconnected the lead wires to it, snapped it back into its hole, screwed in a new lightbulb, and presto!! The light was back on with no further problem. Thank you, Partselect!! A $15.00 part saved me what probably would have been at least a $100. service call and heaven knows what the technician would have told me I needed!!!

Ice dispenser would not operate

  • Customer: John from Poway CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
The control bracket is made of plastic and holds two microswitches that activate the ice dispenser and the water dispenser. The plastic clips that held the switches on the control bracket broke so that the switches no longer operated when the ice dispenser lever was operated.

Two screws held the external dispenser bezel, and two screws held the control bracket in place. The wiring and switches were transferred to the new bracket and the new bracket screwed into place. Then the bezel was replaced.

Total repair time was less than 5 minutes. The control bracket was $16.50 with shipping and arrived two days after I placed the order.

The PartSelect website had a clear diagram of the control bracket so I was comfortable with the order.

Slow to produce ice & tray damage

  • Customer: Tim from Leander TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the top two screws and one on the bottom which attach the ice maker to the side of the freezer. I unclipped the wire bundle from the side of the ice maker and unplugged the connector, totally removing the unit . The maker came with several different wiring setups, but I just used the existing. The contol arm on the new unit basically snaps into place and the above process is reversed to install the new unit. My old ice maker had an accelerator which blows cold air to the bottom of the tray to speed up ice production. This component was undamaged and by taking off the new units outer end cap and borrowing the clips from the old unit, this component can be installed on the new ice maker.

water dispenser not working

  • Customer: Teddie from Sherman Oaks CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 16 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
Remove side handle from the freezer door ...pop out the black panel from the ice/water dispenser... you need to bend it a little bit to remove... un snap the electrical connections ...the plastic connectors, not from the fridge or the back of the panel,there are plastic connectors (white) in the middle between the fridge & the plastic outside panel.I needed a thin knife to lift the connector snaps to pull the pieces apart. It's not a bad idea to note how they match up so you can put it back properly. unscrew the white panel. There are two screws remove panel.I had to cut the micro switch out of the old style panel. the new panel is much more precise. By the way, if you are replacing the micro switch, it's a good thing to know, there are two. One is for the ice maker, the other is for the water dispenser. You might as well replace both at the same time even if one is working it will save you having to do this again anytime soon.Snap the micro chip into place & thread the wires back through the control panel screw the panel back into the door snap the wires togeather. now test the water dispenser just to be sure. Now arm wrestle the panel back in to the tracks. This is the hardest part. Why it doesn't just slide in is beyond me. Must have been designed by a guy!!! It really is easy & it saved me $300.

Auto Defrost Freezer keeps defrosting SIDE BY SIDE KITCHENAID

  • Customer: James from Ringoes NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
DISCONNECT POWER. Removed all shelves/baskets.Popped upper panel off (just clips in) Removed 6 screws in lower back panel ( 3 each side) slid panel in place but down. You can then easily see the defrost thermostat/defrost termination switch. Cut the wire connectors (pink n brown wire) stripped back wire, attached new defrost thermostat. Thermostat clips on. New thermostat ohm's at 5.5, old one was "open". Slid cover back up meeting the upper cover grooves. Screwed lower panel in. Put shelves etc back in. Plugged in. Turns on, put a bottle of water in freezer. Checked a while later, frozen. has been frozen for a week.
-James

shut off arm broke

  • Customer: Thomas from Va. Beach VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 17 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
open ice maker door, use mirror to view slot in front of ice maker, slip piece in place and done

The icemaker stopped filling the ice tray to make ice.

  • Customer: shannon from sierra vista AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 14 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
I checked the fuses and hoses in the back of the refrigerator to make sure water WAS in fact getting to the front of the fridge. Since the water through the front door worked fine, I had to check the water tube running to the ice maker. It was fine and water was waiting to go somewhere! I decided to pull the icemaker out of the fridge to see what I could fine. Once it was out, I took the ICEMAKER CONTROL AND MOTOR ASSEMBLY off (that's the side part with the dial on it). Only 3 screws to take that off, and it was EASY to see what was wrong once I took that off. There was a connection that was obviously bad (looked almost like it had burned out). My thought was that it was obvious what part was bad, what would it hurt for me to try to fix it myself? When I got online to find the part, PartSelect was the only one that I found that had the EXACT part that I needed, and lucky for me, there were multiple pictures of multiple angles of the part so I could compare and make sure I had the right one!! The part with shipping cost less than the cost of a repair tech to even come out and look at the fridge. Then add the cost of the part and labor if I had the repair tech fix it...I probably saved about $250!!!!

Replacment of Ice/Water Filter

  • Customer: Robert from Mount Prospect IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
The first step was to go to PartSelect.com to find where the filter is located because that is not revealed in Whirlpool's Guide. This refrigerator came with the home I had just puchased so Iwas unfamiliar with the filter replacement. Th filter is on the grill at the bottom of the refrigerator. I followed the instructions helpfully printed on the replacement cartridge box which arrived in less than the 3-5 days acknowledged on my order.

Turn the filter handle 1/4 turn counterclockwise. Don't be timid. It was very tight (probably had not been replaced ever). Remove the filter from the handle that protrudes through the grill at the bottom of the front of the refrigerator.

Insert the new cartridge into the filter handle insert snugly until it goes no further and turn 1/4 clockwise.

The instructions on the replacement cartridge tell you to run the water for 5 minutes to remove air and sediment from the system. DO NOT skip this step. I was. I discovered a large amount of sediment after even three minutes of flushing. A 5-gallon pale will help. And don't forget to turn off the ice maker while you are flushing. Otherwise you will end up with ice cubes everywhere as you try to position the bucket under the water dispenser.

Wasn't making ice

  • Customer: Albert from Centereach NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Took off door to ice maker. Unscrewed 1 nut. Slid out unit. Unplugged electrical connector. Unsrewed 3 nuts from bottom of old unit & attached mounting bracket to new unit. Reconnected electric connector. Slid back in. Put screw back in. Put icemaker door back on. Turned icemaker on. Ice in 20 minutes!

filter cap missing

  • Customer: Beth from Jupiter FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 14 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
insert and turn!

Frige Door Wouldn't Stay Closed, Would open when freezer door was closed.

  • Customer: Michael from Las Vegas NV
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Parts arrived at 2:30PM.

Read instructions, gathered tools, and went to work. I'd already watched an online video at your site on how to do the repair.

Removed the hinge cover covering the hinge top by using a nut driver to remove the single screw holding it in place. (The video described an older frige and it did not have a screw. I figured that out when I finally went and got a ladder. I had tried to pop it out like the video shows.) There are three screws holding the hinge top in place. I tried using the nut driver to remove the screws but they were pretty firmly in place. I resorted to using my ratchet wrench and that made it easy. (Keep track of your screws, one of mine rolled under a cereal box on top of the frige and I thought I would never find it.)

I had emptied out all the items on the door of the frige, removing the shelves. It was easy to lift the door off of the bottom hinge and lay it on its side against the ladder. At this point I had my son hold the door steady (its kind of unwieldy and 'slippery' when you are trying to remove a screw from the bottom of the door.)

I removed the screw that held the plastic Door Closer, Upper Cam using the nut driver. I used a straight bladed screw driver to pry the old part out of the door (it has an insert for the hinge pin and it had been in place a long time). I also cleaned off the bottom of the frige door (you would be surprised what gets stuck on there - obviously someone spilled oranged juice on the floor and it splashed up on the bottom of the door). The old part had a lot of particle dust that came off it when I removed it. The new part popped right into place and I screwed it back in. The video shows that the repairman had to use a drill and tap set to rethread a larger hole but I just put the old screw back and it held fine. The video also showed the repairman adjusting the Door Stop Bracket but I didn't have to do that, the new cam installation wasn't impeded by the bracket.

I moved to the frige cabinet (again, good to have a second pair of hands to keep track of the door and not let it get damaged while I turned my attention to the Door Closer, Lower Cam. I used the nut driver to remove the screw holdin it to the hinge bottom. It came off easily (it practically fell apart and turned to dust). I placed the new cam and screwed it in using the old screw. No problem.

You could put the door back on with one person but it helps to have two. One to manhandle the door and the other to place it on the lower hinge post.

I put the upper hinge back on and put in the three screws but I left them lose so that I could adjust the door. When I tighted the single screw closest to the door after positioning the door, we tested how it opened and it was hitting the side of the interior cabinet when it closed - you could feel it dragging and it made a clunk/swoosh sound. We readjusted the door using the outside upper corner as a guide and retightened the screw. This time there was no problem. We tighted the other two screws using the ratchet wrench and then put the plastic hinge cover back on with the single screw using the nut driver.

Took us about 25 minutes and made my wife very happy (biggest benefit). The door now 'locks' open and 'locks' closed just like when we bought it and the two doors are aligned (level accross the top) which should have been a dead giveaway that the door closing cams had worn down.

Done by 3:00PM.
All Instructions for the KSCS25FKSS01
46-60 of 1127