Quick Question!

Have you ever purchased from PartSelect.com before?

Models > KSCS25FKSS01 > Instructions

KSCS25FKSS01 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for KSCS25FKSS01 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the KSCS25FKSS01
46-60 of 1,189
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

One finger of the spring steel peice that holds the ice maker and water dispenser levers out broke.

  • Customer: Ron from Newton, IA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 27 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the screw holding the spring steel retainer/clip using a quarter inch ratchet wrench a swivel with a quarter inch socket and a short extention, then just installed the new one. This spring steal through the door ice maker / water despenser lever spring was an easy fix.
I found you by googling appliance repair parts, and found your site really easy to use. I couldn't believe how fast the part came and the very reasonable price. I put you on my web browser's favorites.
Thanks,
Ron

The icemaker stopped filling the ice tray to make ice.

  • Customer: shannon from sierra vista, AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 25 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
I checked the fuses and hoses in the back of the refrigerator to make sure water WAS in fact getting to the front of the fridge. Since the water through the front door worked fine, I had to check the water tube running to the ice maker. It was fine and water was waiting to go somewhere! I decided to pull the icemaker out of the fridge to see what I could fine. Once it was out, I took the ICEMAKER CONTROL AND MOTOR ASSEMBLY off (that's the side part with the dial on it). Only 3 screws to take that off, and it was EASY to see what was wrong once I took that off. There was a connection that was obviously bad (looked almost like it had burned out). My thought was that it was obvious what part was bad, what would it hurt for me to try to fix it myself? When I got online to find the part, PartSelect was the only one that I found that had the EXACT part that I needed, and lucky for me, there were multiple pictures of multiple angles of the part so I could compare and make sure I had the right one!! The part with shipping cost less than the cost of a repair tech to even come out and look at the fridge. Then add the cost of the part and labor if I had the repair tech fix it...I probably saved about $250!!!!

water filter cap broke when extracting old filter

  • Customer: John from North Andover, MA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 25 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
ordered new filter cap, installed on new filter and reinstalled in refrigerator

no electricity going from inverter to compressor

  • Customer: s. from fort lauderdale, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 35 of 61 people found this instruction helpful
pulled out inverter box, opened up and located burned components in circuit board. rolled the dice bought new one and installed. the terminal leading from inverter didn't match the terminal coming from the compressor . cut both off and supplied my own junction terminal.

Auto Defrost Freezer keeps defrosting SIDE BY SIDE KITCHENAID

  • Customer: James from Ringoes, NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 24 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
DISCONNECT POWER. Removed all shelves/baskets.Popped upper panel off (just clips in) Removed 6 screws in lower back panel ( 3 each side) slid panel in place but down. You can then easily see the defrost thermostat/defrost termination switch. Cut the wire connectors (pink n brown wire) stripped back wire, attached new defrost thermostat. Thermostat clips on. New thermostat ohm's at 5.5, old one was "open". Slid cover back up meeting the upper cover grooves. Screwed lower panel in. Put shelves etc back in. Plugged in. Turns on, put a bottle of water in freezer. Checked a while later, frozen. has been frozen for a week.
-James

motor coupling weld broken

  • Customer: HAROLD from SPRING HOPE, NC
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 22 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
Removed four screws from ice maker motor/light support.Then unplugged electrical plug from side of freezer.Used two slip joint pliers to remove coupler from motor shaft. installed new coupler to shaft hand tight as will tighten as motor is run.Then reversed tear down order.
Ice dispenser works better than when we first got the refrigerator

Persistent leaks in the water/ice making supply system

  • Customer: John from Germantown, TN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 29 of 45 people found this instruction helpful
My attempt to repair a leak in the water supply lines merely generated other leaks. It became obvious that the whole supply and filtration system should be replaced. 1. Turn off water supply and unplug the refrigerator. 2. Remove the fiber cover from the lower rear of the refrigerator. 3. Disconnect nylon supply tubing at the supply spigot and at the water valve near the rear of the refrigerator. Both of these tubes connect to the filter housing. 4. Remove the grille at the front of the refrigerator under door. 5. Removing the front grille gives access to the front of the filter housing Remove the two screws holding the filter housing in place. 6. Remove the filter housing with both nylon water tubes as an assembly. Some coaxing may be necessary, because there is no clearance between the bottom of the refrigerator and the front cross-member. Rotate the assembly about 1/4 turn clockwise as the assembly is withdrawn. 7. Install the new tubes into the new filter housing. 8. Install the assembly into the front of the refrigerator, reversing the removal procedure. 9. Either remove the old filter from the old housing and install it in the new housing or replace the filter. 9. Turn on the water and check for leaks. While the refrigerator is open, use this opportunity to clean the condensor coils. 10. If there are no leaks, replace the front grille and the fiber cover on the back of the refrigerator. 11. Turn on the power.

Frige Door Wouldn't Stay Closed, Would open when freezer door was closed.

  • Customer: Michael from Las Vegas, NV
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 22 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
Parts arrived at 2:30PM.

Read instructions, gathered tools, and went to work. I'd already watched an online video at your site on how to do the repair.

Removed the hinge cover covering the hinge top by using a nut driver to remove the single screw holding it in place. (The video described an older frige and it did not have a screw. I figured that out when I finally went and got a ladder. I had tried to pop it out like the video shows.) There are three screws holding the hinge top in place. I tried using the nut driver to remove the screws but they were pretty firmly in place. I resorted to using my ratchet wrench and that made it easy. (Keep track of your screws, one of mine rolled under a cereal box on top of the frige and I thought I would never find it.)

I had emptied out all the items on the door of the frige, removing the shelves. It was easy to lift the door off of the bottom hinge and lay it on its side against the ladder. At this point I had my son hold the door steady (its kind of unwieldy and 'slippery' when you are trying to remove a screw from the bottom of the door.)

I removed the screw that held the plastic Door Closer, Upper Cam using the nut driver. I used a straight bladed screw driver to pry the old part out of the door (it has an insert for the hinge pin and it had been in place a long time). I also cleaned off the bottom of the frige door (you would be surprised what gets stuck on there - obviously someone spilled oranged juice on the floor and it splashed up on the bottom of the door). The old part had a lot of particle dust that came off it when I removed it. The new part popped right into place and I screwed it back in. The video shows that the repairman had to use a drill and tap set to rethread a larger hole but I just put the old screw back and it held fine. The video also showed the repairman adjusting the Door Stop Bracket but I didn't have to do that, the new cam installation wasn't impeded by the bracket.

I moved to the frige cabinet (again, good to have a second pair of hands to keep track of the door and not let it get damaged while I turned my attention to the Door Closer, Lower Cam. I used the nut driver to remove the screw holdin it to the hinge bottom. It came off easily (it practically fell apart and turned to dust). I placed the new cam and screwed it in using the old screw. No problem.

You could put the door back on with one person but it helps to have two. One to manhandle the door and the other to place it on the lower hinge post.

I put the upper hinge back on and put in the three screws but I left them lose so that I could adjust the door. When I tighted the single screw closest to the door after positioning the door, we tested how it opened and it was hitting the side of the interior cabinet when it closed - you could feel it dragging and it made a clunk/swoosh sound. We readjusted the door using the outside upper corner as a guide and retightened the screw. This time there was no problem. We tighted the other two screws using the ratchet wrench and then put the plastic hinge cover back on with the single screw using the nut driver.

Took us about 25 minutes and made my wife very happy (biggest benefit). The door now 'locks' open and 'locks' closed just like when we bought it and the two doors are aligned (level accross the top) which should have been a dead giveaway that the door closing cams had worn down.

Done by 3:00PM.

plastic gear broke off - cubes not getting kicked out

  • Customer: Laurence from Middleton, WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 21 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
removed the three screw holding the broken unit - pulled off the old module.

Before I could install new module I had to loosen some fasteners on ice maker so I could turn shaft to align with new module.

Then push on new unit and three screws. Had tumbling ice in about an hour. My wife thinks I'm a hero. (I am)

water filter needed changed

  • Customer: Gerald from Findlay, OH
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 22 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
Turned the lock knob on the filter and removed. put
lock knob on new filter and installed.

Very user friendly website, would highly recommend to anyone.

The black plastic or teflon coating on the ice mold was coming off in flakes and freezing in the ice cubes

  • Customer: Roger from Sunnyvale, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 24 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
I took out the ice collection box and auger to get access to the three screws holding the ice maker assembly against the left wall of the freezer. You can use a screwdriver or a nut driver. I then unpluged the assembly and wiggled it loose from the water fill tube. I assumed that unplugging the unit would disable the water valve but I put a plastic tub under the fill tube just in case. I studied the assembly on the kitchen table for a few minutes before I disasembled it. After removing a snapon plastick cover I removed three or four screws on the gearbox and was able to pull and wiggle the parts apart. The heater contacts have rubber O rings so you have to be firm pulling the mould out of and into the gearbox mount. Make sure it is fully seated. On reassembly note that the ice kicking arm is notched so it fits into the gearbox only one way and it helps to have it in position when you screw the gearbox back on. I also found the plastic ice guide that fits on top of the mold a little awkward in snaping back together. Make sure its fingers space evenly with the ice kicking arms.

Ice maker would only deliver crushed ice not cube's

  • Customer: MICHAEL from NORTH PORT, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 28 of 44 people found this instruction helpful
Switched Electric breaker to off. Removed all food and ice cube tray from freezer. Remove 4 screws on soleniod cover in rear of freezer. Removed two screws, two elec connectors from old soleniod and removed. Installed new soleniod. Reinstalled elec connectors and screws, ice cube tray and food. Turned breaker on . Ice maker worked properly.

Ice Dispenser won't eject ice cubes

  • Customer: Richard from Lynchburg, VA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 26 of 38 people found this instruction helpful
I assumed the motor had burned out. I removed the 4 hex-head screws to remove the bracket holding the motor. I had to squeeze the electrical fitting to the motor located in the right rear of the compartment in order to electrically disconnect the motor, since the lower part of the fitting has a latch that prevents its easy removal. Then I could insert a vice grips on the shaft and on the coupling in order to (reverse) unscrew the coupling from the motor. I initially received the wrong replacement motor, but when the correct one arrived, it installed on the mounting bracket easily and I reinstalled the bracket with motor easily. It turns out a new motor did NOT fix the problem, so I'm not sure what to do now.

The filter needed to be replaced

  • Customer: Eva from Arlington, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 23 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the old filter (it screws out) an put the new one in!

Water dispenser not working, Ice dispenser chute icing up

  • Customer: Jeff from Parchment, MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 22 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the outer ice/water dispenser cover following directions I found on-line (push down and gently pry out at the bottom). I then removed several nut-head screws which were holding a plastic plate which had the door light and electric control wiring mounted in it. Behind that I found a broken tab on the Control Bracket which was why my water dispencer was not working and I found the chute door for the ice maker was chewed up which allowed warm air into the chute and was causing my ice build up problem. Replacing the Control Bracket was easy. Just note how things come apart. Putting the chute door in was a little more complicated, but again, note how things come apart and you should not have a problem putting it back together.
All Instructions for the KSCS25FKSS01
46-60 of 1,189