KHWV01RSS0 KitchenAid Washer - Instructions

The first step is to remove the retainer ring that holds the outside of the bellow in place.
To do this, Open the washer door as far as you can to get it out of the way. look underneath of the front of the bellow on the outside of the washer where it meets the door. Put your head almost on the floor and look up.
You will find a spring streached about 3" connected to a small diameter wire (1mm.) that runs all the way around the outside portion of the bellow.
Use a small screwdriver or other to pull and pry the spring away from the rubber bellow. Be careful not to damage the spring or ring. Once you have grip on it, pull it carefully toward you then up and off of the bellow.

The front portion of the bellow is now free and can be peeled off. Start at any point and pull the rubber bellow in toward the opening of the washer, it comes off easily.
When you get to the detergent outlet on the upper left side, grab the plastic tube and carefully pull the bellow from around it. There is no adhesive or clamp holding this in place, just friction. Remove the rest of the front portion of the bellow.
Push as much of the bellow into the washer as possible to get it out of the way.

Once this is off comes the slightly tricky part. Look up at the top right portion of the bellow that is still attached. You may need to feel with your hand but you should be able to see it. You are looking for the screw/nut end of a giant hose clamp. This hose clamp goes around the entire bellow and the secures it to the portion that holds the basket.
This is where the stubby screw driver comes in handy. There is not nearly enough room for a standard one and a nut driver or wratchet are too big. The nut will be pointing down and will need to be replaced the same way.
Loosen the hose clamp almost all of the way, not necessary to have the hose clamp come completely apart.
You can now remove the entire hose clamp from around the bellow by pulling it forward.
You will need to remove the hose clamp from the washer. To do this, squeeze it in from the sides about 6", don't kink it. Push it down toward the floor between the basket and the metal front panel. You will now be able to remove it from the top of the opening and be able to pull the bottom portion out.
Pull the old bellow completely out, very easy to do.

Time to install the new bellow. Figure out which side goes in and which faces out. The big hint is that the water inlet is on the upper left side.
You will notice at the top of the bellow on the portion that goes inside of the washer, you will find a small triangular shaped tab about 1/4" high. This is your centering mark. This will be at the very top. If you keep this at the top, everything will line up perfectly.

Slip the bellow over the edge of the portion that holds the basket where you removed the old one. I started at the top and worked left so I could install the detergent inlet tube. Pull this through the bellow carefully. It doesn't take a lot of force.
As you are pressing the bellow on this lip, you will notice that there is a 1/2" high back stop all of the way around. This is great because as you press it on, there is a positive stop and you can't go further than necessary. Continue to press it in all of the way around.

Now it is time to install the Hose clamp. Un bend anything that might have bent on the clamp. With the nut at the top or top right with the nut facing down to the floor while holding it vertically, squish it slightly inward, put the bottom portion in first then the top portion. Orient is as it was when you took it off. Slide it around the bellow. You will feel a positive stop.
Grab the stubby screwdriver and tighten down the hose clamp. I did about a medium force when tightening. It doesn't take a lot of force.

Now it is time to pull the remaining part of the bellow out of the basket and fit it into place. Press it around the outside portion of the opening so it hooks over the lip. This w

I first removed the back panel held on by about 10 screws. I removed the drive belt from the pulley, then removed the lock nut securing the pulley to the drum & removed the pulley. Attached the new pulley to the drum, tightened on the lock nut, attached the new belt & ran a spin cycle. When that went OK I replaced the back panel & the washer was back in service.

First, unplug the power cord to avoid electric shock!

Then:
1. Open the drawers in the sub-base, remove the screws on the left and right side rails, and remove the drawer.

2. Remove the three torx head screws along the bottom of the front cabinet cover and remove the cover.

NOTE: There are sharp metal edges exposed inside of the cabinet. A heavy long sleeve shirt and gloves are recomended when working in this area to prevent injury.


3. With a pair of pliers, grip the end of the front right shock absorber near the attachment point and rotate counter-clockwise. Repeat procedure at other end of shock absorber. (note: this may destroy the plastic end of the shock absorber, but you're going to replace it with a new one anyway.)

4. With the front shock absorber out of the way, you can now reach the rear shock absorber on the same side and repeat the removal procedure. (note: Be sure to take note of which end of the shock absorber is up and which end is down. This will be important when installing the new ones.)

5. Install the new rear shock absorber by first inserting the lower end into the slot in the base plate and rotating it 1/4 turn clockwise by hand. it should snap into place easily. Then insert the upper end into the plastic drum attachment point and rotate it 1/4 turn clockwise.

6. Install the new front shock absorber by the same procedure, then procede to the left side shock absorbers using steps 3, 4, & 5.

Note: While the cabinet is open, now is a good time to clean out the pump strainer located front and center.

7. Re-install the front cabinet cover using the three torx head screws. (note: the machine will not operate without the cabinet cover in place.)

8. Adjust the leveling legs so that the machine is level and each leg supports an equal amount of the machine's weight.

9. Reinstall the sub-base drawer and plug in the power cord.

First I removed the screws and the plastic slide clips to remove the back plate. I then went to the lower right of the washer and found the motor control unit. It has about four plus going into it. The front inside mount of the control unit has a clip on it that must be pushed so you can pull the unit free of the bottom of the machine. Once the control unit was free I flipped open the plug cover with a screwdriver which just snaps over the plugs. I then removed the plugs from the unit carefully so I didn't break them. It was a tight work space and I had to pop out some of the clips that hold the wire harness in place to get some slack in the wires. I then pushed up on the washing drum which gave me enough room to slide to old unit out and get the new one in. Then just reconnect the plugs, plug cover, snap the unit back into place, refit and wire harness clips that where removed, and place the back panel of the machine back on. I tested mine before putting the back panel on and it completely solved the problem. Note that there are 2 control units in this machine 1. motor control and 2. the central control located behind the display. I was told it could have been either one of them, but after some research I chose the motor control unit since it seemed to be a problem with the tachometer sensor which is read through the motor control unit.

removed washer top, checked supply hoses and inlet valve to make sure not clogged, replaced valve and while already there replaced flowmeter, reinstall top and hoses and checked machine operation, machine working fine and wife thinks i am her hero

I removed the outer tub clamp using two needle-nosed pliers. Then I folded the bellow back and removed the bellow from the dispensing outlet. I then losened the bellow clamp using a screw driver. It was on there very securely. Then I had my daughter with her smaller hands finish untightening the screw enough to release the bellows from the machine. Then the bellow and clamp were taken out of the machine carefully, not scratching anything and noting orientation for new bellow. I cleaned the machine surfaces. Next, lining up the top notch on the bellow, it was worked into the groove around the entire inner basket. The bellow also had to have the hole covering placed over the dispensing outlet. This was the most time consuming. Just to make certain that it was positioned correctly took 20 minutes. I then put the bellow clamp back on and tightened it to the very tight positioned it was in prior to being removed. My daughter returned to help with the smaller bellow clamp that goes to the front of the machine. I needed help keeping one side of the clamp in placed while the other side was stretched out again to go onto the bellow. Then the machine was leveled top to back, side to side, leg nuts tightened. Works quieter than ever.

I snapped the piece into place. It took two people to do the job....one to hold the washer basket from moving and the other to snap it in place. It did take some hard pushing but it worked out great!!!! The repair man quoted me $130.00 for the installation only. And I installed myself it in less than 5 minutes!

lickity split

Removed the top (3-4 screws at back). Flowmeter has 2 hoses with hose clamps. Removed with plyers. Simple electrical connector removed.

Reversed procedure. Running perfect now.

How did I know it was the flow-meter? Read the service manual as possible causes to narrow it down. Disassembled old flowmeter and cleaned. That fixed for awhile. Problem came back, could 'tap' on flowmeter to temporarily fix. This convinced me that was indeed the problem.

The flowmeter is just a simple vane that moves as water flows across it, and sends pulses each time it rotates. If it 'sticks' then the computer doesn't think any water is coming in - hence the error. Tapping on it would 'unstick' long enough to confirm problem.

Opened the front panel with 3 crews T-25 or socket wrench. Panel comes off right away.

Look for the leak. Determined it was the hose. Use power pliers to remove the clamp.

The small clamp was easy. The big one I had to use my yoga to get to it. It probably would had been easy from the back panel but moving the machine requires brute force.

Once the hose was out I found some bra under wires which is what probably punctured the hose.

Removed the front filter and found a bunch of nails.

Assembly was much easier and placed clamps so that if needed it would be a lot easier to remove and replace.

Removed bellow clamp (used screwdriver to pry clamp open). Removed Bellow to Outer Tub Clamp with socket set. Removed Bellow. I had purchased new clamps as I didn't know condition of the old clamps. The Bellow to Outer Tub Clamp was in good condition, appeared to have an anodized finish - was not corroded and the tightening screw pointed forward where as the new clamp appeared to be galvanized and the tightening screw paralled the clamp. I assumed the new orientation of the tightening screw was to make it easier to tighten with a screwdriver, but space is limited and I had good success removing the old clamp with a socket set so I elected to reuse the old clamp. Plus, I liked the finish of the old clamp better - it had zero corrosion on it after several years, almost a decade, of use.
Reinstalling the bellow was the hardest part of the repair - it is just tedious and patience is required - I took a couple of breaks seating the Bellow to the outer tub. There was a tab on the Bellow which went to the top to insure the Bellow was properly aligned. After I seated the bead of the Bellow all the way around, I slipped the Bellow to Outer Tub Clamp over the Bellow and tightened it down - continually checking the seating of the Bellow. I then put the Bellow over the water inlet tube and seated the outer portion of the Bellow. I needed additional hands to help hold the outer clamp in place - my wife helped - and I used pliers and plastic pry wedges from a tire patch repair kit to pull it open and slip it over the Bellow - I didn't want to use screwdrives as I was afraid I would damage the Bellow.

Ran diagnostics for this model (you can look for its service manual on the web which details how to do this). The diagnostics said the cold water inlet valve or the flow-meter were broken. To pin the issue down to one component, I switched the cold/hot water control cables going into the inlet valve assembly and switched the cold/hot water hoses. Ran diagnostics again and the cold water and flow meter passed but got a failure on the hot water inlet valve. This pointed to a bad cold-water inlet valve. I ordered a replacement at PartsSelect. Installation took less than ten minutes. Machine runs like a dream. Before all this I called a service center, and without even looking at the machine, they quoted no less than $300. But with a little reading and some sleuth work, I ended up paying only $70 for the part + S/H.

Like most folks, my daughter has tossed the shipping bolts after her puechase, I moved her the first time w/o any thought to it but commercial movers won't do that, they will chg. you to have it done and it's not cheap, akin to an appliance repair. This kit contains all four bolts/spacers, (2) upper and (2) lower. Hard to tell from the decription but a sweet gal on the help desk assured me of it. Got it fast and got them installed in minutes, easy to do and wrote a big note on the back of the washer to save them!! No idea why your owners book says "do not reuse".

1st I removed the front retaining ring. You do need to get down near the ground to see the retaining ring. I used two pairs of needle nosed pliers to pull the ring apart (which has a spring in the middle) and then removed the ring.

Then I pushed the bellows into the washing machine drum, pulled the water inlet valve from the bellows, and used a short flat blade screwdriver to remove the retaining band (upper right of the bellows) After doing this it was a simple matter to remove the whole unit.

I did find it was easier to remove the washing machine door.

The installation was a simple matter of reversing the above. I had no problems with this repair. I would STRONGLY suggest, unless you are one of those gifted 3 handed people, getting an assistant to push the outer retaining ring into place as you separate the spring.

Simple, easy repair.

I found a you tube video with step by step instructions. Very easy to follow. Repair would have been quicker had my kids not been at home. I had to have my boyfriend help me put on the outer bellow spring clamp, as I was not strong enough. Washer works great.