Models > KHWS02RMT3 > Instructions

KHWS02RMT3 KitchenAid Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for KHWS02RMT3 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the KHWS02RMT3
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Bellows were moldy, needed to replace

  • Customer: Franck from Annandale VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 216 of 232 people found this instruction helpful
The first step is to remove the retainer ring that holds the outside of the bellow in place.
To do this, Open the washer door as far as you can to get it out of the way. look underneath of the front of the bellow on the outside of the washer where it meets the door. Put your head almost on the floor and look up.
You will find a spring streached about 3" connected to a small diameter wire (1mm.) that runs all the way around the outside portion of the bellow.
Use a small screwdriver or other to pull and pry the spring away from the rubber bellow. Be careful not to damage the spring or ring. Once you have grip on it, pull it carefully toward you then up and off of the bellow.

The front portion of the bellow is now free and can be peeled off. Start at any point and pull the rubber bellow in toward the opening of the washer, it comes off easily.
When you get to the detergent outlet on the upper left side, grab the plastic tube and carefully pull the bellow from around it. There is no adhesive or clamp holding this in place, just friction. Remove the rest of the front portion of the bellow.
Push as much of the bellow into the washer as possible to get it out of the way.

Once this is off comes the slightly tricky part. Look up at the top right portion of the bellow that is still attached. You may need to feel with your hand but you should be able to see it. You are looking for the screw/nut end of a giant hose clamp. This hose clamp goes around the entire bellow and the secures it to the portion that holds the basket.
This is where the stubby screw driver comes in handy. There is not nearly enough room for a standard one and a nut driver or wratchet are too big. The nut will be pointing down and will need to be replaced the same way.
Loosen the hose clamp almost all of the way, not necessary to have the hose clamp come completely apart.
You can now remove the entire hose clamp from around the bellow by pulling it forward.
You will need to remove the hose clamp from the washer. To do this, squeeze it in from the sides about 6", don't kink it. Push it down toward the floor between the basket and the metal front panel. You will now be able to remove it from the top of the opening and be able to pull the bottom portion out.
Pull the old bellow completely out, very easy to do.

Time to install the new bellow. Figure out which side goes in and which faces out. The big hint is that the water inlet is on the upper left side.
You will notice at the top of the bellow on the portion that goes inside of the washer, you will find a small triangular shaped tab about 1/4" high. This is your centering mark. This will be at the very top. If you keep this at the top, everything will line up perfectly.

Slip the bellow over the edge of the portion that holds the basket where you removed the old one. I started at the top and worked left so I could install the detergent inlet tube. Pull this through the bellow carefully. It doesn't take a lot of force.
As you are pressing the bellow on this lip, you will notice that there is a 1/2" high back stop all of the way around. This is great because as you press it on, there is a positive stop and you can't go further than necessary. Continue to press it in all of the way around.

Now it is time to install the Hose clamp. Un bend anything that might have bent on the clamp. With the nut at the top or top right with the nut facing down to the floor while holding it vertically, squish it slightly inward, put the bottom portion in first then the top portion. Orient is as it was when you took it off. Slide it around the bellow. You will feel a positive stop.
Grab the stubby screwdriver and tighten down the hose clamp. I did about a medium force when tightening. It doesn't take a lot of force.

Now it is time to pull the remaining part of the bellow out of the basket and fit it into place. Press it around the outside portion of the opening so it hooks over the lip. This w

Washer would not drain ,F02 and SUD code displaying

  • Customer: Donald from Wichita KS
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 110 of 114 people found this instruction helpful
(1) First I unpluged the washer then I removed the water from the tube with a water vac.(2) Then I removed the three (3) screws that holds the front panel, using a Torx T-20 socket. ( this is a front load washer ). The panel is below the loading door.
(3) I packed towels under the washer.
(4) I slowly removed the cleanout in the front of the pump, using the water vac to catch the water as it leaked out.
(5) I removed the wiring to the motor.
(6) I removed the screw that holds the pump in place with a Torx T-20 socket.
(7) I pulled the pump forward so the clamps that hold the drain hose and discharge hose could be removed using the hose clamp pliers. ( they come off much easier then they go back on ).
(8) I tested the pump and found it would run but was making a lot of noise and running slow.
(9) To reinstall start with number (7) and work backwards to number (1) skipping (3) and (4).
Don Kramer
Wichita, Kansas

front load washer latch replacement

  • Customer: James from Vilonia AR
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 89 of 102 people found this instruction helpful
1. remove the three screws from the top backside of the top panel
2. push the top panel to the rear 1/8 to 1/4 inch
3. lift/rotate top panel from rear to front, set aside.
4. remove the three wire connectors from latch.
5. use #15 Torx to remove the three screws from the latch.
6. remove and replace part using top opening.
7. reverse order to finish.

My washer would not always finsh the cycle (most of the time it would run between 2 and 30 minutes) and then the time display would flash and the washer would shut down and beep. An f06 fault code flashed in the display.

  • Customer: Bradley from Red Wing MN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 66 of 74 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the screws and the plastic slide clips to remove the back plate. I then went to the lower right of the washer and found the motor control unit. It has about four plus going into it. The front inside mount of the control unit has a clip on it that must be pushed so you can pull the unit free of the bottom of the machine. Once the control unit was free I flipped open the plug cover with a screwdriver which just snaps over the plugs. I then removed the plugs from the unit carefully so I didn't break them. It was a tight work space and I had to pop out some of the clips that hold the wire harness in place to get some slack in the wires. I then pushed up on the washing drum which gave me enough room to slide to old unit out and get the new one in. Then just reconnect the plugs, plug cover, snap the unit back into place, refit and wire harness clips that where removed, and place the back panel of the machine back on. I tested mine before putting the back panel on and it completely solved the problem. Note that there are 2 control units in this machine 1. motor control and 2. the central control located behind the display. I was told it could have been either one of them, but after some research I chose the motor control unit since it seemed to be a problem with the tachometer sensor which is read through the motor control unit.

Washer made loud banging noise during spin cycle

  • Customer: Francis from Rochester NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 52 of 63 people found this instruction helpful
I first removed the back panel held on by about 10 screws. I removed the drive belt from the pulley, then removed the lock nut securing the pulley to the drum & removed the pulley. Attached the new pulley to the drum, tightened on the lock nut, attached the new belt & ran a spin cycle. When that went OK I replaced the back panel & the washer was back in service.

Door lock was in the locked position and door could not close

  • Customer: Suryakant from Cortlandt Manor NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 35 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
I bought a new door lock for 132 dollars (item number PS2037196).

Ultimately you have to get to the inside of the machine where the door lock is located in order to see if you will need this door lock that I bought.

DISCONNECT POWER FROM MACHINE.

First take off the top by taking off the 2 screws on the back of the machine.

Second take off the control panel, I believe there are about 5 or 6 screws for that.
(there's also a screw when you open up the detergent compartment on the bottom left- also, a lever must be pushed in order for the compartment to come off- it MUST be taken off).

Third unscrew the top of the front white plate.. there should be a 5 or 6 screws for that.
You don't need to take off the entire front plate.

Finally unscrew 3 screws that hold the door lock in place .. make sure your hands is in the machine- the back of door lock to catch the lock when you're on the last screw.

Gently take out the door lock from the side with the cables attached by holding the white metal door open (it bends).

Try to pull on the bottom of the door lock (its a manual release). If it doesn't release you need to buy a new door lock like I did... if it does release then you don't need a door lock and just reassemble.
(Note: You can also try plugging in the machine and THEN pulling down on the manual release. When I tried this the door lock just vibrated and nothing happened so I bought a new door lock.)

If you have the new door lock continue here:

Take out all 3 cables on the old door lock by pressing on the corresponding clips.

Attach the new door lock with the correct cables. Assemble machine back together.

Thats it.

Clothing ripped my bellow.

  • Customer: Lydia from Cincinnati OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 33 of 40 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the outer tub clamp using two needle-nosed pliers. Then I folded the bellow back and removed the bellow from the dispensing outlet. I then losened the bellow clamp using a screw driver. It was on there very securely. Then I had my daughter with her smaller hands finish untightening the screw enough to release the bellows from the machine. Then the bellow and clamp were taken out of the machine carefully, not scratching anything and noting orientation for new bellow. I cleaned the machine surfaces. Next, lining up the top notch on the bellow, it was worked into the groove around the entire inner basket. The bellow also had to have the hole covering placed over the dispensing outlet. This was the most time consuming. Just to make certain that it was positioned correctly took 20 minutes. I then put the bellow clamp back on and tightened it to the very tight positioned it was in prior to being removed. My daughter returned to help with the smaller bellow clamp that goes to the front of the machine. I needed help keeping one side of the clamp in placed while the other side was stretched out again to go onto the bellow. Then the machine was leveled top to back, side to side, leg nuts tightened. Works quieter than ever.

washing machine giving f20 error code

  • Customer: Jerry from Keenes IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 30 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
removed washer top, checked supply hoses and inlet valve to make sure not clogged, replaced valve and while already there replaced flowmeter, reinstall top and hoses and checked machine operation, machine working fine and wife thinks i am her hero

Water still in tub / tub would not spin

  • Customer: Bob from Clayton NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 28 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
Don't know how they managed to get out of the washer tub, but we found a quarter, dime and penny in the "lint" filter (called the "Cap" in the PartSelect details). The penny managed to get into the impeller and took out 3 1/2 of the 4 impeller blades.

Replacement is very simple, about a 15-20 minute job Be sure the machine is unplugged for safety.Remove the three (3) screws holding the lower front panel and remove the panel. The pump assembly is a white unit about the middle of the opening (the original pump itself was black, the new one is white). Unscrewing the large cap will allow any residual water to drain out (we used a wet/dry shop vac to get most of the water out of the tub first). Following the wires going to the pump, there is a cover over the wiring connector that easily pops up and the connector can be pulled out. Directly below the unit is a screw with a Torx head that has to be removed, then two (2) hoses held with compression hose clamps that need to be removed with pliers. The unit will slide out of the base of the washer. There is a wiring harness in front of this assembly that can be popped loose on one side or the other to get the unit out.

Reversing the steps gets everything back in place.

NOTE: A notice came with my new pump stating that a tab needed to be removed on the wiring connector. It is easily removed by hand.

By the way - that was the most expensive penny I've ever owned! Pockets in jeans are now required to be turned out in our house before they are allowed in the washer!

F/H error code.

  • Customer: Jeff from Naples FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 30 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the top (3-4 screws at back). Flowmeter has 2 hoses with hose clamps. Removed with plyers. Simple electrical connector removed.

Reversed procedure. Running perfect now.

How did I know it was the flow-meter? Read the service manual as possible causes to narrow it down. Disassembled old flowmeter and cleaned. That fixed for awhile. Problem came back, could 'tap' on flowmeter to temporarily fix. This convinced me that was indeed the problem.

The flowmeter is just a simple vane that moves as water flows across it, and sends pulses each time it rotates. If it 'sticks' then the computer doesn't think any water is coming in - hence the error. Tapping on it would 'unstick' long enough to confirm problem.

Washer baffle broke off

  • Customer: Carole from Colorado City AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 27 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
I snapped the piece into place. It took two people to do the job....one to hold the washer basket from moving and the other to snap it in place. It did take some hard pushing but it worked out great!!!! The repair man quoted me $130.00 for the installation only. And I installed myself it in less than 5 minutes!

The Washer became unbalanced and broke the latch on door

  • Customer: Glenn from Las Vegaas NM
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 26 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
Had to take the entire front of the washer off to replace the door latch.

Front Seal Leaked

  • Customer: Charles from Gonzales CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 20 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
1st I removed the front retaining ring. You do need to get down near the ground to see the retaining ring. I used two pairs of needle nosed pliers to pull the ring apart (which has a spring in the middle) and then removed the ring.

Then I pushed the bellows into the washing machine drum, pulled the water inlet valve from the bellows, and used a short flat blade screwdriver to remove the retaining band (upper right of the bellows) After doing this it was a simple matter to remove the whole unit.

I did find it was easier to remove the washing machine door.

The installation was a simple matter of reversing the above. I had no problems with this repair. I would STRONGLY suggest, unless you are one of those gifted 3 handed people, getting an assistant to push the outer retaining ring into place as you separate the spring.

Simple, easy repair.

Washer leaking

  • Customer: Alexander from Miami FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 19 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
Opened the front panel with 3 crews T-25 or socket wrench. Panel comes off right away.

Look for the leak. Determined it was the hose. Use power pliers to remove the clamp.

The small clamp was easy. The big one I had to use my yoga to get to it. It probably would had been easy from the back panel but moving the machine requires brute force.

Once the hose was out I found some bra under wires which is what probably punctured the hose.

Removed the front filter and found a bunch of nails.

Assembly was much easier and placed clamps so that if needed it would be a lot easier to remove and replace.

Water was slowly leaking into the washer drum

  • Customer: robert from Covina CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 22 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
lickity split
All Instructions for the KHWS02RMT3
1-15 of 167