Models > KHMS155LSS4 > Instructions

KHMS155LSS4 KitchenAid Microwave - Instructions

All installation instructions for KHMS155LSS4 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the microwave repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the KHMS155LSS4
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Dirty filters

  • Customer: Susan from Hercules CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 63 of 126 people found this instruction helpful
It was a simple replacement of grease filter and charcoal filter in microwave/hood combination. I did use a screw driver to pry out the filters, but otherwise no tools. It was easy and straightforward.

Oven buzzed and no heat

  • Customer: Joseph from Saint Charles IL
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 32 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
First took down the hood/microwave and removed the sheet metal housing.
I changed HV diode as it was the least expensive component and the first one that internet suggested and tested bad with a ohm meter. Didn't fix a thing.
Capacitor failed test with meter so I ordered and then replaced this.
Still no change so I ordered a new magnetron.
Now I have over $100 invested in a 9 year old oven but a new one is three times this so if my time is free I am still ahead.
The magnetron may be the first part installed onto the oven. To remove the old magnetron and install the new the top plastic vent hood moldings and motor had to be removed. Pretty straight forward but not a little amount of work.
The new magnetron did the job and the oven now heats like new.

no heat

  • Customer: kelvin from san diego CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 30 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
this problem started two months ago when my micro quit heating up, after all the research most agreed it was the magnetron. taking the micowave apart is not to difficult just make sure you bag all the screws accordingly. the high voltage area is on the right hand side behind a panel. caution there is a capacitor that will bite if your not careful, need to short the circuit between the two connectors with an insulated screw driver it will make a small pop or let it sit for awhile and it will discharge by itself. The magnetron worked for two days then quit, after more research i took it apart again and tightened up all the connections. Worked great on the bench but when i got it back up on the cabinet two dayslater kaput again. so again i take it down and replaced the two cheapest parts in the high voltage system, magnetron thermst fix, and h.v diode. benched tested it this time for 3 days cooking anything that i could think of, worked great. its been one week now afer installtion and it is still working.

Microwave turntable does not work

  • Customer: Todd from San Bernardino CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
My unit is a wall mount/cabinet/built-in model. The repair is actually fairly simple once you determine that the actual microwave is just a component of the entire unit, and that it (the microwave) can be easily removed from the unit. I did not figure this out until after I removed the entire unit (disconnect the power supply, lift the entire bulky, heavy unit out of the cramped space in the cabinet, etc). Once I got it out I figured out how easy it is to remove the actual oven - a couple of screws, literally. The unit is a bit bulky, but not particularly heavy and is quite manageable. I did this entire process alone.

I got the oven out, rolled it on it's side and found the plate to access the motor. The plate is located on the bottom/underside of the unit. The plate is nothing more than a section of the underside of the metal housing that has been cut-out as an access point. This "cut-out" is not complete - that is, not completely cut out so as to all the plate to stay in place without the need for screws, etc, until you actually have to use it. I used a pair of dykes to cut the couple of points still connecting this plate, removed the two phillips screws to remove the motor, disconnected the two wires connected, then reversed to complete the repair. You then flip the cut-out plate over/rotate it, and some screw holes line up. Find a couple of small screws, and re-attach the plate to cover the motor.

The actual fix is really easy, again, once you figure out the simple way to remove the oven. I am an idiot, so you will probably find this much easier. I could probably do this repair now, after my experience, in less than 30 minutes (probably less than 15 minutes). I probably save a couple hundred $ by doing it myself so was well worth the time to do it. Good luck.

Microwave made very loud noise while on. No heat.

  • Customer: Sleiman from Miami FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Unless you have a very comfortable background with electronics and electricity, I don't necessarily recommend taking apart a microwave. If you are very handy and are going to be VERY cautious to follow the rules of discharging caps and testing voltages before moving forward, then go for it. That said, I took the microwave off and apart. Not knowing where to find the parts, I was fortunate that the installer put the instruction book for the microwave inside the front vent slot above the touchpad for reference. it details the location of every part and it tells you very clearly what each part you test should show specific to this microwave on your multimeter. Find this guide online if you don't have it. Turn on the microwave for 20 seconds with a glass of water to make sure it's not heating - that with the noise means it's eeither the magnetron, cap, or diode. Read the notes on this site for all of the basic things to look for with the magnetron, diode, and capacitor. Once comfortable with the guide, locations of those devices, and how to test, then take it down and apart. Unfortunately, I didn't do all those things in that order, and it only wasted a lot of time trying to find the parts. Once I found the parts and put all the screws and covers back for all the areas that didn't need to be accessed for the repair, testing went quickly. The diode was bad. Ordered a new one and had it in 3 days or so. That means your microwave will be apart and sitting somewhere for a little while until you get the part and have time to repair it. Putting the diode back isn't too bad. Reassemble the microwave and put it back up again. If i had to do it again, it would take me 20 to 30 minutes once the microwave was down and on a table. Also, I used some bricks with towels over them or you could use some sawhorses to keep the microwave elevated so you can plug it in and run it after installing the new component. Again, make sure you discharge the cap before touching anything again even if you didn't run it, but just plugged it in.

Humming sound, not heating.

  • Customer: Fausto from Miramar FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
I turn off the income electricity by shutting down the corresponding circuit breaker. Then, I removed the control panel from the microwave which gave me access to the capacitor and adjacent diode. After that i unscrewed the defective diode and replaced it with the new one and BINGO!

Bought a used microwave with no mount.

  • Customer: brady from Salt Lake City UT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
I found the part number for the mount on the appliances company website. Once I had that I visited a few sites looking for part. This site was easy to use and priced right, so I ordered. A few days later the product arrived as promised and worked perfectly for the install.

Wolud not heat or cook anything.

  • Customer: Wayne from Wingate NC
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 11 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Instead of telling you, i have question do you have any instructions on how to do the repair. It would have helped save time on the repair.

This job took longer then it should have, becasue I did not start right in the begining. I did figure it out quickly after the wrong start.

You were a big help in picking the right part to correct the problem. You should be able to help with the repair. Thank You

UNIT TURNED ITSELF ON AND WENT NUTS

  • Customer: MARK from ARROYO GRANDE CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I suspected the key pad,as I had a similar problem years ago.I removed the vent grill and the screw at the top of the keypad. Lifted the keypad slightly and tilted it downward, unplugged the keypad, and put the new one in place.The tricky part here is plugging in the new ribbon and ensuring its on the correct side of the contact block.A credit card made this a lot easier.The new keypad solved the problem and the rest of the family no longer thinks our house is haunted.Thanks --- M.S IN A.G.

My microwave began suddenly making a loud humming noise while cooking food.

  • Customer: Lindsay from Nampa ID
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 60 of 165 people found this instruction helpful
My microwave began suddenly making a loud harsh humming noise while cooking food. I did not let it go on long enough to know if it cooked the food or not. I did some Internet research and learned that it was likely the Magnetron. The test for this was to run the microwave for at least a minute on the lowest power setting and see if the noise cycled on and off. It did, so I (actually, my wife) ordered the part from partselect.com using the model number. I was successful in replacing the part, and we are back to microwave popcorn and quick defrost for a price that was less than a service call, however, it was time consuming, required a large work area, and access to 5 out of 6 sides of the unit. So proceed at your own discretion

Caution:

The first thing in every set of repair instructions was to discharge (short-circuit) the capacitor, as it may store large (as in lethal) amounts of electricity even when it is not connected to a power source. I had never done this, but found these instructions:

“Discharging your microwave's capacitor is absolutely essential in preventing injury to your microwave, your tools, and yourself. A capacitor stores a large amount of electricity even when your microwave is unplugged, and it must be discharged before beginning any repair.
A capacitor is discharged by creating a short circuit between each of the two capacitor terminals, and between each terminal and the chassis. The chassis is the metal mounting (bare metal surface) of the capacitor. Read these directions thoroughly before you proceed.
With your microwave unit unplugged, touch the blade of a well insulated screwdriver to one terminal. Gently slide the screwdriver forward until it reaches the other terminal, holding it there for a few seconds. Be aware that this often results in a loud and startling 'POP'.
Repeat this procedure in order to create a short circuit between each capacitor terminal and the chassis (bare metal mounting plate surface). This same method can be applied to a capacitor having three, and not two, terminals.”
I had not run my microwave in over a week, and then while my part was shipping, left my microwave 'unplugged' for more than two days, and my capacitor apparently discharged itself, although I did go through the above procedure carefully and completely - just in case.
Step-By-Step:
1. You must remove your microwave from the cabinets - it is impossible to repair otherwise. This is best accomplished with 2 strong people - my wife and I made it work, but wished for another guy.
a. While supporting the microwave, remove the two screws coming down through the cabinet above.
b. Lift the rear of the microwave as much as possible, then tilt the front down - there is a clip high on the left side, as well as the hinge/clips on the bottom.
c. If you do not lift it off the wall all at once, you may have to lift the rear even farther to remove it from the hinge/clips on the bottom.
Important Note: Always beware of the microwave door, if it is bent or broken and cannot retain a seal, the microwave not function as a safety feature to keep from releasing microwaves.
2. Remove the vent cover on the top/front of the microwave - be careful, it's plastic.
3. Remove the vent cover and light panel on the bottom of the microwave - this is several screws and some simple wire clips.
4. Remove the "shell" (top and sides) of the microwave - this is several more screws on the back. Make sure to remove the plate that is holding the cord in place on the top.
5. Remove the interface panel by the screws on the top (which had been hidden by the vent cover) - the wires can remain attached, just slide it aside.
6. Remove the metal cover on the right side at the rear; this will expose the Magnetron and the Capacitor. Remember to immediately test and discharge the capacitor!

7. After you discharge the capacitor, remove the other cover plate and the support bracket - in case you haven't noticed, this is a time and space consuming operation.

8. You

Plastic parts on Vent Grille broken.

  • Customer: Glenda from Cutler Bay FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Didn't take a genius to see how to replace the vent grille, even for a 73 yr old female. However, instructions would have been nice as it took me a while to realize I needed to remove the old brackets in order for the new grille to fit.

My grill vent had snapped off

  • Customer: Jeannia from Gilbert AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the 2 old screws that had the broken hinge peices in it. The I open the microwave door, snapped in the new peice and put in the two new screws. That was all it took!

display would show "Inch" and run thru 7,9,12 then start on its own. Also sometimes displayed "F2"

  • Customer: Earl from Winter Springs FL
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
UNPLUGGED IT
Remove 2 screws on top of the unit holding the grille in- remove the grille
Remove the one screw at the top of the display and tilt the top of the display towards you.
At the bottom is a hinge that slides up to be removed- leave the screw in place.
The conector for the keypad is a ribbon connector that is attached to a black connector about 2/3 of the way up the circuit board- to release the ribbon cable the highest end of the connector has a plastic release clip that you can bend with your fingernail allowing the long edge of the connector topivot about the (lower) hinged end. Not hard to do just don't force it.
Do not remove any wires-remove the screws holding the circuit board on (2 I think) at the bottom.
The top of the circuit board is held in by sheet metal features in the housing- mine were a bit tough but its obvious how to remove it.
The keypad/exterior sheet metal & display assembly should be free now- support and place display up on a work surface.
To remove the current keypad CAREFULLY pry around the edge/junction of the ext sheet metal and the keypad. The keypad is held on with adhesive and will require some effort. Also the keypad extends slightly under the ext shett metal so it will be a pain. the goal is to start it peeling w/o damaging the sheet metal around it.
To remove the remaining adhesive (& paper) use denatured alcohol.
The new keypad is made to go under the ext sheet metal but it isn't possible to install it this way. I trimmed the edges of the new keypad so that it would drop in. You only get one try installing the keypad so make sure it fits before putting it in with the adhesive exposed.
YOU MADE IT!! Is Fixed !!

The thing that makes the plate rotate was missing

  • Customer: Kim from MILTON WV
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I ordered the part according to the Model number, inserted the part very easily, (and I am soooo challenged in that area) and now it turns again. :)

loose handle

  • Customer: David from Littleton CO
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
This is not easy to do. I done it before to replace a broken window and it was a real bitch. I considered buying a new door rather then do it again.All I wanted to do was tighten two screws that hold the handle.
I used the advice found on your web site from a person who did it using quarters and putty knifes to remove the choke and the door insert. Sounded silly but it works like a charm. I advise anyone who needs to do this repair to use that info on your web site. It will save lots of frustration. Be sure to have plenty of quarters and a few pennies.
All Instructions for the KHMS155LSS4
16-30 of 87