KHMS145JBL0 KitchenAid Microwave - Instructions

First I removed the 2 old screws that had the broken hinge peices in it. The I open the microwave door, snapped in the new peice and put in the two new screws. That was all it took!

I suspected the key pad,as I had a similar problem years ago. I removed the vent grill and the screw at the top of the keypad. Lifted the keypad slightly and tilted it downward, unplugged the keypad, and put the new one in place. The tricky part here is plugging in the new ribbon and ensuring its on the correct side of the contact block. A credit card made this a lot easier. The new keypad solved the problem and the rest of the family no longer thinks our house is haunted. Thanks --- m. S in a. G.

KitchenAid Microwave [Model: KHMS 145 JBS-0]Door Handle Repair
Tools and Parts
• Door Handle [Part # PS390101]
• Putty Knife
• Phillips Screwdriver
• Tray (cup) for parts during disassembly/reassembly (3 screws on door; 2 screws on handle; spacer on top-door edge).
Instructions
• Preparation
o Disassembly can be managed with the door mounted on the unit. The handle is attached by 2-screws that can be accessed only by separating the outer/inner door panels.
o Before starting the project, watch the Youtube.com video for a GE Microwave, which is the most applicable video for removing the collar [i.e., plastic bezel around the viewing window on the inner door) and for separating the outer/inner door panels ].

• Remove the collar
Photo 1: Inner-side clip (bottom of collar) used on
3-sides of the collar (top edge is a spacer) Photo 2: Hinge side clip (right edge)

o As indicated in the video, small clips are on the inner-side of the collar on 3-sides (top, bottom, and open-door edge).
o The clips are on the outside of the collar for the door-hinge side.
o These clips are small and somewhat fragile – once a few are popped, finger pressure will generally pop the remaining clips.


• Separate the outer/inner door panels

Photo shows the inner/outer doors separated, and the 3-screws removed.
o Remove the 3-screws on the door edge before separating the outer door panel.
o There is a plastic spacer on the top, outside edge of the door that is not cemented. Remove the spacer after separating the door panels.
o Use a putty knife to pop the clips for the outer-door panel around the top, bottom, and open-door sides.
o The top door corner (the spacer edge) is tight and should be gently pushed back.
o The outer door panel will remain attached on the hinged edge and function like a second door – move gently.
o The viewing glass is clamped in place; but, handle with caution.

• Remove the Door Handle
o With the outer/inner panels separated, remove the two screws holding the handle and remove the handle.
o Retain the screws for later use.

• Install the new Door Handle
o Reuse the original screws (Note, [Part # W10841091 – screw] is a different thread, and is not self-tapping)
o The door-handle screw holes are not tapped; so insert the old screws in the handle to tap before installing the handle, leaving approximately 1/8 - 3/16” exposed.
o Remove the screws and reuse to install the handle.


Comparison of 2-original screws vs. replacement screw (note thread gauge differences).
• Reinstall the Outer Door Panel
o Align the spacer with the inner-panel edge in the upper corner.
o Close the outer panel, gently snapping the clips into place.
o Reinstall the 3-screws on the door edge.

• Reinstall the Collar
o Snap the hinge side in place.
o Gently snap the remaining sides in place

Instead of telling you, i have question do you have any instructions on how to do the repair. It would have helped save time on the repair.

This job took longer then it should have, becasue I did not start right in the begining. I did figure it out quickly after the wrong start.

You were a big help in picking the right part to correct the problem. You should be able to help with the repair. Thank You

I ordered the part according to the Model number, inserted the part very easily, (and I am soooo challenged in that area) and now it turns again. :)

This is not easy to do. I done it before to replace a broken window and it was a real bitch. I considered buying a new door rather then do it again.All I wanted to do was tighten two screws that hold the handle.
I used the advice found on your web site from a person who did it using quarters and putty knifes to remove the choke and the door insert. Sounded silly but it works like a charm. I advise anyone who needs to do this repair to use that info on your web site. It will save lots of frustration. Be sure to have plenty of quarters and a few pennies.

replace one of the four rack supports which was melting

I turned off the power to the oven at the breaker. I then removed the side trim pieces by removing the screws located behind the lower oven door. I removed the plastic trim pieces above and below the microwave oven and removed the control panel and slid it into the opening above the microwave. I located the two screws securing the microwave into the frame and began sliding it out. I had to disconnect a small wiring harness and two wires from the microwave that were attached inside the opening above the microwave. The microwave section was the easily slid out, turned on it's side where the turntable motor was accessed by removing the access panel. I pulled the old motor, checked resistance and it matched the new motor. I then checked the old motor by applying 120V to it and it ran FINE! I thought I had the wrong part, but decided to install the new motor anyway. I did, secured the access panel and replaced the microwave in the frame. I reconnected the wires and secured the control panel and tested the microwave...and the turntable works!

the burn thru was probably because stirrer motor was not turning, Unplug the microwave .freed the motor up bu manually turning. temporary fix. The cover is held up with small push pin clips. Just pry the cover off with a screw driver or other flat tool. Scrape offf the old silicone. There are two covers in the Kit. you just need 1. Remove the old clips for the roof of the microwave, put a bead of silicone on the new cover where the old was and secure the new cover with the push pins into the clips .

I used a Google search to show how to access the area behind the front panel. There was a folded paper copy with a schematic and wiring diagram in that space.Then I used a multi-meter to determine which of the THREE micro-switches was causing the problem. I called your help line and ordered a replacement switch. The switch was delayed in transit so your agent credited me with the cost of shipping.

When the part arrived, it had three terminals instead of two as shown in the on-line picture but that did not cause any difficulty in using it. It took about 20 minutes to remove and replace the old switch.

All seems to be working well now.

Finding which of the THREE switches was the problem was the most difficult part of the repair. All three "clicked" but the defective one did not click as easily. It needed to be depressed more than the door latch can would provide. Old age?

Take off top facing over microwave using screwdriver also protection plate for diode and capaitor. Disconnect diode from frame, bracket to capacitor then remove, disconnect wires leaving diode on capacitor for right connection, replace, rewire done.

My husband unscrewed the three screws on the end of the door, popped the exterior door off and removed the old door handle to save the screws. He then attached the new handle to the new exterior door. He snapped it into place and replaced the 3 screws at the end of the door! NOW IT IS JUST LIKE NEW! Just a matter of minutes.

Very easy and fast. I wished that I could just replace the panel door instead of cleaning it everytime. It was easier and quicker to replace the door than it was to clean it.

The old grill had already been removed so the new one fit right in and it was only a matter of tightening the 2 screws to hold the new one in place. Simple. Looks great. No one will ever know it was broken.

UNPLUGGED IT
Remove 2 screws on top of the unit holding the grille in- remove the grille
Remove the one screw at the top of the display and tilt the top of the display towards you.
At the bottom is a hinge that slides up to be removed- leave the screw in place.
The conector for the keypad is a ribbon connector that is attached to a black connector about 2/3 of the way up the circuit board- to release the ribbon cable the highest end of the connector has a plastic release clip that you can bend with your fingernail allowing the long edge of the connector topivot about the (lower) hinged end. Not hard to do just don't force it.
Do not remove any wires-remove the screws holding the circuit board on (2 I think) at the bottom.
The top of the circuit board is held in by sheet metal features in the housing- mine were a bit tough but its obvious how to remove it.
The keypad/exterior sheet metal & display assembly should be free now- support and place display up on a work surface.
To remove the current keypad CAREFULLY pry around the edge/junction of the ext sheet metal and the keypad. The keypad is held on with adhesive and will require some effort. Also the keypad extends slightly under the ext shett metal so it will be a pain. the goal is to start it peeling w/o damaging the sheet metal around it.
To remove the remaining adhesive (& paper) use denatured alcohol.
The new keypad is made to go under the ext sheet metal but it isn't possible to install it this way. I trimmed the edges of the new keypad so that it would drop in. You only get one try installing the keypad so make sure it fits before putting it in with the adhesive exposed.
YOU MADE IT!! Is Fixed !!