KGYS850LQ1 KitchenAid Dryer - Instructions

Watch the video first. 1.) To open dryer top- remove screws, it pulls forward and up, prop up lid. 2.) Unscrew door switch from front, watching which way it inserts. Screw in new switch same way. 3.) Use a tiny screw driver and loosen old switch plug all around edges- it then slips right off. Slide on new one and it will lock on the little lock tab. Make a note which color wire is on the pointed side of plug- mine was white and put new one on the same. 4.) Test and replace dryer top. FOUR EASY STEPS, 15 MINUTES REPAIR TIME, I RECEIVED MY PART FROM PART SELECT IN 2 DAYS= UNBELIEVABLE!!! EASY and YOU SAVE A FORTUNE!

The dryer would not start when pushing the power button and the timer clicked rapidly. Another You Tube video lead us to the thermal fuse. First, we took the lower front panel off, it had two little groove places to pry open with a flat head screwdriver. Then we took off the venting piece. It was jammed full of lint which is why the thermal fuse blew. The thermal fuse itself was tricky to get at the nut in order to loosen it. We vacuumed out all the lint, cleaned the venting piece and lint filter. When the part came, again the nut was tricky, but just requires patience. Put everything back together and the dryer works great again! Really easy and I wonder how many dryers get replaced when this happens.

Fast shipping. Part arrived the next day!

I followed the instructions you supplied. All went well. The short movie that you supplied was fine but the only tricky part which included placing the belt over the idler wheel was not well done in that the repairman's arm covered the work area. Delivery time was excellent.

I woke up one morning to the dryer not working. Every company that I called wanted to charge a high price to come check the dryer. I decided to get on YouTube to troubleshoot the issue. There were a few videos that I saw, but the video for partselect was the best one I saw. I decided to explore the site to see if there was something I could do to fix it. I love the Instant appliance repair help, where you give the issue and it tells you what the problem most likely is. When I put in my model number, it said that it was most likely the thermal fuse or thermostat. I decided to get both since they were inexpensive. I received the part within a couple of days. I decided to come back to the site to make sure I was putting the part in correctly. If it wasn't for this site, I would have been paying hundreds of dollars instead of the $30 that I spent. Thanks so much PartSelect!!!!!!

Unpluged the dryer. Removed the vent hose with a reg. screwdriver. used a 1/4" nut driver removed the back of the dryer. Located the The Thermal fuse and replaced it. Found the Cycling Thermostat removed the 1/4" screw and changed the wires one at a time to get them in the right spot. Reinstalled the Cycling Thermostat. Pluged the dryer in and turned it on. It fired up in about 10 seconds. Turned it off and unpluged it. Reinstalled the back and Hose and away we went.

I started by taking the front of my dryer off and cleaned it out. Next i ran the dryer and watched the flame starter circut. The starter circut would work once and then not for a long time but i could see it was tring to light because the iginiter would glow white hot. I then searched online for my model number and found the part select web site. In a few minutes I found a dryer fault description that best fit what my dryer was doing. The part select site should me three parts it might be. I read about what the three parts did on the parts select site. Then by using the process of elimination, with the knowledge I had just learned, I narrowed my suspect parts down to one. The coil for the gas valve must be the problem. So I got my ohm meter and measured the coil resistance and I found that when the coil was room temp it had resistance. But it would get hot after one heat cycle and it would open up therefore causing the gas valve not to open......no heat! I ordered the part and it came in two days!!!! All fixed!

This is a long, sad story, but I'll cut to the chase. I was told by few appliance repair guys that my problem was most likely due to the motor being bad. I had checked the thermal fuse, the door switch, and the power switch, and all were good so that made sense. I then saw a video which made it seem fairly straight forward to remove the old motor and replace it. So I ordered the motor from Part Select. Turns out it's impossible to remove the motor without also removing (and replacing) the blower. The video never mentions that. Also FYI, I found out that my dryer switch WAS broken, and nothing was wrong with the motor, so I spent $250 on a repair that should have cost %40. Oh well ...

It snapped right in. Works perfect.

I watched the You Tube video on this site. The only issue is there is a plastic fitting that I seriously damaged trying to remove the motor from the blower. You have to hold the plastic fiting stationary while turning the nut on the other end of the motor. If you try to rotate the plastic fitting you'll destroy it as I did. I got it loose by squeezing the plastic fitting with a large pair of channel lock pliers and then rotating the nut.

I was able to take apart the dryer myself and get old belt out, then my son helped me remove the drum and put new belt on. Well worth fixing; it works great again and the part with shipping and handling was only $17.00! better then price of new dryer!!!Thanks, Mary ( Cincinnati)

I tore down the dryer, to find any and all issues. The belt was worn, the rear support wheels were worn, the Blower Wheel was cracked and busted, the left felt support was absent, the right felt support was shot, the water tube leading to the steaming chamber was split in two and disconnected. Ordered all parts from here, they shipped VERY fast, and the hardest part is getting the drum back in and set right. The belt was fairly 3easy to put back on if you removed the water tube support and get your right hand all the way back in there so you can pull the pulley wheel back while holding the belt. Completely cleaned the cabinet out, vacuum and scraper. Put a new exhaust hose on while I was at it, just in case. Once everything was put back together, carefully, the dryer works as good as new. I was told to never get rid of this dryer, they quit making them, and I see why. Easy to repair, does my dress clothes in the top cabinet, dries like a commercial machine in the lower. Oh some installation notes...The front panel comes completely off, if you disconnect the ground and the yellow wire on the lower right (your right) side. This makes everything else much easier. There are 4 front panel screws, 4 edge screws, and four counter screws inside the upper cabinet that must be removed. I had to pull the side holder screws to removed the top plat so I could remove the drum. Keep track of your screws!!! You will need a flathead, a Phillips, a small socket (I forget what size), and some needle nose pliers to remove clips (from the wheel).

my son replaced the door switch and that was it works great

Initial diagnoses suspected a faulty igniter. After deterininig that there was not power to the igniter I unplugged the dryer and systematically tested the continuity of each of the temperature limit swithches which all checked OK. The last item in the circuit is the thermal fuse which proved to be faulty. To confirm that this was the only problem I monentarily by passed the fuse to verify that the burner came on. To do all this I had to remove the fron panel and take out the drum. Actually the thermal fuse is located behind th back cover and is very easy to replace and probably should have been my fist go to suspect. Note the likely cause of the thermal fuse failure is a plugged up lint filter or exhaust duct which should be checked before installing a new fuse.

Removed top, Face and pulled the tub out. Blew out all the dust and lint. Cleaned and lubed tensioner, installed new tub plastic bearing and reassembled.