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Models > KEYS850LQ1 > Instructions

KEYS850LQ1 KitchenAid Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for KEYS850LQ1 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the KEYS850LQ1
1,096-1,110 of 1,179
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Small black tab had broken off from door switch assembly

  • Customer: Stephanie from Mountain View, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
After reviewing a variety of online instructional videos I was able to figure out how to remove the top ("hood") panel of dryer to access the door switch. Once I had access the switch was relatively simple to replace.

Tall Drum Baffle came loose

  • Customer: Helena from Oregon, OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
I am a female, not a handy man. But by following the repair man on the video, it was easy. I also went ahead and installed the maintance kit. The maintance kit was recommended when I ordered the parts. I followed by maintaining the washer.

Dryer would not shut off, constant heat.

  • Customer: Michael from Phoenix, AZ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Replacing the cycling thermostat went really fast and easy. Unplug the dryer. Remove the 6-8 hex-head screws holding the back panel in place. The thermostat location is in the lower left. below the black discharge air duct. Note the location and/or tag the wires connected to it. Pull off the wires and remove the screw holding the thermostat in place and remove it. Reverse the procedure for installation of the new thermostat. Where this got tricky was it did not solve the problem. A strict diagnosis based on the electrical schematic alone would have, and did, indicate a faulty thermostat, i.e. on that was not opening. However, what I found was surprising. The heating element coil had broken and part of it had "welded" to the casing, grounding it and effectively turning the 240V heater into a 120V heater. This allowed the heater to provide heat (low heat). However, the timer motor needs 240V to operate and since one leg of the heater was grounded the timer could not get 240V when the thermostat cycled off. Replacing the heating element solved the problem.

Dryer kept spinning with door open. Then several months later, dryer would not start.

  • Customer: susan from Spring Lake, NJ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
I just followed the instructions on the video. The only helpful addition I have...make sure the power is off before you start. I did get that point when the video said to turn the power back on, at the end of the video. In all...a great experience and I saved more than $200.00 doing it myself, with the help of the FANTASTIC web site at PartSelect!

Drum stopped turning

  • Customer: james from blue point, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
After removing the back, I realized I absolutely did not know what I was doing. I went to google put in my model number, and went to your web page. The rest is history. Went to the video watched it and went back to the dryer and after cleaning up the back, put it back and removed the top and front as per video. The parts came in a few days and replaced the belt and idler arm n about 2 min. I am not kidding. The wife held the drum while I put the front back on. One thing I could not separate the door switch so I just unscrewed it from the fron panel. The dryeris 20 years old, and your web page will put the Maytag repairman on the unemployment line.

Dryer would run but very little heat

  • Customer: Fernando from Fort Worth, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Watched the repair video once, it was real informative and easy to follow. The repair took about 30 minutes to complete. The video went step by step. Had no problems what so ever. Made the reapir and turned the dryer on and let it run for a few minutes and once again had all the heat I needed to make it operate correctley. I recomend that once you see your dryer is not dring your clothes like it once did, replace these parts. I let this go on for a year thinking my wife was putting way to many clothes in the dryer. It was not that at all. No telling how much money we could have saved on our electric bill by replacing these parts sooner. $30 dollars for the parts, I bet we spent that much a week on extra drying cycles. What used to take 2-3 cycles to dry now only takes one cycle. Runs just like it did when we purchased it.I will buy from this site again, easy to use all the information you need to make the repair and prompt shipping. Awesome site.

Dryer made kind of a grinding noise when it started. A repair technician looked at it and said it needed new drum support rollers and shafts.

  • Customer: Janis from Lakewood, CO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the instructions on the Part Select website for drum support rollers and shaft. The videos were great! (There wasn't one for the right side shaft but I could extrapolate from the other instructions.) The hardest part for me was releasing the dryer top - the video made it look so easy but it took me a long time to get the little clips to release with the putty knife. Also, tightening the new right side shaft required the help of another person as my arms are not long enough to hold the shaft with pliers while I tightened the nut in the back of the dryer (and I did have to remove the back cover for this shaft). I would recommend to anyone even a little bit handy to attempt a repair following part select's videos.

Broken Dryer belt

  • Customer: Glenn from Waterford, CT
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
I follow the instructions from the video sent to me with the email to tell me my new belt was shipped. Made the whole job go a easy as could be. Parts Select made fixing my dryer so simple and I also got the belt within 2 days. I recommend buying parts only from you! Glenn

Runs but no heat

  • Customer: Wayne from East Wenatchee, WA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged power cord, removed back cover, checked heating element and all the thermostats. Found one with no continuity and replaced it.

Dryer had become REALLY noisy.

  • Customer: William from Dallas, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
The PartsSelect video was great. I'm not sure I would have figured out the trick for opening up this dryer without it. After that the main problem was getting goop off of the drum support roller spindles. This took lots of solvent and elbow grease. I think this was the main source of noise. The oil had turned to something like partly dried glue. They were very hard to turn. The belt was intact but badly cracked. The idler probably could have been oiled and reused but I already had the part so I replaced it. Everything went just like the video. The dryer now hums along like a new one!

upper agitator arm was not working

  • Customer: linda from springfield, MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
took out the fabric softener cup pull out diaphram unscrewed the bolt pull out the cup replaced with new parts I want to thank you for your fast service. it is awesome. i will recommend you to all my friends.

Dryer would run for approximately 8 mins, then shut off by itself. After about 20 mins, dryer would restart but stop on it's own within 8-10 mins. Motor was also noisy when it ran.

  • Customer: Terrence from Hotsprings, AR
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged dryer, removed 2 screws under filter lid, removed filter, removed access panel on back of machine, removed blower motor housing, vacuumed all dust and debris from rear of dryer, turned dryer around and opened top of dryer using a small screwdriver to release the clips approximately 2" from either end, then securing top from falling by using bailing wire to hold it in place, disconnected door switch wiring harness, removed 2- 5/16 screws retaining front panel and removed front panel from dryer, removed drum from dryer, removed idler pulley from bottom of cabinet noting position of drum belt, vacuumed dust and debris from bottom of cabinet and around old motor, removed motor retaining clips rotated motor and removed wiring harness from motor. I then attempted to remove the blower wheel from the old motor and here is where the problem began. If your dryer has the original motor in it, or the motor has never been changed in it to the best of your knowledge, go ahead and order a new blower wheel with your other parts, because you will not get the old one off without destroying it. (this cost me several days to complete the repair). Do not use channel locks or vice grips to attach to the front pulley to remove or install the blower wheel... use 2 medium sized crescent (adjustable) wrenches otherwise the pulley will be damaged and you will have a lot of filing to do to repair it. (If you need to reuse the pulley. I did not as my motor and pulley was an exact replacement). I got the blower wheel off of the old motor by using a chisel and a hammer and cutting a hole around the attachment point on the motor shaft from the rear of the dryer. After this, the job was pretty easy. I put the new motor in the motor housing, put a crescent wrench on the pulley on the front of the new motor, then screwed the new blower wheel onto the motor from the back of the dryer. (remember, the blower wheel has left handed threads, so to install it you have to turn the pulley on the motor to the LEFT to thread it into the wheel.) After the blower wheel is installed and hand tight, use 2 crescent wrenches to tighten down on motor, (1 on the blower wheel hub where it is square, and 1 on the front pulley) rotate the motor down to the correct position for the wiring loom, (you want the wires to rest on the bottom of the cabinet when the job is complete)., then reinstall the motor retaining clips and attach wiring harness. At this point I installed new drum rollers, reinstalled the drum with a new drum belt, and replaced the idler pulley with a new one. (push the drum counter clockwise by hand a few times to center the drum belt and to make sure that the drum is on the drum rollers correctly). The front panel is now reinstalled being careful to make sure the clips on the cabinet engage the holes in the panel. Push back on the drum slightly and reinstall the 2- 5/16 screws to hold the front panel to the cabinet, then reattach the wiring harness for the door switch. Remove the bailing wire and close the lid. The blower wheel housing is then reinstalled, then reinstall the rear access panel. Reinstall the filter and the 2 screws under the filter lid. Plug in the dryer and your repair is complete. When a motor replacement is required, you are better off replacing the motor, blower wheel, drum rollers, drum belt, and idler pulley. I did and my dryer sounds and performs like a new one. My wife is absolutely delighted. I spent approximately $180.00 on the total repair while a new dryer would have cost me $600.00 + tax.

door switch broke

  • Customer: Frankie from Lady Lake, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
remove 2 screws from lint vent, use putty knife to remove top op dryer, remove 2 screws holding switch.

Drum was not turning when the start button was pushed while morot was running

  • Customer: Philip S from Springfield, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
After I received the new belt I un-plugged the electric cord and shut off the gas supply. I pulled the dryer about 10 inches away from the wall to remove the vent duct from the back of the dryer. Used the putty knife to release the clips on bottom front panel and a screw driver to pop the front of the top at the left side and right side, removed the two Phillips head screws under the lint door, then lifted the top to the vertical position. Loosened the hex head screws at the bottom of the upper front panel (don't take them out). At the top back side of the front panel, pull off the electrical wires from the door interlock switch and pull the retainer holding the wires to the front panel (don't take the plastic clip from the wires.) Place some wood blocks to support the drum at the front of the drum. Use the nut driver to remove the two screws on the inside at the top of the front panel. Disconnect the two springs that hold the door closed. Lift the panel from the two loosened nuts at the bottom and pull it away from the drum and let the drum settle on the blocks of wood to support it. Place the new belt around the drum lining it up where the old belt left its mark around the drum with the grooved surface facing the drum. Replace the front upper panel with the door to engage to two tabs on the screws you left at the bottom. Lift the drum so that it engages with the opening in the front panel. In case where the drum had dropped too far, use the putty knife to engage the felt flange at the rear of the drum with the rear cabinet flange. Reinstall the two screws at the top that you had removed. Reconnect the two wires at the interlock switch and snap the clip with the wires to the flange of the upper front panel. Replace the door springs on the hinge extensions to the flange at the bottom of the cabinet. Set the Idler pulley assembly into the cabinet floor sliding the end tab into the slot and the two tabs fit into the holes in the floor. Pull a loop of the belt under the idler pulley and then pull it toward the motor pulley. You might use the shaft of your Phillips screw driver instead of you fingers to get it around the pulley on the motor shaft. Turn the drum by had for several complete turns to ensure that the belt lines up on the drum and that the drum isn't binding on the back or front seals. Close the top, snapping onto the top of the cabinet. Plug the dryer into the electric outlet and set the timer to Fluff Air range and push the start button with the door closed. The drum should be turning smoothly. Open the door and all should stop. Reconnect the Vent and move the dryer back to its former position. Turn gas supply on but do not start the dryer. Check for gas leaks. If you find a leak in either at connectors or the flexible connecter call a qualified contractor to replace the flex connecter. Otherwise you can then set for one of the dryer settings and push the start button and observe the burner through the lower panel to see that the igniter is lighting up and finally the gas turns on and a decent blue flam is burning in the combustion tube. Open the dryer door and the flame should cut off and the drum stop turning. You are ready to set the bottom panel. Set the panel on the two lower tabs and close it upward until the snaps lock it in position. Job Done

Drum does not rotate

  • Customer: Richard from Westhope, ND
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Diagnose the problem. Is it the motor ? Is it the belt ? Order the correct repair kit, use name brand parts to ensure reliability. READ THE SUPPLIED DIRECTIONS. You can use a small wood shim or wedge at the top front corners to open the top . Use a 5/16" socket to remove the 2 screws at the top outside corners. Lift the front panel straight up, supporting the drum as you lift it off. Remove the drum, taking it straight out the front. Install the new drum rollers, install the idler, and then the belt around the drum. Install the drum on the rear rollers, make sure the seal is not folded under. Push the drum back against the seal flange, support the front of the drum with your right (or left ) hand, and sit the front panel on the lower pins, and gently push the front panel to the sidewalls. Feed the belt through the idler and around the motor pulley. This job is easily performed in about 20 minutes. Clean the interior while replacing the belt/idler and drum rollers. With the top lifted, after assembly, test run the dryer to make sure there are no "funny noises" after the repair. Watch especially for the white rub strips on the front edge of the drum. They tend to fold over when attaching the front panel. Job done !
All Instructions for the KEYS850LQ1
1,096-1,110 of 1,179