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KEYS850JQ0 KitchenAid Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for KEYS850JQ0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the KEYS850JQ0
46-60 of 1,061
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Dryer sounded like it had rocks in it when running

  • Customer: Mark from Kirkwood MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Following the instructions that came with the parts, I removed the top off of the dryer, which was very easy, two more 5/16" screws and I had the drum out. I confess, this was my second time at this repair. 1st time I neglected to replace the rear drum seal which I strongly recommend you do while you have it open. I only replaced the 2 wheels last time and it failed very soon afterwards.
Lesson Learned: Always replace the rear drum seal when you replace the support wheels!!!

Dryer would not heat up; blow only air

  • Customer: William from Sacramento CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the thermal cut off kit, and the dryer now had heat. Three days later, no heat; the thermal fuse also did not have continuity. Read on-line that overheating was the most likely cause. So, I checked the exhaust duct for blockage, but it was clear. Then, I removed the exhaust canister at the back of dryer; the entire bottom was filled with lint the size of a softball. The lint was heating up, and when it got too hot, it blew the thermal cut off. Cleaned out the lint, replaced the thermal cut off, and now it's fine. Moral of the story: Remove the lint canister and clean it.

the drum was not turning because a broken belt

  • Customer: thomas from bloomfield NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
I lifted the top of the dryer cabinet, like the hood of a car using a screwdriver to pry it open. I removed the two screws in the upper right corner of the cabinet front. I disconnected the safty switch on the front door. The front of the cabinet can then be removed by lifting up the front off the pins in the base. With the drum exposed you can place the belt on and thread it through the two pulleys on the motor. Consult the diagrams provided on the PartsSelect website for the proper positioning of the belt on the pulleys. After the belt is installed spin the drum by hand one turn to make sure that it is seated properly on the drum and pulleys. Reassemble the dryer in the reverve order.

Change dryer belt

  • Customer: Scott from Bayport NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I opened up the dryer as per the instructions I had received from PartSelect tech support. It was very easy to do. The only unexpected thing was that the original belt had snapped and in doing so the idler pulley was actually laying on the floor of the dryer's bottom. I had to figure out how it went, but that only took a minute and I popped it back into place. I held the drum by hand while pulling the dryer face away so it wouldn't fall and then I slipped the belt over the drum and quickly closed the front up again. I aligned the belt on the spot where the old one had been, pulled it through the idler pulley and over the motor and voila. Done. I closed up the dryer and was on to another "Honey Do" project within 20 minutes.

The dryer stopped working and would not start.

  • Customer: kevin from Saint Augustine FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
After unplugging the dryer, I removed the bottom panel in front. Remove the the filter inside the dryer and remove the filter housing below. There you can see the thermal fuse on the air duct, its white with two blue wires. You can check it with a ohmmeter after removing the wires. If its open its bad. Its held in place with two sheet metal screws. After replacing the thermal fuse the dryer worked fine. However I would suggest cleaning the air duct and the outside discharge opening. Hope this helps.

Drying cycle would not stop.

  • Customer: johnie from claremont CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
First I disconnected the power plug. Next I removed the various knobs. Then I removed two screws holding the control panel to the dryer cabinet. Then I removed the 6 or 7 hex screws holding the cover. There were two screws holding the timer to the control panel. I removed the screws and lifted out the timer. I took the various wires, one at a time, from the old timer and put them on the new timer, when finished I re- attached the new timer and reversed my steps. Once the panel was re-installed, I plugged in the power cord and tested the unit. All was fine.

Drier would not heat

  • Customer: Jason from Birmingham AL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Wife said the drier was not heating. I looked on the internet and found Parts Select. Followed the instructions to test the heating element, thermal cut-offs, and thermostat. This is really easy, you just touch the terminals with the voltage meter to see which ones are not transmitting current (with the drier unplugged). One of the thermal cut-offs was not transmitting current so I ordered the part Sunday night and had it by Wednesday morning and put it on it about five minutes. Steps:

1. Unplug drier
2. Unscrew back of drier
3. Unplug wires from terminals of the parts shown in Parts Select instructions (one at a time)
4. Get a basic voltage meter (I bought a cheap one at the big box store)
5. Test terminals (touch the red terminal on the voltage meter to one side, black to the other)
6. If the needle moves to the other side, the part is OK, if not order the part and replace.

Thermal fuse was bad.

  • Customer: Brad from Odessa MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 13 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Did an Ohm test on the old Thermal Fuse found it to be bad. Replaced it with a new and the dryer is back to working great. Your suggestions saved approximatley $150.

Thanks for the help.

Scratches in Surface

  • Customer: Michelle from Richardson TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Loud banging noise when running dryer

  • Customer: Joseph from Prospect Park PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Found one of the two drum support rollers was badly worn. Found Partselect.com, found my parts in less then 2 mins. Figured that I was in there so I should just replace the belt so I got one of those also. Parts arrived in 3 days dryer as good as new in 20 mins.

Timer didn't move the dial while drying

  • Customer: Michael P from Flagstaff AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug the power cord. Next I removed the 6 screws that held the top back panel in place. Then pull the dial off the timer post. Then unscrew the 2 screws holding the timer in place. At this point it would have been "really easy" to swap the wires from the old timer to the new timer, except the wires that slid onto the posts also had a piece that locked them into place. I had to rig a paper clip with a small bend at the end to poke into the hole to release the small metal piece that locked it into place before sliding off the wire. Some were a bit difficult to reach because of the angle of the wire post and what was next to it on the timer. All in all though this phase took less than 15 minutes, so it wasn't too bad. After swapping the wires from the old timer to the new timer, reverse the disassembly procedures to put everything back in place. The new timer works better than my old one before it broke, ensuring my clothes are actually dry when setting it on the sensor-dry setting. And it actually does what it's supposed to when finished drying - that is activate the buzzer, and tumble the clothes every 5 minutes or so to prevent wrinkling.

Door switch was broken

  • Customer: Anthony from Orlando FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I typed in on my brouser Repair Kitchen Aid Dryer door switch.
And on You Tube up came several videos showing me how to ewmove the switch and install the new one.

The hardest part of the job was not instaling the switch but the dryer Vent hose from the back of the dryer after I puled it away from the wall, it disconnected and the I had to Pull the Washer out which was right next to it so I could put the vent hose back to the dyer. I has to disconnect the Hot/cold water line pull the washer out connect the dyer hose reconnect the cold /hot water lines and yada yada yada

Drum spinning but no heat

  • Customer: Chad from Derby KS
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Purchased thermal cut off kit but only replaced the top most thermostat. There were some extra wires wired into the bottom thermostat, that were not described on the video or any other repair user posts. It checked fine on my multimeter anyway.

Broken door switch

  • Customer: Michael from Maricopa AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Followed your online video for disassembly and it was not only educational but actually quite simple. I would recommend that you start the video with," make sure the power cord is disconnected from the power source". I have worked on numerous pieces of large electrical equipment and would strongly suggest this be added. Some people think if it's, "off", it's safe. Your phone staff when ordering was great. We will do business again.

Dryer would not tumble.

  • Customer: John from Minneapolis MN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I wasn't sure if the problem was the belt (probable) or the idler pulley assembly (less likely) but the total for both parts was about $26 plus shipping. So why not replace both to be sure?

As it turns out, my original idler pulley assembly does not turn. Rather, it has a concave semi-circular piece that is fixed in place. The belt ran in a groove in that piece.

The replacement part has a nylon wheel that turns. As a result of replacing the idler pulley assembly (which I don't think was necessary to fix my tumbling problem) the dryer runs much quieter. (We used to get a fair amount of squeaking when the belt rubbed).

As for the actual repair (I would rate myself as above average on tackling household repairs), it was about the simplest repair I've ever done. I followed the video provided on this site (excellent video) and it took less than 20 minutes -- cleaning up all of the lint/odds and ends under the washer and dryer took longer than the actual repair.

My only issue (minor) was disconnecting the electric harness. It did not slide as easily as in the video. I had to coax mine a bit with a small screwdriver (make sure your dryer is unplugged!!). I suspect it was simply a function of the harness never being unplugged -- the dryer is 9 years old.

I also felt great because I'm sure I saved a $125 service call (for only $26 in parts and 20 minutes of my life).

Good luck!
All Instructions for the KEYS850JQ0
46-60 of 1,061