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KEYS850GQ0 KitchenAid Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for KEYS850GQ0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the KEYS850GQ0
76-90 of 963
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Dryer belt broke- drum would not turn

  • Customer: Ronald from Oakdale, CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
This was so much easier than I though it was going to be. Pulled up on the top part of the dryer and folded it over to the back. Removed 2 screws for the front panel and disconnected some wires. Laying down I fed the new belt on and made sure the tensioner was put back into the right spot, because when the belt broke the tensioner sprung to the other end of its travel. Put everything back together. This was made super easy because you guys had the parts and the shipping was super fast. Alot of the local shops in the area didnt even carry the belt or were not helpful..

Start windings burnt out on original motor (dryer would not start)

  • Customer: Frank from Smyrna, TN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
The repair was fairly straight-forward. I removed the front of the dryer, lifted the top off, and then released the tension off the belt dy depressing the pulley arm. Once the belt was off, the drum came right out and then it was on to unhooking the wiring from the old motor. Very simple up till this point. The snag came when I went to unthread the impeller fan off of the old motor shaft. It was permanently sealed onto the shaft so I had to cut the old shaft into using a reciprocating saw was a metal-cutting blade. Once this was done the new motor installed easily exactly like the old one was mounted. I had to also purchase a new fan due to the fact that I was unable to remove the cut shaft from the old fan. All parts worked great and the dryer assembled back together easily. Works like a new dryer now.

Lint Filter screen torn and rusted

  • Customer: Albert from Burlington, MA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled to old out inserted the new. I would like to say your turn around from date part was ordered until I recieved it was three days, I find that amazing. I'm still waiting for a part I ordered from another company 1 month ago. The price was right shipping cost was very reasonable and your web site extremly easy to use. Thanks very much, Al

dryer drum belt broke

  • Customer: Paul from Athens, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I needed to remove the front lower cover, very easy as it is held on with clips only so I used a flat head screw driver to pop it off. I had to remove the lint filter and then there are two screws attaching the top cover of the dryer to the internal lint filter tray. The top of the dryer can then be opened front to back I again used the flat head screw driver to pop the top open as it has two clips at the front corners. It helps to have someone to hold it open or a rod of some type to keep it open. You can now lay the belt on the top of the drum and work it down the back side by pulling forward on the drum itself to seperate the drum from the seal that presses aginst the back side of the drum. I then went from the lower front to retrieve the belt now draped over the drum and pinched the belt to pass it through the tensioner and over the drive pulley. looking at it from the front the belt will come down the right side of the drum under the tensioner pulley around the drive pulley across the bottom of the drum and up the left side. The belt sits almost in the middle of the drum not against the back lip where there is a groove that might be confused as a place for the belt to ride that is where the seal sits then reverse the process to reattach the top to lint tunnel and reattach front cover and you are good to go . i would suggest vaccuming any old dust/ lint whlie everything is open as this reduces the chance for catching on fire I was supprised as to how much lint was loose inside the dryer cavity itself and our dryer is gas and the flame is an open flame.

Aft seal deterioated and causing brown spot on clothing due to netal to metal contact.

  • Customer: Cleo from Laurinburg, NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Removed top and front of dryer then drum and followed the instructions in the package. It was a real simple procedure. I did additional cleaning while the dryer was disassembled.

How to un-screw the blower fan!

  • Customer: Tim from Fremont, MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
The dryer motor quit working. Learned, if you are changing one that is old, get the blower wheel fan too! I could not break mine loose from the motor shaft, and had to bust it off.

To un-screw the blower wheel fan from the motor shaft: from the front of the dryer, grab the plastic fan on the back of the motor with an adjustable wrench, and the motor shaft on the front of the motor with vice grips. Turn the motor shaft CLOCKWISE holding the fan still to un-screw the fan. If you have to remove the pulley, grab the shaft and turn the pulley COUNTERCLOCKWISE with a wrench.

Just make sure to pay attention to the orientation of the new motor in the instructions. If you match the old motor, it will not fit. It is all spelled out in the directions.

Would not shut off when door opened, interior light would not come on.

  • Customer: Charles from Lake Mary, FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Replacing the part was easy: unscrew the old one from the front of the dryer after opening door, disconnect and replace with new one. Getting to it was a bit more difficult: Remove 6 screws from the back, 4 that hold the back of the top down and 2 that hold the control panel in place. You had to remove the control panel to free up the wiring bundle (held in place by a tie wrap inside the control panel housing) so you could move the top forwards enough. Then remove the top of the dryer by lifting the back up slightly and moving it forward to disconnect from attachments in the front and move aside to gain access to the switch.

Broken dryer belt

  • Customer: Steven from Bridgewater, MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Prop up the hood of the dryer with flat bar. Take out 2 screws holding dryer front end and 2 switch screws for dryer light inside dryer door. Secure dryer drum with bungee cord. Lift front end and remove. Remove broken belt. Route new belt over drum and pass underneatch idler pulley at botttom of dryer. Apply pressure to idler pulley w/one hand while securing belt around motor with the other. Make sure drum seals are snug between front and back of dryer while putting everything back together.
Have confidence. This is a very easy fix.

Dryer would spin but no heat

  • Customer: Timothy from Anderson, IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
First I unplugged the dryer from 240V and removed the back cover upper (behind the switch) and lower (exposing the remainder of the parts)

Inside the upper section was a folded wiring diagram of the dryer (don't know if this was courtesy of Whirlpool or another individual, but it was a very nice touch.)

I did a resistance measurement across the heating coil and found out it was fine. I then plugged the dryer back in and carefully took voltage measurements from one phase of power (this was easily accessed where the power comes in to the dryer, just be careful not to touch or short the wires)

I had an assistant turn on the dryer (this makes things go a little faster, as you are behind the dryer otherwise) and checked for 240V across the heater coil.

Once I did not have this, I kept one lead on the left side wire (one of the power phases coming into the dryer) and moved the other lead to the left (as viewed on the wiring diagram) until I no longer had 240V. This identified the faulty component as the Thermostat High-Limit, non resetable.

I ordered the kit with the High Limit NR and High limit Thermostat (as both had to be bad). I also ordered the 150 degree cycling thermostat (although this was not necessary - for <$20 I opted to replace it as well)

Removing wires one at a time, each component is fairly easy to replace.

My only complaint is that with the combo kit, the wire attachment is a little different that the original component and requires you to cut an existing wire and crimp a different terminal to allow all three wires on the High Limit thermostat (250 degrees) to be attached. There is little to show you how exactly the crimp is to be connected (it goes on the smaller of the three wires - DO NOT CUT the jumper provided and USE A GOOD CRIMPER - not the $2 variety, or you'll be getting a new connector!!) The connector provided is designed for some strain relief from one connector to the other, however) An additional jumper with the appropriate connectors already attached would be a nicer design.

Also, make sure you do NOT screw in the smaller cover that covers the power in until you place the entire lower half cover back on the dryer (unless you want to take it off a second time, as I did...) as it uses a common screw to hold both in place.

Overall, fairly easy to do with a minimum of tools, straight blade screwdriver to remove stubborn wire connectors (esp. for HT thermostat 250), ratchet and socket for quick removal and replacement of covers, and a good T&B style crimper ($10-$20 at your local hardware and well worth it even if you only use it a couple of times)

30 minutes and done - the dryer now cranks out the heat and the advanced settings (Auto dry) work great - no more 2-3 times throug to get things dry.

If you have a minimum of mechanical ability and a little bit of electronic troubleshooting skill, you can check and repair this youself and save about an $80-$100 service call.

Thanks to Part Select for the diagram of the dryer layout as well!! (Schematic would be nice if available online, though!)

Shipped the part in about 2 days from order time, as well. Will be back (hopefully not soon, though, as something has to break first!!!)

Be safe and good luck!

(One last note: Make sure your lint trap is clear including the hose - either due to build up or a lazy kid...as this probably caused the failure as heat could not escape...)

The old door catch failed. Clothes won't dry with door open !

  • Customer: Theresa from Norfolk, VA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Old door catch came out, new one slipped in. All works great.

drum wouldn't turn

  • Customer: Lisa from Woodstock, GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Actually, I was the handy man. First I removed the front panel. Then I used 3 - 2x4s to hold up the drum. Then I slipped the belt around the center of the drum ,motor,and around the pulley at the bottom of the dryer. That was it, and then I put it back together. My wife was amazed and proud that I did it without calling for help! No Problem!

Dryer would not cut off automatically. Timer not functioning

  • Customer: Alfred from Berkeley Heights, NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnected dryer from the electric supply.
Removed panel at rear of Control Console and loosened the 2 screws fastening the timer to the console.
Moved the old timer to left and screwed new timer in place.
Because of the number of electrical connections to be re- attached I decided to disconnect the wires from the old timer one at a time,starting from the left side and moving the terminals directly to the corresponding terminals on the new timer.This sequence ensured that I got each wire on the correct terminal and avoided having a lot of loose wires to choose from. The push-on terminals came off easily and pushed onto the new timer easily.
I rescrewed the back-plate to the control console,plugged in the dryer to the mains electrical supply and ran the dryer. It worked beautifully.

Broken drive belt

  • Customer: Stanley from Flushing, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I received the part I ordered immediately and the included instructions made installation a snap. Thank you for your help. I would not hesitate to order from your company again.

Loud screeching noise when dryer running

  • Customer: Stephen from Charlotte, NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
First, removed the bottom cover below the dryer door. This is just held on with two clips that can be pushed in with a flat screw driver. Then remove the springs that go from the bottom of the dryer to the inside of the dryer door. We had to remove the entire front of the dryer, so the easiest way we found was to loosen the two screws on the bottom of the front panel, but not remove them. Then pop up the top of the dryer. To lift the top, first remove the two screws under the little door where the lint trap goes. The top is hinged in the back, and it snaps down onto two clips that can easily be popped up with a flat screw driver) With the top opened, there are two screws accessible. When the front of the dryer is removed, there will be nothing to support the drum, so what we found was that if you rotate the drum, you'll find a point where there's a hole in the top of the drum. If you take the springs that you removed from the bottom of the door you can hook them into this hole, and hook the other end into a hole in the back wall of the dryer just behind the drum. The springs are the perfect size for this, and it keeps the drum from falling when you remove the front panel. then just disconnect the three wires going to the switch inside the front panel, and remove the two screws from the top of the front panel. It should then lift right off. The bearing can just be pulled away and the new one installed. Put everything together again in reverse order.

Door latch catch broke

  • Customer: Raymond from Washington, DC
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I squeezed the latch catch with a pair of pliers and pushed it in the catch hole. But that was the final repair. There were two "repairs" before that. First, we used two commercial grade rolls of wide plastic tape to tape the dryer door shut each time we used it, for a year, until we ran out of tape. Second, we positioned a chest of drawers in front of the dryer and wedged a 1" x 4" against the door. Very effective. Then I broke down and ordered the $3 catch.
All Instructions for the KEYS850GQ0
76-90 of 963