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Models > KEYS850GQ0 > Instructions

KEYS850GQ0 KitchenAid Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for KEYS850GQ0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the KEYS850GQ0
61-75 of 963
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Door latch (female part) was broken.

  • Customer: JEANMARIE from BELLEROSE, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I used a screwdriver to remove the old part and pushed the new part in with my fingers, it was very easy. If I could do it, anyone can. I was a lot cheaper then having a repair man come to house. I am very glad I found your site online, I will definitely be using your company again.

Timer didn't move the dial while drying

  • Customer: Michael P from Flagstaff, AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug the power cord. Next I removed the 6 screws that held the top back panel in place. Then pull the dial off the timer post. Then unscrew the 2 screws holding the timer in place. At this point it would have been "really easy" to swap the wires from the old timer to the new timer, except the wires that slid onto the posts also had a piece that locked them into place. I had to rig a paper clip with a small bend at the end to poke into the hole to release the small metal piece that locked it into place before sliding off the wire. Some were a bit difficult to reach because of the angle of the wire post and what was next to it on the timer. All in all though this phase took less than 15 minutes, so it wasn't too bad. After swapping the wires from the old timer to the new timer, reverse the disassembly procedures to put everything back in place. The new timer works better than my old one before it broke, ensuring my clothes are actually dry when setting it on the sensor-dry setting. And it actually does what it's supposed to when finished drying - that is activate the buzzer, and tumble the clothes every 5 minutes or so to prevent wrinkling.

How to un-screw the blower fan!

  • Customer: Tim from Fremont, MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
The dryer motor quit working. Learned, if you are changing one that is old, get the blower wheel fan too! I could not break mine loose from the motor shaft, and had to bust it off.

To un-screw the blower wheel fan from the motor shaft: from the front of the dryer, grab the plastic fan on the back of the motor with an adjustable wrench, and the motor shaft on the front of the motor with vice grips. Turn the motor shaft CLOCKWISE holding the fan still to un-screw the fan. If you have to remove the pulley, grab the shaft and turn the pulley COUNTERCLOCKWISE with a wrench.

Just make sure to pay attention to the orientation of the new motor in the instructions. If you match the old motor, it will not fit. It is all spelled out in the directions.

dryer would stall and the motor would hum before tripping circuit breaker

  • Customer: Charles from Placentia, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
When the problem first came up, I took the dryer apart without first looking up any instructions. This wasn't difficult, but didn't realize when removing the fan from the motor, there is a square lug as part of the fan hidden by the rear clamp securing the motor. I was able to remove the fan by holding the motor shaft with a crescent wrench and removing the fan by hand, but was difficult and gloves were necessary in case the fan loosened quickly and my hand came in contact with the sheet metal (very sharp).

I took the motor out and attempted to clean it as it was loaded with dust as was the dryer internals. I tried to lube the motor bearings and appeared to free up, but the sight of metal shavings on the rear bearing seal had me concerned. This ultimely did not work and was trying to buy some time until the new motor arrived.

This is when I looked up the motor part number and found that Parts Select had the part number in stock. I ordered the motor on a Saturday afternoon and got a quick response acknowledging my order. The motor shipped that following Monday from Fresno and arrived on my Southern California doorstep Tuesday. These guys have their act together and are helpful in making the repairs. In my case I did not have to make any adjustments to the wiring or the pulley for my model and replaced the motor the following weekend in about 45 minutes. Since I had the unit apart several times before replacing the motor, the installation went quickly.

The dryer is again working fine for a unit 12 years old and my wife is once again happy that we didn't have to purchase a new dryer.

Defective Door Switch

  • Customer: George from Bedford, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Opened the lid and removed screws hollding switch to cabinet. Had to use magnifying glass to find locking mechanism on the electrical harness. Used small bladed screwdiver from my computer maintenaqnce kit to disengae lock. Hooked up harness. Replaced screws and shut lid. Main difficulty is my near vision. Requires use of a magnifier I am 80 years old). Your video is great. Gives step by step instructions.

Shattered Blower Wheel

  • Customer: Ted from Russellville, AR
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench set
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I followed this very helpful video. But when installing the dryer drum, I used a pillow underneath to keep it in place. http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Blower-Wheel/694089/686172#repairHelpVideoTabs

Door switch was broken

  • Customer: Anthony from Orlando, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I typed in on my brouser Repair Kitchen Aid Dryer door switch.
And on You Tube up came several videos showing me how to ewmove the switch and install the new one.

The hardest part of the job was not instaling the switch but the dryer Vent hose from the back of the dryer after I puled it away from the wall, it disconnected and the I had to Pull the Washer out which was right next to it so I could put the vent hose back to the dyer. I has to disconnect the Hot/cold water line pull the washer out connect the dyer hose reconnect the cold /hot water lines and yada yada yada

dryer would not turn off when the door is open

  • Customer: James from Webster, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
it took loess than 10 minutes to change the door switch after watching the repair video

Old motor was making noise and tripping after a few minutes

  • Customer: John from Midland, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I disassembled the dryer once to clean the motor and compartment. After reasembly, the problem persistes. I ordered the motor and the second diasasssembly was accomplished in 10 minutes and the entire job took 45 minutes and the dryer was running like new. Tip- Leave the motor secured while removing the blower fan.

Dryer would spin but no heat

  • Customer: Timothy from Anderson, IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
First I unplugged the dryer from 240V and removed the back cover upper (behind the switch) and lower (exposing the remainder of the parts)

Inside the upper section was a folded wiring diagram of the dryer (don't know if this was courtesy of Whirlpool or another individual, but it was a very nice touch.)

I did a resistance measurement across the heating coil and found out it was fine. I then plugged the dryer back in and carefully took voltage measurements from one phase of power (this was easily accessed where the power comes in to the dryer, just be careful not to touch or short the wires)

I had an assistant turn on the dryer (this makes things go a little faster, as you are behind the dryer otherwise) and checked for 240V across the heater coil.

Once I did not have this, I kept one lead on the left side wire (one of the power phases coming into the dryer) and moved the other lead to the left (as viewed on the wiring diagram) until I no longer had 240V. This identified the faulty component as the Thermostat High-Limit, non resetable.

I ordered the kit with the High Limit NR and High limit Thermostat (as both had to be bad). I also ordered the 150 degree cycling thermostat (although this was not necessary - for <$20 I opted to replace it as well)

Removing wires one at a time, each component is fairly easy to replace.

My only complaint is that with the combo kit, the wire attachment is a little different that the original component and requires you to cut an existing wire and crimp a different terminal to allow all three wires on the High Limit thermostat (250 degrees) to be attached. There is little to show you how exactly the crimp is to be connected (it goes on the smaller of the three wires - DO NOT CUT the jumper provided and USE A GOOD CRIMPER - not the $2 variety, or you'll be getting a new connector!!) The connector provided is designed for some strain relief from one connector to the other, however) An additional jumper with the appropriate connectors already attached would be a nicer design.

Also, make sure you do NOT screw in the smaller cover that covers the power in until you place the entire lower half cover back on the dryer (unless you want to take it off a second time, as I did...) as it uses a common screw to hold both in place.

Overall, fairly easy to do with a minimum of tools, straight blade screwdriver to remove stubborn wire connectors (esp. for HT thermostat 250), ratchet and socket for quick removal and replacement of covers, and a good T&B style crimper ($10-$20 at your local hardware and well worth it even if you only use it a couple of times)

30 minutes and done - the dryer now cranks out the heat and the advanced settings (Auto dry) work great - no more 2-3 times throug to get things dry.

If you have a minimum of mechanical ability and a little bit of electronic troubleshooting skill, you can check and repair this youself and save about an $80-$100 service call.

Thanks to Part Select for the diagram of the dryer layout as well!! (Schematic would be nice if available online, though!)

Shipped the part in about 2 days from order time, as well. Will be back (hopefully not soon, though, as something has to break first!!!)

Be safe and good luck!

(One last note: Make sure your lint trap is clear including the hose - either due to build up or a lazy kid...as this probably caused the failure as heat could not escape...)

Dryer Would Not Start.

  • Customer: GALEN from NEDERLAND, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Partselect order confirmation email included video instructions of how to change the door switch on my model dryer. Like others I had a pause with the switch connector. I viewed the video again and the instrucions showed to use the putty knife tip to push down on the connector tabs and it came right off. Replacing the switch was easy as the video instructions. Fast shipping of the right part at a good price. The video was pricless. Thank you partselect.

Broken dryer belt

  • Customer: Steven from Bridgewater, MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Prop up the hood of the dryer with flat bar. Take out 2 screws holding dryer front end and 2 switch screws for dryer light inside dryer door. Secure dryer drum with bungee cord. Lift front end and remove. Remove broken belt. Route new belt over drum and pass underneatch idler pulley at botttom of dryer. Apply pressure to idler pulley w/one hand while securing belt around motor with the other. Make sure drum seals are snug between front and back of dryer while putting everything back together.
Have confidence. This is a very easy fix.

Broken Door Handle on Front of Dryer

  • Customer: Jeff from Wausau, WI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 11 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Do to age and heat the dryer door handle was brittle and broke. Ordering was easy on line. Part was delivered faster tan expected. Oh and the repair time, Less than 1-minute.

Thanks for the great service.

Dryer Didn't Run

  • Customer: William from Long Valley, NJ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged washer,removed the two screws by the lint trap,moved the top foward lifted the top (it'shinged in the back )the switch is right inside the door top right hand corner removed the two screws that hold the switch in place used a flatblade screwdriver to seperate the connections pulled off the old installed the new switch put every thing back together worked as though it wes never broken

Humming noise then quit after pushing start. Drum would not turn manually.

  • Customer: Derek from Missouri City, TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Looking at the schematics, it wasn't clear exactly where the motor was located. I took off the rear panel thinking I could get to the motor through the blower. Realizing that was a no-go, I did some web searching and found that the lint screen chute had to be unscrewed, the top had to be lifted to gain access to the top 2 screws holding the front panel to to the main body. The barrel was then dropped and the rib belt removed from around it so I could set it aside. The clips were removed from the front and the back of the motor to gain access to the blower shaft. .The motor shaft is screwed into the blower shaft but it took me a while to figure out how to grab the blower shaft( made of hardened plastic?) with an adjustable wrench while torquing the end of the shaft with a (3/4"?) socket wrench. Access to the rear was rough, but getting the motor out an back in was easy. The spring tensioner for the belt was the next hurdle. With the s-curve facing outward and clipped to the base, the belt with the rib side wrapped around the barrel, the belt was slid between the roller and the tensioner bracket and wrapped around the motor drive rib side inward. I had to take the old motor to kind of prop up the barrel so I could at least see the tensioner and motor interface. I had to do a balance trick where I held the barrel up while centering it to the belt and the rear panel while ensuring the cloth seal was seated to the outside of the chamber. The front panel went on, and the front cloth seal was seated by spinning the barrel. The rest was just a matter of reversing the steps. Tons of lint/dust is probably what crashed this motor. Disassembling the front and the back allowed a thorough clean up - vacuuming and wipe down. Should go another 10 years/
All Instructions for the KEYS850GQ0
61-75 of 963