KEYS750JQ1 KitchenAid Dryer - Instructions

Before calling a repairman, I researched the problem at partselect.com. I am so glad that I did. It saved be a lot of money. I was able to narrow down the cause of "No Heat", and ordered a new Heating Element for the dryer thru partselect.com. The part arrived very quickly, and I was able to install the new part by first watching the installation videos at partselect.com. This could not have gone smoother, and I could not be happier. And, "no", I do not work for partselect.com. :)

Followed instructions on the installation video you had on line. Really easy and fixed the problem.

repair went just as describe in video.

I watched the videos associated with the parts. They were easy to understand and I could follow the steps without difficulty. I replaced both the cycling thermostat and thermal fuse. Separately, I also replaced the "push-to-start" switch. Dryer would still not start. I called the repairman. Problem turned out to be a loose wire that had shorted out in the electrical bar near the "push-to-start" switch. All parts I replaced are determined to be good and will be tried next time I experience the dryer "not starting".

Unpluged dryer first! Diconnected the vent hose.Took out 9 screws out of back panel.1 screw for the thermal fuse disconnected the two wires. Put new one in connected the wires. Then took out 1 screw that held the thermostat in place took 4 wires off. Put new one in reconnected the wires. Vacuumed out the back. Put back panel on. Connected the vent hose, plugged the dryer in. Pushed the start button & started drying clothes. Very easy!

I followed the video. Removed two screws by the lint filter, lifted up the 2 sides to the top of the dyer, removed the two screws by the door switch. It was that easy. The hard part came when I tried to remove the old switch that took the most time. I used the butter knife, since it was very flat I was able to lift it off. Put in the new switch, put all the parts back together again and it worked just fine. Thank you, PartSelect, I will come to you first. You saved me at least $150.00....

It was really easy I watched your video on how to do it the video went step by step and was very helpful

First I watched a instruction video online.. It made the job easy. I have done it before but I did not remember exactly how to proceed, After watching the video i knew exactly what screws needed to be removed and what tool I needed for each step. Anybody sees the video before tackling this job, they can't go wrong.

Pulled off back panel, replaced thermostat, replaced heating element.

I followed the instructions almost exactly as the video and it was very simple. A few of the parts were a little difficult to get off but with a little tugging they popped off. After the initial installation I ran the dryer and the items didn't dry, so I ran it again and got the same result. Fortunately, not know I had already attempted to dry twice, my wife put a load in and it worked perfectly and has been since. Not sure the reason but it took 3 attempts before the heating element worked and I have a 12.5 year old drying that works good as new!

followed video on line

I did as your online movie said to do it. It is a big help and you can see that the belt, rollers and idler pulley is not a difficult job and you save yourself at least $100. Toughest part of job is putting back the nylon triangle things that hold the rollers on without breaking them.That is why I used the needlenose pliers. The triangle things that hold on the rollers have little tabs on them and I just gently pulled them outward and the triangles went right on.That repair kit from Whirlpool(builder of my Kenmore dryer)was a real bargain and everything fit perfectly. Bottom line is don't be afraid to try this repair. You will most likely succede. Go out to diner with the money you saved. Good luck, Mike

I followed the instructions according to your repair video and they worked perfectly. Thank you for the video, very clear and helpful giving me the self confidence to do the job myself! Part delivery was three days and the money I saved by not calling a repair man is greatly appreciated. I am already recommending part select to others at work!

To make sure the dryer didn't die catastrophically, I checked to make sure the timer, the light, and the push to start start switch and the door switch were still working. After they were diagnosed to be working properly, I unplugged the dryer and pulled it back from the wall so I would have enough room to work behind it. The first item you will need is the wiring diagram. If you do not have one, one can be obtained online by using your dryer brand and model number. The next thing you will need is a quality digital multimeter that measures resistance or continuity. The last thing you will need is a 1/4" nutdriver. The first thing you will need to do is remove the exhaust tube from the back of the dryer. The second step is to remove a small black plate located near a green ground screw. The 3rd step is to remove the large black cover on the back of the dryer. Once this is removed, you will need to locate the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is a small component that has 2 blue wires connected to it. It is located on the housing where the steam from your clothes leads to the exhaust port. The first thing you need to do is disconnect the 2 blue wires. Once the wires are disconnected, set the multimeter to resistance. The unit of resistance is ohms and the greek letter omega is used. The red lead of your multimeter goes one metal tabe of the fuse and the black lead goes on the other one. If the multimeter measures 0. L ohms, then the fuse is bad and needs to be replaced. If the multimeter reads 00.00 ohms then the fuse is good and you have another problem. I hope these instructions were useful.

The video help to give confidence to change out the components since they were so inexpensive and the alternative was to go out and buy a new dryer.. It was easy to remove the back panel off dryer (after unplugging from the wall of course). The two components were unscrewed, cables unattached using pliers and replaced. The faulty element was definitely an open thermal fuse. For some reason there was a 5 Ohm resistance when the cables were connected.. Which confused me at first as I thought the fuse was not blown. I guess there was some conductance across the cabinet body. Anyway after replacing the fuse and thermostat the dryer was back to fully operational. I think it now actually drys better than before but that may just be wishful thinking.