KEYS677EQ2 KitchenAid Dryer - Instructions

I put my mind into the repair based on what I saw for a problem and what was given for advise. I was steered toward the thermal fuse, ordered and installed it. Not repaired, in checking the power backward to the panel I found that the dedicated panel had one side blown still allowing for the motor to run but not the element. hmmm

put in new heating element did not fix then bought a tester thermostat above heating element was open when cold replaced now dryer works fine

Watched the video and performed as instructed- Could not have been easier- Great site with Great information

I came home from work to notice the dryer singing a different tune than usual. I opened the door and noticed that the tub wasnt turning. I popped the top of the dryer up to find a disentigrated belt. Fired up the computer and in a few minutes had ordered the $8 ($15 including shipping) replacement belt. 3 Days later took the shopvac and cleaned up the lint and broken belt pieces. Installed the new belt and was back in business with my 8 year old dryer. ** The only complaint comes from my wife who got her hopes up for a new front load washer and dryer** thanks partselect for saving my wallet in more than one way!

Remove two screws on top holding the filter frame.Use flat screwdriver to snap top at front off front panel.Swing top up and secure it against wall or tie in place. Remove screws holding front panel and kick panel to side panels.Did'nt remove back panel.Remove drive belt from pully wheel and then use belt to lift out drum.Use open end wrench on motor pully at rear and I used a socket set on the front of motor,Push down on wrench,counter clockwise,and hold the front pully from moving mine came right off. My dryer is over 10 yrs so the electric conection was changed but the instruction sheet explained how to change the wires,just follow the wire color,easy.

I found some help on-line that suggested some of the most likely causes. The on-line videos showed how to remove clips/panels to access the parts. Once I found the possibly failed parts, door switch and thermal fuse, I did a quick continuity check and found that the thermal fuse had an open circuit.

Took off the backplate of dryer, replaced fuse, done.

afer looking at the expoled views of the drier and locating the switch i checked to switch operation and found it wouldn't click.i ordered the switch,it arrived in just a couple days(right in the middle of the xmas holidays)i popped the top on the drier after finding 2 screws on the lint screen opening on top,2 screws mounted the switch,reassembled in reverse order and tested the drier.it was easy and with the new part in hand i saved aprox 200.00 dollars fixing it myself. p.s. please unplug the drier before starting any repairs...

My black very cool 15 year old Kithenaid electric dryer stopped working. No power. I tried the timer and it was still clicking like it was working. I opened the door then pushed the on button and heard a click which made me feel the door switch and on button were working. I replaced the cycling thermostat and thermal fuse and everything is fine. I wish i would have bought the other thermostat as I was right there and it was not that much. Dyer is working fine. This site is great. My repair guy moved out of state...I also disassembled the vent tube and vacuumed out all sorts of stuff and vacuumed the motor and all the area I could get to with the back, top and lower cover removed and waxed the dryer.

i found the door switch broken was the cause of the problem and decided to replace the switch. I decided at the same time to replace the fuse link and both were very easy after viewing the video Jerry

PROBLEM: Intermittently, the dryer would not advance on the Auto Dry setting and would stay at max heat continuously, even after 2.5 hours with the clothes dry and very warm. At first, I replaced the CYCLING THERMOSTAT, which DID NOT correct this issue. Then I also found the 60 Minute Timed dry setting would work fine until the end of the cycle and the dryer would stop like it should. Then, I checked back 10-15 minutes later and found the timer had advanced into Fluff Dry Timed cycle with heater on full, but the dryer not moving air. This caused the Thermo-Cut switch (fuse) off to open and the Heater Element would not put out enough heat to dry the clothes. TROUBLESHOOTING: 1- UNPLUG the dryer for all troubleshooting and set the DVM for OHMS ( or use ohm-meter). 2- Both the Cycling Thermostat and High Limit Thermostat checked good at 0 ohms (dryer unplugged). The entire Thermo Cut-off/Thermostat circuit can be checked at the Timer (VERIFY proper wire color with dryer schematic in top console), which also verifies the wires are good and should be 0 ohms without the Heater Element in the circuit. For the Whirlpool WED5300SQ0 dryer, it's the Red and Orange wires at the Timer. 3- If the Heater Element is in the circuit (see schematic for test points), look for between 8-12 ohms for a good Heater Element. For the Whirlpool WED5300SQ0 dryer, it's the Red and White/Black wires at the Timer or across the Heater Element connection. SOLUTION: The Heater Element checked out good at 10 ohms. When the Heater Element was physically removed from the dryer one of the PORCELAIN MOUNTS was BUSTED, which caused the heater element coil to intermittently come in contact with the dryer housing while running/drying clothes, which caused the Timer to not advance on Auto Dry when the Cycling Thermostat Opened and malfunction for the Timed Dry settings. To physically check the Heater Element, just remove the 2 screws and the wires to the High Limit Thermostat can stay hooked up. The Thermo-Cut off kit is easy to install and there is a installation video if there are questions. Just be careful to NOT cut the Heater Element connector on the Jumper wire kit. The spade connector for the heater element is wider than the other side that is cut off for the dual spade connector. The Heater Element is easy to replace as well. If the Thermo-Cutoff Kit is being installed, the new High Limit Thermostat can be mounted to the new Heater Element before it is mounted to the dryer housing, which makes it easier to screw in the self-tapping screws. After this repair was completed, dryer has functioned perfectly after many loads of clothes using all dryer settings.

I was pretty sure it was the heating element. I watched two different Youtube videos. Once I cleaned up all of the trash and coins behind the dryer, it was just a matter of removing the screws from the back. I disconnected the wires, replaced the element, and reconnected everything and replaced all of the screws. It works perfectly again!

my friends came over and helped me. we loved the instruction video. made it much easier.

I won't tell you how we did it, but I'll tell you the right way. Unplug. Remove the exhaust tubing attached to back of dryer. Pry the top up from the front and lean it against the wall. Un plug the wires attached to the front panel (remember where they go) Remove screws at top sides of front panel. "lift up" and remove. Close top. Lay machine on its back. We used a couple of 2x4's to lay it on so as not to crush the vest collar. Clean it out, including lint filter. The new belt wraps around the drum, you will see the channel about midway on drum. Feel behind the motor on the lower right side. There is a shaft with a channel for the belt. Immediately next to that is another pulley type arm with another channel for the belt. This arm moves stiffly and puts tension on the belt when installed correctly. Look at the diagram included with the new belt which shows the path of the belt. Wrap the belt, ridges against the drum and then around the motor shaft. At this point you have to physically pull the last arm out to allow the belt to wrap around the channel provided. If the belt is not twisted , the job is done. Turn the drum with your hands to make sure it is turning properly. Replace the front panel, plug in the electricals, replace the screws making sure the drum is properly centered. Stand up the dryer. Plug in and turn on dryer to make sure everything is right. Replace the exhaust tubing and set into place. Sounds like a lot of steps but I have described the whole process for you beginners. The rest of you will know already. Good Luck . Oh by the way we are 69 and 71. If we can do it, so can you

Unplug the dryer, remove hot air duct. Remove metal dryer back to access thermostat using a nut driver. Unscrew one screw holding on thermostat, detach 4 wires, and replace with new unit, attaching 4 wires to new unit. Then reverse process to button up the dryer. Great how-to video on your site helped a lot!