KEYE800SWH1 KitchenAid Dryer - Instructions

1. Shut off gas and disconnected dryer.
2. Opened cabinet. Easy sheet metal screws and fairly obvious how everything goes together. NB: You'll need a block (or a helper to hold things while you run to look for one) to hold the drum while removing the front.
3. The motor is connected with a single harness, so wiring is a snap.
4. Removing the blower wheel from the back was hard. I braced the motor shaft and turned with all the leverage I could muster, but it was stuck. Plan B: Recip saw to cut the shaft. Motor comes out one side and the fan comes out the other.
5. The fan, of course, was unusable because there was still a piece of motor shaft stuck in the thread. This is why I had to spring for a new wheel.
6. Put everything back together and receive wife's adoring praise...

So the first thing I did was search the web for the parts and came to this site. I knew the model and that I needed rollers and a rear seal. I found both on this site for order in less than 10 minutes, which included finding the wonderful diagrams and directions for replacing the parts. I placed the order got the parts two days later.

I printed out the directions to take the drum out and followed them. After unplugging the dryer, I pushed in the clips that were indicated to release the top and pushed that up. I then disconnected the door switch. I reached under the dryer (not having a kicker panel for some years...) and worked to release the belt. I then took the front off removing the four screws as described. The drum removal was a little more awkward than I had anticipated, but came out without major hassle. Getting the drive belt off was the worst part other than the size.

I then removed the warn rollers after taking the clips off with a pair of needle nose pliers. I put the new rollers on and secured them.

I then went to the drum.After cleaning it a bit, I attempted to dry fit the seal onto the drum to get the idea of how it would fit. This didn't work easily as the seal needed to stretch a bit more than it could while staying on all around. I grabbed a couple of clamps and worked it on using those. Once that was sorted I started to apply the glue. It was more runny than I had anticipated. After working that around the seal I let it dry overnight to an excellent bond.

The next day I put the drum back in, adjusted the seal properly and put the machine back together. The tension roller is not fixed to the machine so getting that back on was a little bit of a trick but was overcome easily enough.

A few loads of laundry later and I knew it was all done and working OK. It hasn't dried this good or been this quiet in years.

This was my first major appliance repair. With the assistance of the diagrams on here and directions I would say to anyone contemplating a diy repair on something like this to give it a shot.

My only recommendation to the site is to more visibly recommend doing the seals, rollers and drive belt at the same time. While in there I could see wear on the drive belt and will probably need to replace that in the next six months or so.

Found one of the two drum support rollers was badly worn. Found Partselect.com, found my parts in less then 2 mins. Figured that I was in there so I should just replace the belt so I got one of those also. Parts arrived in 3 days dryer as good as new in 20 mins.

I opened up the dryer as per the instructions I had received from PartSelect tech support. It was very easy to do. The only unexpected thing was that the original belt had snapped and in doing so the idler pulley was actually laying on the floor of the dryer's bottom. I had to figure out how it went, but that only took a minute and I popped it back into place. I held the drum by hand while pulling the dryer face away so it wouldn't fall and then I slipped the belt over the drum and quickly closed the front up again. I aligned the belt on the spot where the old one had been, pulled it through the idler pulley and over the motor and voila. Done. I closed up the dryer and was on to another "Honey Do" project within 20 minutes.

Removed back of dryer, there were 3 screws on each side. There were two thermostats on the output vent and one thermostat on the heating element housing. Adjusted the temp settings on the thermostats per the instructions received with each thermostat (cross-refernece of original number required). Each thermostat had two screws and two wires. Terminals were coded "1" and "3," must get correct wires back in same place. The heating element thermostat required to splice new connector on one wire (per instructions enclosed with thermostat).. Easy as pie. BELT: Remove screws from lint screen housing, then pry up front of top of dryer and swing back (make sure you are next to the wall so it doesn't fall.) Remove the bottom front panel, remove the door tension springs, remove the two screws on the front of the front panel and remove the two top screws on the inside of the door panel (leave the door attached, but use tape to hold it shut so it doesn't hit you on the head) Careful of the door switch wire, carefully lean door up so it doesn't fall. The Drum will fall when front panel is removed, so have someone to help you hold it up. You do not have to remove the drum. With your frend holding the drum, go under and pull the tension spring roller back to slack up the belt and remove the belt from the tensioner and motor pulley. Remove belt from drum. Wrap new belt around drum (ribs down facing drum) and re-route belt around pulleys according to diagram in instructions (same way you pulled it off). I did it by myself, but I got konked in the head by the door, so be careful. Easy, but awkward. Watch for sharp sheetmetal edges.

First I raised the top of the dryer(after unplugging the power cord) disconnected two wires to the front door switch and then removed two screws using a nutdriver. The front cover lifts up and while supporting the drum set the cover aside. Slide the belt off the drum and remove it. I then removed the two support roller tri rings and replaced the rollers and tri rings and reassymbled the dryer.
It was a very simple repair.

Thanks Mike

Popped the lower cover off the dryer, found the thermal fuse and thermostat mounted on the heating tube. Removed the screws with a nutdriver, swapped wires to the new parts, and reinstalled. Then I spent 30 minutes vacuuming 13 years worth of lint and crud out of the machine - it was pretty gummed up in spots, which is probably the cause of the failure.
I have a 25 foot run of hose from the dryer outside, so I replaced that with 4" metal ducting. Clothes dry much faster now!!! Maybe my electric bill will go down (fat chance :) )

I lifted the top of the dryer cabinet, like the hood of a car using a screwdriver to pry it open. I removed the two screws in the upper right corner of the cabinet front. I disconnected the safty switch on the front door. The front of the cabinet can then be removed by lifting up the front off the pins in the base. With the drum exposed you can place the belt on and thread it through the two pulleys on the motor. Consult the diagrams provided on the PartsSelect website for the proper positioning of the belt on the pulleys. After the belt is installed spin the drum by hand one turn to make sure that it is seated properly on the drum and pulleys. Reassemble the dryer in the reverve order.

I used a screwdriver to remove the old part and pushed the new part in with my fingers, it was very easy. If I could do it, anyone can. I was a lot cheaper then having a repair man come to house. I am very glad I found your site online, I will definitely be using your company again.

When the problem first came up, I took the dryer apart without first looking up any instructions. This wasn't difficult, but didn't realize when removing the fan from the motor, there is a square lug as part of the fan hidden by the rear clamp securing the motor. I was able to remove the fan by holding the motor shaft with a crescent wrench and removing the fan by hand, but was difficult and gloves were necessary in case the fan loosened quickly and my hand came in contact with the sheet metal (very sharp).

I took the motor out and attempted to clean it as it was loaded with dust as was the dryer internals. I tried to lube the motor bearings and appeared to free up, but the sight of metal shavings on the rear bearing seal had me concerned. This ultimely did not work and was trying to buy some time until the new motor arrived.

This is when I looked up the motor part number and found that Parts Select had the part number in stock. I ordered the motor on a Saturday afternoon and got a quick response acknowledging my order. The motor shipped that following Monday from Fresno and arrived on my Southern California doorstep Tuesday. These guys have their act together and are helpful in making the repairs. In my case I did not have to make any adjustments to the wiring or the pulley for my model and replaced the motor the following weekend in about 45 minutes. Since I had the unit apart several times before replacing the motor, the installation went quickly.

The dryer is again working fine for a unit 12 years old and my wife is once again happy that we didn't have to purchase a new dryer.

My dad was ready to spend $2000 on a new washer/dryer (he has to have a matching set!). Anyway, his dryer would not generate heat. A google search turned up partselect.com, which walked me through the procedure to see what we needed.

It turned out to be a simple to replace $25.00 part! The dryer is drying as if it was brand new. Saved $1,975. Hehe.

Thanks, partselect!

I lifted the top of the dryer and removed the front panel. I removed the drum exposing the drum rollers. I replaced the rollers and reassembled the dryer. The exploded views on the web site made it easy to see what to do.

Braced dryer drum with a block. Removed the two rollers one at a time by using a screwdriver to pop off the triangular clip. Slid on new rollers. Would have been easier to remove the drum out the front instead of bracing it. Installed new idler pulley and belt. Dryer is 25 years old and sounds like a new one now when running.

pressed clip into hole on top of front panel. first remove two philip screws that hold filter so you can lift top up.

Replaced the thermastat first, then the cutoff switch, still the same, I then replaced the thermister, and still have the problem.