KEYE770BAL2 KitchenAid Dryer - Instructions

replaced it. very easily.

just the way the video showd me

Seriously, there's no need to explain how to do it because the video shown on how to change the thermal fuse is as precise and accurate as it can get. You should have no problem switching out the thermal fuse as long as you have watched the video!

The repair was simple, and easy. And would be for any of the parts related to the issue of "no heat" or "not enough heat", however I had never used a multimeter before, and the learning curve was not simple. I ended up ordering a total of four parts, three of which weren't needed in order to perform this repair. Replacing the defective part was very easy. I wish I had been able to find better instructions on the internet or the Partselect website on how to use a mulitmeter to diagnose which part was broken. This would have saved me a couple of days waiting for the correct parts and hours of internet searching for clear instructions. It turned out that the main issue was that some of the parts needed to be checked for continuity and some for resistance. Not knowing which meant a lot of trial and error before I was able to figure out which part was broken. In fact, I really was only able to figure it out AFTER i had the new parts and was able to test the new ones next to the ones in the dryer and see which didn't read the same on the multimeter.

Thousand dollars for a new dryer or twenty bucks for a new belt. Thank-you parts select. Ordering was easy and the instructions were bang on!

flipped up top, removed 2 5/16 screws fro front face, removed belt and drum. removed rear seal and instaled new seal and assembled in revers order

Upon receiving the parts from Parts Select I reviewed the contents of the package and then compared with what i had ordered. I then reviewed the video to locate the part and to ensure correct dis-assembly and installation. I had no problem with the new installation once I sorted out the wiring. Th PS video for this model describes and shows three red or orange wires coming for the harness two standard and on e thin wire which goes to the thermal cut-off. In my dryer this orange or red wire was actually bland white striped. I called PS who suggested I call Whirlpool who also could not help and insisted that this model had an orange wire where I was describing it as black, the concern was was that with this new thermal cut-off wires had to be cut and fitted with new ends to accommodate a change in design. I therefore did a little temporary wiring t before I cut any wires to ensure my assessment was correct. I was then able to cut the black and white wire fit it with a new end and plug it into the double connector that was now fitted to the jumper cable. I the connected the double connector to the thermal cut-off and tested the dryer for heat. I re-fitted the back panel and re-positioned the dryer to present everything is working satisfactorily. I would comment that someone needs to check why my dryer had a black and whit cable coming from the harness when both Whirlpool and the PS video show it as orange/red.

replaced fuse great website

We got this dryer from my F-I-L after they had to enter an elderly home. My F-I-L was a modern Tim-Tool-Man-Tyler. He had removed most of the protections and installed a 392 Thermal cut off, I guess he wanted to dry his cloths in 30 seconds or less. I was not aware of this, and used the dryer. Yes you guessed it, we sat it for a 30 minute cycle and it blew the cut-off and melted the wiring. I am a degree/certified computer tech so I fixed it myself, but I hate 220 electricity. Need less to say I checked with this site for the OEM parts and they pointed me in the correct direction. I did have to remake some of the wires since they were crisp, but it all went well and it was easy enough. The lesson, companies install OEM parts for a GOOD reason, best always to follow the makers directions.

As per online video instruction. Easy as pie...

unhinged top panel. removed front panel. installed belt and reinstalled front and top panel.

Got the part in 2 days, fixed it. Thanks

What a pain in the butt to route the belt thru the tensioner! There's room for only one hand in there. The guys who do this for a living must have some secret. My solution was to drill a 3/16 hole thru the side, make a j-hook from 8-32 threaded rod, use that and a wing nut to pre-load the tensioner, route the belt, then slowly back off the wing nut until the belt was tight. It works. . . .

first I unplugged the dryer. Then I removed the back of the dryer with a 1/4" nut driver. with the back off using the same 1/4" nut driver I removed the one screw that holds the cycling t-stat slowly remove the t-stat and take one wire off at a time and plug it onto the new t-stat once all wires are replaced. place the t-stat back in and secure with the screw. Then put the back of the dryer back on. put the dryer vent hose back on. plug in and away you go. repair done. If that doesn't fix it. Then the next step is probably to check the gas valve coils. That is a little more difficult repair but not to hard.

Remove back pannel heating element easy to replace. Partselect has the best service ever...