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KEYE660WWH1 KitchenAid Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for KEYE660WWH1 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the KEYE660WWH1
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The Door Switch Actuator Spring had broken

  • Customer: Norman from Allen TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I took the dryer apart by visually looking at it and removing screws, etc. until I had the top off and the front off. I took the dryer apart so I could get the part out and use it visually ascertain I was ordering the same part.

I bought the replacement part and only then did I have the instructions to take the dryer apart. It was further apart than the instructions said. I had to take the front off to retrieve the broken part which had fallen inside the front of the dryer.

I put the front back on the dryer and installed the new part, which, fortunately could only be installed one way. Once I had the two screws tightened into the part, the remainder was to simply follow the instructions that came from your web site and put the link filter and top of the dryer back on. Of course, I plugged in the dryer and checked to see that it ran before completing this.

I am amazed that I was able to find this part for a 30 year old dryer. The part hasn't changed at all. I guess, if you have a good part, there's no need to modify it.

Dryer had quit turning

  • Customer: Martin from Lynchburg VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I first disconnected the power cord and the vent hose. I removed the screws on the top of the back side to raise the top of the unit. There are also 2 screws holding the lint filter shoot which were also removed to allow the top to be lifted up. Its not necessary to remove the top since this would require disconnecting the wiring harness etc.

Next I removed the 2 screws located on the top-inside surface, which connect the front panel to the unit. After these were removed, the front panel lifts up and off--there are two clips which slid free on the bottom of the unit. The shut off switch on the door has to be disconnected to remove the panel.

With the front panel removed, the drum can be removed. I vacuumed out the interior and retrieved the idle pulley which had popped loose when the belt broke.

I removed the old rear drum seal and cleaned the edge with some brake cleaner solvent and steel wool. I then wiped the edge with paper towel and more brake cleaner to remove any oily residues. Before applying the glue, I test fit the seal which turned out to be a bit tight, so I stretched it a bit around the drum until it would fit on easily.

I used a disposible glue brush to spread a thin layer of the contact cement along the edge of the drum. By the time I finished one round, the glue was dry where I had started and so I did a second thin coat.

I then oriented the seal as per the directions and began fitting onto the edge trying to keep the free felt surface from getting into the glue. By the time I had reach the opposite side, the belt was pretty tight and so I had to stretch it a bit to get it to go on. I then worked my way around the edge a final time insuring that the seal was positioned correctly all the way around and the glue was pressed tight. I let the glue set for several hours before reassembling.

After the glue was dry, I put the drum back into the unit and worked the seal up onto the circular back panel until the groove on the drum was correctly positioned on the rear rollers. I propped the front edge of the drum on two 2 in rolls of duck tape so that I could rotate the drum freely several times. I checked the outside and inside to be sure that the seal was not turned under any place.

Finally, I slipped the new belt over the drum and past my 2 rolls of tape and positioned it groove side in over the drum. I then reinserted the tensioning pulling back into the slot just in front of the motor. The pulley goes just to the left of the motor pulley, the end of the tap on the base inserts in a slot and then 2 pins rest in a second slot to the right of the first. A loop of the belt then passes through underneath the pulley and then over the motor pulley. This requires pulling the tensioning pulling pulley towards the motor to get enough slack. I then rotated the drum several times and made sure that the belt was not twisted and the groove side was towards the drum.

To help hold the drum up while I was fitting the front panel. I supported the drum with a piece of 2 in tape run from the top/front edge of the drum to the back panel of the unit. I removed my two rolls of tape from under the unit, slipped the front panel back onto the two bottom clips, and then worked the front open of the drum over the front seal by opening the door and pushing from the inside and rotating the drum. I replugged the door switch and made sure the wire clips were secure.

I then replaced the 2 screws to hold the front panel. I put the top back down and resecured the screws on the back before reattaching the hose and replugging the unit. I test ran the unit for several minutes empty, listening for weird noises that would indicate something didn't go together correctly.

The dryer suddenly started running cold - it would turn, the timer worked...but no heat. My wife mentioned that it had been taking longer and longer to dry a load of clothes....

  • Customer: Geoff from Farmington CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Popped the lower cover off the dryer, found the thermal fuse and thermostat mounted on the heating tube. Removed the screws with a nutdriver, swapped wires to the new parts, and reinstalled. Then I spent 30 minutes vacuuming 13 years worth of lint and crud out of the machine - it was pretty gummed up in spots, which is probably the cause of the failure.
I have a 25 foot run of hose from the dryer outside, so I replaced that with 4" metal ducting. Clothes dry much faster now!!! Maybe my electric bill will go down (fat chance :) )

Dryer wouldn't run

  • Customer: Edward from Richlands NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Extremely easy repair! Unplug the dryer. Remove the lint trap screen. Take the two screws out of the lint trap chute, pry up the top of the dryer, insert wood or have someone hold top up, remove two screws holding the switch in place while holding the switch so the old spring doesn't fall. Remove old spring and replace with new one. Re-attach switch to dryer with two screws. Plug in and test run. Lower top and push firmly to engages clips. Re-install two scres in lint trap chute followed by the lint trap screen and you are finished!

Repair took about five minutes and saved approximately $70!

Dryer was taking twice as long to dry as it used to.

  • Customer: Glenn from East Brunswick NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Took of the back cover, and removed the vent connecting the blower motor to the drum. It was completly full of lint, so cleaned it out completly, and tried the dryer again. The heater element was still cutting off early, and the clothes were not getting very warm, but better than before. Decided to change the thermal cut-off switches. Ordered the parts on Sun, they came in on Tuesday. Dryer was up and running Tuesday night. Just 2 screws per switch, took less than 1/2 hour. The dryer now runs like brand new, and my wife was ready to fork over $800 for a new one!

One day, I found my dryer continued running after I opened the door. And next day, it stopped working at all. I thought it was time to buy a new one, since my dryer had been used for more than 15 years. But I was curious to know what went wrong, and recalled my friend told me he repaired the door

  • Customer: Xiaobin from Cordova TN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
My daughter found the video on youtube, which showed step by step repairing procedures. I just followed it and fixed my dryer in 15 min.

Humming noise then quit after pushing start. Drum would not turn manually.

  • Customer: Derek from Missouri City TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Looking at the schematics, it wasn't clear exactly where the motor was located. I took off the rear panel thinking I could get to the motor through the blower. Realizing that was a no-go, I did some web searching and found that the lint screen chute had to be unscrewed, the top had to be lifted to gain access to the top 2 screws holding the front panel to to the main body. The barrel was then dropped and the rib belt removed from around it so I could set it aside. The clips were removed from the front and the back of the motor to gain access to the blower shaft. .The motor shaft is screwed into the blower shaft but it took me a while to figure out how to grab the blower shaft( made of hardened plastic?) with an adjustable wrench while torquing the end of the shaft with a (3/4"?) socket wrench. Access to the rear was rough, but getting the motor out an back in was easy. The spring tensioner for the belt was the next hurdle. With the s-curve facing outward and clipped to the base, the belt with the rib side wrapped around the barrel, the belt was slid between the roller and the tensioner bracket and wrapped around the motor drive rib side inward. I had to take the old motor to kind of prop up the barrel so I could at least see the tensioner and motor interface. I had to do a balance trick where I held the barrel up while centering it to the belt and the rear panel while ensuring the cloth seal was seated to the outside of the chamber. The front panel went on, and the front cloth seal was seated by spinning the barrel. The rest was just a matter of reversing the steps. Tons of lint/dust is probably what crashed this motor. Disassembling the front and the back allowed a thorough clean up - vacuuming and wipe down. Should go another 10 years/

dryer had no heat

  • Customer: gary from newcomerstown OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
My Whirlpool dryer had no heat. I removed the back panel and within minutes diagnosed the problem to a blown thermal cut-off fuse. I ordered a thermal cut-off kit on a Sunday night and had the parts at 7:30am Wednesday morning. Total time for diagnosing and repair was no more than 15 minutes. PartSelect saved me a ton of money and aggravation!!! AWESOME!!!!

Gary

Washer stopped working mid cycle restarts after resetting lid

  • Customer: Eric from West Chester PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Repair went well, but my switch only had one contact on the non common end. The new switch had two contacts. One is for operation with lid open and one for lid closed. Make sure to connect to the lid closed contact and the common on the other end and leave the lid open contact unused.

Start windings burnt out on original motor (dryer would not start)

  • Customer: Frank from Smyrna TN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
The repair was fairly straight-forward. I removed the front of the dryer, lifted the top off, and then released the tension off the belt dy depressing the pulley arm. Once the belt was off, the drum came right out and then it was on to unhooking the wiring from the old motor. Very simple up till this point. The snag came when I went to unthread the impeller fan off of the old motor shaft. It was permanently sealed onto the shaft so I had to cut the old shaft into using a reciprocating saw was a metal-cutting blade. Once this was done the new motor installed easily exactly like the old one was mounted. I had to also purchase a new fan due to the fact that I was unable to remove the cut shaft from the old fan. All parts worked great and the dryer assembled back together easily. Works like a new dryer now.

drum wouldn't turn

  • Customer: Lisa from Woodstock GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Actually, I was the handy man. First I removed the front panel. Then I used 3 - 2x4s to hold up the drum. Then I slipped the belt around the center of the drum ,motor,and around the pulley at the bottom of the dryer. That was it, and then I put it back together. My wife was amazed and proud that I did it without calling for help! No Problem!

Dryer would not generate heat

  • Customer: Douglas from Greensburg PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
My dad was ready to spend $2000 on a new washer/dryer (he has to have a matching set!). Anyway, his dryer would not generate heat. A google search turned up partselect.com, which walked me through the procedure to see what we needed.

It turned out to be a simple to replace $25.00 part! The dryer is drying as if it was brand new. Saved $1,975. Hehe.

Thanks, partselect!

broken clip on top panel hold down

  • Customer: Mark from Huntington Station NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
pressed clip into hole on top of front panel. first remove two philip screws that hold filter so you can lift top up.

Shattered Blower Wheel

  • Customer: Ted from Russellville AR
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench set
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I followed this very helpful video. But when installing the dryer drum, I used a pillow underneath to keep it in place. http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Blower-Wheel/694089/686172#repairHelpVideoTabs

Broken drive belt

  • Customer: Stanley from Flushing NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I received the part I ordered immediately and the included instructions made installation a snap. Thank you for your help. I would not hesitate to order from your company again.
All Instructions for the KEYE660WWH1
61-75 of 1,138