KESS907SSS00 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Safety first always shut breaker off at box.
I unplugged stove, disconnected wires keeping in mind the color placement. Unscrewed one ground screw and removed terminal block. Attached new block with ground screw, replaced wires in correct order, re-attached plug. Then reattached safety cover. Pretty simple for d.i.y.

I discoverd my switch box locked with my stove electrical port and stove stopped functioning. Pulled my stove back and saw that the "terminal block" was melted on one side; hence, switch box locked in place to avoid a fire, thank goodness. Looked up part on internet, unplugged stove, took off terminal box, ordered part and replaced. BTW - PART SELECT is awesome; I received my part the very next day!!! :-) Very happy with their service.

No repair - just open the box and put the rack in my oven - voila - repaired!!! BUT let me tell you PartSelect sent the right part at the best price and I received it even ealier than I expected!!! I can DEFINITELY recommend these people and I do that very sparingly!!!! THANX!

I cut the ends of the cord and went with direct wire (no round eye clip) to the back side of the terminal block and tightened firmly. It took about 20 Minutes.

I found the correct sized light bulb to fit the top portion of my double oven. It fit perfectly and just in time for Thanksgiving.
Thank you Part Select. It was easy to find the right size on your site and my order came in just a few days.

I followed instructions from the videos provided on the Part Select site. As with many such appliances, parts are interchangeable between brands. this unit is a KitchenAid but Whirpool,Kenmore parts interchange...Access from the front is all that's needed however and the only tool required was a phllips head screw driver...the only negative surprise (which the video warned about but I ignored) was the risk of the element leads drawing back through the holes, which 2 did. Save yourself that trouble by securing the wires to the back oven wall with a small strip of duct tape until you're ready to re-attach them to the new element. This necessitated removing the oven entirely for access to the back; the most time consuming aspect being removing/replacing what seemed like 20 odd screws holding the back cover in place! If not for that mistake, entire job would have been under 30 minutes. Well worth the effort and would do it again!

Easy repair with Phillips screw driver and needle nose pliers. 1. Turn off Breakers or unplug range, Open oven door and remove the two screws holding the glass top to the oven frame. 2. Slide glass top forward and remove the two electrical connectors at the rear of the glass top, one on each side. 3. Remove the Phillips screw holding the ground wire from the rear top flange of the glass top. 4. Glass top can now be removed and placed glass side down on a padded flat table top. 5. Take a few pictures of the wiring and brackets for reassembly reference. 6. Remove the 4 wires from the defective heating element with needle nose pliers (note locations for reassembly to the new element) 7. Remove the Phillips screw on the rear side of the bracket holding the defective element. Carefully lift off the bracket. 8. Heating element can now be removed. 9. Remove the locating flanges from the defective element and install on the new element in the same locations. Clean glass if necessary and place new element on glass. 10. Carefully locate the flange tangs into the same holes on the bracket, reference photos or other side for locations. Ensure small element bracket was replaced in mounting slot of large bracket and reattach bracket screw. 11. Replace wires to same locations, remove and lightly pinch connectors if they appear loose, then reassemble. 12. Replace glass top on range, reconnect the two electrical connectors and ground wire, slide forward and replace the two mounting screws. 13. Restore power and check new element for function. Extension wires which came with the new element were not needed in this application. Total repair time about 20 min.

turn off breaker to stove. open oven door and locate two screws that are above the door that hold down the bottom of the front panel. the screws were not common headed but I had some odd ball screw driver heads that fit. the front panel had to be pulled out a little then lifted vertically to unhook it from the lip on the top of the stove. after removing the knob there are two screws hidden under it that hold the control module too the panel. the light on the front panel can be sli to the side to release it from the panel so that you have more slack to unplug and change the wires from the old control module to the new. screw retaining screws back through front panel to new control module. slide light back onto lens in control panel. hang control panel back on stove and secure with the two screws above the front stove door. press new knob on. turn breakers back on

Very simple. I removed two screws holding the oven in place. Slid oven out onto the kitchen floor - it doesn't really weigh that much. I then removed about a dozen screws holding the back panel in place. I removed the back panel, disconnected the thermostat by unscrewing a single screw and pulled the defective part from the connectors. I then installed the new thermostat, screwed the back panel back on, slid the oven back into place and re-secured with the two screws. Voila! Repair done. The whole procedure took about 15 minutes and was not difficult at all.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Getting at the part was difficult. The top and both side panels had to be removed to reach the blower. Once they were off, it was fairly easy to swap out the blower. The repair guy wanted $140 for the part and $160 to insall. I did it myself for $94! If you do it yourself, keep a good record of what screws came from where as you go. This makes re-assembly much easier.

Open oven dooor. With a philip screw driver remove the gasket plate at the bottom of the oven holding the seal gasket. pull seal gasket away from oven seal channel and clean surface before installing new seal. align seal pins to to seal channel holes be sure not to twist the seal insert pins in one at a time.Install lower bracket however you may want to wet the fray ends of the seal gasket prior to screwing in plate to keep the ends from moving away from the bracket when scrwing it in place.

Our double-oven is wall-mounted, so accessing the backside to change the wires (as shown in the instruction video) was not a practical do-it-yourself option. After turning off the circuit breaker and disconnecting the broken broiler element, it is pretty easy to pull the four connection wires through the backside of the oven, which allowed us to disconnect the slide clips. We attached twist-ties to each clip/wire before disconnecting to keep the clips/wires from pulling back behind the oven wall when moving the new element into position. We found it necessary to crimp a few clips onto the new element to make secure connections, but the rest of the project went pretty much as shown in the video and the new element works great.

slide into place

Removed back of oven. Disconnected 2 connectors on each side of element. Removed screws that were too rusted to use screwdriver with vise grips. Removed old element, inserted new element through holes in rear of oven.Installed 1 screw on each side of element in rear and 2 screws in front where brackets support the front of the element.Put back panel back on. Push oven back in place, plug back in outlet.It works great and I didn't have to pay service man.