Models > KEHS01PMT0 > Instructions

KEHS01PMT0 KitchenAid Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for KEHS01PMT0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the KEHS01PMT0
76-90 of 568
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dryer wasnt heating up, though it would run

  • Customer: Chris from st louis MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the dryer's back panel and took a look. Had no idea what to do next, so I read up on it. Partselect was extremely helpful to me, the exploded views with the part numbers called out were particularly helpful. So I determined it was the thermal fuse. Unscrewed the screw holding in the fuse and disconnected the electrical supply. New fuse went in really easily. Job took a lot longer than it had to cause since I was in there, I cleaned out the dryer really good.

Why the fuse blew was interesting: had an extension cord routed over the dryer, well it was situated such that it caused the timer knob to bind up. Apparently, the dryer ran all night because of this and blew the fuse. So don't obstruct the knob or you will be replacing a thermal fuse!

Dryer would not start, light worked door swicth worked

  • Customer: Doug from Toledo OR
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the top back plate and found the electrical schematic, found the fuse and themostat. Went to Whilpool web site found exploded parts list to identify part (fuse)

removed fuse and tested with MM for an open. It was. Shorted the leads to verify that the Dryer operated. Found your site and was easily able to identify the part from the excellent description and pictures. Ordered it, installed it work great thanks

Bent slide on pedestal

  • Customer: Donald from Greenfield WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Note that the problem was with the pedestal, not the washing machine. In the process of attaching the two units together, the drawer in the pedestal is removed. When I tipped the assembly up, the slide slid out and locked horns with an object, bending the slide. The slide is an easy replacement. Just one screw holds it in place. A slot in the slide mates with a tab to hold the back side of the slide in place.

Old lint filter was broken

  • Customer: Earl from Santa Ana CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Just replaced the old lint filter.

TOb stopped turning after a week or so of high pitched "squeals" coming from inside the dryer.

  • Customer: Robert from Princeton WV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I recommend you order the idler pulley as soon as you start to hear the unusual noise indicating metal against metal. Replace the idler pulley before it fails and possibly causes more damage to the drive system. Simply removed the power cord at the back of the dryer and then the multiple screws holding the back panel in place as well as the clip holding the exhaust vent in place. You may need to remove the top panel to access a few of these screws. A diagram of the belt routing is in the paperwork I found behind the front lower panel of the dryer. This too is easily removed with just a few screws.

plastic female latch part had broken...door would not stay shut

  • Customer: JOHN from HENDERSONVILLE NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
It was so easy... Pop out the old with flatblade screw driver and insert new piece... Works perfectly and looks better than the velcro strip I was using to hold the door shut...! Thanks for fast delivery and having the part available...

Regards,
JBL

Dryer would not start

  • Customer: Robert from North Attleboro MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Checked on your website for common problems w/this model dryer,highest probability was the thermal fuse being blown,so I ordered one & checked the vent for being plugged,no problem there,removed the back of the dryer replaced the fuse(very easy to do)put everything back together & started it up...all set now.Thanks for your help

Rear dryer drum seal came out

  • Customer: William from Pontiac MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 7 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Used my Whirlpool Dryer User Instructions Manual and followed instructions and used the Cabinet Parts page to see the diagrams.

Dryer would not start / failed to run.

  • Customer: Timothy from Anderson IN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
My dryer would not start or turn. I first moved the timer to midway between start and end of a cycle and could hear the timer ticking, likely eliminating the timer as the culprit. I next opened the door, manually pressed the door-closure switch and pressed START to see if the heating coil was heating without the drum turning to see if it might be a motor issue. After no heat, I unplugged the dryer and removed the vent hose by loosening the clamp and then removed the lower back cover using a socket and ratchet. Using a multimeter, I quickly found an open thermal fuse. I tested the remaining components to see if they also required replacement (coil, thermostat, high temp sensor) - all tested good. Took a chance and ordered the fuse alone instead of also purchasing replacement thermostat as many advise - if you have not replaced in a while, probably worth doing now. I have replaced mine within a year or two and chalked up the issue to my kids not clearing the vent, so I went without the new thermostat. Model number was found by opening the lid - parts arrived incredibly fast especially for being around the holidays. Replaced the fuse with ease - there is a notch in one end that holds the non-screw end in place so it's flush. Plugged the dryer back in, selected a cycle and confirmed the dryer started and heated as normal. I then had my son open the dryer door to confirm the drum stopped turning. HERE'S WHERE IT TAKES A TWIST: When the door was open, the heating coil continued to glow red hot (faulty timer??) I moved selector to end of cycle and the glow stopped. (timer's good) I then moved the selector mid-way between cycles with the dryer door open and WITHOUT PRESSING START and the coil again glowed red. Disconnected power, disconnected coil and using multimeter, checked from coil input to case ground (any bare metal) and found one side of the coil to be grounded. I was able to removed the heating coil and locate where the coil was touching the case. I shifted the coil back into place, checked with meter (no ground this time), reinstalled and tested with no problems. Reinstalled the back plate and vent hose. Finally, had conversation with the kiddos about being gentle when moving the dryer and all was well. The thermal fuse portion took 15 minutes from diagnosis to replacement. The overall process (due to the additional grounded heating coil) took 30-60. With any repair like this, I usually recommend visually verifying the heat cycles on and off by carefully running with the door open and holding the switch. This will help you determine if you may have an additional faulty part that made the first one fail. (Most likely, thermostat).

Dryer would not blow hot air

  • Customer: Betty from Licking MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
I guess you could say I went through the process of elemanation, first I replased the thermostat,removed 2 screws pulled off 3 wired with a pair of pliers put them on the new one, still no hot air so I replaced the fuse, took out 1 screw removed 2 wires and placed them on the new fuse, still no hot air, finally I replaced the thermal cut-off switch and WOW that was it hot air was blowing again, the process was very easy I ordered everything from parts slect and they were here the next day, only had to take the back off the dryer with a nut wrench, locate the thernastat, fuse and thermal cut-off which was just above the heating coil I removed 1 screw pulled off 2 wires and place them on the new one. very easy and the repair storys really helped locating the problem

The problem was the dryer wouldn't heat up (gas). Would run but just not heat up.

  • Customer: Charles from Cherry Hill NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
So I opened the back up, and looked down the flame shoot and I could see that the igniter was never glowing red. (You can actually see the red glow of the igniter when its working right, then you here the solonoid click and flame. But again all this when its working correctly.) So anyway, no heat no glowing red.

I took the voltmeter out, grounded 1 lead and just followed the voltage (using the schematic provided), through the switches, yada yada trying to trace how far it got.

Voltage got to 1 side of thermal fuse, but not to other side. Bingo. Disconnected fuse and did continuity check - open. All of this took diagnosing took 1/2 hour to hour. Not really counting toward fix. Ordered the part at parts select. Put a jumper over the fuse so that clothes could still be dried (probably not recommended but it works). Part arrived in 2 days. Didn't even put the back panel on.

The part is right on the back. 1 screw, 2 space terminals. Takes all of 3 minutes to replace. Then another 5 minutes to put the back panel on and vent hose back on. Most of that is because you are working in a cramped space. (I don't have the biggest laundry room.)

Can't beat parts select!

Parts select + a little know how, saved me about $400.

dryer would turn but won't heat up

  • Customer: rolando from round lake beach IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
removed cover then pulled wires with a plier, unscrewed the fuse and installed new fuse then put back cover plugged in power cord, fired dyer and run dryer for 2 minutes and felt warm air coming out of the exhaust.

My Kenmore dryer door catch was worn out, so the dryer door wouldn't stay closed, and I was unable to dry my laundry.

  • Customer: Carol from Golden Valley MN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
I identified the correct catch of the three that were included in the package by matching its number to that on the old catch that I had pried out of the door using a flat screwdriver. I centered the new catch over the square hole in the door and pressed it into place. Then I used some needle-nose pliers to twist and remove the metal pin that fits into the catch from the main dryer housing. I replaced that with the new piece included in the kit, gently tapping it into place with a hammer. The repair complete, the door worked perfectly. Thanks for your help and for the speedy delivery of the kit.

Dryer wouldn't turn on.

  • Customer: Kevan from Ocean Springs MS
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
First I pulled the dryer away from the wall, after which I disconnected the power and dryer vent. I then removed the eight screws holding on the back of the dryer. Next, I disconnected the two wires to the part and unscrewed the mounting screw. I then removed the bad part, replaced it with the new part, and reversed the above steps.

Dryer would not operate

  • Customer: Wayne from Winthrop NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Performed current check to determine possible problem-then Able to go on line with partselect, extremely easy part description and selection, ordered, part arrived next day. Could not have went any better
All Instructions for the KEHS01PMT0
76-90 of 568